Wednesday, April 14, 2021

Bahia Sunrise

If you get out of bed early enough you too can see the seven o'clock sunrise.
Cool breezes are blowing as usual in the Spring but skies have been cloudy too just like the moisture laden summer months. What makes it fabulous is that I get to walk around behind Rusty, under interesting skies and not all sweaty and wet. 
My work is overwhelming at the moment, endless days of showing up to answer 911 as staffing levels are dropping too low to permit much time off. It happens periodically in Key West but it hasn't been this bad for a decade and I'm 63 now so my resistance to sitting up all day juggling phones calls is less than it was when I was a stripling a mere half century old.
To walk Rusty and enjoy the colors feels like a vacation in and of  itself, a time away, surrounded by silence. 
The van is sitting in the drive waiting for another outing. These days I find myself sitting in it reading a book with the doors thrown open and Rusty sitting outside, like a child in a  tree house pretending I'm somewhere away.
And then there's the reality check: the really nice portapotty I found online has developed a slight leak in the single spot where it could possibly develop a  leak. A new one is in the mail. 
I don't mind dealing with our portable toilet, it's one of the weird quirks of my character that dealing with it doesn't bother me. Dealing with broken stuff is annoying but in this modern life an $80 toilet is easily replaced with a type getting better consumer reviews...so we do. 
I'm not Webb Chiles, an aficionado of ultimate simplicity, and even though my wife thought a model that uses a gussied up bucket might work. I nixed that over her protests on the grounds that it would get tiresome. I am traveling with a woman after all and she will lose patience with too crude of a set up no matter what she says right now. 
It's funny though how life looks so serene and colorful and a modest leak can perform all the functions of a fly in a jar of ointment. I took the toilet fiasco as a reminder that either I have chosen an excessively simple route that might involve breakdowns, or my choice of camping toilet may be inspired inasmuch as there is no plumbing and all can be fixed with no effort and not much expense. I'll bet boating stores in Buenos Aires will sell me portapotties should the need arise at some future date.  I anticipate future breakdowns on the road and might even have to fall back on a bucket in a crisis. My van could accommodate such a downgrade easily.
Meanwhile the world continues to spin, summer approaches and they talk already of an active hurricane season. Of course no one can venture a guess where the hurricanes might go if they even materialize in vast numbers this summer. The Keys could of course be targeted. 
I had nurtured a slight hope I could escape hurricane duty this year after sitting through every single storm since 2004 but our numbers are so few I'm not sure I can be exempted this year. I'd prefer an evacuation in the van with himself and herself into the mountains and let someone else eat Chef Boyardee in the wreckage. Hurricane Irma was quite the appropriate storm to take its's place as my last hurricane experience thank you.
As it is summer will come inevitably and rain and clouds and humidity will follow of course.  I see in Europe there is much excitement about re-opening the continent to summer travel and normal lives. 
I feel lucky to have not been deprived of these views and these walks.
This is where I come to escape work and stress and endless hours immersion in life lived by stress. Without these socially distanced walks I don't know how I would have coped.
Or how he would have coped. As it is he too is enjoyed the cool breezes and the last gasp of high energy before summer's heat locks us down.

Tuesday, April 13, 2021

Signs

It has been a while since I posted a bunch of signs but in case you need reminding how small the streets are, how little parking there is and how much neighbors can annoy each other take a look:













Monday, April 12, 2021

Mangrove Walk

Twenty minutes from home where my wife was Zoom teaching and we were far away and out of hearing. Rusty and I had the woods to ourselves.

There was humidity in the air, which produced summer-like clouds overhead and I love looking at those through my camera lens.  

The wind was out of the west, a harbinger of a north wind and cooler temperatures, and the sun came and went which opened and closed piles of white puffy clouds overhead.



It looked just like summer and it was starting to feel like it.

Imagine standing there in silence, a panting hot dog sitting in mud thickened water. Clouds moving overhead changing shape creating changing shadows on the ground. Miles from people and viruses and 911 calls. I felt liberated.

Spring break is back and its taking its toll even as hotels are full and bars are doing a roaring trade. Lost identity papers, broken relationships, disappearing lovers, every day the stress of being young and intense is brought home to this old man. Every year we have to listen to tearful tales and send the rozzers out to fix the losses and at the end of six week every single employee is screaming for peace and quite, just for a little bit.

I find my refuge out here among the buttonwoods and spiny thorns and big green seagrape leaves. A walk, some reading, a cup of tea, a nap, a van gives it all to you. Home away from home before it becomes home next year.

When we can drive further I'm looking forward to different scenery and lots of variety but I've learned to find colors and shapes in things as simple as mangroves and buttonwoods. Its good practice.

Look at that sinuous trunk whirling its way into the heavens...

It was hot and Rusty slipped down into the mud a couple of times to cool off. I would have rather unzipped him but he wasn't having any of that so he got muddy instead to cool off inside his fur coat.

I may have walked him too far in my pursuit of pictures. He was fine really, but sometimes he's like a child, tired but unwilling to hang it up for the day. The large bowl of cold water (thank you GANNET2) was a much appreciated reward. For him, for me I finished my cold tea. 

A successful morning out on a small van trip, a reminder of what is to come. One more Spring Break, just one more.

