Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Random Ramble

I pointed my camera somewhat at random downtown before Tropical Storm Fay and I ended up collecting a bunch of pictures of random stuff. After all this hurricane related bedlam I want to return to a world of order and serenity. This red Smart car first showed up parked in front of the post office last February and here it is, still apparently in use as a commuter:My wife recently turned down her chance to get a blue and silver convertible Smart car. She decided we should keep her new-to-her Sebring convertible and wait for a better choice of small, more fuel efficient cars to come to the US market in a few years. I was surprised by her decision because she seemed to have really fallen in love with the little two seater.
I saw an unconverted convertible cruising Duval Street, and the young male driver looked a bit predatory, a shark eyeing the fresh young things in their bikinis on the sidewalk: I doubt somehow he would have the same effect driving a smartfortwo instead of his BMW.
When they say that Key West is a good town for two wheelers they aren't wrong. I saw a whole huddle of Harleys parked at the Banyan Resort on Whitehead Street. When I see a bunch of visitors on Harley Davidson's I'm inclined to think they brought them down on trailers, which seems a shame to me as the trip should include the ride to get there: Others in Key West use scooters to get around town and parking really is a breeze:Others rent and wear the sort of clothing that would get loud tut-tuts on Modern Vespa and other motorcycling fora:

Oh and they drag their feet too, the heathen. I ride a Bonneville and it deserves a picture here too I think:Away from the hustle and bustle of commerce downtown. Of which there is plenty:

I think they meant this:

Not this:

I spotted Curt striding off across the street looking for more conch fritter supplies, so I stopped him in mid flight and we chatted about this and that. He said business was brisk (mid August before Fay) as parents were enjoying the dregs of the summer school holidays:Then he asked me something about my work and he wanted me to confirm a rumor. he asked if its true that we get lots more calls on the night of the full moon, and i had to confess that in my experience it is a lot busier for the emergency services when there is a full moon. I pointed out I don't believe in such superstitions, but it does seem, in my experience, that we are busier at that time. Hmm, he pondered, that's odd, because the moon is just the same, only more of it is visible. He has his feet on the ground does Curt, but we had to part ways with the conundrum unsolved.

All this activity in downtown Key West was started by a man who is still alive and well and could claim to be one of Key West's first waterfront developers. They named a street for him:

Apparently his family had the land that the Pier House was built on, and that erection started the trend that ended up with all the waterfront sporting large hotels. Wolkowsky himself retired, until a short while ago, to a lonely island about seven miles west of Key West. Woman Key is the only inhabited island in the Wildlife Refuge and his house is quite visible from the water. A friend of mine had business out there one day and he said the affable old man greeted him warmly as he docked his boat and sat him down to a breakfast of coffee and Dunkin' Donuts. Somewhat to his surprise because he had thought the place remote.


Nowhere down here is really remote anymore. We have tours and taxis:

Expensive homes:

Luxurious guest houses, no wait a minute, Guest Mansions:And humble Navy Officer housing converted to million dollar waterfront condos:Thanks in large part to the spark ignited by the old man of Woman Key.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Storm Preparations

Well bugger. Its official, all leave is cancelled and we get locked down Sunday at work. The good news for me is I am ordered in at midnight Sunday (overtime!) which gives me time to get the house sorted. In the spirit of this emergency I have postponed my planned essays around town and the Keys and will be writing storm related essays as long as the Internet is up, about what I'm doing and what is happening. I apologize to those that come here for rest and relaxation and a few nice pictures but the storm is sort of uppermost in my mind even though it can't seem to make up its mind about how strong it should be nor which direction it should take. And for those of you dreaming or planning a life in the Keys, this is just the Serpent in Paradise that one has to deal with every summer...
And yes I have cut down my coconuts, not because I could get sued, as ownership is hard to prove but because they become cannonballs in 100 mile-per-hour winds. Coconuts are non native trees and are prolific so it takes work to keep them trimmed and I harvest hundreds of coconuts from the dozen mature trees I inherited around my home. My house is a stilt home and we use the downstairs for storage, as a workshop as an outdoor laundry and we hang our clothes to dry down here too. Stilt homes are handy not only for flood avoidance purposes but because all wiring and plumbing is easily visible overhead if anything breaks. Plus you get tons of shade to keep cars and motorcycles out of the sun which is the real ruin down here, not necessarily fresh clean rain that washes everything off.
Next to the Bonneville (which I will cover and strap to one of the house's supporting columns tomorrow) I have the black filtration tanks for my rainwater collection system which uses pumps to filter and push the water up into the house from our 12,000 gallon water tank. The main tank actually forms the deck alongside the house:The barbeque grill (which will get strapped down to the deck) sits on the cement chamber that would store 12,000 gallons did it not suffer from periodic leaks...be that as it may we haven't run out of rainwater in the past 18 months and we only use the piped aqueduct water to run our washing machine mostly. My home was built in 1987 among the first in the subdivision before electricity and water were supplied to the street.

