Sunday, March 6, 2011

The Highway Home

I think it's safe to say Cheyenne and I had a memorable day in the Everglades last week. By the time we were at Plantation Key the sun was setting in another of those ridiculously picturesque Keys sunsets.Even taking point and shoot pictures as I drove produced images I could live with, though I do prefer to take a little more time to compose the shots under less frenetic circumstances. I wanted to try to capture that most elusive of Keys' experiences, the drive down Highway One.Most people who choose to live in the Keys, particularly the Lower Keys, and even more so Key West city residents, take as one of the highpoints of island living as being the ability to do without a car much of the time. The freedom from driving is frequently celebrated as a desirable attribute of life in these connected islands, as much as the pleasant winter weather.I, by contrast love driving, I enjoy road trips and if it is a question of riding the motorcycle, well i would do that all the time if I didn't have to haul my dog or my wife from time to time. To me living 27 miles from my work is a source of pleasure, the drive across the bridges, the views of open water and mangroves that city residents rarely see if they never leave Key West...these are all aspects of life ion the Lower keys that I love. I also enjoy the fact that we ar eindeed connected to the mainland by a contiguous road- the belssing and the curse of the Keys.In the photo above I caught a shot of a pick up truck passing a slower car on one of the stretches of road in the middle Keys, Matecumbe Key I think, where passing ios not only allowed b ut it is quite easy and safe. Travel on the overseas Highway can be slow and tedious, especially in winter when visitors drive badly and slowly as they take in the sights of the unfamiliar views across bridges and open water. Gas stations line the highway including several that are open 24 hours, because despite all claims to the contrary modern industrial civilization is as much present here as it is anywhere else in Florida. Indeed much of the landscape of the Keys is a hodge podge of terrible zoning, or lack thereof, billboards disfigure the skyline and buildings pop up whereever space allows with minimal landscaping. The situation seems likely to get worse as the governor is abolishing the state oversight agency and local county commissioners have shown a marked lack of enthusiasm for putting the brakes on developers.Happily the open water views don't change, though they do tend to be distracting for the uninitiated. I never get bored with twists and turns in the Overseas Highway and a drive once a month at least is always a pleasure. I cannot conceive of nte being able to take the occasional trip to the mainland. Shopping for me is mostly Costco for foodstuffs and motorcycle gear from specialty shops; my wife likes Target, Nieman Marcus and the Container Store so we make the rounds when in Miami. Then there are the longer road trips like last year's drive to California and drives to see friends, or the odd Iron Butt endurance ride...they all start with a two hour roll down the Overseas Highway.To live in the Keys and to be fearful of the drive down the 42 bridges between Key West and Florida City would be just too limiting for me. I watch the price of gas go up and I know a shorter commute would make more sense, but I well remember the feeling of being trapped when I lived and worked in key West and rarely got out. The Highway is a life line and it creates dependence because we expect it to be there and we expect trucks to come rumbling down every day bringing supplies. On the rare occasion the road has been closed, typically by a vehicle wreck, if the closure is too prolonged things start to get gnarly in a hurry. I recall a tanker fire on the Seven Mile Bridge ended up closing the road for 36 hours and panic shopping set in almost immediately at the Big Pine Winn Dixie supermarket...I know the Overseas Highway well enough that I can time myself pretty accfurately coming and going. To get from my house at Mile Marker 27 to the Long Key Bridge at Mile marker 71 just north of Layton takes me about 50 minutes.Speeding on the highway is a fool's game for visitors as it's hard to know where the traps are and how to spot them in the midst of everything else that is unfamiliar. Getting pulled over by the cream and black cars of the State Highway Patrol is almost a guarantee of a ticket. If you don't know what the county Sheriff's unmarked cars look like you might want to play it safe too. Florida is quite generous with speeds as there is a weird speed limit plus 5 law, which says speeds five mph over the limit can only get written warnings...Speeding though isn't the point here. Limits vary betwene 45 and 55 mile sper hour and the drive can be as relaxing as you wish. radio stations run the gamut from the usual top 40 and country western stuff to NPR at 91.5 or Radio Rebelde from Havana at 620 am for anyone who wants to listen to the Forbidden Isle (590 am is classical music, advertising free, on Radio Nacional).It's an odd thing when you think about it, driving out a hundred miles across the water on this thin ribbon of asphalt. Really the highway makes all the islands part of an extended peninsula, like it or not. The tall communications towers along the way are visible reminders of our dependence on the mainland.I try to imagine what life would be like in teh absence of say, the Seven Mile Bridge, creating the requirement to schedule a ferry ride to get out of the Lower keys. Perhaps a blessing and a curse. Certainly such a stumbling block might boost Marathon's tourism if it were that complicated to get to Key West... but we have bridges which make everything convenient.I'd miss the road trips and the drives down Highway One if the bridges weren't there.And of course the best known connector of them all is the Seven Mile Bridge, seen here at dusk at the end of a 14 hour day's drive around south Florida.It may seem limiting to have but one way in and one way out and one route only to get around, but in point of fact it is liberating considering the alternative. Lucky for me I enjoy traveling it so much.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park

