Thursday, December 10, 2009

Crane Boulevard

A sunny day in the Lower Keys, which as we know is nothing to boast about, as we have so many of them. I was at home and wanted to get out of the house (this was before Cheyenne came into our lives) so I did using the wife's Vespa ET4 as the getaway vehicle. Crane Boulevard turns north from the Overseas Highway at the traffic light by Sugarloaf Middle School and after cruising through a subdivision of side streets stops right here:There is a helpful sign with myriad instructions for use of the refuge:Basically you can't camp, light fires, shoot things or walk your dog off a leash once you get past the barrier. There was a movement a while back to tear up the remainder of Crane Boulevard but a whole bunch of people got their knickers in a twist and protested and the asphalt remains available to walkers and cyclists.Crane Boulevard stretches a couple of miles into the wilderness, dead ending in the middle of nowhere. The last time i came, last winter that was, I rode my bicycle out here because that is the sensible thing to do on a long straight stretch of road. This time I wanted to walk and take pictures, so I did:This bird stopped off briefly at the very limit of my camera's zoom magnification. I think it was a heron:
I was walking smartly along when I heard a swooshing sound behind me. He waved gaily, she kept her helmeted head firmly down and swept past without so much as cracking a grin, or twitching an eyebrow in passing acknowledgement.Nature abhors a vacuum, we a re told, and this empty roadway must be starting to look like a vacuum because plants are growing in from the edges:Of course humans abhor a pristine wilderness so when I strode off down a short path I immediately came across this piece of mechanical civilization discarded in the bushes:There were some pine trees further up, rather spindly of course, as befits an island with very little actual dirt.And I found some mysterious fence posts lining just one side of the road. Without any actual fencing.
This puddle was covering a two lane track, as though made by a vehicle which led off tantalizingly into the bushes.And then I spotted this long faded sign on a long dead pine tree. I started to feel like an archaeologist trying to interpret signs from a long dormant past.And there they were coming back around the corner, pedaling firmly along:
After they made their silent way past me I slipped off down another side track and came across what looked like a series of petrified cow pats. I think they were just rocks of some sort.
And wasn't I surprised to come across a rain gauge, one that hadn't been emptied in a while apparently:Clouds were building over the wilderness and an east wind sprang up suddenly. Perhaps I was disturbing sleeping spirits or more likely the weather pattern was changing. I turned back.I doubt I got more than halfway down the two-mile length of the pedestrian portion of Crane Boulevard.It was a good way to get out of the house, a pleasant walk, and a fine ride home.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Green Parrot

This is an essay about me stepping out of character. I was looking forward to a nice evening at home with my wife. There was turkey soup to polish off, a box of red wine fermenting on the kitchen counter (these are hard times we live in and decent bottles don't come as cheap as boxed wine) and for once I had no overtime to work. My life is filled with overtime at the moment as Alpha nights is short one dispatcher and my colleague Paula, the overtime hog bless her, is out of town. We got a call from a friend, her husband was playing at the Green Parrot Bar on the corner of Southard and Whitehead Streets. It makes all sorts of claims, the oldest bar in Florida, the first and last bar because of it's proximity to the Mile Marker Zero sign, and so forth. It boasts no air conditioning and lots of musical acts. A combination that makes it fortuitous I don't live nearby.
Sunday night the place was packed for the regular "sound check" performance. None of that helped me, as my least favorite position is to be in a smoky room standing shoulder to shoulder with strangers and a few friends in an environment so noisy I can't carry on a conversation.Lots of people everywhere. There was a reason for the crowd and as soon as everyone started flashing their cameras I took advantage to snap a few essay-worthy pictures. I liked the representation of the migrant-spotting blimp seen flying over Cudjoe Key: Television is the curse of the modern age, and I loathe eating in restaurants where there is a television (I stopped going to Harpoon Harry's diner when they got a TV). Even in bars I would rather see the TV chopped in half by a ceiling fan, thusly: The reason we were here was to see a woman sing. She was celebrating her 90th birthday, feat enough for most of us but the remarkable Norma Miller celebrated her birthday with some jokes, some singing and astonished the audience with her vivacity and sheer physical strength. She cussed and joked ("I put my teeth on the night stand, I put my wig on the night stand, I put my titties on the night stand- he don't know whether to jump on the night stand or jump into bed!" gave me a rather startling appreciation for the vicissitudes of old age). My only photograph of this remarkable woman left a lot to be desired and my best efforts to brighten it up barely do her justice. She was, in my defense, the center of a very large crowd of attentive fans:Apparently she is known as the Queen of Swing and no one at the Green Parrot could tell me how she got that grandiose title. Google came to my rescue and it turns out she literally wrote the book on the swing era in New York in the 1930s. She says she entered a Lindy Hop contest almost by accident with her partner Frankie and they were spotted winning, which success led to a job at the Savoy. Skip forward a couple of generations and she was in Key West at the Green Parrot Bar:I made do with a glass of Bass and we listened to what turned out to be Miller's only set and then the band, as they say, played on. The main reason for our visit was Phil who was playing keyboard for this guy, a friend of his from Up North.
Crude flash photography does a good job of illuminating, as reluctant as I am to use it.
Space opened up, a little, with Miller's disappearance...

