White Street Pier

August and September are the hottest months in the Keys, though daytime temperatures rarely rise above 90 degrees the air is thick and close, especially in the city but even on the canal where I live outside town. I don't mind these two hardcore hot months as much as some people do, but I am a fan of air conditioning. The a/c at work failed last week which caused the entire building to smell dank and warm like a locker room after a lot of showers, and it was frankly horrible. Dispatch however got two window units to carry us (and our radio equipment which has to be kept cool, thank heavens) through the crisis. It's hard to imagine that by mid November some people will be feverishly pulling winter clothes out of storage, long pants, socks and heavy shirts mostly. Right now our canal where we swim most afternoons is as hot as bathwater.

Taking a lunch break at three in the morning is s hock to the system as night time temperatures don't generally drop much below 85 degrees and stepping out of the building one finds oneself sweating pretty fast. Getting on the Vespa doesn't do much good as it feels like you're riding into a hot hair dryer. For most people in temperate climes winter is the time to stop riding but around here some people hang  up their riding gear in summer and take to their air conditioned  cars. Not me, I rode to the White Street Pier for some fresh sea air and peace and quiet.

The pier sticks out in an ell shape straight south from the end of White Street and makes a 90 degree right turn at the end about a quarter mile out. Basically its a fishing pier and the waves tend to pass underneath except when they are big when they break over the pier in spectacular fashion. To walk on the pier is like walking on a well paved runway with street lights and benches.

Some people like to come here at dawn and gather to talk, drink coffee and bore their dogs while waiting to see if the sun plans on coming up. Its not a bad place to do just that as you get an uninterrupted view up the south shore of the island. So far the sun has come up each day as far  as I can tell.

The pier is being renovated as part of this frenzy of island wide construction. Roads, sewers, street surfaces and now the pier are  all being repaired all at once it seems like. Happily the pier is frequently open in the middle of the work as they are closing off only the bots that are actually getting work done so much of the pier is available for silent contemplation, fish killing and in some cases sleeping, until at least they get caught.

The Pier is sometimes used as the butt of a joke at the expense of the gullible when they are told that it is the rump of the former bridge to Havana, now closed down by the endlessly stupid Embargo against Cuba.

Its a good place to walk to dissipate  some of the tension that builds up from answering 911 calls all night. The breeze is at its strongest and the walk out and back is easy. I was standing around at the end of the pier minding my own business enjoying the inky darkness of the ocean when I was startled out of my reverie by a voice asking me some damned fool question, like how was I doing or something. Apparently a man and a woman had decided to do some star gazing on the pier, or at least that was what they called it and they were lying in the shadowy darkness behind a ramp between segments of the pier. Its difficult to find a spot to be absolutely alone in Key West. I tried to be polite but I think I failed, stumping off wondering why people can't leave you alone.

Then, if you want to be alone too much, there is the AIDS memorial at the inland end of the pier. It should be a healthy reminder that for quite a few people life got cut short a bit too early. I daresay these folks wouldn't mind getting their time back and to spend some of it engaged in fruitless small talk with strangers. Had I had the time I felt inclined to stroll back out and try to engage with the star gazers. 

I have to say it is a bit startling to see a name here you recognize as a formerly fully functional human, but even more startling is it to realize that there are endless rows of names that mean nothing more to you than the names listed in a phone book.

In the midst of life, as the Good Book says, we are in death, though happily not every 911 call has a tragic outcome. 

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Financial Crisis Explained

With thanks to Motorcycle Bridge Club, always a great read even if you like motorcycles or respect bridges.

One City, Many Halls

Behold the New City Hall, the former Glynn Archer School, itself a monument to education in Key West throughout most of the 20th century. Now to be the nerve center of city operations in the 21st. 

