Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Vignettes XXV

It's not only Key West that claims sunsets for it's own. The town of Rincon ("Corner") in western Puerto Rico claims it is the land of beautiful sunsets. And they sell bumper stickers on the strength of it: When last we went to Puerto Rico we took a quick rental car trip to the western end and walked out to the lighthouse. The town of Rincon left us rather cold, but I shall have to go back now and see if it bathes me in happiness when I take Puerto Rico Highway 413. I'd like to ship the Bonneville down and then take the ferry to the Dominican Republic but I think the wife would frown at the expense. That would be true happiness, riding the mountains of the Caribbean.
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There has been an outbreak of wrecks in and around Key west lately. I had photos of one motorcycle down with a seriously injured youth. Then a local businessman rode his Harley into the path of an oncoming car and managed to get himself airlifted to Miami for treatment. When I left home last week I found a back-up toward Big Pine Key, not in my direction happily, for another wreck. Then,on my way home from the movies I nearly spotted another wreck one fine afternoon. I was ambling along when a PT Cruiser came zooming up behind me, so I pulled over and let him by, so he could tail gate the car in front. That car needed to stop for a red light at Sugarloaf Key and the PT Cruiser disappeared into a cloud of burnt rubber. Literally. I couldn't get the camera out of my pocket fast enough, but the PT Cruiser nose dived like a stubborn burro and the rear wheels lifted off the road skittering from side to side as the driver, his underpants undoubtedly soiled by now, struggled to stop his car. I was laughing like a drain, the driver of the red car shrugged his shoulders helplessly and the tailgater in the PT Cruiser dug out from under a pile of displaced picnic gear.No harm done but he left a lovely streak of rubber in the road for a souvenir.
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So how much do you feel you have to "give up" to take to the road on two wheels?One full sized parking space at least. Photographed from the third floor of the Freeman Justice Building.
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That same morning when I went to see what was going on in a very busy court room, I saw this guy sitting out enjoying the morning air.

I only noticed the "Morgan for Mayor" sign in the background after I took the picture. This year incumbent McPherson who has won two, two-year terms consecutively is facing a major challenge from fellow Conch Craig Cates. The battle of the bubbas has some people wondering why two good old boys are duking it out. I have an idea but that would be worth more than my job to discuss here. Meet me at Sandy's if you want my take. You're buying my con leche.
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On the subject of Sandy's I was riding through town unnaturally early and I spotted this dude picking up a coffee on his way to work. Scott is a madman, and here's why. This summer,with no motorcycle experience he bought a Kawasaki KLR 650, loaded it with gear and rode across country and had a fabulous time.He didn't ponder it or over think it, he just lived the dream with no muss and no fuss. I admire that,

Now he is riding his KLR to work at Key West High School where he teaches. He said my Bonneville was more comfortable when he sat on it- his KLR was so tall I squashed vital organs trying to reach the ground with my toes. I had been planning to go on a ride with him to the Everglades when I fell off the Bonneville June 1st. I hope he will re-schedule when it is cooler. On the subject of cooler I quite liked this latest version of Harley Sportster, except for the side mounted tag (saddle bag impediment) and the single, very u-shaped saddle: I can't help but remind myself how maintenance free these motorcycles are- self adjusting hydraulic valves, belt drive and a dealer on every corner, except in Key West.

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I came across this for sale sign at the Casa Resort on Seminole Street. They are apparently selling off these historic old buildings.

I thought a picture might be a good idea to remind us of another loss when some warm hearted builder throws up another lot of cookie cutter executive condos. Oh well.

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I always enjoy snapping pictures of people using their scooters. Just using them, with no great fanfare. This guy was buzzing merrily along South Roosevelt with a large duffel bag between his awkwardly placed legs and a stuffed backpack on his back.

I know, he could have more rubber on the rear tire, boots on his feet and all that stuff. But he is out riding and doing what needs to get done.
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Also at Sandy's I snapped a picture of the dudes doing what needs to get done. There's meat on the menu at the café on White Street at Virginia, but I like their breaded fish sandwich.Lots of mayo and a large with one sugar. Bu-u-u-rp. That will put me to sleep on night shift, digesting the fish while the coffee fights to keep me awake on these long slow nights of September when no one is in town.
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I wrote recently of the flood of tourists still visiting Key West. Well, I would have done better to keep my trap shut. In a few months this scooter parking space, on Eaton at Duval, will be filled with rentals and an occasional Bonneville but right now you can see for yourself:
Lately I've been parking further up Eaton as there is a scooter spot with a large shady tree over it. I went to see Public Enemies at the Tropic, a true to life depiction of John Dillinger and a little slow in the middle of the two-and-a-half-hour flicker, and I was glad to find the Bonneville in the shade. Hot vinyl burns through thin pants. On the subject i found a large cruiser by Yamaha, which they call a V-Star of some immense proportion parked in the shade on Appelrouth Lane.

I don't quite get the cruiser thing, the low saddle and the feet flung forward and the immense bulk, compared to a svelte standard motorcycle, even one encumbered with luggage. I like sitting upright as having my feet underneath me puts me in better control of the machine, I think :

The angle of the photographs doesn't help but trust me, the V Star was huge.
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So can you guess what this is?
It is a lower unit off my 25 horsepower Yamaha outboard. There has been a rash of lower unit thefts across the Keys, about 60 of them at last count. People apparently drive up to empty houses and unbolt the lower unit which has no serial numbers or identifiers and haul the unit off in their trucks. An Upper Keys neighbor spotted one of them and set off on a foot chase after the thief. That one got away butleft behind the truck. Sheriff's investigators have told the paper they think it is a ring out of Miami so I was hoping that as Robert and I started in on my unit we wouldn't be turned in for stealing my own lower unit... Happily mine is rather smaller than most of the units getting snatched and we were no experts in removing it. The National Guard would have had time to get on stand by by the time we separated the two halves of the outboard. I normally keep my boat at my dock during the summer swimming season, but with Robert's help we hauled it out at the community launch ramp and replaced the impeller which was three years old and rather tired.
My wife's shoulder is healing nicely from surgery but she still can't climb in and out of the boat so I decided we might as well haul the boat out and Robert nudged me into doing the necessary maintenance. That must be what friends are for. "You don't want to spend $80 an hour to pay a stranger to do it..." he said. "I don't?" I thought. He was right.
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When I took a stroll down Knowles Lane I saw this old Suzuki Tracker mouldering away. Picturesque I thought, but it could have been anywhere, so I saved the pictures for another day.
That would be today:

The interior of the vehicle looked more like a garden shed than a machine that had once relied on internal combustion for it's raison d'etre.When I was a kid we used to sit in these kinds of junque-mobiles and make raspberry noises while we spun the steering wheel. I am not allowed to do that any more under penalty of being committed to an institution so I take pictures instead.I don't think this machine will be rolling again soon. I rather wonder how it manages to just get left on the street in a town which is crying out for parking spaces. It must know someone important.
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I have no idea if these bald old coots own the orange v-twin on the sidewalk, or if they even ride motorcycles. I was stopped at the traffic light on Whitehead Street and liked the picture of the Green Parrot bar scene. I liked it enough to take a second Green Parrot Bar picture of another, more standard v-twin cruiser.I don't know how they do it, go out drinking and then ride safely home.
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Not all of them do of course. I have no idea why this vehicle was stopped, probably for simple speeding which prompted the thought: There, but for the Grace of God, go I- and as I rolled by at a sedate speed gave thanks to the unknown driver for distracting the long arm of the law for me.
The new school year has started and we have all been told to look out for increased enforcement and the dreaded unmarked cars. I hope they catch lots of drunk drivers, my bete noire.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Deer Bridge

