Wednesday, November 11, 2020

Sunshine

While I am enjoying the slightly cooler weather after our sideswipe by the modestly proportioned Hurricane Eta I am fair fed up with gray skies and sudden unexpected showers of rain. I had to hunt around a bit but I found some pictures of sunshine and bunny rabbits and candy canes. Actually no but I was on Duval Street in real sunshine once upon a time. I remember it with joy.
The thing about Duval Street is that it's not really a place for people who need to buy normal stuff. By normal I a mean anything other than alcohol, medical cannabis and t-shirts with unusual sexual suggestions on them. If you need a knitting needle or a pair of lederhosen Duval Street is not for you. If you need bread milk and pistachios the nearest you can find a proper supermarket is Fausto's on Fleming at Bahama.
To penetrate this deep downtown requires fortitude, a mask if you can't stay socially distanced and a desire to see how vacationers look in their natural habitat. Upper Duval, so called despite the fact it is the southern end of the street, is a dozen blocks from the bars and beery smells of the sidewalks of Lower Duval (the northern end confusingly).
I like it much better as there is a slightly less frenzied tone to the sidewalks and I can look up and see witches' hats if I am so inclined.
This side street looking west to Bahama Village holds the promise of the key West you really want to see, narrow lanes much greenery and no hawkers bothering you as you stroll by.
You can even stop in the shade and make an impenetrable composition of fencing and blue skies and palm fronds and dazzle friends and neighbors with your artistry:
And if that isn't enough check out the nice colors on the buildings and ask yourself why sky blue looks so blue under the tropical winter sun. Keep coming back until you find the answer.

 

Armistice Day

 For Veterans

Anthem for Doomed Youth

What passing-bells for these who die as cattle?
      — Only the monstrous anger of the guns.
      Only the stuttering rifles' rapid rattle
Can patter out their hasty orisons.
No mockeries now for them; no prayers nor bells; 
      Nor any voice of mourning save the choirs,—
The shrill, demented choirs of wailing shells;
      And bugles calling for them from sad shires.

What candles may be held to speed them all?
      Not in the hands of boys, but in their eyes
Shall shine the holy glimmers of goodbyes.
      The pallor of girls' brows shall be their pall;
Their flowers the tenderness of patient minds,
And each slow dusk a drawing-down of blinds.