Rolling south on Highway 29 from Alligator Alley I spotted a road sign to Copeland, a village of trailers that have apparently suffered some not so recent devastation. I wondered if it was possibly from Hurricane Wilma from distant 2005 but there were graffiti asking the Feds to please mind their own business (I'm paraphrasing here) and keep out of people's homes.I saw people living in homes with hurricane shutters on the windows and it all looked terribly depressing. I came to Copeland about four years ago on a Vespa ride round the Everglades but that time I was busy checking out the nearby Turner River Road and I barely stopped in here.I wrote a ride report for Advrider: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236885&highlight=Vespa+Everglades about that trip in 2007 in June before I started this blog. I go tired of all the attitude on fora that i decided to carve out my own niche on the web in mid 2007. And now almost four years later I was back at this spot and ready to penetrate all the secrets of this place:
The signs promised an eleven mile dirt road through the preserve followed by more miles of the same dirt which is currently interrupted by construction before I could reach Naples on the other side. Cheyenne was not excited by the rumbling noise and lurching of the dirt road and I hadn't the heart to tell her we'd have to double back the way we came to get out. It was a glorious day, one more in a series we'd been having for weeks. We stopped and Cheyenne took off across the grass. A flower, an orchid possibly but of course I am still not a botanist.
This, I later discovered was a bicycle tour operator towing bicycles in the trailer.
This diminutive animal looked quite like a Key Deer, bounding around and utterly ignored by my dog.
The road droned on feeling a lot longer than eleven miles and my car got progressively whiter with the dust.
The road, narrow as it was, had frequent turn outs and several of those had intriguing looking trails wandering off through the woods. We did a bit of checking out together much to Cheyenne's delight.
These watery woods were more like what most people expect to see in the Everglades...
...and Cheyenne took advantage to cool off and have a refreshing drink in a small running stream. I was rather concerned about alligators so I kept a rather closer eye on her and limited her wandering, more than I usually do in the Keys.
There was no pedestrian crossing marked but the bird behaved more like an annoying high school student dawdling in the crosswalk.
For some reason I swerved to avoid a stick in the roadway, and when I looked back in the mirror I noticed the stick was all coiled up, pissed off, as though suddenly awakened from a deep slumber. I backed up to take a picture:I have no idea what make or model it was but I didn't get out of the car and off it went into the brush. Eventually the eleven miles came to an end and we broke out into a new preserve.
This place has been in the news lately as our new idiot governor wants to stop rejuvenation work in this section of the Everglades, work that has closed the road heading west for several more weeks. In the bad old days canals restricted the flow of water drying up the Everglades and now that work has to be undone to get the flow going again, flow that filters the water before it ends up in Florida Bay to the south.
Florida's wilderness never ceases to amaze me, blue skies, winds whistling and whole stands of trees bending to the breeze. The silence was perfect.
Cheyenne pottered about happily, coming and going on those weird missions only dogs understand.
The signage was as bad as a home owner's front yard in Key west, notices all over the place and not many making much sense:
Here's a road map to show where I was. The dirt road comes out somewhere near where "Naples Manor" is written on the map. My only option was to turn round and drive back eleven miles to Copeland as a barrier was across the road closure.
Back at the entrance to the park we stopped by some old gravel pits filled with water. I played with the camera while Cheyenne took one last wander.It would have been a pretty spot had we had a picnic.
Then it was on to Highway 41, the Tamiami Trail, the original early 20th century road across the Everglades. I find it much more fun to drive than Alligator Alley, even though the speed limit is 60 in Collier County and a modest 55 in Dade. Motorcycles don't help either as they seem to be ridden by people barely interested in moving at all.The frequent Indian villages are a nice speed trap as the limit there drops to 45. I got a ticket here a decade ago after a Highway patrol car followed me at four in the morning blasting through the zones at 60 miles per hour. Nose bleed speeds, I'm sure. Then it was back to the Keys via Card Sound Road and the seventy foot tall bridge giving a view across the northernmost mangrove islands: In Key Largo I went through a gas station car wash to get rid of the white dust and Cheyenne was quite startled by the process: From there we rode the Overseas Highway into the night getting home at 7:30, thirteen and a half hours after we left.It was as tiring as riding a motorcycle, so after a glass of wine and dinner I was ready for bed. I had scratched the itch to see the mainland and for a while at least the Everglades won't call me back.

