To abandon my wife my dog and my van to travel for twelve hours by plane across the northern hemisphere there must have been a good reason.
I last visited my sisters in Umbria in 2017, then Covid intervened and then retirement and here I am six years later catching up.
My great niece is two years old and lives next door to her doting grandparents, my brother in law above and my sister below.
Their two boys have taken over the farm and have turned the farmhouse into a bed and breakfast and restaurant open to the public.
From being an agricultural backwater in the mountains halfway between Rome and Florence these tiny villages are now hosting thousands of tourists on tour who follow a 55 mile itinerary of trails through the mountains stopping at places like this.
My sisters sons cultivate the fields in time honored tradition while her daughter in law manages the hotel with eight employees. Into this hive of activity floated yours truly for a couple of weeks to catch up. Layne had to stay in California to look after Rusty and do some chores do when I get back we can take off touring aboard GANNET2 again
I rented a Fiat 500 for the two weeks so I have my freedom in this hills and great fun it is to buzz the curvy roads burning $7 a gallon gas.
I get to sleep in a newly converted farmhouse out in the fields and mealtimes involved some form of home cured meat. 
I was never cut out to be a farmer hence my departure for California in 1982 but I can enjoy the fruits (salads) of my brother in law’s vegetable garden as well as anyone.
Umbria has been largely overlooked in the rush to turn Italy into a tourist destination but it is catching up.
The slogan is “the green heart of Italy” as this small oval shaped region in the middle of the peninsula is full of forests and small medieval towns.
I grew up here when I was going to school in England so my early life was split between British formality and Italian make-do informality. It was never easy to reconcile the two halves so a third country to settle in made sense. Luckily for me I got into the USA.
“Vaccinations Kill” just in case you like to get your medical advice from a garage door:
I find it slightly ironic that I moved away from a place that has become fashionable and desirable among foreigners. The tendency to romanticize village life by outsiders is a difficult romance for me to swallow as I know the back stories.
I enjoy cruising around taking in the scenery and listening to the chatter of family members discussing long held disagreements with neighbors and the enduring grudges of people who have fallen out. But I want no part of it.
Life in Italy like all of Europe is heavily regulated with government oversight of every aspect of life, such that no American could stand it. Below you see a stationary orange box that photographs speeding offenders. The Autovelox photographs your tag and you get the fine in the mail. No appeals allowed. Get too many and you lose your license.
“No Hunting” Yoy may be surprised to know that licensed hunting rifles and shotguns are widespread in Italian homes. Hand guns and “weapons of war” (whatever they are) get you an automatic jail term. But it is true you get a choice of red or white wine with your meals in jail.
Beautiful it may be but it is no longer home.
The food is always excellent and I enjoy the privilege of dropping in for a visit but I have no regrets about emigrating.
There are fresh generations to take over for me after my flight west. They will do fine without me.
I cane across a book that was written by a woman who came to live in this area. They remembered her here when when I mentioned the story to them, though they were surprised their lives were recorded in a book. So I guess this is accurate as it gets:
