Sunday, December 25, 2011

Christmas Lights

I am feeling rather bummed that this year my blog is making way for the rather nice new site that will be operational, I hope, in a few days and that will take over from this space entirely on January First. As a result I am missing out on photographing Christmas lights around town. here is a replay of last year's selection (and my wife's foot is fully healed by now). Next year I expect Chuck and I will feature lots of Christmas lights on TheKeyWestLocal.com




My wife gave herself a stress fracture in her foot in time for Christmas, but luckily she's a Jew who has only the faintest understanding of the Christmas story, but she understands pain quite well so we drove off to Marathon to meet a human skeleton celebrating the season. I have previously photographed Ted, Dr Collin's human bone model but this time it was a matter of whimsy.When I asked the orthopedist who decorated his skeleton he looked at it in amazement and said "Oh, really? I never noticed" to howls of abuse from his office staff who took the time to make his offices look nice. Ted Collins is actually quite a decent guy and gave my wife a couple of prescriptions and an admonishment to take it easy for three weeks. No chance.My wife's health insurance through the school district kept the charge down to an entirely bearable $20 and we exchanged a few thoughts about motorcycling with his very keen office person (and rider). We left the office with our hearts still beating though in one sense we did check out properly.And so to the proper seasonal pictures for this time of year. Staples Avenue off 12th Street came well equipped with fantastic arrays of light and color and whimsy. I don't suppose one can ever have enough of this though what the banner referred to directly I couldn't say. And it did seem a little indelicate to ask. I'm off talking to people too much these days when I have my camera in hand.Christmas is wreaths and holly and red ribbons, it matters not your latitude. Chuck and Wayne and Cheyenne came along, my wife with her foot stayed in the car. This photograph illustrates exactly why Labradors should come in yellow not black (or chocolate). Nice eyes though and he was cheery enough that Cheyenne got jealous.It would be wrong of me to suggest that were a Triumph Speed Triple to turn up under the Christmas Tree I would be annoyed, but I really don't think 125 horsepower would improve my quality of life too much. And my wife would get seriously annoyed at the tickets I would get. Nevertheless it did look quite festive all in green, unlike the rather nice Yamaha Fazer in the background.These people are serious about their decorations.This one was across from 12th Street on Flagler Avenue.Reindeer and snowmen, I prefer the illuminated palm trunks.I hope this is as close to a snowflake as I ever get to see for a very long time.After all the New Town festivity we repaired to Southard Street on our way to the Tropic Theater for a night of French cinema and the adulterous exploits of Mademoiselle Chambon. On the way we took in some more lights.Under the fullish moon, of which more anon.This extravagance, a snowman rowing was part of a larger extravagance that illuminated a whole corner of Southard Street.The house was quite a show and attracted walkers just like us, dogs and all.There was a very aggravating sign in front of the house announcing it had won second prize for it's magnificent decorations. "So who won first?" Wayne asked the night sky plaintively. No answer was forthcoming. Personally I'm not sure competitive decorating is a sport in the proper spirit of Christmas, but not much is in the end.On the front of the guest house another Santa was fishing next to a sign wishing us a happy keysmas.A car came down the street and I pulled over to let them by. Instead they blocked me and took their sweet bloody time admiring the decorations. I should have gone ballistic but the movie wasn't starting for twenty minutes and well...Christmas...spirit...and all that. Bah humbug.But beyond all matters mythical the moon was full this past week and very splendid it was too.Wayne and Chuck had talked about being up between two am and three am to watch the full lunar eclipse, the first such on the winter solstice since the seventeenth century. Something like that. Anyway I was, to my shame, pretty much not that interested in the whole two ante-meridien project, a time when I like to be sound asleep when I'm not working. Then the Fates took a hand and wouldn't you know it I woke up needing to pee at 2:17 am. Not one to fight destiny I wandered out into the freezing cold night and there it was, a gradually fading moon. My gorillapod to balance the camera was not to hand but of course I had to give it my best shot, by hand, as though to prove I was there if nothing else. And so I was.My wife watched for a while but it was cold out there on the deck, less than 60 degrees (15 C) which for us is cold. I left the red moon to do it's thing as the white crescent grew slowly back. Three o'clock in the morning is a very antisocial hour for an eclipse in my opinion.

