I don’t know if you remember the so called blood moon? I was half way up a mountain in Baja when that memorable eclipse covered the face of the moon.
We were in our way up to the park I described in the previous entry after leaving Rancho El Coyote when we pulled over to enjoy the view.
The paved road was at Kilometer 72 from Highway 1 and Google maps marks the spot as the Condor viewing point and there is a sign. 
We walked the spot and enjoyed the views, including in the distance far below our previous stop.
Layne started wondering out loud why we didn’t spend the night here? It was Sunday and this spot might be the best place to avoid crowds and enjoy some peace and quiet. I was ready to stay put.
Rusty liked the spot and set off exploring the bushes. Layne found a tiny cell phone signal so I put up the moonshade, set out our chairs and settled in for a quiet Sunday with a view.
A few cars went up to the park, the sole destination and in the afternoon quite a few left going downhill. We sat tight and passed the time.
And then the serenity of our private spot was shattered. A motorcycle showed up. Drat! He strolled up and introduced himself as Tyler from Santa Cruz. No kidding that was where we used to live and it didn’t take long to figure out mutual acquaintances. Far from being an intrusion Tyler was excellent company. 
He had been up to the park while leaving his tent set up hidden in some trees far below us. He stopped for a quick break but a beer slowed him down. Then Layne offered him dinner.
We hung out with Rusty as the sun went down.
And then another intruder showed up in a pick up truck. Uh oh we thought here’s someone come to move us along. Rusty was keeping guard from above with a jaundiced eye.
Miguel, Ana and their three dogs were taking Sunday off and he wanted to show her the view. They brought some corn to roast. Layne invited them to dinner. Five for chili and corn bread then. Rusty retreated to the van to avoid the dogs.
We talked into the night. We talked about van life and camping not having children and so forth. Miguel wants to go camping in Baja and says Ana is an adventurer. Miguel manages land and brokers fruit as a second job. He is ambitious and I liked his unconventional approach to life.
Tyler’s plans are to ride around Mexico until the money runs out. He got a motorcycle license in February and then he bought the Yamaha 225 and he took off. After the trip ends nothing is planned. My kind of youth. He reminded me of me once.
Chili followed by roast corn for pudding. It was pretty good. We ate in the van while our guests sat at our table. We made do pretty well.
We watched the sun go down and then watched the eclipse under a clear black sky. It was impressive.
Tyler and I stayed up late and talked until the moon was shining again. Ana Miguel and their dogs had left. Rusty came out of the van and listened to us set the world to rights. It ended up a great evening. Tyler left to ride back to his tent and I watched him go feeling like an anxious parent.
After we visited the park on Monday we came back and this time we saw no one. We still enjoyed the spot. We had fixed the antenna of the phone booster and Rusty was sitting outside enjoying some sun. Suddenly I called Layne outside. Urgently.
“Look!” I pointed up and there was a big black bird circling! A condor! They raise them in captivity and release then in the park. From near extinction thanks to DDT wrecking their eggs they are now coming back. I got a crappy picture because as it flew low over us we were busy looking up. By the time it left I had the camera ready!
It was so close overhead I could see the red head and the white wing tips clearly, as it came low and circled. Layne was standing in the van doorway looking up and I asked her for the camera. Then suddenly I realized why we were seeing this magnificent predator so close. I yelled for Rusty and he trotted over looking confused. I bundled him into the van and looked up. The condor, foiled, had flown off.
We looked up all the time until the sun went down. Layne made risotto for dinner and we toasted Rusty’s survival with a glass of wine. And the. It went dark and silent and the sky looked empty.
