Friday, March 19, 2010

Key West Bonneville

In order that we might appreciate the fact my 2007 Bonneville (the basic model without a tachometer) actually gets ridden more often than people with motorcycles Up North (who are NOT Iron Butt Members) I thought a brief tour of Key West might be in order. This is my Bonneville at Garrison Bight Marina Wednesday afternoon. I had previously towed my skiff in for it's annual tune up before the wife and i spend a summer swimming. It's impossible to tell from here but my boat, like my motorcycle has minimal electronic equipment- no lights, depth sounders, radios, blenders, refrigeration, music system etc etc...Just how I like it. Contrary to rumors from Amish country I do not tow trailers with my motorcycle. I travel light.This is a Harley Davidson in it's natural habitat. Water cooled BMWs are often owned by people with powerful towing vehicles, just as a precaution.
Some people who own nondescript Universal Japanese Motorcycles make up for it with fiberglass muscle cars like this one parked in the meadows, my favorite neighborhood. Notice the Bonneville fully equipped for a commute or an Iron Butt ride at the drop of a hat. This Five Brothers Grocery on Southard, not that you'd know because we Triumph riders see the world from a different perspective and besides that my wife says million calorie Cuban sandwiches are off the menu for the time being which makes them all the more desirable.No tour of Key West would be complete without a picture of the cemetery, here at Grinnell and Angela. If there aren't any signs, it just isn't Key West. One would imagine a black fence would carry the "Stop" message fairly effectively but you'd be surprised what a rental scooter and few drinks can do to your judgment.This scootin new school, a Vespa LX 150, a more modern version of my wife's ET4. For some reason one mirror seems to do were two might be better. Parking it in a car spot is legal but rather misses the point of two wheeled ownership in Key West. Doubtless the owner will be Up North in a few short weeks. I still miss my mechanically unreliable GTS 250. I promised myself no pictures of anywhere famous. I include Half Shell because the Key West Bight is only well know to people who know Key West. I don't eat at Half Shell but many people like it a lot. Perhaps I will give it another shot this summer when the crowds have dissipated..Wednesday was St Patrick's Day, worse luck as I was working that night. Here James Street was clogged with faux Irish persons getting ready for their Breathalyzer test. Hallmark has a lot to answer for especially as I'm told Irish people in Ireland aren't particularly drawn to march 17th, unless some American tourists are standing by. In Key West people wear paper bowler hats in a peculiar shade of green and shamrock designs on their t-shirts. I was in uniform which is blue and brown.
I could have taken another picture of Schooner Wharf Bar, a sea of green. Instead I looked up and there was Wyland's ray on the side of the Waterfront Market:
Where else but Greene Street on St Patrick's day? Pardon Greene was one of four buyers of Key West from the original lessee from the King of Spain. He may have been Irish but he was burdened with a distinctive first name which may have been yoke enough for the poor man so the records don't indicate if he wore green in March. This is Old City Hall where the city commission meets on alternating Tuesday's and local vagrants gather nightly. The scooter parking has an awkward pothole running it's length which make it easy to drop your ride. But it is close to the bars on Duval.
Further up Greene Street at Duval the white orb in the sky is called The Sun for those who did not spend last winter in Alaska where the seasons have sped up so much they are back in Fall already after an early summer last February. Oops, my tag holder is showing there. This is Clinton Square, a monument to soldiers no longer with us and the Art and History Museum in the background, a wholly owned subsidiary of an heir to the Johnson and Johnson talcum powder fortune.Truman Annex, the gated community with strong gates to keep inmates safe from scruffy oiks on Triumphs. They don't work very well as long time readers of this endless blog might know.
This is the new Freeman Justice Center named for a local dignitary who filled all sorts of public spirited posts in a recent era when being elected to public office was an honor and an opportunity to help your neighbors. I heard some miserable expatriate a few minutes later expounding on the lack of character of anyone who chooses to run for public office. I wish I were alive when Freeman was Sheriff but instead I get to live through an era when demeaning our leaders leads to diminished leadership and voters are surprised.
I observed a certain shortage of palm trees so here's one. The white museum piece is the Ingham which I photographed at night a while back. This is Truman Waterfront, 33 acres given to the city by the Navy and now the object of much lust by developers. This week the Bahama Conch Community Land Trust essentially voted itself out of existence and plans to build an old folks home hereabouts have evaporated with it's tenuous and scandal riddled budget. Norma Jean Sawyer's legacy is not a place for old people to live out their days but one more public service scandal. What was I ranting about the public trust? Sigh.I lied. I said no famous places and here is my tachometer deprived Bonneville in front of the Hemingway House on Whitehead at Olivia Streets. In my defense a huge traffic jam was blocking Whitehead as dorks failed to negotiate the traffic light at Truman and I pulled out and popped into a space between parked cars. This was the moment when I realized in a blinding flash of light like Saul of Tarsus on the road to Damascus, that a sidecar is a duff idea. I am too wedded to the mobility of a motorcycle. Cut and thrust and dogs be damned. Sorry, Cheyenne.
I slipped out of the traffic jam and cut and parried my way to work, past crowds of drunk faux Irish persons and lost car drivers. I had time enough for a proper palm tree picture:At Higgs Beach, just outside the frame the inevitable bundle of rags sleeping it off next to his bicycle. Ah, Key West. And so to work.
With thanks to Orin, Bobskoot and Toad for shaking me out of my complacence. The Bonneville is back.
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For my measured political posturing du jour: http://conchscooterscommonsense.blogspot.com/

