Tuesday, July 2, 2024

Giovanni Giannini 1958-2024

I always wanted an older brother, someone to release me from the burden of being the heir, the responsible son and I never got that. I got Giovanni instead. 
To me he was the test case for the life I would have lived had I stayed behind and done the sensible thing, managing the farm I inherited in Italy with my sisters. Instead I ran away and divorced myself from my life in Umbria. I had an English father so I spoke English too and found my freedom there. He used to say if he spoke English his fantasy would have been to become a rural family practice doctor in small town America. 

He stayed the course, did his military service and married a colleague, a doctor, who gave him a son whom he named after me. And a daughter whom I love now more than ever because she is so much her father. 

I gave her driving lessons and taught her how to take corners at speed because she is her fathers daughter. Giovanni loved cars and she has the gene where young Michele never has oddly. He doesn’t look like me either.

Giovanni had a career, a family, lots of vacations and one big hobby, riding motorcycles. He told me a few weeks ago he was going to ride the Balkans with his neighbor and I heard in the words the unspoken memories of us on two wheels. Since my accident I have sworn off motorcycles and riding in his car together was not the same I’ll admit. 

You and your camera he used to say. You’re like a Japanese tourist. They’ll make good memories I said never expecting it to be so soon. 

I’d take a couple of weeks in summer and rent or borrow a BMW and we rode all over Italy stopping to eat and talk or for him to smoke and talk. He couldn’t break the habit, the cardiologist had to smoke. 

He hated the internet and preferred to speak in person so I relied on Eleanora’s posts to substitute for news from him directly. 

He loved his work and he took me around his hospital ward to meet his cardiology crew. And on his days off he napped. 

A year ago we spent some days together and we talked more profoundly than we had ever before and he gave me insights into my harrowed childhood that I spent months thinking about and trying to understand. I thought it was a start to our old age relationship reviewing the crap of our youth but instead I guess it was goodbye. 

It was bizarre but everywhere we went within a radius of his studio in Terni he would get flagged down by grateful patients still alive thanks to him. Here in Spoleto last year:  





Put the camera down and get riding. 

The devoted father. 



A Rest In The Sun


After our rather shattering Sunday we elected to stay put Monday and do what the Royal Navy calls “make and mend.”  For us making and mending usually involves cleaning and cooking and so it was. 

The pleasure of the Promaster is being able to throw open the back and side doors so the van interior feels likes more like a covered porch with air and sunlight streaming in. Outside we could see the local mountains cultivated on vertical slopes almost to the top. How the locals do that I have no idea. 

As Layne pointed out a sunny day makes it easy to enjoy van life especially when we’ve had so few lately. She then got the air fryer out and got to work menu planning. 

I did the cleaning part wiping down the back doors that were showing some grime inside, I set up Starlink as the WiFi is a bit weak and we shared it with Jan and Caroline who spent the morning home schooling their offspring. 

Jan is on a sabbatical from his job in Belgium and it is not unusual to see European families touring Latin America. Of course any American family foolhardy enough to suggest driving to Mexico with children would be put in a social media strait jacket. 

We didn’t leave the campground but did go for a walk alone. The biggest drawback to this place isn’t the showers which are hot but it’s Rusty. He hardly left his bed in GANNET2 all day. Partly he was tired and slept but the campground Labrador is young and rambunctious and there are farm animals nearby and he seemed to get a negative dog vibe. 

That was a pity as I took off with my camera across the fields and enjoyed the blues and greens anchored of a sunny day in the Andes at 11,000 feet.  

The plan is to go south and check out some Inca ruins which are closed until Wednesday and then our last stop in Ecuador which is the city of Cuenca, said to beautiful. We shall investigate and may it be sunny. 

From Cuenca to the border with Peru is four hours and from there it’s a two hour drive down the coast to a beach campground with an excellent reputation. Sea level and 85 degree warmth sounds most inviting. 

Meanwhile the pleasure of a sunny day she cheerful company our Belgian friends is not to be underestimated. Layne got a comment saying we didn’t like Ecuador; the truth is I don’t like the approaches to Chimborazo. Later the author of the comment living in Ecuador posted about finding a starving dog at a her house. 

Rusty’s disdain is pushing us on to try another campground closer to the Inca remains otherwise we’d stay here but he can’t drive another day napping in the van. He is a member of the crew and gets his vote too on where we stop. 













A day in the sun. What a pleasure.