Tuesday, November 10, 2020

Dealing With Hurricanes

How to deal with a hurricane, there's a subject no one can answer. These people figured Hurricane Eta, a Category One storm (74mph sustained, albeit briefly in this case) might flood their streets so they followed the time honored strategy of parking away from home at the highest parking spots in these low lying islands: approaches to the Highway One bridges.
Keys Weather
We got a few calls at work from people who live under the delusion that dispatchers are centers of information. I found the Monroe County Emergency Management page was easy to read well laid out and packed with information. So when Anxious Vacationer called I went to the page which you will now bookmark and promise me you will never ever bother dispatch with questions about whether or not you should come on vacation in the face of a storm. Or whether to evacuate or will the storm hit us or any other of the vague haunting feelings of inadequacy that strike the hearts of the uninitiated. If you don't have a camper van make a hotel reservation within a day's drive and try to make it for your likely evacuation date. then go stay in a  hotel and see what happens.
Keys Hurricane Weather
The advice business is not my thing but the advice I try to give  when I'm pushed into a corner goes like this: I start by trying to understand the questioner just a little bit. Are you a Disney vacationer? Someone who expects no adventure, perfect room service and all attractions like all menu items available exactly as promised? Or do you rate a vacation a success if you come away feeling like you accomplished something, learned something and felt a jolt of excitement? Do you get pissed if the lights go out? 
Hurricane Eta
This isn't a right or wrong quiz, neither vacationer is better than the other but one of them won't feel good waking up in a "wind event" and they are the people who call dispatch at three in the morning and say "the lights went out..?"  My answer when I was on night shift was always "Do you have medical equipment that needs electricity?" After that you have to help the resort vacationer, even the one in an Air BnB come to terms with the fact that the lights will come back when they come back. My advice? Go back to sleep, which never pleased any of the worriers. Rest assured Keys Energy has put a lot of money into the power system and the lights don't go out very often at all. Actually there wasn't even a hint of an outage in this latest storm. And I never expected there to be one. 
Hurricane Eta Preparations
Flooding. There's a thought to scare anyone, brown water filled with alligators and sewage swirling through your living room...the scenarios are enough to keep anyone awake as they listen to the storm arrive. Hurricane Wilma in 2005 wrecked Key West with flooding, backwash, rain and lots of terrified 911 calls. We'd seen New Orleans sink under Hurricane Katrina a few months (and several hurricane letters) previously and it was chilling. I studied that storm and spoke to old timers who had known flooding was in the cards. East winds from Mexico flood Key West and I have watched that pattern ever since and it has held true. Pay attention because if a storm comes from the Yucatan to Key West expect flooding and get serious with your sand bags, something like what you see above at CVS.
Hurricane Eta
140 mile an hour winds break all the rules. My rented home on Cudjoe got 7 foot surge when Hurricane Irma landed from the south, breaking the previous rule wide open.  Part of hurricane preparation is learning to understand storms as they approach. Speed of approach, intensity, tightness of the whirl and listening to the government's weather people. All the colorful amateur dramatics you see on weather channels and websites come from the experts at the National Hurricane Center in Miami. Watch the videos and the colorful graphics for fun but rely on the NHC.
Florida Keys Storm
The final commandment is don't be stupid. Before a storm arrives the blowhards and drunks and partiers will be full of advice and bravery and experience ready to share. When the wind starts to pick up and the time is past for decision making their advice and bravado falls away and you are on your own. Preparation is the most important element of any endeavor and hurricane preparation will allow you to face whatever happens with an inner calm. You may not get it right but you paid attention and did your best. I knew Eta was not a property threatening storm but I put away outside furniture and even though we didn't secure our hurricane shutters we did try to make sure nothing would blow away. I've got good at this because when the threat is serious, typically I get locked down at work and cannot do anything at the last minute as I am not allowed to leave the police station prior to the storm's arrival.
Post Office Key West
Waiting for Hurricane Irma my wife and dog were safe in Pensacola evacuated as soon as the schools closed (hint: leave the Keys as soon as the district closes the schools) so they were gone before everyone else. So when Florida was stalled in a statewide traffic jam, choked in long lines at empty gas stations they were snug and 800 miles away. I had two days at home with everything put away and a hollow feeling in my stomach. We knew the storm was going to be awful and I looked around wondering what it would be like in a week, and it was indeed a terrible time recovering from Hurricane Irma, but prior to its arrival we had done everything we could and there was nothing left to do. I went swimming in the canal, ordered pizza just before they closed, and opened a bottle of wine. Three days went by. My neighborhood was wrecked, I had to flush the police station toilets by hand for a week (don't ask) and my car was destroyed. No regrets as I had done what I could. Oh and Rusty was safe. Very important that!
Florida Keys Storm
Before this little storm arrived someone asked me if they should borrow a friend's upstairs guest unit for the duration. I said I don't think it will be necessary but if you want a good night's rest go for it. Make the decision early, act on it and don't second guess yourself. They chose to leave their ground floor unit and slept there through the light winds and rain of Hurricane Eta. They made the right choice and acted on it and when next I see them they will tell me they slept well. No better way to get through a hurricane of any category.
Key West Hurricane
Pay attention, prepare and be an adult. Easy peasy. Don't refer to storms by gender as their names identify natural events not gonads. Remember, and this is important, government building codes work. Deaths from weather events in developing countries far outnumber deaths in the US. Check out the statistics. We build our buildings right and for the most part wind doesn't blow them down. Hurricanes spawn tornadoes and they are the source of most damage within a broader hurricane.
Hurricanes are ruinous economically but in this country they don't kill, not nearly as much as fires, landslides tornadoes and whatever else. With modern forecasting and excellent communication, strong buildings and lots of planning experience hurricanes are not fearsome. If you plan and think Death is a possibility but it is not likely.
Florida Keys Mile Zero
Years ago I figured out a way to find my comfort zone limits. After a short lifetime, (in my 20s) of being told constantly I was going too far the naysayers led me to ask myself a simple question: What's the worst that could happen? Then I dig into the worst possible outcome. Then I ask myself: How much will I regret that outcome? Then I have my answer so even now (decades later!) when people tell me I'm doing the wrong thing I make my own judgements based on the worst possible outcome. My form of risk assessment. Ever since my failures have left me shrugging, struggling sometimes and an emotional wreck from time to time but that's life!  Hurricanes? Annoying and in this case I've merely lost a weekend off to wind rain and weather I can't stand.
Dog In A Keys Storm
This weekend has reminded me of my weakness and I have to think it through. I hate rain, I don't like being cold and I am fussy about my quota of sunshine. If we are to travel far and wide I need to get over it. This hasn't been a cold weekend but I haven't sweat in three days and I'm wearing a t shirt under my shirt, Lovely, right? Summer is over. My wife is pondering where we are going to store our winter clothes in the van. Wait, what? Winter...clothes...Right. We can't go far and wide without winter clothes. I need to come to grips with this. Thank you Eta for reminding me. Hurricanes are as nothing compared with frostbite. Heaven help me.


