Monday, April 21, 2025

Driving South To Go North

We spent a slightly bizarre Good Friday night in the campground at Cafayate with amplified and endless religious celebrations.
It was one of those cultural moments where you sit back and let the locals get on with it as it wasn’t a public celebration similar to carnival but it was a local intimate celebration of a faith we none of us shared. 
Saturday morning we got on the road, Ruta 40 to be precise to drive south toward our planned border crossing. The solid liberated route we’ve covered already, while the fat finger dashes show our proposed route toward the border with Chile. 
Julia and Konstantin went ahead in their Sprinter and we leap frogged occasionally when they stopped for coffee or I stopped to walk Rusty and go water the mesquite shrubs. When we travel with other overlanders we select an end point and agree to meet there, rather than try to travel together with our different vehicles and driving styles. 
We passed this Argentine cyclist and no I don’t know what his story is but I liked the flying frying pan. 
Wineries and motorcyclists were the mark of a holiday weekend. 
These section of the highway had crap asphalt all patched and rough and then on top of that there were numerous badens which is what they call fords. And some of them had water. 
Not my idea of fun in rainy season.  
We picked up a hitch hiker for thirty miles and helped him on his way. Marcelo is Brazilian from São (“San”) Paulo and is hitching his way to Ushuaia when it’s freezing cold down there. 
Argentina’s historic Ruta 40 with better asphalt. 


Another mysterious cyclist, a policewoman either on patrol or commuting. 
Police checkpoint ahead is the sign. Not all of them are staffed and one that was just waved us through. No bribery corruption or hassles. 
We flashed past some weird shrine. 
And the threat of falling rocks.  
And more of those accursed badens. 


Some people have money. 
Wine country. 74 degrees but it felt hotter and we were hovering between seven and five thousand feet. We actually drove with the a/c for a while as the air felt oddly humid and close. 
Oh and there was a mile of dirt road just because this is Ruta 40. Apparently they built a lovely brand new bridge but ran out of money to pave the connecting road. Stupid stuff common in Argentina. 
Fruit and vegetables for sale: 
More badens. 
And locals. 
Once again the wide desert valley was not what I had expected. On the map I saw the road coasting alongside the river and I expected more greenery and farming. 
Pretty desolate. 

One more mad cyclist in the middle of the abomination of desolation. 







When we finally did get into a canyon it was cold, 59 degrees, windy and drizzly. “Back in Patagonia,” said a disgruntled Julia. 
Wild camping not far from the highway but a long way from noisy Easter celebrations. 
I spotted a fox patrolling along the river. Rusty was distracted happily. 
The Belen River leading to the town of Belen (“Bethlehem” in Spanish). 
Konstantin and Julia had meat to grill so lacking a fixed structure they borrowed our Scotti portable grill and we feasted on meat and salad and pasta. We none of us had had lunch so we were ready to eat and forget to take photographs. Sorry. 

Rusty got his not to worry. 
The grill before I forgot to take pictures: 
Konstantin found passion fruit Snickers candy bars in Brazil and gave us this one to try. 
Chocolate with an aftertaste of passion fruit. Delicious and I’ll be looking for this when we get to Brazil. 
In light of the forgotten photography I close with this file photo of Konstantin and  Julia, great cooks and great company. 
It was a good day. 

Sunday, April 20, 2025

Rock Exploration

Julia and Konstantin drove straight across Argentina from Paraguay to meet up with us a total of 1600 miles in four days and not on US freeways. So we didn’t rush out of bed on Good Friday morning. 
Good Friday is a big holiday in South America and it also creates a long weekend so everybody and his brother was stopped along Highway 68. 
We could have stayed at our lovely if slightly dusty wild camp but Konstantin was overdue for a shave and wanted copious hot running water. It was a bad decision but we got on the road among the eccentrics du jour: 
Konstantin wanted to stop at a spot called Las Ventanas - the windows. 
It was pretty but we didn’t see any windows. 



Distant people on distant peaks. 
Konstantin agreed this looked like the desert Southwest complete with mesquite bushes. And a dog. 




In the US this would be a national park, possibly without rangers these days but most likely with an entrance fee. In Argentina you just park and wander around. No handrails or safety warning. 



Following Rusty who was having a really good time I spotted one window. 

People were everywhere. This is definitely a holiday weekend. 





The woman below was an Australian tourist traveling with an Uruguayan. To our astonishment they spoke English. This really is a holiday weekend, people are here from everywhere.

Mesquite (I think). 

We really like living in our van. 

We also like the white torrentés wine from this high altitude region.

So we stopped to buy more. It took us all day to drive 35 miles. 

Konstantin got a couple of bottles too. 

Then we stopped to buy gas. They were out of regular of course so we filled our tank with expensive premium. The gods must love us. At least there was no line at the gas station. 

The guy in front of us was driving an older French car which required opening the hood to fill it with gas. At first I thought he had mechs I am problems but no, he filled up and closed the hood and drove away. Just another odd moment on the road. 

Cafayate is located on historic Ruta 40 but we didn’t drive it north of town. It’s known for its crappy gravel surface,  80 miles of it before you reach asphalt. It’s so awful there is a warning on iOverlander about it. We were happy to have taken Highway 68 with its asphalt. 

The streets of Cafayate will be packed for the weekend but we will be on our way south. 

We did stop for lunch at the curiously named Black Tote restaurant. 

They make parillada which is grilled meat and you order it by the truckload. 

It was a huge room filled with families celebrating being together. The atmosphere reminded me of El Siboney on Stock Island, Cuban food for the masses.  

Bread and sauces while we waited. 

And here came the main event. It included liver and blood sausage and cow intestine which we reserved for Rusty. The intestine I have come to like but in Chile they crisp it and it tastes like pork belly. Here they fill it with something mushy and pungent that does not add to the flavor. We both passed.  

Lots of ribs and steak to wade through and it was tender and flavorful. Oh and dessert. I had fruit cheesecake. 

Layne had a truly brilliant chocolate dessert. It was excellent. 

Back into the clogged street to the campground. 

Konstantin gave us two of their Bolivia fuel jugs they no longer need. We want some extra fuel to get across the border through the Andes. Our planned route will follow three hundred miles of road, some gravel, up to 15,800 feet with no fuel. We figure a little extra will give us peace of mind. 

2005 Dodge Sprinter. The roof rack was designed and built by Konstantin the handy man.