Monday, November 16, 2009

End Of Duval

Let me say it straight up: this is not my environment. I wanted to check out the end of Duval Street nearest the harbor but try as I might I didn't enjoy this block of the street.There is nothing residential down here, there isn't much greenery and of beauty, the eye of this beholder sees not much at all. There is a pharmacy though, if you need pharmaceutical thing while busy getting drunk.This is dust catcher heaven and I watched these visitors poring over various knick knacks, doubtless imported from the Mysterious Orient for their pleasure.Every fifth male of my generation is called Michael, so I am ready to bet good money there is one with my name on it......so if I ever feel the need to have a sea shell with my name on it catching motes of dust in my small home, this is where I will be sure to come to pump up the Key West economy:Duval Street is labelled in a potentially confusing way. This is the North end of the street, called Lower Duval because the numbers are lower here than they are at the south end of the street which is called Upper Duval.On the left there we see the imposing bulk of Zero Duval, Ocean Key House:This isn't actually a recreation of Check Point Charlie in the Berlin Wall. This is the entrance to the parking lot at the Pier House, Number One Duval Street:
You might come here to park a car on your way to the spa, or the beach bar and that's what you'd tell the attendant. You would also pass these old cement structures, left over from the days when the Key West Harbor waterfront was devoted to sailing ships and the movement of goods as well as people.Nowadays it's all about moving people which is probably a much easier way to make a living than sailing cargo around the coast. It's a lot less romantic to someone who earns his living in the air conditioned comfort of the police station. I don't actually miss my former job as boat captain.I was hoping for enlightenment and a point of view, about how the city makes it's money, but I could stand here and snap pictures till the cows come home and I would be no closer to a conclusion. A few years ago everyone was up in arms about Key West selling it's heritage to cruise ships and tour buses and developers and I wondered how it would be if the money spigot dried up. Now it has, for a lot of people, and the chance for the rest to make small fortune is evaporating fast. Yet the city still depends totally on tourism to supplement the steady income from the military, which fortunately shows no signs of disappearing. The last time the military pulled back left the city in ruins.I don't really understand mass tourism. I love to travel but my idea of making a journey is to see things, learn things and expand my comfort zone. I find it astonishing people keep coming back to Key West, and I am grateful for their constancy. Working for the city isn't as close to the tourist cash as working as a boat captain but the net result is the same. Without the visitor there is no salary. Beyond that rather base motive there is also the curiosity of trying to understand the phenomenon of repeat tourism, and the pleasure of living in a place that is a mirage of a pleasure palace that can be experienced only for a few short days each year.Of course Key West as pleasure palace wears a bit thin for people paying through the nose to live in the city, and that "island time" fantasy makes no sense to people rushing between multiple jobs and family obligations. Key West has always been trapped between fantasy and reality, ever since the Works Progress Administration decided to try tourism to revive the bankrupt city. The plan worked fabulously but Key West has had to reconcile being a romantic island with being in the business of being in business. Tourism always seems to provoke this dichotomy, but Key West's geographic isolation makes the situation that much more complex. When I lived in a mainland tourist town I had almost no contact with visitors. They had their routes to the beach and I had my tourist-free destinations in and around town. In Key West not only is that difficult to accomplish in such a small space, it is made more complex because being a local is a desired status. Most visitors desire contact with locals to go where locals go and eat where they eat.I asked once on a forum why people fascinated with key West don't just move here and the responses were the predictable mixture of family and job obligations, low pay, high cost of living and so forth. I was forced to the conclusion that Key west is better as a dream and a fantasy escape from real life than as real life itself. For some people this is the end of the road, and if they land up here with no money and no prospects, that's okay too. They take a seat, cadge spare change and watch the world go by. My mid-year resolution was to help struggling tourists trying to find their way on the streets, and to keep my impatience in check with the erratic winter driving and keep reminding myself that living here is a choice, not a dream killer. I would probably never visit Key West if I stopped living here. The tourist destinations bore me, and the fault lies, I believe, in me not in them. Lower Duval is for visitors and they certainly seem to enjoy it.

