Friday, September 4, 2009

Sunrise

My original plan, after I got off work at 6am was to retire with a couple of blankets to one of the interview rooms at the police station and take a nap for a couple of hours. There are no holding cells for prisoners at the police station, but sometimes prisoners are interviewed in these small rooms with no windows that are perfect for taking a nap in, unless detectives are actually speaking with some one in there. Instead six o'clock came round and I was wide awake. So I rode to Stock Island for breakfast. After eggs, grits, bacon and Cuban toast washed down by café con leche I was ready to go out and photograph the dawn.I stopped in the turning lane in the median for the photograph above, aiming east at the start of the morning commute into Key West on highway one. After I turned onto College Road I stopped again for a picture of Key Haven across the water.
"Hey Michael!" a scooter rider called out as he rode by on College Road. I have no idea who it was but I'm glad I wasn't doing anything even remotely reprehensible at that early hour. In Key West the community is too small to get away with anything at all that you don't want people knowing about. Good morning to you, whoever you were on the silver scooter.There was a fair bit of traffic on College Road and the sun was determined to keep coming up. The drag of it is, I'm not usually awake and busy at this hour, so the one day I was alert to the presence of the dawn i wanted it to last. Fat chance, daylight was polluting everything.But fiddle with the camera settings and you can find rich colors in the sky if you work at it:Back on the bike I took a left at the Triangle and headed south for a beachside sunrise picture.The problem is everyone goes to South Roosevelt to watch the sunrise:And you can see why when you look east, in this case across Cow Key Channel toward Stock Island. The white fireball is the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse coming to eat my Triumph.Enough of this sentimental nonsense, sun rising over water. Five minutes down Flagler Avenue got me to the Key West High School. Somehow, in my effort to de-sentimentalize sunrise I have managed to make the school look like a Soviet Tractor Factory. It wasn't my intention, I quite like the school actually and I especially like that the school is an open campus. Key West is very small town and civilized.
I stopped on Bertha Street momentarily on way to my destination downtown, but nothing quite struck me. I wanted photograph the old men sitting around sipping buchi's (Cuban espresso) at the Corner Grocery Store, but the problem with old men in retirement is that they are sitting and looking at every little thing that goes by. A bloody great green Bonneville, even one with standard factory mufflers just draws too much attention and so I chose not to point the unblinking eye at them. I spotted these two pals out jogging and happily the light was still vague enough to give them a National Geographic blurry effect:
While the humans were acting busy on Atlantic the palm trees and buildings were just standing there in the rose-tinted dawn. The elevator shaft for the 1500 Atlantic Building looked like a church tower to me. I must just have been a little tired.Higgs Beach attracted a share of sunrise worshipers. She looked like she was into sun worship until I realized she had a phone in her hand. And he, striding by with purpose, reminded me of Robert Duval smelling napalm in the morning in Apocalypse Now. Definitely not sentimental. My sentimental dawn journey downtown led me past the bums and the beach and this concierge hut ready to rent out water sports stuff next to Salute restaurant.
There's lots of stuff young Conchs don't get to see growing up and agriculture is one of them. The Sheriff operates the animal farm at the jail, a refuge for abandoned or mistreated wild or domestic animals like pigs horses and goats. But to see a tractor in Key West go no further than the beach where this agricultural implement isn't baling hay but cleaning sand:This one appeared to belong to Casa Marina Resort:
The Casa itself, Flagler's original destination hotel in Key West for his new 1912 railroad, looked imposing in the dawn's early light; like a barracks:
The Spottswood Pocket Park at the end of Seminole Street attracted a jogger, who with camera in hand took no pictures but committed everything to memory by way of thorough inspection and spent some time inspecting the information plaque about the Key West Marine Park, which runs along the island's southern shore.
The easterly breeze was blowing as indicated by the flag on the pier. The boat was in calmer waters closer to shore.
I tried to catch the foamy effect of the modest little waves on the rocks in the gray light but got poor results:
The Reach glowing all splendid with the dawn illuminating the clouds for a backdrop on this lovely summer morning.
And from here to the Randy Acevedo trial at the courthouse, my destination for the morning ride.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Square Grouper

