Sunday, October 22, 2023

A Salvadoran

I was busy being a manly man at our campground at Casa Cristal. I swept the floors, vacuumed and shook out our floor mats. Layne cleaned and cooked vegetables for our dinner of pork and chicken hash over rice. While she did that I went outside and started greasing the constant velocity joints on our front wheels.

On the advice of our mechanic in Ohio we put heavy duty after market constant velocity joints to handle the strain of rough roads over many miles. Which is great but they do need lubricating every few thousand miles and that requires me to crawl under the front of the van with a grease gun. It takes five minutes but invariably I come out looking like I’ve been stoking a steam engine so it’s not my favorite task. 

The campground was packed and we enjoyed some up close and personal intertwining from a young couple to whom I was starting to feel compelled to offer some private time on our bed. But I don’t suppose I really want to be responsible for more Salvadorans appearing in this overcrowded country  than there are already. I left them to it in their spacious enough station wagon. 

It was in short a busy Sunday morning in the campground. Layne plotted a route for us to take on Monday to drive the road of flowers, a series of tourist attractions in the north of the country and I got out our DeWalt tire inflator to check the pressures.  And then Fernando showed up. 

He lives in San Salvador the capital and he runs an air conditioning business and what’s more he lives to travel. He has a son in business in Milan in the north of Italy and he has traveled all over Europe. Periodically he loads his family in his Toyota Land Cruiser and they go camping across Central America. 

He doesn’t like visiting the United States much anymore he says because there’s too much stress and he fears violence. A co bit ironic that as many Americans would say the same about travel the other way around. But we also got into the subject of the clean iOverlander of His own country. 

He agreed the Civil War was terrible but he argued that what came after was worse. The gang violence and mobster oppression across the country was unbearable from barefaced robbery to mafia type protection rackets no one was safe. He lost his home and had to move into an apartment over his business when he got death threats for not paying protection money. He’s really happy with the way things are now in the country with the presidents clean up of organized crime. 
He’s happy with the way things are in his country after a long period of darkness and he loves the US dollar as his currency as it allows him to travel cheap among his neighboring countries. He was familiar with our rooftop a/c -a Coleman unit- and said he is buying a rooftop tent in San Salvador for his Toyota. Car camping is becoming increasingly popular among the middle class. 

You need anything he said in parting, give me a call. 

And so we take to the road to explore the road of flowers. 

With greased joints and proper tire pressures I trust our biggest problem will be pronouncing the names of the towns we drive through. 



A Salvadoran Weekend

If proof were needed that El Salvador has a burgeoning middle class the presence of an exotic Italian Ducati motorcycle out camping nearby could be that proof. 

El Salvador is about 180 miles long and no wider than 75 miles from the Pacific Ocean to the Honduran Border. Wikipedia says it’s about the size of Massachusetts if that means anything to you. It doesn’t to me either. Or how about 84% the size of Maryland! Who comes up with these nonsense statistics? 

Basically it’s small and if in your camper van you want to avoid it altogether you can bypass the whole country by driving through Honduras. Why you might want to do that I can’t imagine.

This time of year it is lush and green and we decided we had to go drive up a volcano to get away from the coastal heat and humidity. Beach access is a bit limited in some areas and where you can get to the beach the ocean rollers pound the sand in a manner sure to delight surfers but not us. We plan to get to the beach at La Libertad later and check out the coast road but next week Layne has her eye on an inland tour to enjoy the Road of Flowers. Intriguing eh? 

So why are we sitting in a field at 6,000 feet wearing heavy clothing as the sun goes down? Because it’s the weekend of course! And we’re tourists! 

When you’re retired the weekend becomes a nuisance. Working people whose services you might require aren’t offering those services and places you might like to visit are cluttered up with all those worker bees who aren’t working…the nerve of them! 

So while they are out cluttering up nature we try to hunker down and save ourselves the bother of standing in lines at tourist attractions. Retirement means having the ability to out wait them. It’s lovely. 

There are six and a half million Salvadorans with a bulge in the  population curve between 20 and 40 years of age and they are working hard so they also like their time off. No surprise then that here they are enjoying their weekend off, just like all you lot in the States like to do. 

Layne found the Cerro Verde National Park and up we drove though we were stopped at the entrance as we went to pay our fee. Lamentably the guard said staring sadly at Rusty, no dogs. That felt like a let down as we wanted a getaway above the coastal heat. 
All the facilities to enjoy a splendid weekend relaxing as shown in this hurried snapshot, but not for us. Grr! 

iOverlander to the rescue and we found what turned out to be a better spot for us. $7:50 a night for us and our van, and the dog is not only permitted but free. There is a pit toilet to empty ours into but there are also proper flush toilets for twenty five cents a flush(!) and one dollar cold showers which we can do ourselves for free and we can even heat our water in the solar shower. Starlink has open skies and I haven’t mentioned the restaurant yet have I? 

Vegetarians avert your eyes because for thirty bucks we got a shared giant mixed grill that was delicious and enough for leftovers. Two pots of salsa, two mounds of rice and black beans, eight crispy tortilla halves that in El Salvador come as firm corn discs soft and chewy in the middle, also there were spicy sausages, crisply grilled moist chicken breasts and tender steaks not forgetting the soft ricotta-like cheese. 

All washed down with a tart lemonade - mint drink and of course fried plantains and ice cream to follow. As you do…

Layne tried to suggest the walk across the field to GANNET2 where our dog lay sleeping, helped to work off this giant meal. Whatever. He was sound asleep on his bed but during the day he is not the epitome of canine energy: 

You wouldn’t think ten year old Rusty would need that much sleep but he is enjoying the bracing mountain air just like us…eating happily and snoring. Sometimes he is on guard. 
His time on the thick grass is occasionally interrupted by annoying romantic walks with me when I insist on seeing what’s over the horizon. He can’t wait to get back to his home the moment  I turn around and off he scampers. 

Our first thought on entering the country Thursday afternoon had been to go to the sea shore and we did indeed find a spot to park under some heavy coconut vegetation half an hour from the border. Recommended by iOverlander it offered no facilities but a safe spot to sleep. 

Oh and dinner was how we paid for the night, and it was magnificent, a grilled shrimp platter as flavorful and perfectly cooked as any I’ve had. 

Rusty found his spot but the sand fleas, the humidity and the damp sand after some heavy rain did not make for a joyful experience. 

The spot had an exotic beauty but it felt oppressive to me under damp dripping palms and as there was no apparent beach access we decided we needed to go elsewhere. Our only neighbors were a Belgian family in a Vermont registered RV but they had no inclination to say hello adding to the sense we were intruding so off we went. 

Barra de Santiago had the potential for a pretty beach rest stop but didn’t quite come through so we cut our losses, easy to do in a van, and will try to beach camp again further down the coast.

In that way our stop at Casa de Cristal campground on Cerro Verde came as the answer to what we were looking for and it has been an excellent rest stop. I’m keen to start the next week on the road checking out the countryside of this little gem of a country. El Salvador is full of pleasant surprises.

Oh and while we’re on the subject of food a local entrepreneur came through the campground early Sunday morning carrying an ice chest and offering something cheesy he described as a quesadilla. 

I have no idea what it is, slightly sweet, a soft sponge cake with a hint of cream cheese and a taste that reminded me of pancakes lightly swept with maple syrup. Just like everything edible in El Salvador,  it has a familiar taste or texture but slightly different from what you expect, yet delicious. 

Whatever next shall we find?