...and I managed to catch Phil smiling a little. His wife Cathy says he was feeling a little out of his element though you wouldn't know it. Phil operates the piano at Little Palm Island, the swankiest resort in the Lower Keys, a job he has held and enjoyed for years. I was extremely ready for turkey soup by now, so I sucked down my second beer of the evening (Newcastle Brown this time, as the Bass seamed rather flavorless compared to my favorite Smithwicks) and took some pictures.
Bar people enjoying The Life in Key West Florida.
I had a ways to go......but the women were still nattering, until finally we discovered it was time to go.
I was surprised by the demographics of the people I saw in the bar, mostly older perhaps a function of the music or the time. Apparently the music is brought forward to an earlier time to accommodate the sleep patterns of the older generation. It worked for me, I was home and supping soup before 7:30. With a glass of mineral water as I had had my quota of alcohol for the day, old man that I am. I make an appalling barfly.

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Thanks to bobscoot who sent me some improved versions of the shaky dark pictures taken across the room. Norma Miller in her black hat is actually quite visible as a result, as are her musicians. Trust a thoughtful Canadian to step in selflessly.

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Meet Cheyenne

Okay, it's not my kind of name, but she is my kind of dog. 73 pounds (33.2 kg) of Labrador love. I picked her up just before lunch yesterday, and we spent a rather hectic afternoon together once I signed the adoption papers and forked over $50- cheap at twice the price in my opinion. The Florida Keys Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals has it's work cut out for it; I don't recall seeing a sign like this at any other animal shelter: There were lots of dogs to choose from but my wife spotted Cheyenne at the Holiday Parade Saturday night and my heart was set on her. This was her neighbor, cute and full of life. They are trying to raise five million bucks to build a hurricane proof air conditioned shelter here on Stock Island and they do a great job with what they have, cobbled together pens and kennels and a surprising amount of love: Volunteers walk the dogs and spend time with them. Cats roam free in a large cage, if they are suitable for the communal experience while some of the dogs get to hang together in groups and play madly. Cheyenne was alone in her pen when I arrived:Neither of us needed it but we got a get-to-know-you-walk together and she was as ready to go home as I was.She's a cheerful dog, wagging her tale on her way to saying goodbye to her former fellow inmates. She was dumped at the pound on October 27th 2009 by a military family from Louisiana, who, to my horror got rid of her, their older dog, and kept their younger animal. What a mistake they made. I cannot imagine the cruelty of dumping your family pet because she is old. And Cheyenne is a very young eight. She's never coming back here, that's a promise.
Cathy checked me out and told me about her issues, the usual skin problems caused mostly I suspect by stress, ears itching and so forth. No big deal. She was spayed by the pound (eight years old and not previously spayed- who are these idiot people who dare to own dogs?) and she got a vet's check out before being put up for adoption. No heart worm which is nice and a bit surprising.Before we could leave my wife had to come by and bond with the dog so the SPCA is sure the animal would be compatible in the home. They checked county records to be sure I owned my house, and then all the shelter workers came by to say good bye to their favorite Labrador and we were off.The plan was to take a quick walk, go home and relax. The day did not go as planned. Cheyenne walked straight to the car and climbed into the back seat like a pro. This was going to be easy I said to myself.We stopped by Little Hamaca city park and Cheyenne was off, sniffing and checking every little piece of greenery out. She looked like a dog in need of stimulation, and I think she found the right home because I know every wild dog walk within 30 miles of my home.She rides like a dog raised to be in a car, settled in the back seat, never bothering me at the wheel. I left her to do a little light shopping (brushes, bowls, some food etc...) and she sat quietly in the car while I was gone. It was heartwarming to come back to the car and see the little yellow head peering out looking for me.The beach brings out the juvenile in a dog and I met a couple of my friends who wanted to see my "new" dog on the waterfront. We ate our Badboy burritos at a Rest Beach table (and I was delighted to see no begging!) and let her loose on the sand. She started to run like a newly liberated dog.