8 comments:

Abel Pharmboy said...

I totally understand where you're coming from. It's kind of depressing watching everyone get drunk when they could be doing it much more cheaply somewhere else and when there is so much to see and experience in nature. I'm a big booster of the Key West Tropical Forest and Botanical Garden and I could spend days talking about natural habitat or kayaking around the Keys. It's also great to see the arts scene expand or even just go out to Stock Island and watch the shrimpers come in.

There's a lot more down there that most tourists don't see. So, I really appreciate all the hard work you put into this blog to help me stay in touch down there!

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Conch:

As it ever is with genuine tourist communities that sit on the threshhold of natural beauty and splendor, there are the places for the tourists and the refuges for the residents.

I love to drive/ride on vacation, but escape is my primary motivation for travel. Stiffie (Leslie) and I have been batting around the idea of renting a house on Moneghan Island in Maine for a week.

There is no electricity on the island, hence no TV, cable, computers, cell phones nor other bullshit. Houses are illuminated with kerosine or gas. The island is about 15/20 miles off shore and the entertainment is the resident artists community.

Even swimming on this island presents problems, as it can only be done safely at the boat landing. Signs on the rest of the island advise, "You will drown if you fall or go into the water. Currents are vicious and no one is coming to help you."

I think it would be wonderful to go to a place like this to just read and think for a week. But I would come to Duval Street to raise hell for a week afterward.

Fondest regards,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads

Conchscooter said...

"...There's a lot more down there that most tourists don't see...." There's so much of that I am astonished Key West has the reputation it has sometimes. Of course riepe raising hell would attract tourists too. Perhaps he could flip an electric car like someone did last night (DUI jail not ER. God looks after drunks and fools).

cpa3485 said...

In Kansas, tourism dollars are pretty scarce, but for some reason we keep trying. Maybe because if it happens, it can be easy dollars. What we end up trying to do is to have conventions here and compete with other cities for those dollars. Sometimes, success, many times, not.
When we go on vacations, we might head for a touristy area like the Black Hills of South Dakota or Colorado ski resort areas, but we tend to stay away from real touristy activities. Hiking or sightseeing off the beaten path are more fun for us. I'd love to see Key West someday, but Duval Street sounds like an area we might only briefly visit.

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

Flipped an electric car? Wow.

I agree about more to offer than "Debauchery on Duval" (I wonder if there is a T-shirt with that on it). That said, I have a great book, Kayaking the Flordia Keys, that I will recommend.

But the history, architecture, and water all within walking distance. It is only 2x5 miles after all.

Anonymous said...

Key West has always been a 2-3 night weekend get away kind of place for me. My favorite pastime is to walk the streets of old town in the evening or early morning.

If you ever left KW you might find it hard to stay way from the beautiful lanes and paths your camera captures so well.

Unknown said...

Mr Conchscooter:

We also stay away from tourist areas but there is facination with visiting a place on the opposite ends of the continent after riding on a long bridge with monotomous views of the ocean to snap a picture of those forbidden islands just south. There are Lower Duvals all over the world and it would not be my main reason for visiting.

And Jack "r", we have a place here similiar to your Moneghan Island. Lasqueti Island

http://www.lasqueti.ca/island-info

No electricity, No paved roads, No transportation.

bob
bobskoot: wet coast scootin

Karen Lambert said...

I so agree....even though we came to Key West as "tourists", the tourist spots were not where we spent our time. The only time we actually spent on Duval was when we came to watch the Sunset at Mallory Square. The drinking and shopping was not the attraction. Exploring the streets of Key West and the other Keys and the walks on the beaches and nature preserves were our main attraction. I guess that is why we enjoy your blog so much. We get to see the real Key West and not that facade that is there for tourists.