Sunday, April 11, 2021

The Other Key West


Florida Keys History: African-American Landmarks & Sites




Florida Keys history is rich and diverse, with African American landmarks and legacies in various locations throughout the state. The following historical sites can be found in Monroe County. While some of these sites can be visited, other listings are marked "private" and are not open to the public.
Historical Sites in Key West
Bahama Village



Bordered by Whitehead, Louisa, Fort and Angela Streets Key West’s Bahama Village is a time capsule of unique residences, businesses, churches and community centers that were built during the 1800s when several hundred free blacks came from the Bahamas along with white Bahamian (English) settlers. Homes were built on land owned by John Simonton, William Whitehead, and John Fleming. Bahama Village was part of the original platted section of what is now downtown Key West. It's a great stop to experience Bahamian culture.
Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church



223 Truman Avenue
The original church building was first established in 1878, in the 700 block of Duval Street. The Ku Klux Klan was rumored to be the culprit when it burned down in 1922. Reconstruction began in 1923. It's an important stop on a tour of Florida Keys history.
Bill Butler Park



Poorhouse Lane near the City Cemetery
This was the site of the county’s home for indigent senior citizens, also known as Monroe County Colored Folks Home. In 1986 the City created a park to honor the memory of William “Bill” Butler, a musician and founding father of the Key West Junkanoos and member of the Welter’s Coronet Band. The park is the site of the New Year’s morning Junkanoo Parade, a celebration with African roots which began in the Bahamas in the 17th century to preserve African cultural traditions in danger of being lost in the displacement process of the slave trade.
The Church of God of Prophecy



815 Elizabeth Street
Constructed in the late 1920s, this building began as an 800-square-foot family dwelling. Brother Kemp, a black Bahamian, and his protégé, John Bruce Knowles, Sr., remodeled it. This church was also called the “Jumper Church.”

The Community Pool at the Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., Memorial Community Center



300 Catherine Street
The City of Key West built this pool for African Americans in 1946, when Key West beaches were segregated.

Cornish Memorial African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church



702 Whitehead Street
This wood-frame, Gothic Revival structure is the oldest AME Zion church in Florida. Built in 1903, it is named in honor of Sandy Cornish, an early Bahamian immigrant who founded the congregation.

Higgs Beach Historic Marker



Atlantic Boulevard
In 1860, African men, women and children being transported to Cuba on three American-owned ships, to be sold into slavery, were rescued by the U.S. Navy and brought to Key West. Local authorities took responsibility for the Africans while in Key West. While some returned to Africa, 294 were too ill to make the journey and died. They were buried in a mass grave on Higgs Beach where West Martello Tower now stands.

Key West Cemetery



Frank E. Adams, a black man, was the first law-enforcement officer in the Keys to be killed in the line of duty. Adams carried a gun and a badge as a Deputy Sheriff when few blacks in the nation held such jobs. Adams died on October 7, 1901, and was buried the next day. The location of his grave remained a mystery until it was discovered that Adams was not buried in the traditional black section of the cemetery because he was Catholic.

Nelson English Park



Corner of Thomas and Amelia Streets
Located in Bahama Village, this park is named for the African American civic leader who was the island’s postmaster from 1882 to 1886.

St. James First Missionary Baptist Church

312 Olivia Street
This church was founded in 1876 by freed blacks from Georgia, Alabama and North Florida who had come to the Keys to work on Henry Flagler’s railroad. Today’s masonry building is built around the wood original.

St. Peter’s Episcopal Church



800 Center Street
St. Peter’s is the oldest black Anglican Church in the Diocese of South Florida. It was designed and built in 1923 by Joseph Hannibal, a Key West native and son of Shadrack Hannibal, a runaway slave. The church was founded in 1875. A hurricane blew down the original building.

Trinity Presbyterian Street



717 Simonton Street
Served by ministers from the Bahamas on a quarterly basis until 1895, Trinity English Wesleylan Methodist Church was then accepted in the St. John’s Presbytery, and its name changed to Trinity Presbyterian. Established by both black and white Bahamians, the congregation was truly integrated, with no designated seating.

Trinity Wesleyan Methodist Church



619 Petronia Street
Trinity Wesleyan Methodist Church began when the congregation sought to join the U.S Presbyterian denomination because English ministers stopped coming from the Bahamas to serve Trinity, then the only English Wesleyan Methodist Church in America. George Allen, Sr., became an ordained pastor, and all pastors since have come from within the Allen Family. As a result, Trinity is informally known as Reverend Allen’s Church or the Allen Family Church.

Truman Little White House



111 Front Street
At the “Little White House,” on December 3, 1951, President Harry S. Truman, wrote the fourth Executive Order establishing the Committee on Government Contract Compliance to secure better compliance by contractors and subcontractors with laws that forbade discrimination because of race, creed, color or national origin. Truman announced the Executive Order to the press from the steps of this building. It's a significant part of Florida Keys history.

V.F.W. American Legion Hall



803 Emma Street
Architect and County Mayor C.B. Harvey donated plans for the building. Also known as the Black Town Hall, the building was constructed in 1951 by its members. The hall is named to commemorate blacks killed in World War I (William Weech American Legion Post) and World War II (Walter Mickens V.F.W. Post 6021).
Photos from my own archive to illustrate this Visit Florida article.