Wednesday, September 17, 2025

The Vet

 I suppose it needs saying but Rusty did not enjoy getting a thermometer up his posterior and he snapped at me as the sweet young vet treated him like he was a farm animal.


It’s a matter of crossing t’s and dotting i’s to make sure the bureaucrats will be happy but most though not all vets actually do want to see the dog they are signing off. 
He passed inspection and upon being weighed he as usual had not put on a pound, still 24 kg (50 pounds more or less) and at that point it was  all paperwork and he had retired from the fray.
After we went to the vet and got the precious certificate for Guyana we thought it might be a good idea to buy Guyanese dollars so we could be clear of the border and on the road to the interior as soon as possible after we clear customs in Lethem. We don’t like to hang around borders much as they are places of chaos and tricksters and con artists taking advantage of confused travelers. I generalize but that’s the feeling border towns give us so we like to drive away as fast as possible.   
It turns out there are no Guyanese dollars to be bought in Boa Vista as I guess there is no market. Lethem (pronounced “Let’em”) is 70 miles and a world away, a village of 2,000 people cut off from the rest of Guyana by a 275 mile dirt road through the jungle slowly being asphalted one painful mile at a time. I doubt I would visit it either if I lived here. So we bought dinner instead to take home to our air conditioned room. 
Layne found and photographed a guy making empanadas and meat rissoles next to a lady making fruit juices so we got a quart of orange juice to go with our fried dinner. 
The rissoles they call Risoles the two dark torpedoes at the bottom of the menu. Ours were filled with ground beef. 
I got some help on the rissole description as I don’t suppose too many people here have eaten them:
We have found fruit juices to be a mixed bag in Brazil. The fruits themselves are varied and interesting and we’ve even enjoyed cashew juice made from the fruit not the nuts and lest there be any doubt cashew fruits (from which the nuts are suspended) are very juicy. Some juices are a bit too pure for us lacking body and essential sweetness. I guess we like some sweetener added, judge us as you like. The orange juice here was tart and delicious and we bought a quart. 
Layne is trying to store cooked goods in our fridge anticipating hot nights parked on the Lethem-Linden trail so we stopped again on our way out of town to buy some skewered meats. 
Brazilians love huge sausages called calabresas and I love them too. The sausages, check them out above. They grill them and serve them simply as an unadorned sandwich. 
The van got some attention of course marveling at life in there across 14 countries. 
Layne was amazed to discover a whole formal restaurant behind the wall. We stopped for the roadside to-go grill but unadvertised there was a full scale eatery for those that know. 
And so after two hours in heat and traffic back to the hotel. Thursday we do laundry and pack GANNET2 and early Friday we plan to get an early start for the  three hour hour drive to Bonfim and Lethem on the Guyana border. 
To get to Guyana we cross two bridges, the first over the river as normal into Guyana where they drive on the left. The second bridge marked with an arrow is one of the most rare land crossings you can find, Hong Kong/China, Macao/China too, Laos/Thailand and Namibia/Angola Kenya/Ethiopia (if open) come to mind. 
It’s a cross over bridge where from Brazil you enter on the right and exit on the left, one of only a handful of such border crossings in the world. I’ve never before done one and I can’t wait for this one. I’m a geography nerd and now you know what I was looking at all those slow nights answering 911.

From Suriname where they also drive on the left to French Guyana the only crossing is by ferry so there’s no reverse crossover bridge for a nerd like me to enjoy. If you think of countries that drive on the left it’s typically in places cut off by water, Britain and Ireland,Australia and New Zealand, various Caribbean Islands, the Bahamas, Bermuda and the Caymans,  Malta, Japan and so forth so this bridge is quite unusual.