I have a sturdy wooden shed and all my outdoor crap has to get stored in there which is a monumental jigsaw puzzle and it may explain why we take so long to figure out what to buy for outdoor furniture.Furniture should fold or collapse, be comfortable lightweight and stack able. These are not the normal criteria but when we buy stuff we try to picture ourselves in this very position: storm coming!
I have a small (2400watt) gasoline generator by Yamaha. It can power the fridge (800 watts) lights fans and TV/DVD player (we don't have satellite or cable reception) and of course Sirius Satellite Radio- all the essentials except a/c. We decided to go with small and portable in our generator for simplicity and ease of maintenance and it is also very quiet; you can talk while standing right next to it. I might have gone for the Honda 1000 but I like the Yamaha dealers at Garrison Bight much more than Victor the Honda dealer on Simonton Street...
I have a skiff at our dock,a 14 foot Dusky which is self bailing (very important for those sudden summer squalls that drop four inches of water while you are at work!) and it rode out all the storms of 2005 at the dock...but I decided I need to get it together to put it on the trailer and stop pushing my luck:

And then I take an hour and secure my hurricane shutters to the windows of which I have 10 of various sizes around the home. I am lucky in that I enjoy wide side decks all round and that makes the job very simple compared to some people who have to climb ladders holding onto these sheets of corrugated aluminum:They slide into the upper frame on the window and are screwed in using butterfly nuts at the bottom, overlapping as you go:This type are laborious and awkward to use especially if you don't have decks to walk on, but I think they are the most secure and my insurance company agrees. Modern sliding shutters are very easy to use and are very good also while plywood sheets are a pain in the ass t nail up, labor intensive and awakward to store.

My house looks like a turtle when the shutters are in place and they make the interior dark and bunker like and a little creepy. Plus any slight breeze rattles them and they sound like the four horsemen of the apocalypse closing in. That was hard to take when I spent four lonely days waiting for Wilma to hit in 2005...my wife was safe Up North while I chewed my fingernails while sitting on the deck watching a cloudless sky, day after day.

So, I've got to get busy putting stuff away this hot Saturday afternoon and somehow, no matter how careful and obsessive we are about not being pack rats the crap accumulates!

The nasty part about Hurricanes (as opposed to California Earthquakes with which I am very familiar) is that you know its coming and you have a good idea when. The details may be fuzzy but there is that empty space in the put of your stomach hoping everything will still be here when you get back from being locked down at the Police Station...Meanwhile skies are blue and its a great day to be in the Keys:That's looking south towards Cuba whence cometh Fay. I hope its"only" a Category One, or pehaps a modest near miss.

Fay 2

Well it looks like my weekend is going to be a busy one putting my life away for an encounter with Tropical Storm Fay sometime Monday night or Tuesday morning. That's if we are lucky and Fay gets a move on and hits us quickly, before it has time to pick up strength. A Category One doesn't sound like much but 74 miles per hour sustained can do a number of outdoor furniture, coconuts and all the other loosely organized paraphernalia of outdoor life.

The police department is trying to figure out the timing of this one and we may all be ordered in to work Monday and get locked into the Police Station for the duration. Lots of overtime follows from that but it also means sleeping in a cot in a building filled with armed people bursting with adrenaline. I have had the hallucinatory experience in previous storms of coming out of the stall rubbing myself briskly with a my towel to find myself surrounded by men half my age bristling with helmets and guns, which some might find invigorating but just did not work for me.
.
City officials will doubtless order a mandatory evacuation if Fay continues to follow the predicted path. That means people who elect to stay (not visitors, hotels shut down and force them out) will find themselves without help when the shit hits the fan. people tend to be very brave when the hurricane is 24 hours away, but by the time the real winds start to blow people get anxious and start to call the police and we tell them that a mandatory evacuation has been declared which means in turn that the hospital is closed and emergency personnel lock down when sustained winds reach 35 miles per hour. By that time people start to get scared as the increasing force of the wind brings home to them how helpless we are in the face of a determined natural event.
.
In the police station I know things are going downhill when we lose the Internet. Before the storm the number of calls tapers off as people are busy. After the storm people call about everything imaginable, and we get extremely busy. And as we are still locked down we have no idea what happened to our own homes. After Wilma I drove home at six in the morning and picked up a stray dog in my car on North Roosevelt (I put the motorcycle away for storms) and dodged boats blown onto the Overseas Highway for miles outside Key West on my drive home. They lay across the road in the pre-dawn darkness like beached whales, some blown 15 miles from the Key West Harbor where they had been anchored. Hopefully this one won't replicate Wilma for us.
.
This rather unpleasant experience is our cross to bear, not unlike the California fires, the Midwest floods or tornadoes. At least after the storm we will be recovering in the Keys, eaten to death by mosquitoes perhaps but not getting hypothermia. Its important to look on the bright side in these situations.
.
And on that note I got Sparky back to his home safe and sound, thanks to the helpful people at the SPCA who kept a list of animals gone missing. His owner had had him since college and was frantic to get him back.