I like Square Grouper and you can take that as a recommendation if you want though there are no guarantees you will like what I like. Certainly if you drive to Key West and pass through Cudjoe (pro: Kud-joe in American English) you probably won't spare a second glance at the barn like building on the south side of the Overseas Highway: There's a beauty spa of some sort upstairs but downstairs there is a transformation awaiting anyone ready to risk lunch or dinner is such an unpromising building:
Yes, the pyramid in the back of the dining room is a wine rack:
And if you wander all the way back past the second dining area you come to the dessert room. In the Lower Keys there is no better place to order chocolate fondue and sit around on cubical poofs and dip your fruit in melted chocolate:Fish is the theme here. In American English grouper is pronounced group-er. In British English for reasons I can't hope to understand they call these fish: grope-er. Which sound weird to me. But a trophy is a trophy to an angler and the walls are lined with them:
As is often the case lunch is a better deal than dinner and this place is packed every day it's open. We came late to lunch on the weekend and enjoyed a quiet nook with a friend.
Though the front room was buzzing with people still:
Whoops, more trophies. Goliath groupers, formerly known as Jewfish are no longer allowed to be caught. They changed the name because they thought Jews would be offended, however as far as I know no Jew spoke up on the subject so mostly people still call them Jewfish, including my wife, the preeminent expert on Judaism in my family, what with her being one (a Jew I mean, not a fish).I hoped someone would order panko encrusted yellowtail but Kathy and I both ordered the bistro steak while my wife got a plate of tuna, a dish she loves but finds it difficult to have it prepared as she likes it. Square Grouper is apparently reliable in the raw tuna (ugh!) department. I nearly surrendered to the blandishments of the blueberry banana bread pudding in rum sauce but heroically held off. You don't have to have a table full of people to enjoy Square Grouper either, they have a very welcoming bar. That flash of white is high speed bar service in action:
Wine by the glass at seven dollars a pop:
And time to lounge and talk and wonder at how lucky one is to live around the corner from this place:
And here's my wife's raw fish.
And my well cooked steak:
One has to explain the name of the place I suppose, and there was a clear illustration in the men's loo. That serious minded coast guardsman is presiding over a catch of square grouper somewhere in the Caribbean:In the 1970s the Keys were major entryway for marijuana and later cocaine into the Keys. Bales of marijuana such as those seen in the picture above were known jocularly as "square grouper" as they were frequently dumped at sea and could be found bobbing around in the water as smugglers evaded law enforcement and tossed the evidence over the side.
Smuggling has always been a component of life in the Keys, I read Charlotte's Story (reviewed March 20th, 2008 in this blog) about pioneering life in the Keys, and discovered much to my astonishment that they too encountered smugglers and the Border Patrol playing high jinks on the high seas much as today. I have always found talk of piracy in the Keys to be rather unlikely, yet smuggling is rooted here in reality and gets no place in the popular imagination. Aside from the posters in the loo there is a tongue twister above the bar. And a splendid bar it is too.
we closed the place after lunch and stepped back out into a drizzly hot summer afternoon in the Lower Keys.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Vignettes XXV

It's not only Key West that claims sunsets for it's own. The town of Rincon ("Corner") in western Puerto Rico claims it is the land of beautiful sunsets. And they sell bumper stickers on the strength of it: When last we went to Puerto Rico we took a quick rental car trip to the western end and walked out to the lighthouse. The town of Rincon left us rather cold, but I shall have to go back now and see if it bathes me in happiness when I take Puerto Rico Highway 413. I'd like to ship the Bonneville down and then take the ferry to the Dominican Republic but I think the wife would frown at the expense. That would be true happiness, riding the mountains of the Caribbean.
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There has been an outbreak of wrecks in and around Key west lately. I had photos of one motorcycle down with a seriously injured youth. Then a local businessman rode his Harley into the path of an oncoming car and managed to get himself airlifted to Miami for treatment. When I left home last week I found a back-up toward Big Pine Key, not in my direction happily, for another wreck. Then,on my way home from the movies I nearly spotted another wreck one fine afternoon. I was ambling along when a PT Cruiser came zooming up behind me, so I pulled over and let him by, so he could tail gate the car in front. That car needed to stop for a red light at Sugarloaf Key and the PT Cruiser disappeared into a cloud of burnt rubber. Literally. I couldn't get the camera out of my pocket fast enough, but the PT Cruiser nose dived like a stubborn burro and the rear wheels lifted off the road skittering from side to side as the driver, his underpants undoubtedly soiled by now, struggled to stop his car. I was laughing like a drain, the driver of the red car shrugged his shoulders helplessly and the tailgater in the PT Cruiser dug out from under a pile of displaced picnic gear.No harm done but he left a lovely streak of rubber in the road for a souvenir.
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So how much do you feel you have to "give up" to take to the road on two wheels?One full sized parking space at least. Photographed from the third floor of the Freeman Justice Building.
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That same morning when I went to see what was going on in a very busy court room, I saw this guy sitting out enjoying the morning air.

I only noticed the "Morgan for Mayor" sign in the background after I took the picture. This year incumbent McPherson who has won two, two-year terms consecutively is facing a major challenge from fellow Conch Craig Cates. The battle of the bubbas has some people wondering why two good old boys are duking it out. I have an idea but that would be worth more than my job to discuss here. Meet me at Sandy's if you want my take. You're buying my con leche.
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On the subject of Sandy's I was riding through town unnaturally early and I spotted this dude picking up a coffee on his way to work. Scott is a madman, and here's why. This summer,with no motorcycle experience he bought a Kawasaki KLR 650, loaded it with gear and rode across country and had a fabulous time.He didn't ponder it or over think it, he just lived the dream with no muss and no fuss. I admire that,

Now he is riding his KLR to work at Key West High School where he teaches. He said my Bonneville was more comfortable when he sat on it- his KLR was so tall I squashed vital organs trying to reach the ground with my toes. I had been planning to go on a ride with him to the Everglades when I fell off the Bonneville June 1st. I hope he will re-schedule when it is cooler. On the subject of cooler I quite liked this latest version of Harley Sportster, except for the side mounted tag (saddle bag impediment) and the single, very u-shaped saddle: I can't help but remind myself how maintenance free these motorcycles are- self adjusting hydraulic valves, belt drive and a dealer on every corner, except in Key West.

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I came across this for sale sign at the Casa Resort on Seminole Street. They are apparently selling off these historic old buildings.

I thought a picture might be a good idea to remind us of another loss when some warm hearted builder throws up another lot of cookie cutter executive condos. Oh well.

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I always enjoy snapping pictures of people using their scooters. Just using them, with no great fanfare. This guy was buzzing merrily along South Roosevelt with a large duffel bag between his awkwardly placed legs and a stuffed backpack on his back.

I know, he could have more rubber on the rear tire, boots on his feet and all that stuff. But he is out riding and doing what needs to get done.
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Also at Sandy's I snapped a picture of the dudes doing what needs to get done. There's meat on the menu at the café on White Street at Virginia, but I like their breaded fish sandwich.Lots of mayo and a large with one sugar. Bu-u-u-rp. That will put me to sleep on night shift, digesting the fish while the coffee fights to keep me awake on these long slow nights of September when no one is in town.
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I wrote recently of the flood of tourists still visiting Key West. Well, I would have done better to keep my trap shut. In a few months this scooter parking space, on Eaton at Duval, will be filled with rentals and an occasional Bonneville but right now you can see for yourself:
Lately I've been parking further up Eaton as there is a scooter spot with a large shady tree over it. I went to see Public Enemies at the Tropic, a true to life depiction of John Dillinger and a little slow in the middle of the two-and-a-half-hour flicker, and I was glad to find the Bonneville in the shade. Hot vinyl burns through thin pants. On the subject i found a large cruiser by Yamaha, which they call a V-Star of some immense proportion parked in the shade on Appelrouth Lane.

I don't quite get the cruiser thing, the low saddle and the feet flung forward and the immense bulk, compared to a svelte standard motorcycle, even one encumbered with luggage. I like sitting upright as having my feet underneath me puts me in better control of the machine, I think :

The angle of the photographs doesn't help but trust me, the V Star was huge.
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So can you guess what this is?
It is a lower unit off my 25 horsepower Yamaha outboard. There has been a rash of lower unit thefts across the Keys, about 60 of them at last count. People apparently drive up to empty houses and unbolt the lower unit which has no serial numbers or identifiers and haul the unit off in their trucks. An Upper Keys neighbor spotted one of them and set off on a foot chase after the thief. That one got away butleft behind the truck. Sheriff's investigators have told the paper they think it is a ring out of Miami so I was hoping that as Robert and I started in on my unit we wouldn't be turned in for stealing my own lower unit... Happily mine is rather smaller than most of the units getting snatched and we were no experts in removing it. The National Guard would have had time to get on stand by by the time we separated the two halves of the outboard. I normally keep my boat at my dock during the summer swimming season, but with Robert's help we hauled it out at the community launch ramp and replaced the impeller which was three years old and rather tired.
My wife's shoulder is healing nicely from surgery but she still can't climb in and out of the boat so I decided we might as well haul the boat out and Robert nudged me into doing the necessary maintenance. That must be what friends are for. "You don't want to spend $80 an hour to pay a stranger to do it..." he said. "I don't?" I thought. He was right.
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When I took a stroll down Knowles Lane I saw this old Suzuki Tracker mouldering away. Picturesque I thought, but it could have been anywhere, so I saved the pictures for another day.
That would be today:

The interior of the vehicle looked more like a garden shed than a machine that had once relied on internal combustion for it's raison d'etre.When I was a kid we used to sit in these kinds of junque-mobiles and make raspberry noises while we spun the steering wheel. I am not allowed to do that any more under penalty of being committed to an institution so I take pictures instead.I don't think this machine will be rolling again soon. I rather wonder how it manages to just get left on the street in a town which is crying out for parking spaces. It must know someone important.
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I have no idea if these bald old coots own the orange v-twin on the sidewalk, or if they even ride motorcycles. I was stopped at the traffic light on Whitehead Street and liked the picture of the Green Parrot bar scene. I liked it enough to take a second Green Parrot Bar picture of another, more standard v-twin cruiser.I don't know how they do it, go out drinking and then ride safely home.
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Not all of them do of course. I have no idea why this vehicle was stopped, probably for simple speeding which prompted the thought: There, but for the Grace of God, go I- and as I rolled by at a sedate speed gave thanks to the unknown driver for distracting the long arm of the law for me.
The new school year has started and we have all been told to look out for increased enforcement and the dreaded unmarked cars. I hope they catch lots of drunk drivers, my bete noire.