Friday, April 23, 2010

Eagle At 17th

A hot summer afternoon in April in New Town. I was much cheered by a call from a friend in Santa Cruz California a couple of days ago. The weather report? 45 degrees, rain, "it looks like winter." Cheyenne and I were huddling under the inadequate cover of a tree before venturing out under the sun on Eagle Avenue.The house is shut up, the car is for sale. Hmm, a possible replacement for my oil burning kennel.An occupied house, a car not for sale.New town used to be open fields and there was a dairy around here in the days before Key West spread past Division Street, now known as Truman Avenue. Division used to divide the inhabited part of the island from the open space. Open, no longer. For Conchs of the day New Town development represented an opportunity to sell their tumbledown homes for ridiculous sums and build proper American homes on decent sized lots in what used to be fields.Off sets are are a good deal wider than in Old Town.It's starting to get hot if you happen to wear a fur coat out in public. But not so hot that one loses all interest in the outside world.A delightful tree house in a very large ficus (baobab). (see comment below...)Classic ranchette style, car port, open landscape, lots of off street parking, no tourists. People who visit and inhabit only Duval Street have no idea how non touristy the rest of the island is.The real estate market in the Lower Keys is sending mixed signals. Realtors tell us the market is regaining strength -come on down!- but foreclosures seem to be increasing and as they come on the market prices are weak. An acquaintance was recently advised the real estate office where she works is cutting her pay by one third (!) and her share of recent sales commissions have not yet (!) been paid. Her response was to cut her own hours by two per day so she saves herself the cost of daycare. My wife was rather freaked out by that piece of news.Dropping house prices enable sales but they don't feed the machinery of the local economy like the recently inflated prices used to.
Around here a large swath of lawn is nothing to be amazed about in New Town. Space like this in Old Town makes the owner a millionaire, even today. I like wide streets, off street parking and large offsets. If I had to live in the city I'd be looking around here, far from the drunken crowds.Happily I'm not yet forced to give up my mortgage. I'm sure Wells Fargo is delighted, I fed their last quarter's absurd profits so it's more bonuses for everyone at the bank. Lucky them.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Dusky Bonneville

Most of the night Nelly and I were going to be running the room alone and even in a town as small as Key West you can't run a police/fire/rescue communications center with less than two people. It's hard enough some nights with just two dispatchers but we still can't find enough people to keep our communications center fully staffed so needs must. So in order to get a break at all I had to leave work before 9pm which meant the sun had just set, and the city, coming on to summer, looked lovely. Casa Marina.Earth Day comes at a poignant time for me, I was twelve when the first one happened and I doubt I will be around for the eightieth Earth Day in forty years from now. I am not planning to live much past my Biblical three score and ten, so when I learn that by 2050 the Southernmost Point may be underwater I hope that everyone else's children are ready to cope. I know I'm not.
I have no idea what my carbon footprint is but I suspect most Keys residents who drive improbably vast cars have less impact than do I with my 43mpg Bonneville that I ride incessantly. It has 37,500 miles on the clock since I bought it in October 2007, which mileage doesn't include driving or riding my wife's Vespa ET4.
When I was a youngster politics was the name of the game and changing the world was the game and until the need for material wealth overwhelmed all other considerations my generation made some important changes. And failed on a lot of counts which leaves one vulnerable to the same charge we leveled at the ones who went before, a lyric that went something like "... boy, you lot sure balled things up for us!" I find the old Navy warehouse on Truman Waterfront evocative. It should be gone soon, when the city commission stops wrangling over what to do with the 34 acres they were given by the military. A park, a gift to developers for a rich yacht marina, an old folks home, a water slide, you name it, they are at each other's throats over this. I like it as it is but entropy is bad I am told.
This ship was built in the Great Depression and is sitting out it's second Great Depression in retirement, soon to be a new floating museum. How lucky we are to have these night skies, and to be able to ride around under them helmetless, in shirt sleeves at nine o'clock at night in April.
I have no idea what climate change will bring to my life though no doubt it will be worse in the delta of the Brahmaputra in Bangladesh where brown people will drown as always, in their tens of thousands to general indifference during regular monsoon season. In the face of the dire predictions of youthful agitated activists it seems rather absurd and more than a little ironic to start pondering the value of an electric motorcycle at my stage in life. Pollution reduction depends on wealth and wealth has shrunk, even though that simple truth is not being accepted or even acknowledged most places I go. How are we, the newly poorer, to spend more money reducing an invisible carbon foot print? It is a conundrum, and when you throw the oil of politics on the scientific bonfire you might as well give up altogether.
Simonton Beach boat ramp. Will the floodwaters menace us from here?Environmental activism is promoted nowadays in Key West, amidst the clanging unrecycled beer bottles and screaming two stroke scooters, used as toys by the tourists. I used to think the green living idea was a good one but it is a status quo organization, a rich person's pastime, a conscience salver. It isn't a group dedicated to the paradigm shifting of my more youthful days. We don't see the promotion of solar electrical generation. Keys Energy would be threatened. Using rainwater cisterns to reduce our dependence on the South Florida Aquifer would wreck the Florida Keys Aqueduct's billing cycles they think so we never mention such environmentally sensible radicalism. We ride middle class bicycles and don't promote bike paths (they would cause controversy God forbid) and we drift along in the same old manner driving a Prius instead of a Pontiac.
Earth Day- may it make you feel good as you daub body paint and worship Gaia and commit your all to saving this or that. Me? I'm riding my Bonneville, drinking my rainwater, recycling, composting, growing my vegetables and developing my sense of ironic detachment. And I play with my camera to enhance my feeble attempts at seeing the world through the eyes of Art.God, I love my internal combustion. And in a country that is seeing essential services cut back and the mantra of no new taxes entrenched in the public psyche I am glad to see Key West, the improbable trend setter, forging ahead with no talk of cuts, no talk of unbalanced budgets, no threats of changing the status quo. Indeed, Fire Station Two may get a whole fresh building for the 21st century, and after they twice saved Duval Street from burning down this past year, you'd think they've earned it. At public expense.My night time walk is out on the White Street Pier. The sun has set, it's closing in on ten pm and time to return to work, at my unionized, taxpayer funded job, sitting up all night and being grateful for the chance to work in a world where nothing seems certain except perhaps, that more people will be alive to call 9-1-1 and ask for help. Other people's misery is my job security. Key West at dusk is a lovely place, but it wouldn't be the same without the dead dinosaurs that power my ride around town to see it and photograph it.

