Thursday, December 22, 2011

Fat Albert 2009

This essay is from December 2009, and as the last ten days of this year unspool I have included it because Fat Albert is a presence over the Lower Keys and because the Lower Keys have figured hugely in the life of this blog and the 2500 essays stored here. Next month I will be returning to a once a day format, with Chuck of Old Town Key West and we will publish two essays a day, one each on http://TheKeyWestLocal.com. I know Chuck is only interested in Old Town, which is his choice but for me all the Keys from the Seven Mile Bridge south are my playground and will continue to be on our new shared format. I hope you enjoy these retrospective essays and rest assured that while I take a break from daily posting my energy is going into creating the best new all around Key West website with lots of continuous fresh content. Please note that Mad Dawgz BBQ has closed since I first published this story, and that is too bad because I liked them.









It happens sometimes when giving directions and you mention "Blimp Road" in passing, that they think you are joking. "Uh, Blimp Road?" and you just nod your head sagely.It really does exist as you can see. It's a handy street not least because Mad Dawgz BBQ stand is right there, and this is the best barbecue in the Keys. Across the Overseas Highway my wife's "temple"crouches like a monument to physical fitness. it's called Pirate Wellness and is actually a very decent gym if you like those sorts of places (I don't). More obviously there is the Kickin' Back convenience store on the south side of the Highway, and that big white sign tells me I'm five minutes from home on my commute in the morning:
Blimp Road itself is home to the dump, now known as a transfer station, home to recycling and waste removal and all that good stuff (bring your used motorcycle oil for clean disposal) and also to it's namesake, Fat Albert:Blimp Road is couple of miles long and runs dead straight north from the Overseas Highway at about Mile Marker 21:
And the closer you get to the end of the road the bigger Fat Albert gets: And bigger (a telephoto lense helps):




I found a bunch of excellent info about Fat Albert on the Internet, and learned to my surprise that it is in fact part of NORAD, the US Air Force radar defense alert system beloved of movie makers. They say Fat Albert uses radar to detect smugglers but I had an experience when I wondered about that. I saw a smugglers' boat in a Stock Island marina after they had dropped off a dozen Cubans and had been located by the Coastguard and chased into Oceanside Marina. Cuban smuggling is big business these days as Miami Cubans will pay ten grand each to have their friends imported. Smuggled Cubans aren't allowed to stay so when they land they have to say their boat sank because if they come over on their own and land on US soil they get to stay, but if they are smuggled they don't (call your US representative if any of this doesn't make sense). So this smuggler's boat was docked and it was a 25 foot black inflatable with three blacked out outboards and I got to wondering if rumors that they use a heat seeking device on Fat Albert may not be true. That boat seemed like it would be really hard to 'see' on radar...

Be that as it may the blimp flies without any humans on board though it is piloted from the ground. I learned that when I actually met a former pilot, and though I was bursting with questions I refrained as it seems rather silly to ask a person about their involvement with something as secretive as NORAD...Anyway I learned on line that the helium filled blimp flies at 10,000 feet (3,000 meters give or take) and is 175 feet long (55 meters more or less) and 58 feet around (18 meters) and carries 1200 pounds (400 kg) of something mysterious called "payload." It is launched from a ground station visible across the mangroves:
And this is the ground station seen from the water:If you have any doubts about which direction the wind is blowing Fat Albert will point the way:At night you can see Fat Albert blinking red in the night sky. Not everyone sees it though and I seem to recall last year a small private plane took off from around here someplace and flew straight into the wire holding up the blimp. They say the wire has a 26,000 pound (13 ton) breaking strain and it didn't do the plane any good which spun out and crashed killing the people on board. The blimp kept flying until they retrieved it to check for damage. If you fly a plane, like a sailor you should check your charts. And look for blinking lights aloft:
Cheyenne was indifferent to the delights and mysteries of flying blimps. She is also not interested in the water and sticks firmly to dry land. Next summer I am planning on teaching her to enjoy the water.This is the view looking south down Kemp Channel toward Summerland Key on the left.




We have fun together. Awww!