Cheyenne doing her pit bull imitation tearing up and down the beach ears flat back:
She apparently has never been trained to enjoy the water and she didn't do much more than paddle around a bit before fleeing back to dry land:Noel thought the water was too cold so I had to explain a little about the Labrador breed's heritage as boat dogs raised in the cold Canadian North. They were first recorded as a distinct breed in Britain arriving off a Canadian fishing boat in 1820. In England they were trained to retrieve birds shot down in brush and bog. They thus have thick oily coats and Key West's balmy waters even in winter are nothing to them.
It really was time to bugger off home and do some settling in. So off we went, Cheyenne doing her duchess thing in the back after a firm rub down with a towel......before settling down for a nap while I did the chauffeuring thing up front. We got as far as Sugarloaf Key when my wife called requiring my presence back in her classroom on Stock Island. Heavy lifting is my specialty. She was in a meeting so I figured young Cheyenne might as well get some more of the great outdoors she had obviously been missing for a while. We went to the Bat Tower.It's pure speculation on my part and I doubtless have an over active imagination when it comes to dogs but I spent apart of the afternoon wondering how long she had fallen out of favor before the bastards dumped her. I wondered about being supplanted by a new younger dog in the family and being sidelined. I wondered even if they had had the gall to breed her and kept one of her puppies to replace the aging version. I really don't understand the prejudice against older dogs. To me they are more deserving of care and love and security. And Cheyenne is great company. She found an abandoned lunch on a utility trailer bed and amused me for a few minutes as she circled and tried to figure how to get it. She leaped up and almost nailed it but gave up.I am a lot less fanatical than some about what a dog puts in their mouth. Emma, my last Labrador sailed with us through central America along with our husky mix. They ate anything and everything they could find in every harbor we stopped in, and along every beach. Chocolate, chicken, greasy nastiness, whatever they found they ate and no way was I sticking my hand in their mouths. I met another cruiser who freaked every time his German Shepherd so much as looked at the gutter. I found my style of travel was much less stressful and the dogs did fine. I have no doubt Cheyenne will too. Though I do want to try to keep the weight off as much as I can in our calorie filled world. Labradors don't age much and I want her as long as possible.The last I saw of her before I went in to work for some late night overtime was a big yellow mound next to my wife's shape under the covers. She stopped snoring a moment and raised her head off the bed. Then she flopped down and I tip toed out and fired up the Bonneville. A home isn't a home without a Labrador and a rescued Labrador is the only way to go. Why buy a dog when there are so many abandoned animals looking for love and appreciating it when they get it? I just don't know why you'd encourage people to produce more dogs when there are more than enough already available.I won! No, my wife and I both won! No the SPCA won! No really, Cheyenne won the lottery (look at her on the bed for confirmation). Now we just need to figure out a new name.
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Post Scriptum: This is, quite coincidentally my 1000th post on this blog. Who would have thunk? I expect there will be quite a few more concerning the maintenance of dogs in the Keys now.