Tuesday, November 21, 2023

Floods In Granada

Our plan called for a morning of sightseeing and an afternoon drive around Lake Nicaragua to the distant border post with Costa Rica called San Pancho (Saint Frank). To start the day we left San Jorge near Rivas and drove north a couple of hours toward Masaya Volcano. It’s alive and active and you drive up to near the rim and walk over and look down I was there 25 years ago but it seemed time to revisit it. Except..

It was air foggy we could see nothing and it was raining up the mountain so we turned around and contemplated lunch in Granada. 

That rain I mentioned in Masaya turned out to be sheets of water in the outskirts of Granada and we were in a line of traffic that wasn’t stopping. 

They just pretended it was normal and kept on going requiring me to keep driving too lest I lose my never and stop and cause an unholy mess in this apocalyptic flood. I just hoped GANNET2 could handle it. 

Of course she could. I tried to drive here the car in front went hoping not to fall into a vast bottomless pothole. We did fine pushing a brown bow wave as we went. 

Eventually I spotted a raised supermarket parking lot and as we needed paper towels we took refuge there and made tea and sandwiches for breakfast as the rain sluiced our tin home mercilessly. 

A Google Maps recommended street below, that we graciously declined and forced the blue line on my iPhone to re-route: 

Granada was the center of conservative politics in Nicaragua in the 19th century aisles with Leon, the liberal hub, for supremacy. Nicaraguans got fed up eventually and made Managua the compromise choice, a dreary city of no merit that was further wrecked almost completely by an earthquake in 1972. 

Granada could be beautiful but it is rather rundown. It is a tourist hub and consequently attracts all manner of touts and salesmen and beggars who hound you in the public places. It has a description at night and is not much given to street parking. 

There is a campground in town created out of a secure parking lot but we didn’t stay long enough  to consider spending a night.
Granada needs a lick of paint and some care though considering the day we were there it didn’t get the benefit of some  sparkling sunshine. 





He wanted to wash our van in the rain. He seemed hopeless so we wished him well with a few dollars. 

Granada sits on the shores of the lake and has a rather formless waterfront.

I am thinking of adopting the Central American fashion of rolling up my shirt on particularly hot sultry days. 











Lake Nicaragua, the waterfront piece city looked rather dirty and muddy.

We were not tempted to stop and swim. 

And then we were out in the country ready to explore the mysterious eastern side of the lake. I figured most of the country would look like this but I was entirely wrong. 

We didn’t see the lake again but we got to see much more of this road than we ever intended.

Monday, November 20, 2023

Nicaragua Photos


A collection of photos from the past two weeks in Nicaragua. 





It looked to me like Che Guevara, a revered figure in revolutionary Nicaragua. 

Rusty guarding us at lunch: 



The Toyota Hilux is a popular pick up around the world especially in countries with crappy roads. Every other car in Nicaragua seems to be a Hilux. 
More Hilux pick ups lined up for sale: 















A narrow bridge. Very narrow. 

A cellphone and an ox cart naturally. 

Augusto Sandino was killed by US forces in Nicaragua in 1933. His revolutionary spirit gives its name to the governing party in Nicaragua -Frente Sandinista. 

I went to the highest town in Nicaragua (3500 feet) for a particular reason. Father Odorico D’Andrea spent four decades in the town organizing the construction of schools hospitals and bridges, bringing the community electricity and clean water. He came here from
the village I grew up in in Italy where he was the parish priest in 1952 before I was born. I sent back some pictures of the church dedicated to his memory for those who remember him. 

He negotiated a local peace treaty between Sandinista rebels and government soldiers before he died aged 74 of a heart attack in 1990. His good works have been noticed by the Vatican and the Franciscan friar is now on the path to sainthood. 

He is almost forgotten in his former parish in Italy but not around here. 









80 year old IFA water tanker or German World War Two origin: 

From our night parked in the fire department parking lot in Matagalpa.





This is a Soviet era car still running in Nicaragua. You’ll see a few of these types of vehicles from the time Nicaragua was at loggerheads with the US and got Cold War support from the Soviet Union. 





I’ve never seen a school bus rear door in use in the US. 







Firewood. This is a poor country. 



Hilux! They are everywhere I tell you. 

Rusty likes grass. He’s not ill, he’s always chewed grass and around here in rainy season he has his choice. 

One massive aggression for overlanders traveling Latin America are these stupid roofs over gates. They are decorative only but if you have a vehicle with any pretensions to height you just can’t get in. Grrr. 







Lunch: gallo pinto (rice and red beans) link sausages and cheese and a flour tortilla. 



Some side roads are less easy than others especially in rainy season. 







Beach refuge for a few days before Costa Rica.