I like the look of the place and I believe it will be extremely functional, despite the fears of the critics of the cost of renovation. It is across White Street from the National Weather Service office, useful when hurricanes strike, and just a few blocks from the police department, ditto when hurricanes etc, and furthermore the school and its ancillary buildings cover a vast city block which leaves lots of room for all the functions of city government, plus parking for visiting citizens. And the facade looks fabulous. This ugly green fence marks the edges of the property, one block wide and half a mile long, here looking west on United Street:

This  business of sorting out a new city hall has been vexing the city since Hurricane Wilma drowned the city hall on Angela Street in 2005. It wasn't  rising seawater which killed the building, but rainwater that dripped through the roof during the storm and riddled the building, already elderly, with mold. In response to the crisis the city moved everyone out and found new, temporary quarters at Havana Plaza on Flagler Avenue, itself a building wrecked by Wilma and rebuilt. Inertia seemed to set in and when the suggestion was brought up that perhaps it was time to seek a permanent solution to the wanderings of city hall Key West got its collective knickers in a twist and a huge public debate swept the city about what to do.

Some thought remaining in the rented accommodations on Flagler was the best idea which was not too sensible as the city offices are scattered through the length of the plaza building, parking is minimal and its a long way (by Key West standards) from downtown citizens equipped only with feet or bicycles who might want to visit their city offices. Plus, lets face it, for those of us with an aesthetic standard of even the basest sort the place is plug ugly and unimpressive. Good for commerce no doubt but awful as the people's place. 

So Mayor Cates brought up Glynn Archer School (named for a valued administrator of years ago) which was about to become surplus to school district requirements with the massive new construction at Horace O'Bryant school nearby. Some people suggested refurbishing the original cause of the problem, already half a century old and getting older and mustier (named for Josephine Baker a long time city clerk much admired). But the building fortunately is as tired as the ghastly 1960s architectural style it espouses:

The old city hall on Angela at Simonton also houses Fire Station Number 2, long overdue for an overhaul. I've never been inside but I'm told conditions for the 24 hour shifts are positively medieval so the plan took hold to demolish the lot, build a new fire station and use the rest of the land for parking to serve Duval Street whose 600 bock is a short walk away.  

Don't imagine for one minute that plan went over smoothly but the Mayor spent more political capital than one might have thought he had and somehow Glynn Archer with an estimated bill around 25 million dollars won out. And the firefighters get this proper fire station palazzo in the old city hall parking lot, facing Simonton Street, even as the main building is to be demolished.. 

With me so far? City Hall on Angela Street got washed out and became medium old city hall. Flagler Avenue became temporary city hall, meanwhile Glynn Archer finally became new city hall. That leaves the grand daddy of the them all, known as Old City Hall still standing on Greene Street still looking magnificent with a clock tower that actually tells the time. Pretty cool.

Better than that though because this building, built in the era long before motor cars were invented still functions as the meeting room for city commissioners and other city committees and advisory groups. It has a traditional meeting chamber with a proper dais, glowing with wood trim and approached by a magnificent wrought iron staircase.

As much as it pains me, I have no doubt the newest city hall will come equipped with a modern commission chamber for such gatherings and the door will finally close on the oldest of old city halls. Yet for those who reside in the city I have no doubt the facility on White Street, with its magnificent facade and modern equipment will do the job required with maximum efficiency as is proper in the modern era. And its about time Key West reduced the quantity of  its city halls to a manageable number.

Morning In Key West

Morning, a fresh start for those who don't do shift work and labor odd hours, on random nights, catch as catch can.

A rising sun creates it's own special light.

Not everyone knows the poet was being ironic when he suggested strong fences make for good neighbors. This house, below has two fences:

Robert Frost spent winters in Key West, perhaps he knew whereof he spoke. Perhaps not. Check it out: ""Good Fences Make Good Neighbours": History and Significance of an Ambiguous Proverb"

The cemetery makes for great neighbors in my opinion.

Shadows.

Darkness and light.

The drama of thunder. What a great morning.

 

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Unions Are The Problem

Courtesy Wisconsin AFL-CIO.

Pharmacies For All

So what is it about the conversion of a slightly eccentric Key West department store into a run of the mill corporate pharmacy that has caused a ripple to run through the placid waters of the mill pond political waters of the Southernmost City?

