Thursday, September 19, 2024

Driving Up The Keys

I spent my last day in Florida in the car, I said goodbye to Key West with a coffee and sandwich at Kim’s Kuban on North Roosevelt, 

…and meandered my way out of town, and I was sorry to be going so soon. There is always some nostalgia for me in thinking about the place that has come nearest to being home for me in a life spent traveling. I like Key West and I’m grateful to the city for giving me a place to call home even if I can’t afford to live in a town that keeps creating more limitations in an effort to cope with its popularity. 

Indeed it seemed sensible to drive north early for a late night flight on Saturday as Highway One on the weekend could easily suffer any kind of road closure or accident. I remember when Walmart threatened to show up here and I was certain the garden center wouldn’t survive. Happily I was wrong:

This relic of a bygone age has survived too, always there when I rode in to work of an evening for night shift:

And this restaurant that I never seem to see open. I used to meet a friend here for lunch quite often but only when Robert met me there did I find it open. Weird that. 

I remember too the NIMBY fuss residents made in Big Coppitt when Habitat proposed building a few stilt homes for low income people.  The homes got built and there they are and Big Coppitt is none the worse for them. 

The Circle K used to be open  twenty four hours before Hurricane Irma landed in 2017. I used to stop there sometimes to take a break in the middle of the night when I worked a half shift on overtime. Two o’clock in the morning on warm tropical nights and no traffic on the highway, just me and my Bonneville motorcycle. 

I took my Cuban sandwich and coffee to the beach at Boca Chica next to the Naval Air Station runway. 



Irma did a number down here but the trees have grown back and it’s a nice place to admire the water which is too shallow for swimming. People living in their cars spend days here too, moved along at night as sleeping isn’t allowed of course. 

Suburban living in Tamarac Park. 



And the Highway One launch ramp flooded of course. 

Key Deer habitat extends to within 17 miles of Key West on Sugarloaf Key so they are doing well it seems. 

Rusty and I used to come down here quite a bit on old State Road 939 past the Sugarloaf KOA, now a spiffy hotel and campground resort built up after Hurricane Irma.

The owner of a large estate at the end of the road used to go ballistic if people parked where the signs say “no motorized vehicles” so they started a campaign to block the turning area. I never parked down there anyway and Rusty and I would walk past the angry man’s mansion wondering at how much stress it takes to live like that. Nothing much has changed, at least outwardly except the rocks are bigger. 

Fat Albert still monitoring the skies and waters toward Cuba. 

And the end of Blimp Road on Cudjoe at the boat ramp near Fat Albert is also pretty damp this time of year. 

Our old house off Spanish Main used to be all pepto bismol pink and the new owners are seeking a more tasteful gray and white look. 





The old Bahia Honda Bridge is doing a titanic and is crumbling steadily into the salt water and it’s a shame. Inevitable I suppose but there it is. I drove across it on my Vespa the first time I visited Key West. 

Seven Mile Bridge fishing. 



The new adult education building in Marathon was promised after Hurricane Irma and in a fine sense of ironic timing it was opened on Layne’s last day of teaching before she retired. It’s a lovely corner of the public library and is quite different from her warehouse classroom she used to teach in at the high school. 

I had decided to spend my afternoon in the Everglades so I stopped in Florida City at my favorite fruit stand. 



A strawberry milk shake to fortify me for a potentially wet afternoon in South Florida’s swamps. 

It didn’t look promising but fortune does favor the bold and my rented Nissan Sentra had excellent windshield wipers. 



Wednesday, September 18, 2024

Key West Wandering

I was hoping for a splendid sunrise but it wasn’t. Riviera at 11th wasn’t getting unflooded soon so I had to make a u-turn.  
This was my second day back in Key West from Peru. I had my drivers license renewed till 2032 and my paid up van registration till 2026 so I was off duty. The workers were out getting coffee first thing: 
Elections are coming and this corner is always full of names: 
I stopped by Sandy’s on White Street for breakfast and a free weekly paper. It’s fun being a tourist in Key West. 
Virginia Street as the sun came up. 
The fire museum at Grinnell. 
Petronia Street no longer dead ends into a soccer field as long sought affordable housing is going up in Bahama Village. 
The chickens are still around but…
…this is becoming canyon country. 
Truman Waterfront was looking green and lush and me the tourist enjoyed wandering around. 


The museum ship Ingham. I’ve taken a walk through and enjoyed it. 
This was my post on it: 

Sunset Key across the water: 

The Truman Annex property owners once tried to close this public street. The city was ready to fold but the Navy stepped in and said no way. The Navy won and the public street stayed public. 
My friends complain loudly about golf cart rentals in winter as they are slow and block traffic. 
An actual coastguard cutter returning from patrol and not a museum:
Flooding at Simonton and Front. Nice high tides. 
Key West Bight: 

The recording studio of course:
Schooner Wharf Bar: 
It looks old enough to be a Captain Outrageous creation. I took the 911 call when he died and I never really forgot it. I liked his story of a change of life from businessman to artist in Key West and I was sorry there was nothing to be done to keep him alive. 

Getting ready to take a boat trip somewhere: 
The salt air is taking its toll on the Waterfront Brewery porch. That building used to be a grocery store when I first lived in Key West. 
Enjoying chickens on the waterfront. 
The Galleon Resort across the water. 

New owners made the Turtle Kraals name a place now not a restaurant.
Cuban Joe’s marine hardware store is still in business. 
I used to work behind the roll up door in the shipping department of Fast Buck Freddie’s. We received and unpacked the stock in that warehouse. How I ended up there I don’t remember but I was waiting to be hired at the police department. 
Buddy Owens fish restaurant chugging along on Caroline Street. 

Doug Bennett the resilient downtown survivor. It was great chatting with him. 
Doug has made a great life for himself in Key West. I tried to follow his example. 


A family from Bangladesh ran a convenience store here and the people who hung around  here called it the A-rab store when they rang 911. They hung out here and drank and made a mess of their lives from time to time and I had to send help to the A-rab store. I thought the owners of the store were incredibly patient with the “colorful” waterfront rats. They’re all gone now. 
I’m told Kermit’s has been sold and Layne wanted hard candies but they don’t make them anymore. That’s gone too apparently. Oh well. 
Sonny McCoy was mayor once and made headlines water skiing to Cuba. Lest we forget. 

It’s a bit odd remembering people who got their names inscribed in public. It’s a mark of old age I think. 

The Bocce Court. 

Rest Beach where they used to slaughter cattle shipped to the city from Stock Island in the good old days before roads bridges cars and Publix. 

The Aids Memorial. 









I don’t think cruising around Key West aboard GANNET2 is going to be so free and easy anymore. The millionaires are quite fussy. 


This used to be an open field used as a dog park on Trumbo Road. Now it’s first responder housing. 
With nice water views. 
My dentist, an inveterate traveler became my friend. I dropped in on Claude and we talked travel until time ran out. 

I had a grand time chatting with dispatchers and cops at my workplace. 

They offered me my job back but I like being retired too much. 

I found one small change I really liked.  The entrance to the Overseas Market shopping center now has a traffic circle making it so much easier to get in and out. So modern and I was shocked. 
The Salvation Army on Flagler sold me a suitcase to haul my loot back to Arequipa. 
And on my way out of town I got to spot the fried chicken capital of Stock Island, the marker that says you’re going north.