This is a story of a government project that was carried out a few years ago (about eight I think), in the Lower Florida Keys, and as such is subject to scathing remarks from people who think the role of government should be that of an organization stuck in the late 18th century. I am pretty sure the Founding Fathers had no clue the great State of Florida (which then belonged to Spain, through no fault of Florida's) would elect to build a bridge in Big Pine Key (then unnamed AND unknown) so this whole public work is probably unconstitutional. But here it is anyway in all it's Big Government glory:There was a problem once upon a time on the stretch of Highway One on north Big Pine Key and it involved a herd of Key Deer getting run down with irritating regularity by passing motorists. Naturally any normal person would have shrugged their shoulders and said,"tough luck" and got on with the business of ignoring their neighbors, but Big Government intervened and decided to make things better. So those horrid bureaucrats imposed a speed limit and decided some cement would make things better. These flashing signs are meant to warn strangers that Key Deer might leap out at a moment's notice. They are all over Big Pine Key. Locals use them as bike racks: Big Gummint also instituted a dual speed limit in the hope cagers could put down their brown paper bags long enough to figure this subtlety out. Tourists have a hell of a time with it. If you can see the number "45" that is the limit imposed by an over arching government bureaucrat. If it is too dark to see the "45" then the "35" will be reflected in your headlight and thus that is your limit as imposed by those socialistic Stalinists. The penalty for violating these draconian limitations on free expression is not getting sent to the Gulag (the road prison just around the corner), instead the penalty would be the imposition a tax lightly disguised as a fine. Be aware that in special speed zones like this one, or construction or school zones for example Florida's generous "speed limit plus five" law doesn't count and you could get an actual fine for exceeding the speed limit by 5mph or less.
All this to protect those non-voting Key Deer. They must have powerful lobbyists in Tallahassee.
The ridge over this portion of the Key Deer refuge looks like a solid piece of engineering to a non-engineer. It includes fences tall enough to keep the deer out, as well as a form of cattle guard at each point where the roadway exits the area surrounded by fencing.Critics call Key Deer small white tailed deer and I have featured pictures of them on my blog and will again I am sure. Scientists tell us these animals migrated to the islands (like all deer they are able swimmers) and ended up living in these rather harsh habitats. If you support evolutionary theory it will be easy for you to understand that the deer adapted to their reduced circumstances by reducing their bulk; either that or Noah dropped a couple of them off on his way to beach the Ark on Mount Ararat. In either case we are stuck with them, and people who like nice flower gardens like they had Up North have to suffer not only the iguanas (escaped pets, possibly also from the Ark) but also the Key Deer. The habitat of these cute little herbivores was split in two by US Highway One and the deer versus vehicle count was rising. So the Gummint decided to build an eight million dollar over/underpass to solve the problem.
Nowadays vehicles can drive the northern tip of Big Pine Key in perfect confidence that they won't ram a Key Deer. Indeed while I was wandering around sweating in the bogs alongside the highway an emergency vehicle made its speeding presence heard as it went by: If one could look out over the parapet to the west of Highway One, a passenger might glimpse a view of water and mangrove islands stretching towards Coupon Bight and Newfound Harbor. Talking a walk alongside the highway produces a much better view of the glories of the Florida Keys:
I parked the motorcycle at the entrance to St Peter's catholic Church at the southern end of the ramp:
And from here I got back on the bike and rode a slow couple of miles to the opposite end of the Key Deer elevated roadway. Somewhere near Mile Marker 32 there is a side street, Beach Drive which is only a block long but connects the Highway to another hidden Big Pine Key subdivision- really just a few homes in the mangroves. Notice this exit too has a cattle guard:
In all the years since this raised highway was built I have never seen a deer on the roadway so from my empirical evidence I suggest this government project works flawlessly: human and deer lives are being saved daily. I love the blue signs advertising Highway One as a hurricane evacuation route. Like there is any other roadway available that might lead an evacuee astray. And here we see more of those confusing 45/35 speed limit signs. I have on occasion seen Highway Patrol cars parked on the shoulder here so I advise caution to inveterate speeders. I pull over onto the shoulder myself to let tailgaters rush ahead and get the ticket. There is a little hump in the roadway at the northern end which obscures the view as you drive south eager to reach Key West, just 28 miles away. And as you cruise over the hump at 60 miles per hour there is a the radar gun. Oops. The oddity I photographed below is an osprey nest built atop a pole planted for the purpose. This is my Bonneville which I recently named Samantha in honor of the witch of Bewitched fame.
That's a lie I made up on the spur of the moment (us socialists do that a lot, lying). I don't give inanimate objects names even though the Bonneville has bewitched me. The northern end of the ramp splits into two separate lanes with turning lanes to allow cars to turn off to Long Beach Drive which meanders down another subdivision on a far flung piece of Big Pine Key. Thats why the island is called "Big."
And then the end of Big Pine finally appears at Spanish Harbor Channel which also marks the northern tip of this Key Deer refuge. People who say they know estimate the population at under a thousand though the deer are staging a comeback. Which also annoys people as the business of protecting endangered species also puts a mild crimp in development plans and we all know that Gummint likes to hamper the creation of malls and box stores and unrestricted fields of neon. For my part I am a little tired of the 45/35 mile per hour restriction. I don't understand why, at the risk of giving ammunition to the anti-government nutters, why these limits are maintained when this stretch of unobstructed rural highway could easily have a limit of 50 or even-gasp!- 55 whole miles per hour. Instead, despite the perfect operation of the fencing we continue to snore our way through here at 35 miles per hour (60kph) during those dread hours of darkness. When I'm driving home from Miami at midnight all I want to do is get to my bed five miles away, and 35mph is an invitation to a ticket. Bless those Key Deer, and thanks to Noah for dropping them off for us.