This is the end of Blimp Road at the boat ramp:Just before you reach the end of the road there is a side street to the left but it's not open to the public:The turn off is exactly this far from the end of the road!
The exact cost of flying Fat Albert isn't made public as far as I can tell. But we do know that before Hurricane Wilma in 2005 a similar balloon flying alongside the NORAD blimp carried TV Marti anti-Castro propaganda at a cost to taxpayers of a cool $16,000,000 a year. And naturally the signal never got through as the Cuban authorities jammed it, but it kept the anti-Castro fanatics in Miami happy (and voting Republican in a keystone state). Now we are back down to one:Fat Albert is barely visible in this photograph but it is amazingly visible all round the Lower Keys in real life. It got separated from the ground once in the mid 90s and they had to shoot it down before it reached Cuba and nowadays it seems they have a remote control that can deflate the blimp and bring it to earth if it breaks loose again. One sign of impending strong winds is when Fat Albert is brought back to ground :Fat Albert may be costly but it is amazingly unobtrusive and life in the mangroves goes on as usual. If you stand right under the blimp you can hear it's steering propeller buzzing like a distant lawn mower on a summer afternoon. But out here it is silent and unnoticed:



TV Marti has thankfully faded away but Castro's in-laws, the Diaz-Balarts of Miami, who have pledged eternal hatred still push for Radio Marti to send propaganda to Cuba and here it is at Mile Marker 15, an unobtrusive gated little road opposite Baby's Coffee, according to Google Maps: More taxpayer dollars being happily wasted to keep the Miami Mafia (as Castro calls them) happy. I listen to Radio Nacional on 950am (classical music) and Radio Reloj at 570 and590am (news headlines) and Radio Rebelde 620am which means I suppose I am getting a freebie from the Cuban government. Pity it's so boring, all Communist propaganda of a rather old fashioned sort! On the other hand I can't imagine how boring it is to be on the ground piloting the stationary blimp. The Cold War lives and demands its sacrifices I suppose.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Sunset Cruise 2008

When I first published this essay on the 29th of February 2008 I titled it "Waterskiing with Lookouts," because it includes a story of old time Key West. Which is why I am inlcuding it as part of my daily retrospective of some of my favorite essays over the past four and a half years. Don't forget please to bookmark http://TheKeyWestLocal.com to follow my blog to its new daily home on January 1st 2012.

When Jan sent the invitation to take a sunset sail to celebrate Lucy's birthday I remembered what I had previously forgotten: that I hadn't been sailing in a long time. We sold our catamaran two years ago and that was after it hadn't left the dock in a year and that was when we got back from our Bahamas trip in 2004 I think. So it was past time to get under sail and even though my wife was away shopping I wanted to go and celebrate in style. Carol and Chuck had fun also, on the schooner Hindu celebrating Lucy's unspecified birthday:



And so I did, and it was perfect, and it's one of those things one should do more often and instead we leave them for visitors to enjoy and they do. The eager tourists were sweet and spiffy in their name brand clothes and excellent good manners as they listened to Captain Kevin expound on the joys of Key West. They were entranced and I liked counting myself among them as we lurched out into the flow of the harbor life. I remember when I used to run a sailboat for cruise ship visitors, they liked getting out on the water as much, if not more, than resident Key Westers. Of course residents get all squirrely about playing tourist in a home town where being local is a badge of honor like being made is an achievement in the Cosa Nostra. So, to avoid the dreaded tourist label we skip the sunset cruise, and what a shame that is.




In actual fact the actual sunset sucked, not least because the cold front that was getting ready to climb into bed with us was loading the skies with thick gray clouds, but the sail was just fine without a wild display of purples and yellows and orange across the evening horizon.




Before driving us out of Key West Bight Kevin the captain gave the safety speech in a thick New England drawl and he pointed out that Key West is home to the second largest (winter) fleet of sailing schooners. Who knew. It was also his pleasure to point out that five of us on the boat were also licensed Captains, but I for one was busy ordering room service, too busy to be an actual licensed captain.




Room service came courtesy of the fresh young things living their adventures in Key West before old age and respectability descend on them. They raised Kevin's sails and then turned their hands to hauling out the wine and the beer, complementary they called it; free I called the ice cold can of Yuengling. I dislike euphemisms. Then the youthful adventurers brought out trays of bruschetta sandwiches, fried bread with meat and cheese and peppers and it was all too delicious. " Who told them my wife is out of town?" I asked, glad to have dinner served to me. Everyone was too busy eating and drinking to reply.




And so it went, this most civilized means of travel, a warm teak deck to sit on surrounded by true friends who know how to live and let live, people with lots of stories to tell and ready to laugh. We were I think, a little rowdy, though it was cheerful middle aged rowdiness, glad-to-have-woken-up-this-morning good cheer. I was thoroughly happy watching Kevin start the engine to get us through the tack, and then listen to the silence of sail as he entertained those lucky people sitting in the front row as we sliced past the Key West waterfront including this crowd of people perched on the pier at Simonton Beach peering at some unseen thing, the missing sunset perhaps:




By the time we had tacked out to the end of Fort Zachary Taylor it was getting quite dark and we had been crossing tacks with all the other schooners out hauling people around the harbor, including trading cannon shots which was corny and funny and very loud.