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Good Bye Bargain Books

It was not surprising I suppose to hear that this funky old Key West business is closing, leaving Island Books as the only bookstore in town. I love the Internet but I love books too. I wrote this essay in Spring 2010 and I present here as part of my ten day retrospective before Chuck and I fire up http://thekeywestlocal.com/ on January 1st. This essay illustrates exactly why I enjoy going around town photographing things, because things change. Farewell you funky piece of older Key West:



If you need good old fashioned hard copy pornography you might consider coming by this place on Truman Avenue.
I stop by here for the stories (not the pictures...).

It's a weird shaped book store as befits Key West's peculiar architecture. There is a long alleyway and little booths off to the side, each booth labeled with general subject matter contained therein.Any used bookstore that has a decent proportion of the famous orange spines of Penguin editions can't be all bad in my prejudiced opinion.Er, I took this picture to illustrate the broadness of my photography, not my mind (on top of all my other mental issues I am not hoping for better in any unlikely next life). I know I'm a philistine but I can't help it. Just be reassured if you come to Key West and want to get up to speed on the afterlife there is a section devoted to it in the booth behind the nudie magazines.



I am a boring old fart because I spend time in the classics section and perusing sailing books. Horror you can keep along with the bodice rippers as well. Blame the dog for the crappy quality of the next picture. Perhaps I should have checked out the pet section.Silly me, I did!



When I arrived the guy at the front saw me tying Cheyenne's leash to a lamp post and suggested I take her in with me if I "wasn't going to be too long." Which sort of instruction induces anxiety in me as I don't want to presume on my welcome. I am a pedant, a philistine and a bourgeois mouse afraid of breaking the rules. Oh well. I've also got a dog that tugs at the leash at the wrong moment. Books bore Cheyenne apparently. Witness the fuzzy picture of more stacks:For those of strong will who can pass by pictures of women with large naked breasts and men with six packs to beat the band, they can come in here and work off their frustrations. A used book store and gym. Who would've thunk? Love among the book stacks. Dream on romance readers; Mr Right looks like me and fluffs the blankets. Life can be a series of disappointments which makes it lucky we have books.
"Dead End" That's my kind of romance novel title. Have I mentioned before that my acute sense of irony is viewed by some narrow minded people as sarcasm? They even have a foreign language section. Russian and German is huge, Spanish is large and Italian is tiny. "Whoever doesn't read this book is an imbecille." Bite me.They were having a sale on comic books. Need I point out this is not my cup of tea? I told you I was a bore.If it ain't Tintin I don't care. They sell normal magazines by the rack load too. I'm sorry to say my illiterate dog likes books with pictures. Her former owners have much to answer for.It's just endless isn't it?

I came in to buy a copy of To Have And To Have Not by some dude who used to live in town, I'm told. The clerk said they were sold out. Bummer. It seems the book is a community reading project and everyone in town is supposed to read it for discussion later. What a coincidence. Strain your eyeballs riepe, those are the titty magazines in the background. You can give me a tour when you visit.
If you want the real thing you set across the street and pay a wage slave from Lithuania to tell you you are hung like a donkey and you make her every bleached root twangle. Someone with my acute sense of the ridiculous finds these places absurd. Like I said, I'm a bourgeois nerd.

I got out of Bargain Books for the loss of $7 plus tax (the nerve to tax me!). Kidnapped is a classic of course, and I haven't read it in ages. Cry Viva is a story of a gringo lost in the Mexican Revolution of 1910, a book I've never heard of. If I'm lucky it will be Graham Greeneland, if I'm unlucky it will be a waste of $4 plus tax (the nerve!). My wife found me a copy of the Hemingway book at the College library. Weirdly enough I am enjoying it, the first of his books I remember liking.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Seven Mile Bridge

We are closing in on the end of my daily publication of this blog after four and a half years and while Chuck and I work to put the finishing touches on our new shared website http://TheKeyWestLocal.com I am reprinting old essays as a way of reminding us where we have been and what perhaps i will enjoy photographing again in the once a day format of the new site. This blog has been great fun, and with the five essays a day format I have boosted the readership enough to allow me to think of better ways to present Key West online. Content will always be foremost because I want to see fresh material every day twice a day and sharing that task with Chuck will be a delight i am sure. I look back in some amazement at my output over the years. All by myself...


When the original seven mile bridge was under construction at the beginning of the 20th century it was viewed by many as an engineering feat on the same order of amazement as the "Eighth Wonder of the World" which at that time was the construction of the Panama Canal, less beautiful perhaps than the Hanging Gardens of Babylon but decidedly more useful in the Industrial Age. The original bridge seen here from the new bridge, shows off the cement columns built around 1910 and still as solid as ever.



