Monday, July 28, 2008

Moonlit Bayview Park

San Francisco has Golden Gate Park and New York has Central Park, thus Key West has Bayview Park. That would be a city block devoted to open space, greenery and sporting activities. Compared to the larger cities a block may not seem like much but in Key West it's plenty to be going on with. Bayview Park aspires to the classical roots of public spaces designed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, formality, high minded statuary and nobility of purpose are the watchwords like this formal entryway across from the Police Station: In Bayview Park we find a massive stone monument, a block of immutable rock, commemorating the sacrifice made by New Yorkers preserving the Southernmost City for the Union in 1862, and at the opposite corner Jose Marti, Cuba's revolutionary hero is celebrated in marble in a style typical of 19th century statuary. And at the opposite corner of the park a Czech artist Emil Adamec has erected two statues, a male and female torso expressing he says a gateway between Havana and Key West two cities divided by political barriers.
Bayview Park is a magnet for the dispossessed in Key West, so much so the city administration has removed the park benches, (a couple firmly planted in cement are beyond the Public Work's Department grasp) making it unnecessarily complex for anyone not equipped with their own chairs to enjoy the park. From time to time the city holds public gatherings here but the bandstand is mute most of the time, the lawns, especially this time of year are not enjoyed by anyone much. Dogs are prohibited which doesn't mean they don't get to visit the park if they have daring owners, but mostly I see people playing tennis here standing on the courts in the sun knocking that fuzzy little ball back and forth. There is even a pro instructor even to help the amateurs on their way, so there is no excuse for an attitude like mine except sheer bloody-mindedness.I think they forced me to chase too many balls during my youthful imprisonment in boarding schools. There is basketball, softball and a set of slides for the toddlers. The softball field looked particularly ghostly in the moonlight Saturday night on my lunch break. In the distance, rising up like a fortress one sees the Harvey Government Center illuminated against possible softball ambushes from the darkened park lands where I lurked:For everyone there is something in Bayview Park including public restrooms, facilities not to be under valued in a city where the complaint is frequently;y heard that there aren't enough. Even if in this instance Key West seems to favor the institutional-correctional look for its loos:The restrooms are another reason Bayview tends to get a disproportionate number of residentially challenged hanging around. A few years ago the Salvation Army got permission to install a shower trailer in the Police Station parking lot but even since those facilities were dismantled the park provides determined homeless people a place to lay down:And you thought bleachers are meant to seat people watching softball? Key West, home to multi-purpose facilities. Even in the muggy night air the aluminum benches looked less than homey to me. Homes alongside the park tend to have the characteristic Key West look to them, old, handsome and frequently just a little run down. At four in he morning they can look vaguely sinister:
Or warm and welcoming:
Or massive and well used:
Bayview Park lacks waterfront views, it has no distinguishing features and aside from its monumental monuments it has no structures of historical value. Its just a park and one that tends to get overlooked. I'm as bad as anyone on this, I ride down Truman occasionally into or out of town and fail to really appreciate the simplicity of trees and grass:

And yet my hour long ramble ended all too soon, a couple of dozen photos in the bag, the moon still sinking slowly towards the west and the pool between the Park and the Police Station still as a mirror, in the peace and quiet of the city, slumbering at last:I like working nights for a lot of reasons but having middle of the night lunch breaks is my secret perk.