It so happened that Gretchen was one of our slightly rowdy party of locals and Gretchen was one of those five spare captains on board, and she started the cruise seeking approval for her decision to abandon buffing her 20-foot center console, and take the evening off instead. We all heartily agreed this was the right thing to do. And so it went. The thing was, that as the good ship Hindu turned around and rode the tide back towards Mallory Square and the lights came up over a darkened Key West, one of our number brought up the time honored lament about the old Key West, a phantom of a place before hotels lined the waterfront and the locals sold their heritage for a large pot of gold. Well Gretchen got to telling her stories of boating in the good old days (the only aspect of those days that I think I really miss) and we got to talking about water skiing, a hobby I never took up during my life on the surf riddled coast of Central California.




Gretchen (dressed in blue, stone cold sober, sitting next to a startled birthday girl who couldn't figure out what the flash was about) told of water skiing the flats even on windy days in places unmentionable, where calm waters lie between exposed flats that keep the waves out of the skier's path even on the very windiest of days. Ah yes those were the days, not least she said because skiing was allowed. Nowadays she said, the Coast Guard has made it an idle zone. That is to say a zone where the engine can be run at idle speed, not a place where only idlers may dawdle. She looked dreamily at the bright lights of the city's waterfront and remarked how odd the world had become. Nowadays you can only water ski with a lookout, she mused. And I wondered what it would be like, not just to water ski, but to do it like an outlaw, a gang member riding a wave while the Coast Guard's back is turned. It sounded very exciting, and I felt perhaps we should score one for modern day Key West, a place where lookouts, the epitome of lawlessness, find employment.

Oh well, I'll probably never know as teak and canvas and six miles per hour is more my waterborne speed.


It started to rain on the way home and I was so energized by my gentlemanly sail I failed to stop to put on my waterproofs and got home riding the Bonneville tinkled upon and buzzing. What a great day.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Goodbye To All That

Four and a half years ago I started this blog and through many permutations have reached a place today where it is time to start again. Chuck of Old Town Key West and I have been talking for a while about combining our blogs into one place and offering additional pages to people interested in Key West and the Lower Keys. We believe we have found a formula that will suit you the reader and will perhaps find it to be a better way of seeing the islands that you enjoy viewing and visiting. I started riding and taking pictures trying to create a record of these islands in June 2007 as I went about on my Vespa 250 GTS. My blog page was called Key West Vespa. But I soon discovered writing about a scooter was limiting and boring. I branched out and took pictures of my life in Key west. I used the blogspot format because it was easy and efficient and accessible. These are qualities that Chuck and I both hold dear and will continue with our new combined project. Too often we are offered "new and improved" as though change is automatically a good thing. Frequently change sucks big time and the changes offered are actually for the benefit of someone other than the reader. Believe me when I say I have struggled with this conundrum so I am pretty sure of myself when I say that the new website will not be too jarring at all and I think you will actually, truly, find it improved.


My idea is to use a font, background color and title colors that closely resemble this format that I found on blogspot and that much to my surprise is a font that has not been used by anyone else. The front page of our new magazine format will be composed of two daily essays in long format, morning and evening by Chuck and myself on whatever takes our fancy. You will come to the new page on January First and you will open it to find a fresh essay of a dozen or two pictures just as you find now on either blog. Alongside we will have recent post and recent comment windows. Chuck and I will keep the comment section lively but my promise is you will never have to do more than open the page to get the latest picture essay on Key West and the Lower Keys. And Cheyenne will continue to figure in my life as much as ever.
That however is not the end of the story because if it were, what would be the point of the change, right? What Chuck and I envision is that beyond the daily blog entries there will be pages of stuff about the keys that will be of interest to you and that you will want to read. We are open to suggestions as the new website is expandable over time and we have designed it to be flexible so we can adapt what we offer to you the readers. At this stage we plan to start out with pages devoted to our favorite pictures of the Keys. we will be adding pictures to the gallery as the mood strikes us of places and people and scenery we find appealing. We will encourage you to help us select memorable pictures for our Gallery page. You will be able to download these pictures for free and use them yourselves, just as you can now as long as you mention our website.I first came to Key West by Vespa in 1981 but despite many return trips over the decades, by boat and by land the urge to settle down didn't overcome my wife and I until 2000. Chuck on Fleming had no such qualms and came saw and settled three years ago from the frigid Upper Midwest. We both enjoy living here, he in town and me in the suburbs on Ramrod Key. I enjoy commuting by motorcycle and while Chuck enjoys tinkering with his bikes between rides he likes to commute on foot. We both like taking pictures, and we hope those of you who come to Key West and the Keys and who take your own pictures will be moved to add them to a page we will be calling Reader Contributions. This will be your page for picture and word submissions, any way you like. Your views of Key West scenery, your memories of life here, or of vacations here or you add a vacation photo that moves you.