"How beauteous mankind is! O brave new world, That has such people in't!"

I'd have gone easy on the "beauteous" had I been William Shakespeare, but Aldous Huxley's soma? I could use some of that.

"All the advantages of Christianity and alcohol; none of their defects."

Happy Earth Day earthlings.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

BPK Ramble

So this is where my blog is meant to be, among the mangroves and salt water of southern Florida. Tomorrow is Earth Day and all the high anxiety of rising water levels, increasing carbon dioxide and exhaust gas pollution will dominate the news cycles for twenty four hours. Here in the Keys where the sun shines and dogs ramble, every day is Earth Day for me, drinking my rainwater, recycling my trash, composting and growing vegetables.
In another critique of modern life we are told a household pet like Cheyenne produces as many harmful emissions as a gas guzzling vehicle, a critique I shrug off on the grounds she was saved from a shelter not purchased as a toy. Perhaps she misses mountains and valleys but she seems to enjoy these rambles where the views are not of leafy hills but salt water and empty horizons.Landscaping without watering is the theory of modern gardening. Support local plants they say not evil Brazilian peppers flowing prettily, as many nasty invasive species are wont to do. The Florida Keys, where the gumbo limbo peels coyly... ...and the sea grapes lose their leaves......and cretinous humans feel compelled to leave their idiotic marks:
Puffy summer clouds are building... ...bringing a promise of future rain. I have no doubt someone will warn ominously of an unusually powerful destructive hurricane season to come, starting June 1st. The heat is building and Cheyenne needs water. She prefers muddy puddles a choice not preferred by humans around the globe many of whom lack access to clean reliable drinking water.A broken trap looks like a lounge chair from a distance, garbage washes up on every coastline including ours.
Mud is drying as we wait for the end of the dry season.
The sun is already scorching hot and I am glad to have put 50 degree (10C) days well behind us. My fervent hope is that climate change isn't a harbinger of permanently colder winters for us down here.
Not many beach combing snow birds are left.
Blue skies and green water and a very narrow strip of gravelly sand.
Home Sweet Home.
For more words and fewer pictures:
====== http://conchscooterscommonsense.blogspot.com/ ===============