___________________________________________________________________

In order that I may not sound like a blow hard myself I should point out I have sat through every storm since the summer of 2004, and most recently that all culminated in the arrival of Hurricane Irma right over my house actually with 140 mph winds. My house survived but there was a great deal of damage. That you may judge my experience for yourself I have laid out some of my writings and photographs from that difficult time:


Hurricane Irma September 2017:











Some photos of my experiences in my most recent storm in 2017. First is the worst damage in Key West which occurred at Willie T's bar on Duval Street, soon fully recovered:


Cudjoe Key

September 2017





Monday, November 9, 2020

Conch Cottages

Houses seen around Margaret Street. 

Hanging out at the market that used to be known as Charlie's Grocery:
Keys Limin'

Key West

Key West

Mask Free Key West

 

Sunday, November 8, 2020

Waiting For Eta

I am hearing from friends and neighbors worried about Tropical Storm Eta currently over Cuba and projected to make landfall over the Lower Keys tonight as a Category One Hurricane. I am not one to minimize storms as I have over the years seen much destruction but this storm seems rather puny if I can allow myself such a characterization.
Florida Keys Storm
Rusty and I walked in town before dawn and there were a few people around, mostly the homeless pretending it was just a rainy morning in Key West. The wind and rain abated for an hour and we wandered unmolested, a good opportunity for my buddy to stretch his legs. I am not indifferent to the homeless in Key West but the shelter is now open 24 hours and from conversations I find most of these characters choose to be "free." It just looks unpleasantly uncomfortable to me. 
Florida Storm
I saw a few self important youngsters hustling around the marina with serious looks creasing their faces. They saw an old tourist and his camera ambling aimlessly with his dog,  but I have to say there are too many boaters who think sitting in one spot on an anchor makes them sailors, a definition that comes into question when weather turns harsh. I wonder what their hurricane plans are and why they haven't had them in place since the day before yesterday?
Predictably the usual downtown streets were looking Venice-like, high tides, winds and inches of rain combine to point out the obvious: there is too much water.
It was a lovely walk, made more so by the fact that nasty weather is all around us and we were walking in a bubble of calm. So, the question then is, should I be worried? Many of my friends and neighbors are heading down that path but let me explain why I'm not, and neither should you be.
Key West Storm
I have taken sensible precautions and those are the usual minimalist preparations for heavy weather. Bring in the outside  furniture, hide the garbage cans, park the car under the carport and then watch my wife plying her water colors while Rusty sleeps in his bed and I flip through my photographs. That's my strategy for dealing with the hurricane as I'm off work on Monday. 
Outside where the weather may be frightful they tell us winds could reach 85 miles per hour in gusts and 75 sustained tonight. They expect widespread flooding trees down and so forth. The official county emergency management PAGE says high schools in Key West, Marathon and Coral Shores are open. So all is ready for this late season hurricane which seems to be chasing it's onw tail on a  very crooked track.

On my drive to work in darkness I came across an accident scene on Sugarloaf Key which was cleaned up by the time i went to work mid morning. All that was left was a few cones and mangled guard rail. You have to wonder how you could crash into the railing with such force. Illness? Distraction? I am reminded of the imbecile who sent me to the hospital. but even on these straight roads, well marked and clear people manage to fail to thread the eye of the needle.




Florida Keys Road
Meanwhile even as the storm approaches there are a few assorted residents who continue to live their lives without fear and some aplomb. My hat is off to them as they seem to share my low key assessment of the weather impacts. We could of course all be quite wrong. 
Overseas Highway
Hurricane season ends November 30th. I can't wait.

Sunday

A few pictures from an early morning walk downtown on my last day off..
Key West
I photograph it far too much but you can see why: St Paul's Church. 
I miss the productions of the Red Barn Theater as well as the Waterfront Playhouse.



Skateboarding illegally on Duval Street. I should have called 911.
We are all naked before God they tell us; some chose to be naked before their neighbors as well.

Decorations at The Bull Bar.


The county courthouse, 500 Whitehead Street.
America voted to make politics boring again and I am very relieved  about that.  Lots of cheering and celebrating by happy unarmed people not threatening anyone.  And the President-Elect offering an olive branch to the people who accused him of being a paedophile. Turning away from dictatorship at the ballot box seems highly American to me. Onwards and upwards. 

The late lamented Sippin' coffee shop on Eaton survives in  an upside down sign left hanging.The Hard Rock Café.