The ubiquitous Facebook corporation gave a platform to people who deplore the change, and they in turn provoked a 3am rebuttal from across the ethernet sounding chamber; all of which I read with increasing puzzlement at a remove created by the support or dissent of others in the network of "friends."

The odd thing about the position taken above is that it states with passion what has been obvious. Tony Falcone's operation had run out of steam for whatever reason. Everyone had an opinion as to why, everyone except me, as I have no particular bent toward shop keeping. I worked at Fast Buck's one year as I waited to be hired by the city. I liked it enough I asked for a raise before quitting to be a dispatcher but though I was a good worker in the shipping department I was not worth twelve dollars an hour, so I went to the city for fifteen and full benefits. Lucky for me as I just marked my tenth anniversary with the city and qualification for a full pension.

I enjoyed working there, the drama, the personalities all viewed from my half-out-the-door perch, made for fine memories, but at heart I wanted structure and certainty in my job.

The attics were warrens of supplies, more suited to the dusty halls of a castle than a shop overlooking Duval Street. I took this picture one Fantasy Fest when bead throwers staffed the ramparts. Not terribly corporate, and they reminded me of my forays above the offices to find merchandise for my boss.

Fast Buck's was that store you would go to and profess familiarity with, to convince yourself you belonged in Key West. One mainland city commissioner famously had to resign after a Key West visit when she returned to her council chambers and passed around boxes of penis pasta as a gift, a souvenir of a happy vacation. Not the gift that is expected or desired in inoffensive mainstream department stores. But Key West...well, that's different.

Not anymore. The Strand was once a movie theater, built in the 1920s which later fell into disrepair completing its theatrical run as a pornographic outlet in a town that was about ready to let Duval Street collapse after the withdrawl of the Navy in the 1960s.

It is now a national pharmacy open all night. But it used to employ local youth showing movies. One comment on a movie forum from 2009 discussing the Strand as one setting of the John Goodman comedy Matinee:

Anonymous said...

I worked there in the 80's when it was a nightclub. Very strange as the building in the movie really looks nothing like The Strand. The outside ticket booth and the stairs yeah maybe but the rest I don't recognise. What a beautiful place that the town allowed to be destroyed! The town is so commercial now I don't even desire to go back.

The picture above from http://www.conchs.com a nostalgia site filled with pictures of places and people of Key West as it was "in the day." I find it hard to bear sometimes when people want to claim Key West for themselves and their era. As I grow older I find myself surrounded by this attitude and I resist it. It is to Key West's credit that everyone wants a piece of it but really, I think if you look underneath the nostalgia some things haven't changed. The San Carlos, wedged between the Fast Buck CVS and the Strand Walgreens is a an outpost of the Miami Cuban emigres versus Cuban government argument that has remained the same pretty much though no longer a diplomatic representative of Cuba. It's a great place to watch movies or hear music but it spends most of its time in staunchly non commercial shuttered form. Not all of Duval Street is crassly commercial.

There is a CVS at 12 Duval, near the Ocean Key House.

You can't quite see the new one going up at 500 Duval from here but it's a five block walk:

Nor can you see the other CVS on Truman and Simonton, but it's close by. Eleven blocks separate the four national chain pharmacies listed above. But we aren't done yet! Note the solid uninspired generic shopping mall architecture of this store:

The thing is Key West has developed no more vision now than it did in its past. Crass commercialism is an expression of economic vitality, and much of Key West's 20th century history was a cycle of booms (alcohol prohibition smuggling) and busts (the First Great Depression) then another boom (World War Two Navy) and then the indifference of a half century of the American pursuit of the foreign exotic vacation which pulled its horns in with the rise of Muslim fundamentalism and the fear of the foreigner, which leaves this little town ideally place to absorb the newly fearful domestic travelers seeking safe exoticism. And now we have another CVS a mile and a half from the one on Simonton, here in the supremely ugly but possibly useful Overseas Market. Nothing exotic here, move along please, locals only:

One can't blame Tony Falcone for selling his storefront to a winning bidder remembering he had made noise about the CVS interest in the store for long enough to give local entrepreneurs a chance, so there it is. And here's another Walgreens across the street from the CVS at Overseas Market. You have to wonder why Americans are willing to pay so much for so many medications to make this kind of market saturation profitable. The chain supermarkets nearby sell pharmacies, and there is one surviving local pharmacist in the Professional Building on 12th Street which houses the rump of the infamous Dennis Pharmacy much beloved on Simonton Street with the Naugahyde and chrome coffee shop (now a bank). Americans pay higher prices than anyone else anywhere else in the world for their medications. Why? Because corporate America has sold the freemarket myth so convincingly that price controls such as are governmentally mandated in the rest of the world don't apply here. Hence the plethora of identical, boxed, junk filled pharmacies on a four mile long island with 23,000 residents. Profit is the watchword so keep paying premium prices for your meds you free marketers with high blood pressure, diabetes and all the rest.

And yet it's not enough, it's never enough. There's one more being built at Mile Marker Five on Stock Island, just outside Key West. And if you don't think this is a harbinger of what's to come in the way of change for down at heel Stock Island, then you aren't paying attention.

In a world where the Orwellian myths of a non existent past circumscribe the political language of the present it's impossible to imagine local political leaders coming up with a coherent, government supervised strategy to create a downtown that is coherent, humane and dare I say it, useful. And government intervention has to be acceptable to the mythmakers who bleat "socialism" anytime a potentially successful social strategy rears it's ugly battered head... I don't blame Falcone for being the instrument of one more useless pharmacy on Duval Street, and I don't know what the city commission could have done to change the outcome, but I will note that at the Key West Bight where the city owns the land and leases the properties not one national chain has made inroads. The Singhs, the Spottswoods and the Swifts have made a fortune off the charms of the old Key West broad they have prostituted for so long and it's too bad they can't direct her fate away from an old age devoted to supporting stores that give no meaning to Old Town life. Mayor Cates burnt all his political capital just getting the city a beautiful functional city hall at Glynn Archer School. His critics wanted city hall in trailers or in rented rooms as though civic mindfulness were something to be ashamed of. It's not that Key West is beset by commercialism, it's that too much of it is crass. Key West has no ecological sensitivities, no sense of history other than the trite rubbish spoon fed to gullible tourists, and the loss of Fast Bucks is not only the loss of just penis pasta but also of a Tropical Trash department and a gay outrageous cheerfulness in the midst of a world filled with fearful, offend no one, dreary franchised shopkeepers. Fast Bucks was theater, CVS is medication. What a drag.

The concept of combatting sprawl is hardly new, and even though Key West lacks land to permit actual sprawl this invasion of endless chains amounts to the same thing. Indeed there is a website called exactly that, http://www.sprawlwatch.org and from there this excerpt:

————-————

The Aspen Institute's Rural Economic Policy Program has also been examining the peculiar dilemmas facing small rural towns. Its 1995 report, Rural Communities in the Path of Development: Stories of Growth, Conflict and Cooperation, distills a great deal of the wisdom that small town mayors and developments experts have acquired in combating sprawl. As distinctive, stable small towns, many communities have the luxury of deliberately choosing what kind of community they want to become. "We can't ignore the fact that this economy shapes people, and either arms them or disarms them in terms of being able to be part of the community," said Maria Varela of Ganados del Valle, Los Ojos, New Mexico. It's our desire to create a model of doing business in a way that we generate community, not just economic wealth.

The Aspen Institute outlines three strategies for dealing with rapid economic growth in small rural towns:
* Managing land use and resources to protect, for example, open space, environmental resources, historical structures and community character;
* Community-based economic development to restructure and diversify the local economy so that long-term and low- and moderate-income residents benefit from growth; and
* Community or civic capacity building to help communities confront change through goal-setting, education, leadership development, organizing, civic participation, conflict resolution and consensus-building.

The National Trust for Historic Preservation has also been active in helping small towns balance growth with community values. Through its National Main Street Center, the National Trust has provided technical expertise to help downtowns revitalize themselves in ways that build upon a town's historic identity. Another excellent resource is the Nature Conservancy's Center for Compatible Economic Development in Leesburg, Virginia.