Thursday, March 18, 2010

The Pines

A new/old park has resurfaced in Key West, and it's at Faraldo Circle off South Roosevelt. It's been so long I had pretty much forgotten about it.It so happened that as I arrived Cool Hand Luke and crew were leaving after a few last bits of clean up. You will often seen these sad souls working alongside the highway, petty criminals doing their time at the Road Prison in Big Pine Key and spending their days keeping the state highway looking good.
No sooner is the park near the airport reopened than it gets new/old residents settling in:
These guys have nothing to do with the essay but I thought they looked cute in their second generation electric rental car a little nicer looking vehicle than the bulbous bubble car shaped Gem electric cars rented around town.The pines is a small wood next to the East Martello Tower the brick fort seen beyond the trees:They put in some nice rebuilt cement block and wood picnic tables to enjoy the water views: The Pines had been a staging area for the construction materials used to build the new departure terminal at Key west "International" Airport. The cement block in the background is the parking garage:And if chickens don't float your boat there are local residents wandering around:Non locals show up to look around the artwork on display at the East Martello Tower. They could have just read my essay on the subject:
On the other hand I applaud them for improving themselves and their knowledge of my hometown which deserves more respect than it gets on Lower Duval.
Mens sana in corpore sano, they used to tell me in school as they forced us out to exercise in the cold and the rain to keep a sound mind in a healthy body. Something like that. I'd rather be riding a bicycle along the seawall and stopping to inspect the crystal clear waters than chasing a ball around an English rugby field in winter.
It's less healthful but arguably more fun to ride a big bad motor sickle along the seawall. This is Key West so it has to be a big V twin.Back at The Pines Cheyenne had run out of things to sniff.
This is the place to bring a burrito from Badboy and keep an eye on those sparkling waters. Can't do this in February on the Jersey shore, can you? Not in your shirt sleeves at any rate.
And you can't see this in Vancouver either. Unless you're outside the US Consulate. We fly lots of flags in the US lest we forget who we are. This one also helps confirm their arrival plans for Cuban refugees landing from the land of free health care to the south.Loads of visitors flash by on South Roosevelt. I wonder if they even notice The Pines? It's another of those little pockets of serenity for which Key west, a small island, should be famous. But it's not, happily for me.
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Optional extra: http://conchscooterscommonsense.blogspot.com/ for my latest political essay.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Vignettes XXXIV

Want a winter home in the Fabulous Florida Keys? Here's your chance:It's a bit suburban for my taste, right alongside Highway One on Cudjoe Key, two rows of cookie cutter town homes behind a safe and secure locked gate.I can't imagine they will be anything like affordable but who knows, perhaps someone will get lucky. These buildings haven't been here very long but apparently someone's grasp exceeded their reach and now they change hands. If you are optimistic here's how you fund your new pad in the sun:Living full time in a vacation rental resort would get extra-old in hurry for me. Your choice, not mine.

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I took this sunrise from just around the corner from those homes. It's not like this every day but...
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I was riding my Bonneville when I took the sunrise pictures.
I include this picture as there is a thread of disbelief about my desire to ride and my daily use of my splendid motorcycle. So there.