Monday, August 31, 2009

In The Navy

Today I am posting a short essay with just three pictures to make room for the guest essay below. I was on Truman Waterfront last week and spotted a rather ugly military ship tied up to the Outer Mole, also known as the Navy Pier.I don't mean to be rude, and I'm sure this magnificent dry cargo ship is a great place to call home but it looks to me like a child's drawing of a boat. However this ship has a particularly close connection to Key West which I thought was worth mentioning. The ship was built in California in 2004 an christened in 2008 by a Key West Judge.
I was surprised to learn a few years ago that Circuit Judge Peary Fowler was Robert Peary's great-granddaughter. Actually I wonder how many nerds other than me even know who Admiral Peary was or what he accomplished. I do know, thanks a modest amount of research that the ship pictured costs around $400 million dollars, and can travel 14,000 miles at 20 knots (24mph). It is designed to carry supplies for other Navy ships that travel around with guns, which the Robert Peary doesn't appear to have.The other nice thing about Truman Waterfront is people can come out and get their exercise, at least for now. The city has its collective knickers in a twist about what to do with these 34 acres handed over by the Navy which decided it no longer needed them. Like all gifts awarded to fractious families, this one is managing to piss off every single faction and group in the city. For now we should all rush out and mill about here while it is open, undeveloped and available for free. pretty soon it will be a better place with, no doubt and entrance fee and lots of instructional signage telling us what to do and what not to do. Progress will not be denied.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Florida Mountains

I wanted to do this last summer but windy conditions and a general lack of humidity made it harder to find towering thunderheads, and I lost interest. Not this year.
It was the perfect afternoon. I left home early with an appointment to meet my wife in Searstown for coffee, con leche actually, to set me up for a long night work.As I got dressed to leave I could hear thunder rolling off to the north, in big cracking waves of sound. From Highway One it seemed likely I could get to Key West ahead of the rain which appeared to be mostly paralleling the highway. This, I figured was my opportunity to get some pictures.As they are in most places, thunderstorms are localized in the Keys, the difference here is that with the small elevation offered by the highway, an observer can see for a long way across the open waters. It's possible to look ahead, unencumbered by hills or forests and get a good idea of whether or not one needs to put on waterproofs. Checking the National Weather Service radar (that would beBig Gummint functioning perfectly, contrary to stereotype) also helps. I can see with my own eyes there's no rain down the road here, just castles in the sky. Or as Florida photographer Clyde Butcher calls them, "Florida Mountains."
If I remember correctly this was out in the Saddlebunch Keys west of Sugarloaf, and the rain was hammering down a long way north. As I stood astride the Bonneville I glanced down at the thermometer and it was reading dead on one hundred degrees (38C). It looked a lot cooler in the rain.The sun was dodging in and out between the clouds as they rolled over and over themselves. Summer in the Keys is the season for rain and thunder and lightning and spectacular displays of what Radio Nacional in Havana calls tormentas electricas, "electrical torments." So that is what I like to think of the roiling black clouds, writhing "torments", in the picturesque language of the communist weather forecasts.It doesn't take much time for the snowy white mountains to somehow pick up moisture and transform themselves from benign and white to a dark foreboding gray:
Still looking rain-free on my way to Key West, by now about ten miles to the west.
Looking to my rear the rain clouds were roiling over Sugarloaf Key after my passage:
To the south there was no sign of rain thunder or electrical torments, just those lovely white puffy piles of cotton wool:
Approaching Shark Key the rain seemed to closing in and shutting out the sun:But from there I kept going, ignoring temptations to take pictures. I was supposed to be at Conch Scoops in Searstown a little after five for the café con leche, and time was running out. As it was I got there thirty seconds before my wife and had tie to take a picture to the south- no rain showing behind Outback Steakhouse, but rain aplenty was coming from the north still:
Somehow I managed to make it to work without either a) getting wet or b) bothering to drag on my waterproofs.
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My favorite picture of the afternoon's ride to work was this one:I stopped on the shoulder near Baby's Coffee and parked for a quick picture that I think expresses the fun of taking the motorcycle when your wife thinks you should be sensible and take the other car. Motorcycle versus the Storm. How elemental, my dear Watson.