Smurf Village

A good few years ago when I was taking a call for service in New Town my supervisor leaned over, looked at the address on the computer monitor and said, "Ah, Smurf Village." And then pretended to ignore me. Denise knew well enough that my curiosity would kill me, and she knew I was always interested in her stories of growing up in the "good old days..."
"It was a new development," she said, relenting finally with a smile. "They built a whole bunch of duplexes, with overhanging roofs like mushrooms, and painted them bright blue." Everyone thought they looked like the homes of cartoon Smurfs, popular at the time, so in a town that lives and dies by nicknames, the title stuck:
Since those early days the new homeowners have repainted them of course, various shades of this and that:

Smurf Village lies north of Flagler Avenue between 16th Street and 14th Street (14th unhappily also goes by the name of Glynn Archer Drive to make it more confusing) and Duck Avenue. Smurf Village is bisected by a couple of smaller one way streets, Pearl and Harriet, New Town additions to the list of women's names gracing Key West streets: As well as the larger, and straighter, thoroughfare called Eagle Avenue:These are all streets with fairly abundant greenery which adds to the charm, and homeowners in Smurf Village enjoy duplexes with yards large enough to grow a bush or two:I haven't heard the term Smurf Village used in a while so perhaps it has faded from the lips of newer arrivals, perhaps the Smurfs are no longer the craze they once were and perhaps too, people who paid half a million or more for their duplex may not want to think of themselves as living in a cartoon character's toadstool. Even though they do boast those pronounced overhangs and easily identified silhouettes: Make no mistake these are duplexes:I know a couple of people who live in Smurf Village and I understand the interiors with two beds and two baths boast about 1200 square feet of space, a nice size for a Key West home. These days I'm told some of the less fancy homes -no central air, no swimming pool- are offered for less than $200,000, and the more upscale ones are offered around $300,000 so working folks could get a pretty decent home in this very pleasant neighborhood:And like everywhere else in Key West, when it comes to real estate, if you wait long enough it will come on the market:This sign looked pretty weathered so a cute Smurf home with pool may or may not still be looking for a happy new owner...

Friday, August 15, 2008

Fay

I am trying to think of this as a good practice run for hurricane high season which is upon us, but it still sucks. It's early for the Tropical Storm predictions to make much sense, but at the moment it looks as though we are bang in Fay's path with possible arrival Tuesday. Our fearless leaders will spend an anxious weekend trying to figure out what our response as a community should be. If they order a mandatory evacuation bang go the tourists and all their money with them...and if they don't order an evacuation someone will cry foul after the event.

We haven't had a storm warning since the gruesome 2005 season so this hopefully will be a preparatory run for everyone to remember what to do when the weather goes squirrely. I go to work my wife heads north. Sigh.

Statues In Paradise

I find these things profoundly weird. I was walking through the heart of tourist downtown, the ante chamber to Mallory Square which is known as the Sponge Market, or Number One Whitehead Street, and suddenly it dawned on me; I was surrounded by statues: These papier mache things are everywhere around there, posed and staring fixedly into a future that will never come. It is bizarre, but at least some of the visitors think they are great fun:
Most of them are mounted on little platforms with wheels so they can be rolled indoors to safety at night. It doesn't bear thinking about what people prowling at three in the morning might do to these defenseless salesmen:

On the other hand were I to come upon this profoundly grotesque sponge Sasquatch in the dark of the night I'm not sure what I would do, have a heart attack in all likelihood. Let's face it he doesn't look that wholesome by sunlight:And this guy isn't a statue at all, he just looks a bit like one owing to a slight lull in the flow of customers:This next one looks like a New England purveyor of tinned seafood more than a rugged Key West Conch hunter. I don't suppose the punters really care one way or the other, it's just me being fussy:And this one with his idiot's grin plastered forever on his vacuous face has overtones that dare not speak their name:I am probably just too sensitive for this sort of thing. I needed something pure and innocent and traditional but the best I could come up with was this, though what the hell this little tableau is all about I have no idea:

Speaking of traditional this is pure Key West though whether it is Art or even statuary is debatable in some circles:And though it is decidedly traditional some critics argue the Pez Garden is not Art. It all defies definition if you ask me. The Pez Garden is the local name for the Sculpture Garden wherein some notable heads from Key West history are on display:This is Commodore Porter who vanquished pirates and buccaneers from around Key West and set such a high moral tone locals petitioned the Department of the Navy to get him out of there:He ended up a mercenary on the Barbary Coast helping North African governments deal with their own piracy problems. Which goes to show virtue is definitely not its own reward. I need to be invited to write school history textbooks, the little dears would get quite an eye opener.

Further along we find El Meson de Pepe, which sells decent Cuban food from its strategic location and along with that its share of corn:

And their garden has its own special overseer:

Around the corner another group of visitors was having fun with a cardboard cut out of the type no tourist town would be seen dead without:

And across Mallory Square, a young man was busy impressing a young woman:

I am well aware of the fact that throwing cartwheels along the waterfront isn't really being a statue but, in a moment of pure sentimentality, I thought it was worthy of inclusion for the less rigid and doctrinaire among us. Which leads me to the final statue photo of the day which is my Bonneville at rest:Hemingway had his movable feast; I have my movable statue. Home James, and don't spare the horsepower!