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Bye Bye Birmingham

It's time to head back to Key West, by-passing the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum, because I have spent the past three days discussing it's lusciousness. This is a Triumph equipped with tachometer, unlike my low rent model, and it was on display permanently in the museum, unlike mine which is on the road most days. I hadn't ridden mine for a week. It was time to get home.But first we say goodbye in passing to Vulcan, and we find out what exactly Birmingham's famous bean pie tastes like once you get the wrapper off:
...as we have lunch at the best known soul food café:
...and check out the Civil Rights Museum. Birmingham was founded in 1871 and named after the British city where coal and steel powered an industrial surge in the 19th century. So fast did the city grow they called it The Magic City, from 3,000 people in 1880 to a quarter million today. Three quarters of the population is black and attempts at desegregation here as elsewhere persuaded whites to run to the suburbs after the Civil Rights changes of the 1960s. Even today I find Birmingham segregated and blacks on the street look away when a white dude and his Labrador stump by (even when I wasn't wearing pink crocs). I remarked on this to Johnny Coley who sniffed rather tartly in reply:"Oh, you mean like every other US city?" I conceded he had a point but Birmingham has it's own history. Not easily overcome by boy racers and their multi racial motorcycles: As they rode the streets wailing loudly from the barely muffled four cylinder an old black man humping grocery bags looked at them and sniffed" Now why they do that?" "Because they're young" I said in answer to his rhetorical question, remembering my own callow youth. He was unimpressed by my remark as were the kids by my interest. Cheyenne was unimpressed by the 16th Street Baptist Church, the scene of the bombing on September 15th, 1963, that killed four children and effectively helped turn the tide against the extremism of the segregationists. The Civil Rights Museum on Kelly Ingram Park is right next to the Church and welcomes neither dogs nor photographers, which meant Cheyenne spent the duration of our visit snoozing in the car, and my camera spent the tour in my pocket which is a shame because the museum is remarkable.
The park illustrates how close to the business district the church is and the bombing was not an act of violence on the periphery of the city.
The Civil Rights Museum charges $15 to visit ($12 for AAA members) and is a spectacularly refined and beautifully laid out monument to cruelties past. I snuck some pictures from the introductory film: Birmingham became known as Bombingham thanks to the violence of the times which are remembered for the 16th Street Church attack but in fact the city was riddled with violence. The black community embraced peaceful protest as their response.
These acts of public cruelty happened not so long ago. A former girlfriend told me stories of her memories of growing up in Jim Crow Florida. And the screen rolled up and in we went. One British tourist ignored the no photography sign but a guard appeared from nowhere to put him in his place. I figured we were under surveillance.
Afterwards we went to the soul food joint and ordered a slice of bean pie and some macaroni and cheese. The mac and cheese came with a thick slice of cheddar baked on top which was unusual for me. The bean pie was sweet which was a shock as we had expected something savory. We shared our slice for dessert.
With time drawing in on us we planned to eat Indian for dinner and leave very early in the morning. I walked Cheyenne through the neighborhood of the historic district, filled with brick and white people in splendid homes.
Not my dog who is a whore and friend to everyone.
I got my fill of mysterious alleys too which was fun. We walked at random in the cool of 70 degree (19C) afternoons by following Cheyenne's nose and getting lost in the hills among the mansions. I caught glimpses of Johnny Coley's vast apartment complex dominating the Highland Avenue skyline:
Lawn mowing as a social event.
"No Parking In Alley." They could have stolen the signs from Key West.
Birmingham is Alabama's most populous city and I suppose one can blame the University Campus for producing a whole bunch of leftist attitude. I wanted one of these for myself. There were lots of "For Rent" signs everywhere.
And plenty of impressive homes, leftovers overs from the era of affluence and industry.
I met these guys with their new-to-them Vespa 150 out for their first ride. The guy in the red helmet (Alabama is a helmet law state) said he rode it once round the block when he bought it but they were setting off for their first ride two up. When I said I owned an ET4 he said"What's that?" Clearly a scooter novice. I wished them well. Two gay men on a bright scarlet scooter in the middle of Alabama. The times they really are a-changing. I guess I looked pretty gay myself. Oh well.Where were you? My wife asked after we got back from a quick two hour ramble one day.
Checking out our next home, I said. We could fit four of our Ramrod Key house in here. Heating bills must be hell.
And lest we figure we are far from the ocean (which Birmingham is) there was this reminder:
On our evening stroll to an Indian dinner we passed the scooter club out en masse. Very gay I'm sure (sniff!).
And there was Vulcan, god of the forge, presiding over the city. I am sorry I missed the chance of a visit this year as the view by day or night is excellent. We said our goodbyes to Johnny Coley that night promising ourselves an extra early start, which turned out to be pure bollocks and Johnny came back to his apartment after a night with a friend to find us staring blearily out at the world from his terrace.
"What are you doing here?" he asked in astonishment as he stepped into his apartment.
"Do you remember that great breakfast place we went to last time?" my wife asked. Of course he did.
French toast grits, fruit, eggs Benedict and lots of excellent coffee. Then we loaded up on yuppie food, and they weren't kidding when they said they had Alabama's best wine prices so we threw a mixed case of that in the trunk of the long suffering Maxima. My wife had difficulty pulling me away from the display case of my favorite food. We got some fried chicken for a picnic lunch and left Johnny and Birmingham at 11am on a Thursday for the 916 mile drive home. A great time with Johnny Coley in Birmingham. We must do this again. And again.
Federal Highway 82 from Montgomery to I-75 via Eufaula. This is how I remember it, bucolic and Southern with lots of roadside stands in the summer, filled with spicy green beans, boiled peanuts and peaches. Eufaula, mansions, oak trees and shady streets alongside the river.
But they are turning the highway into a four lane expressway so we will have to find another back road next time. From here on out it was four lanes all the way home where we arrived at 4am Friday after seeing not too much of interest all the way down the Turnpike.
And so to bed in preparation for a return to work and the daily hum drum of life in the Keys. I think Birmingham may have replaced Austin as my back up city if we ever decide we can no longer live in the Keys. I hope that day never comes, though rising tides spare no low lying islands anywhere.

My other blog is found here with more words and fewer pictures:
===== http://conchscooterscommonsense.blogspot.com/ =======