I fear the photograph, if not the title gives the game away: we are in range of WiFi and now Noa the owner has yielded the password, so we are unstoppable. From wandering souls lost in the wilderness we have come to roost lime proper RVers at a campground and for $20 (400 pesos) a night we are doing all right thanks.
A quick walk around the premises, the toilets the hot shower, the pool, the beach access and we settled in yesterday afternoon.There are a few other vehicles in the campground including one yapping ankle biter on a leash which gives it the security to test Rusty's nerves. He's an old hand by now used to Mexican street dogs and he stays aloof from this pampered gringo dog as befits an old hand on the travel circuit. The Germans and Canadians haven't shown up yet and we have our own agenda anyway for the next couple of days. Make and mend, laundry and an a thorough clean of ourselves and Gannet2. We left our campground above the beach after we had swum in the cold Pacific Ocean and taken a cold fresh water shower under a hot sun. We packed the camp, which in our case doesn't take much and set off to seek out lunch in town a few minutes away. Our target was a fish restaurant on the beach overlooking the very boats that were bringing in our lunch. The cook was busy sorting the catch and we sat around and waited for a while as the kitchen got organized.We waited a while in classic Mexican style with menus, no drinks and no chips or anything. Rusty took off for a wander and checked out the perimeter as usual wandering down the street, circling Gannet 2 as well as checking out Ron's Ford F350. He has got so comfortable being on his own I feel like a proud parent watching my kid go off to school.He handles the local dogs without any drama and he fits in like he's been in Mexico all his life.I saw one local dog looking hopeful and there was no way I was going to enjoy lunch with her going hungry. I got our bag of street dog food out the back of the van. She had as much as she could eat and went back to lay out in the sun. Later she got tortillas and chicken strips before wandering off to find her equally desiccated owner. Most street dogs have homes and not all are hungry but non e are as well fed as one would like. Unfortunately that goes for a lot of Mexicans as well.Our former street dog has got used to me handing out munificence and he watches with tolerant disdain. I just have to be careful not to show affection for the Mexican runts. He ignored the handouts. To me this is freedom, my dog wandering and sleeping under the table no hassles no leashes no drama. It is one of the most appealing parts of Mexican daily life to me the outsider.It started out one way and ended up the other. There was no chance it wouldn't be delicious.
In the end we had to say goodbye to Ron who as driving to Mazatlan for the night before pressing on to see friends in Puerto Vallarta. We had a reseferation at the Celeste RV Park near La Cruz, 30 minutes north of Barras.
In the end we had to say goodbye to Ron who as driving to Mazatlan for the night before pressing on to see friends in Puerto Vallarta. We had a reseferation at the Celeste RV Park near La Cruz, 30 minutes north of Barras.
We knew it was the right thing to leave the lovely spot not least because the weekend was upon us and already there were cars and SUVs coming into town bearing well dressed people from the city. Our private beach would be ours no longer.The road out of Barras de Piaxtla was still a mess of course!The hurricane this last summer washed the paved road away and pushed the guardrail into the bushes. A little gravel helps but staying awake is the most important driver's aid along these few miles.We knew this was the state of the road so it was no surprise but it is still breathtaking how much wreckage is left to sort itself out. This is the paradox of Mexico, when things go wrong you sort yourself out, you cope, you make it work. If you screw up you have no one to blame but yourself. To me it represents the ultimate combination of safety, self reliance and taking responsibility for yourself. If you are an impoverished peasant there's no use complaining and if you aren't in apposition of power it will get repaired when its repaired. It's not fair but it's what you have to accept and learn to deal with as an outsider.Google maps shows the back road joining the Highway 15D toll road and you'd expect a merge lane etc...not a bit of it! The dirt road just shows up and you point your car down the shoulder and get on with the business of merging. Its slightly disconcerting until you get used to it.
We had to cross the bridge to get to the other side of the freeway. Not fancy but it works!And from the overpass we got a splendid view:We stopped in little town before we reached the campsite and loaded up with drinking water, 20 gallons for $1:80 which we phoned into the tank in the by now usual way using a hose. Bruce in Arizona gave me the idea and we thank him every time we load water as it's so easy to watch gravity suck 40 pounds of water into the tank. Layne went shopping and I fed another street dog. This time I got yelled at because the dog had wandered to the wrong side of the street and was eating on the "wrong side." The dude screamed at the dog and walked off with my bag of dog food. I was slightly pissed off and I chased after him asking him if he'd paid for the dog food. he looked startled and said no and I said that's because I bought it and where did you put it? He handed it over and I went back to loading water in high dudgeon. If he didn't want the dog around fair enough but to walk off with my food was a bit much! Layne came back from the supermarket with two bags filled with $15 dollars of food and we were ready to kick back for the weekend.
The road to the campsite hadn't changed since we tried to stop there a few days ago, all packed sand and wilderness!There may have been a tope (speed bump) out there but it was indistinguishable from all the other bumps. In Spanish "tope" is pronounced "tow-pay" but when either of su sees one we shout out "Tope" in the English way to make sure we slow down in time. They are a menace to all drivers and the best way to spot then is to watch what other drivers are doing. Sudden brake lights rise the cry of "Tope!" aboard Gannet2.
I can't imagine driving these roads after some rain but when dry they are entirely manageable though we go less than twenty miles an hour to preserve the contents of our home.An actual RV park for a couple of days. WiFi, a pool, restaurant delivery (!), easy beach access, no close neighbors, electricity and so on and so forth. Oh yes, there's the laundry, Layne's delight. We are snug for the weekend.
The road to the campsite hadn't changed since we tried to stop there a few days ago, all packed sand and wilderness!There may have been a tope (speed bump) out there but it was indistinguishable from all the other bumps. In Spanish "tope" is pronounced "tow-pay" but when either of su sees one we shout out "Tope" in the English way to make sure we slow down in time. They are a menace to all drivers and the best way to spot then is to watch what other drivers are doing. Sudden brake lights rise the cry of "Tope!" aboard Gannet2.
I can't imagine driving these roads after some rain but when dry they are entirely manageable though we go less than twenty miles an hour to preserve the contents of our home.An actual RV park for a couple of days. WiFi, a pool, restaurant delivery (!), easy beach access, no close neighbors, electricity and so on and so forth. Oh yes, there's the laundry, Layne's delight. We are snug for the weekend.