Superstore Sprawl
The colonization of rural America by superstores such as Wal-Mart is another issue that calls for a response from small towns, whose downtown business districts are often decimated. The National Trust has two publications that address these issues: How Superstore Sprawl Can Harm Communities: And What Citizens Can Do About It, and Better Models for Superstores: Alternatives to Big-Box Sprawl. The first report, published in 1994, describes the actual economic, fiscal, environmental and social impacts of superstores, before outlining effective strategies for combating mall sprawl. The report also provides a number of case studies of small towns that have devised better models for dealing with the multinational retailers. The second Trust report, published in 1997, describes how such stores as Wal-Mart and Toys-R-Us have been integrated into existing downtowns rather than located on a town's fringe, where it typically contributes to sprawl and downtown decline.

Another player in combating superstores is Al Norman, who led a successful campaign to prevent Wal-Mart from locating on the fringe of Greenfield, Massachusetts. Norman now operates a consulting business, Sprawl-Busters, which advises community groups how to combat Wal-Marts that are not wanted.

-——-—-——————

So community intervention, not on the radar in Key West, is not unknown elsewhere.

This is the Strand I'd like to see back (in a photo from the Florida Public Library files). A place that welcomes you to downtown and even though the sailors and the gay men they attracted have gone elsewhere the rest of us who aren't fossilized could bring a modern yuppy vibe to this small town. I'm 56 and when I go and see live theater in winter I feel like I'm a youngster out on the town in Palm Beach. Key West is selling itself to rich old farts and to cruise ship tourism, simultaneously and schizophrenically. And this apparently divergent path motivated by maximum instant profit is the underlying reason why critics think that only now has Key West sold out to commercialism. The commercialism of the past was grounded in the community that lived here. The families that are the lifeblood of small towns can't afford it here. Schools lack parental involvement as parents are working too much in an effort to stand still, and without a University the city lacks the moral conscience of an educated middle class to point out that recycling, water conservation, solar energy, bicycle paths, pedestrian zones, trees and interesting eccentric stores are what improve quality of life and do not detract from it. If you look at small towns that win quality of life awards on national lists Key West is never among them. Yet this place has abundant live music, theater, movies, literary events, art galleries and decent eateries. It boasts an actual authentic native cuisine, a core of local residents who grew up here and a climate year round to die for. It's architeure is second to none. Yet places as oddball as Sandpoint Idaho, Kennett Square Pennsylvania and Bardstown Kentucky get national mentions as interesting places to visit. Any mention of Key West in the sidebar includes the tired notation that the city has lost some luster.

If you think Key West is a livable town stand on Stock Island near the new CVS site at eight o'clock on a weekday morning and observe the traffic backed up for a mile or more. Every work day they line up like desperate supplicants at a job fair. Which is another reason to work nights and live affordably in a modern home in the hinterlands of the canals of the Lower Keys (and to commute by motorcycle). These people line up to get to work in the city that is the economic engine of the Lower Keys, the city failing to find itself a new identity in a changing world.

The Lower Keys offer a high cost quality of life better than most places in my opinion, not least because I enjoy life lived in sunshine and primary colors with saltwater nearby and people odd enough that still I don't stand out. I hold on tight to the fading proposition that minding your own business is a valuable asset in a neighbor, and I try hard to remember how isolated Key West was in the early 80s when I was a youngster seeking a new home. Today I'd love to return to that Key West but in all honesty the internet has made isolation so much more interesting than previously and where the internet goes, so goes civilization. I wish I had a conclusion to draw, a formula to propose, an answer for the perceived ills of society. Perhaps, sadly it's time Key West printed a copy of that noted bumper sticker "Keep.....Weird" By the time you have to fight to keep Austin or Portland or Boulder weird it's too late in my opinion. The weirdos moved on already.

Instead I shall tell myself it really wasn't that great way back when and in a rational world excess will level off and the pendulum will swing back etc etc... Still, I wish Fast Bucks hadn't gone.

 

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