The original was built for the railway of course and posed a head scratcher to the engineers standing on Knight's Key in Marathon wondering how they were going to get the rails over the gap. They did it the Panama Canal way, building waterproof holes in the water with wooden casements and filling them with cement, giving them that characteristic rounded look: The new bridge was built in 1982 and opened to traffic much to the relief of the claustrophobic drivers of the Lower Keys. The new bridge is little more than a normal two lane highway when you drive on it: Of course its a bit wet on either side and the scenery is quite spectacular:The old bridge was quite narrow as can be seen today as it is still open at each end for pedestrians for use as a fishing bridge. This is the section of old bridge at the southern/western end, towards Big Pine Key and it's has been gussied up with cement barriers and trash cans:The northern/eastern end of the old bridge, the Marathon end, is still in use as a roadway for the trolley to Pigeon Key. That's an excursion I wrote about elsewhere and i snagged a couple of pictures for this essay.




Imagine driving this road and meeting a truck three miles out. I was told (though I don't remember when I rode the bridge in 1981) that when two trucks met they occasionally had to stop and squirm past each other, folding their mirrors and backing and forthing to get by. Some people really did get freaked out driving this narrow bridge for seven long miles (nowadays it has barriers in the roadway to separate the trolley from pedestrians and cyclists coming from the Marathon end):When the railroad was converted to a highway by the state of Florida in 1938 (thanks Works Progress Administration!) the state laid metal sheets across the rail bed, asphalted it and welded the rails as barriers, which are still there. Pigeon Key was a half way spot where rail workers were originally housed and is now a private park open to the public:The new bridge has a 70-foot hump three miles out from Marathon, which allows tall boats to go from the Gulf of Mexico to the Straits of Florida through Moser Channel.And the hump gives a nice view towards Marathon to the east/north (the road actually goes east but its labelled as "northbound"):Or west and south towards Big Pine Key, more or less:The top of the bridge is marked on the south side by the blue apparatus of the Florida Keys Acqueduct Authority ( the main water pipe to Key West runs alongside Highway One):In the distance you can see the incredible shades of colors created by the shallows surrounding Moser Channel as it spills out into the Straits of Florida.




On the other side of the bridge, the north parapet, is a marker I doubt one in a hundred motorists notices (and why would they?):On March 2nd 1981 an aqueduct truck carrying a backhoe accidentally hit and detonated the propane bottle that supplied the bridge tender's quarters on the old lift bridge on the old span: The 39 year old bridge tender died in the explosion and the Lower keys reverted to their island status for a period of several weeks. An old timer I talked to about the incident said it was a difficult time in Key West when everything had to be emergency airlifted or barged into the city. They fixed the bridge to take cars once again but the lifting portion never returned, as the new bridge was opened the next year to much fanfare.The speed limit is clearly marked though many people, visitors obviously, slow down to take in the views. Its perfectly legal to pass as long as you don't pass where the double yellow lines are solid. I have seen Highway Patrol cars pull a U-turn on the bridge to chase down and stop particularly egregious speeders. And speaking of views, they are quite spectacular, and I try not to get jaded or judgemental when out of state tags are crawling along at 40 miles per hour (The legal minimum for the bridge):That last picture shows two small islands off the southern end of the bridge, lying on the south side. They are called spoil islands because they were created by Flagler's engineers who heaped up the "spoil" as the dredgings were called. In fact all along the highway you will find deep water up close to the roadway where channels were cut so the dirt could be used to buttress the causeway.




I've gone out to the Money Keys and they aren't much:Perhaps it was a lack of mosquito repellent, or the hazy nature of the day, but I found the island to be rather gloomy and unappealing. Though the view of the bridges was rather nice:It's actually much easier and faster to get to the Seven Mile Bridge from my house by Triumph Bonneville than by bouncing 14-foot center console. The islands were the spoil material dug out of the ground by Flagler's workers when they built the foundations for the cement pillars of the original bridge.In fact I had been considering an essay on the bridge for some time, but to do it the way I wanted to wasn't possible during the winter (I tried a couple of times), but traffic was always just too heavy. This time of year there are fewer cars on the Highway so what I did was I waited at the southern end of the bridge for cars to go by and when I saw no vehicles approaching I chased the back of the line onto the bridge (the black SUV in the pictures above), so that by the time I got to the hump I could stop and take the pictures while stationary. I don't recommend stopping as vehicles barrel down on you surprisingly fast and you have NOWHERE to go. Caveat photographer.