Friday, March 4, 2011

Seminole Country

Traveling North on Card Sound Road one comes to the intersection where the left turn goes to Florida City, the road straight ahead leads to the exclusive and gated Ocean Reef Club and traffic mostly goes that way. The plebs, gardeners, housekeepers and maids, that keep the community operating tend to commute from Florida City in the morning, so leaving the Keys this way is against the traffic for the most part. The toll to get out of Monroe County is a dollar, unless you have a pass from Ocean Reef Club issued to employees to give them free passage. They give change at the booth but Sunpass, The Turnpike automated system doesn't work here.From the Toll Booth at the county line Dade county stretches dead due north for ten straight miles through the southernmost Everglades.
I stopped for coffee and a sandwich in Homestead and admired the new billboards reminding drivers that tolls in Dadecounty are now human-free. If you run the Turnpike in Dade without a free Sunpass transponder you get charged 25 cents extra per toll booth plus you get a monthly two dollar and fifty cent surcharge if they charge you by reading your license plate.
The booths are now no longer staffed but traffic isn't allowed through the booths yet so all traffic has to squeeze into the Sunpass lanes, as a result there is no advantage as previously and all traffic slows horribly. One day soon perhaps things will flow more freely.By the time I got off the Turnpike in Boca Raton, four hours after leaving my house it was painfully obvious i was no longer in Key West. These kinds of canyons make me feel like a country bumpkin. As soon as Icould I left the confines of the big city and headed west, as all young men should, this time on the Sawgrass Expressway headed toward the wilderness of the Everglades. First time visitors often think of the Everglades as being a cypress forest, dank and gloomy but it is in fact the famous River of Grass, a prairie fed by semi submerged waters flowing south.
From the expressway I took Interstate 75 also known as Alligator Alley, a $2:50 toll road to Naples on Florida's west coast. After an hour of droning around on multi lane highways Cheyenne and I found ourselves in the heart of the Seminole Indian Reservation.Snake Road is said to be the twistiest road in Florida though this may be an exaggeration. It does meander with some wide curves, though the speed limit is a modest 45 miles per hour and the Seminole Tribal Police tend to be rather active in these parts. Wild motorcycle rides are fraught with the possibility of speeding tickets.
Snake Road does meander nicely north from the Interstate toward the Seminole village.
My goal was to find a wide spot in the road to give Cheyenne a chance to stretch her legs, her first walk since Dagny Johnson Park early in the morning.
This is Florida's Big Sky country and it was quite beautiful with a light breeze and no humidity and temperatures hovering in the low 80's. Cheyenne took off, nose down along the grass alongside the road.People don't think of south Florida as cowboy country but there are cows here and up near Lake Okeechobee there are genuine cowboys too. The Seminoles have rodeos and stuff so I shouldn't be at all surprised if they didn't have horses and cowboys and all that as well.
The gate barred entrance to the nearby Seminole Village. Privacy is a big deal for the tribe and their homes are fenced off and out of sight to curious passersby. The casino operations in the eastern edge of the large reservation has funded modernization of the tribes facilities as evidenced by this communications tower:Seminole and Miccosukee homes (they are a tribal subset of the Seminoles) are built in this style on slightly raised land to minimize flooding.
Back at Interstate 75 the Miccosukee operate a gas station and souvenir shop/general store and gas prices are quite reasonable compared to other South Florida stations. Of course when Saudi Arabia joins the other revolting Arab states and goes up in smoke all bets will be off as to prices.
The Miccosukee have their own logo...
...flag......and police cars which were quite active ticketing speeders on the highways through the large reservation.Alligator Alley (I-75) goes on and on...
...and what looks like a hill is just a clump of tall trees on a dry hammock of land in the middle of the River of Grass.
Florida has a speed limit plus five law which allows some speeding latitude, though 80 miles an hour doesn't feel too fast on this long straight flat road. Signage is all terribly modern even in this wilderness. Highway 29 was my exit, the only place to turn south and join the Tamiami (Tampa-Miami) Trail, also known as Highway 41 which runs parallel to the more modern freeway.The Florida Highway patrol were out, though helping a stranded motorist here:Highway 29 is another long straight highway.The panther crossing signs are more of a warning to motorists not to kill the endangered cats, rather than as a warning against carnivores prowling.
My plans had been to turn back east on Highway 41 and take the Loop Road but I got diverted to a place I had never previously explored properly: the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve and State Park.