On January 1st Key West Diary will be no more as a daily record. It will become a static page on the Internet, apparently one more of those "I lost interest in my blog" public deaths by indifference. In fact it will be a static monument to my perseverance though innocence, stupidity, self doubt, and lack of confidence. With about 2500 photo essays since June 2007 I do not look back as my blog as a failure, far from it. I am actually feeling rather sad about abandoning this page that has been such a part of my daily life for so long. Nevertheless I have not lost interest in doing what I do in my free time. Giovanni, my childhood buddy in Italy has no free time because he's a busy cardiologist so he smokes compulsively instead. He envies me my free time and my life in the sun. If he lived in Key West Chuck might include him in his list of People of Texture features that we plan to include. We will talk with people who live in these islands and include their stories and their pictures on our front page. Then we will store the essays on a separate page which will be available for you to check out any time you want. We plan to build an online treasure trove of pictures and stories and people.



I am glad lots of people have enjoyed looking at pictures of this highly enjoyable place to live. Lots of people love Key West, and some want to live here while others keep coming back year after year to enjoy an escape on vacation. I have included pictures of my own escapes back to Italy because this was my diary......but from here on out the focus of the daily essays will be the Lower Keys. To that end Key West Diary ends on the 31st but the pictures and essays will continue on the web at http://www.thekeywestlocal.com/ Chuck and I and our wives and friends have been butting heads figuring out this new web magazine that will continue to provide actual online content that is worth looking at several times a day with all the pictures and wry ironies that Key West and environs offer us daily. We will be better equipped to do the social media nonsense that is so important these days and links to the ubiquitous Facebook and Twitter will be included and mobile machinery will have easier access in the future as well. Our new website is the fresh manifestation of our continuing commitment to these islands and to recording the passing of the days and the people who inhabit them. Now it is up to you to bookmark http://www.thekeywestlocal.com/ (don't ask how complicated the search was for a suitable domain name!) and keep us on our toes. We do not plan to let our combined website become stale not only because we are committed to it but because we want you to become committed to it too.Meanwhile I will post one essay a day here for the rest of this month as we work on setting up the new site where I have no doubt we will see you on January 1st.

"The time has come," the Walrus said,
"To talk of many things:
Of shoes--and ships--and sealing-wax--
Of cabbages--and kings--
And why the sea is boiling hot--
And whether pigs have wings."


Good night, good luck and thanks for reading this blog.

Monday, December 19, 2011

Wheels Across Key West

This short essay reverts to one of my favorite subjects of whimsy in this blog, which is how people get around the Southernmost City. The subject came to mind when I spotted this gaggle of moped riding tourists stopped by the light at North Roosevelt and Fifth. They were off to a flying start and brilliantly they all got their feet tucked up without injury and flew off down the boulevard in a group without knocking each other over. That was impressive, I am not fond of group riding.


This guy was riding a weird Chinese scooter-built-to-look-like-a-motorcycle. The line between the two types of powered two wheelers is getting less well defined as time goes by.


This man was skateboarding but it wasn't strictly for sport. He was taking his shopping home which I thought rather deft of him. The Kymco scooter in the foreground is equipped like a typical delivery vehicle in Key West with the cooler for a top case.


On the open road home I did a poor job of snapping. These brisk snowbird cyclists all dressed up and highly visible.


This dude was enjoying the fresh pavement at Mile Marker 17 where they did not seem to have the room to create a. Proper new bicycle path.


A proper cycle path the length of the Keys is the aim. It seems too long and too hot and too exposed to be much fun cycling the highway. I've done short bits with my pedal bike and that was how it seemed to me. Riding it on my Bonneville is always fun.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Gerald Adams School

College Road winds round north Stock Island in a semi-circle from US Highway One back to the highway over the course of a meandering mile and a bit. The city annexed this portion of Stock Island to facilitate a gold course development by the indefatigable Pritam Singh, he of Truman Annex fame. In addition the city got a little extra room to build out.


One city addition was Gerald Adams Elementary school, one of the newer projects in the school district. It sits between the Community College and the former trash transfer station N every day the slow children signs come out to keep traffic tame on the meandering College Road.


Not everyone knows this side of Stock Island is actually in the city but it is which accounts for the sidewalks that reach almost all the way round the semi-circle and more are being built all the time.


Crawling along at 15 miles per hour, not a human in sight I had time to enjoy the bright tropical colors of Key West's most far flung school.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad