I was really looking forward to driving Highway 200 down the Pacific coast of Mexico, especially the stretch through Michoacán to Lazaro Cardénas. You can see why:
But before we reached those spectacular views we had to make our first camp inside Michoacán state. Switching from Colima state it was obvious the ride was going to be rougher. The potholes were filled in but by hand so the road was no longer smooth but full of rumbles and shakes. We traveled at 40 miles per hour. After we left our campsite.
I went for a walk first thing in the morning back at our roadside camp at Cuyutlan. It was a Sunday morning and there were a couple of people on the beach in the distance. Up close I came across turtle tracks to what only could be a nest. I was surprised as this was not, I thought, the season. But there again, what do I know?
Rusty went off to explore and between photos ( I have many more stashed in the cloud! ) I kept an eye on him. I buried his morning eggs and we were ready for the off. Back to Highway 200 and The South.
It was a holiday weekend as that Monday was Constitution Day in Mexico. Everyone was out and about and some people clearly had the day off. These things might, in my opinion offer even more fun than a motorcycle. Blasphemy I know but just think what you could do with such a machine and a tent…
Some roadside scenery leaves you begging for answers but this roundabout decoration outside Tecoman had nothing in reply. Feast your eyes on what I judge to be amorous rodents. You may be surprised to learn that despite the distraction I negotiated the turns flawlessly (more or less).
You know how in the US you are required to have properly bolted seats with proper seatbelts etc etc… and in Europe the rules are even more strict? If you want the freedom to make your own choices Mexico might be the place for you. Note also they are properly situated on the shoulder in case the magic third lane needs to be deployed. After the intersection I claimed the non existent middle lane and got behind the box truck which was unencumbered by armchairs and moving a little faster.
I was pretty certain other cars on Highway 200 would be ready to pass the truck and my position behind him enabled me to illustrate for you the passing technique coined by my friend Ron. Where two lanes exist traffic moves to the shoulder to allow a passing car to use his so- called “magic third lane.”
Not I grant you a brilliant photo below but if you need picnic supplies on a holiday or a noontime snack you can do worse than stop for ribs (costillas) with the fixings. If Funions and a Coke are more your speed 24 hour Oxxo stores and Kiosko marts will supply all the junk food you know and love and some stuff you’ve never seen before. I hope I’m not beating you over the head but believe me traveling through Mexico is easy and fun. It really is.
Flat tire? No problem. Llanteras are everywhere you see a tire standing by the side of the road usually painted in white letters. They will fix a flat there and then and some are mobile ready to come to your eighteen wheeler or sedan stuck by the road. Anyone who tells you to carry two spares in Mexico or to carry spare fuel in jugs is stuck in the 1950s. Pat them paternally on the head and use common sense. We carry a full spare (with a breaker bar after my Louisiana experience!) as well as a tire plug kit. I also have a compressor and an air down kit if we need to deflate the tires for long stretches of rough dirt. We may need that in Baja on the way north. Laundry, motorcycle parts and tire repair in one building below:
We have a range of 370 to 400 miles though we are heavily loaded and the roads are steep so I am counting on only 14 or 15 mpg. Nevertheless gas is everywhere in modern gas stations. You pull up and ask for Magna or 87 (ochenta siete) and override the gas attendant’s belief your Promaster runs on diesel. Unless you’re at Costco all gas stations are full serve and no tip is expected. We usually stop at name brand stations and most often Pemex as they tend to have rest stop areas. I’ve even seen hand made signs selling gasolina in tiny villages which I’m guessing is for locals riding motorbikes. We have our old Baja filter from our sailboat days to clean suspect fuel if we ever need to deploy it. Not so far we haven’t as the pumps are all very modern. We pay by credit card in the bigger stations and with cash in smaller villages. Layne checks our credit and bank accounts online like a hawk to prevent fraud. I talked to a Sprinter couple who said they have had no difficulties even though they are supposed to use unobtainable ultra low sulphur diesel. Come as you are I’d suggest and worry less.
In the picture above you can see a Tope next to the pedestrian. It’s fairly typical of speed bumps which are usually painted but not always. I watch for them in approaches to and from villages and anywhere there may be pedestrian traffic. Sometimes their locations defy common sense but you can often spot the invisible or stupid ones by the behavior of other traffic. If either of us sees a Tope (properly pronounced “tow- pay”) we shout it out in English “taupe!” Some people will tell you your vehicle needs superhuman ground clearance to get over topes but like the spare fuel gurus and two spare tire aficionados you can look around and see how low slung local vehicles are. Promasters are used as ambulances in Mexico and they do fine!
Most of what you think you know about Mexico is long out of date, all that stuff about crooked cops and bandits and bribes and so on. Ron got stopped by two cops for turning right on the red right in front of them in Manzanillo as they stood in the sidewalk. Please don’t do that again was the gist of their conversation. He smiled and drove off trying to remember not to turn right on the red. Everyone does it as do I but I’ll try to remember not to do it in front of the cops even if I have an impatient line behind me.
Every time we make a decision to leave another perfect spot I get a little thrill of excitement as I get behind the wheel looking forward to another day of unknowns. The coast road winds up mountains and across valleys of palms with occasional ocean glimpses. The land is narrow and we are discovering any flat spot by the water suitable for camping has been taken.
The charges range from one hundred pesos ($5) for the van for a night up to $20 for a more formal US style campground with hot water and dump stations usually at the sites. Sometimes we pay ten bucks for the two of us but we haven’t found spots where we could hang out by the water for free, though there are possible overnight stops in open spaces along the highway.
The scenery is astonishing and paying ten bucks for a cold shower and flushing toilet in a campground by ourselves is fine by us. The sunset views under the palapa are worth every drop of red wine we brought with us
The only fly in the ointment is we are off the grid which is why my posts have been so erratic. I write these offline and try to post them or schedule them for posting whenever we get a signal. Thanks for your messages of encouragement because I would not like anyone to think I tire of creating memories of these lovely places.