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This is not a picture of my motorcycle. This is my laundry line under my house.

Our cheap off-brand clothes dryer died after eighteen months of valiant service and we decided to do without in the spirit of the New America where self denial is an expression of acceptance of the slow descent into serfdom. Besides, we live in a climate where a clothes dryer is really not that necessary.

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The Monroe County School District is finding some budget difficulties not previously reported. Funds have been moved around, not illegally but in a way that leaves egg on the faces of the District leaders. I was walking Cheyenne on Trumbo Road and I noticed this sign doesn't actually carry the name of the organization based here. Odd but true, check it out:I guess the big yellow buses are the hint that reveal what offices these might be. None of which explains how the missing and moved 2.9 million dollars will be replaced. More drama will follow doubtless. You'd be amazed how many people have filed to take the place of the odious Steve Pribamsky who represents Key West on the school Board. They are people who just like headaches I guess.

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Lovely Key West viewed from Trumbo Road. Before Big Gummint regulated the discharge of crap in the water for us, this place was called The Toxic Triangle. People lived here on their boats for free and it was gross.

It isn't toxic nowadays and young people can fill their lungs with clean, fresh air.
I am not a skateboarder but I am a motorcyclist so I do enjoy the sight of a hard working motorcycle like this tough little Honda Rebel.
Many years ago I met a boat captain who lived in Key West as the old Tank Island was being transformed from a disused navy storage area into a very expensive private resort. The captain told me about the work that went into preparing for the change as the resort hired captains and crew to operate the new ferry service to the exclusive island now renamed Sunset Key. The captain needed the work but he didn't much like the gentrification that was buying his soul. Like this young man painting the cargo ferry, an elderly tank landing craft, that services the island, the captain helped paint the passenger ferries in those good old days."We painted a new name on the back of the boat," he grinned as he told me the story of how Sunset Key came into being. "We painted Tank Island Whore for the new name. Unfortunately the resort owners came by the boatyard to see how the work was progressing." He paused to laugh out loud. "We thought it was funny. They didn't."
The boat captain moved north to make way for the brave new world coming to Key West. Maybe a few more years of economic disaster will bring him back, if he' still alive.
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An essay about Key West without one of these signs isn't a proper Key West essay, so here it is:
In the background you can the ferry terminal originally designed by an Argentine company called Buquebus which planned to run boats between Ft Myers and Key West. Predictably Buquebus went bust when Argentina did the same but the building remains and another company runs a ferry from Ft Myers Beach to here. So you'll see people like this humping luggage in the sun down Caroline Street toward the guest houses downtown:The notice behind these lost souls says the Welcome center behind them stores luggage. Handy, no?Somebody dropped a Snickers bar in the street making my dog very happy. Yes, I know chocolate is bad for dogs but I wasn't putting my hand in there thanks. Her mouth is gooey and sticky and she survived the chocolate encounter just fine. I am frequently amused by the sincerity of dog owners making all the right choices for their animals while indulging themselves with all the forbidden vices. Walking your dog reduces your risk of heart attacks but quitting smoking helps too. No chocolate for the dog they say piously as they bite into their double bacon cheeseburger. Ah, irony.I don't feed Cheyenne chocolate but I don't panic if she snuffles some out of the gutter. I do like the occasional burger myself. Now we're even. Oh, I'm really weird because I don't use a tach or a GPS when riding my bike even as i don't panic if my dog eats chocolate.
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More wildlife pictures, from James Street. I was half thinking I deserved a glass of Guinness at Finnegan's Wake up the street. Chocolate for the dog, extra stout for me. Instead I piously walked away and came upon these critters.Remembering our last encounter with a broody hen, when Cheyenne got attacked on Angela Street, I prudently decided to cross the street:
These hard core spring breakers ooh'ed and aah'ed as I knew they would:
Chickens as tourist attraction. I make no comment.

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I passed this old picture of Key West Bight in a property company's window on the street.
It doesn't look like this anymore, the harbor. As we saw earlier it still looks good in it's own way.
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Vignettes within a vignette essay. Woman reading a book on an upstairs porch in evening sun:

Chimney on a house, useful this winter, if it works.
Smart tourists, stuffing their faces, on high calorie delights. Sandy's Café on White Street.
Lucky them.