Friday, July 6, 2012

American Shakespeare Center, Staunton Virginia

Of all the Bard's plays I could have come across during my vacation in southwest Virginia, A Midsummer Night's Dream was low on the list I'd have chosen as my introduction to this unusual theater:



The Blackfriars Playhouse is designed to represent as closely as possible an indoor Elizabethan theater, such as put on the plays of William Shakespeare and his contemporaries.


I am glad they got this repertory company and it's home base organized when money (credit) flowed because it's hard to imagine such a venture getting funding today. It is magnificent.


Naturally indoor photography is not allowed except on particular backstage tours so I had to make do with photos from the brochure to attempt a feeble illustration of the remarkable interior of the playhouse.


The stage is a wooden rectangle projecting towards the seated patrons, a few select audience members, children in summer apparently, sit on stage and are the butt of jokes from the players, while others sit upstairs, first come first served when you walk in. Choose your bench and get an extraordinary view of the stage from above. The lights don't dim and there are no props. The actors wore colorful, elaborate Elizabethan costumes and gave it their all.


I am far too shy to enjoy audience participation and prefer to sit as far from the stage as I can, so I was safe upstairs...except the players never forgot us and made eye contact repeatedly with all members of the audience. It was impressive.


They start the performance with singing and prancing on stage to amuse the customers as they take their seats, then suddenly the performance starts, quite likely on time but I was too busy watching the singing and acrobatics to bother with worrying about their punctuality.


A Midsummer Night's Dream is an oldie but goodie, not dark of course, but amusing and silly and thus done too often in...midsummer. To see this chestnut played in Staunton was a treat, it was faithful to the script, no dumbing down of the poetry, and the players enjoyed their performance so much you'd have thought it the first not the last show of the Spring season.


They sucked me in completely and before the end tears were streaming down my face and I was gasping for air, in a way you would never expect at a performance of the too well known too well thumbed educational works of Shakespeare. A reminder that humor is not only universal but timeless.


On that basis I would say the ASC with this one play has me convinced they know exactly what the Bard was up to in his day, making people laugh and think and have a fun time out. In fact it saddens me to think of all those kids in school struggling to parse Elizabethan English with no opportunity to come to Staunton (pronounced "Stan-ton") to see this stuff as it was originally intended.


These players tour and do special performances as you would imagine so in the end they do about 300 performances a year. Imagine that, three hundred. I'd love to come in winter and sit with a coffee (mulled wine would be more authentic but alcohol is served inside so who knows) and shut out a gray winter's afternoon. Cheyenne isn't allowed inside and she staged a momentary protest the next morning outside the front doors.



American Shakespeare Company
By the way, the company recently sent a letter out to it's supporters lamenting the death of the upstairs air conditioner, a ten thousand dollar expense. It was no ordinary appeal headed by this quotation from King John:
There is so hot a summer in my bosom,
That all my bowels crumble up to dust:
I am a scribbled form, drawn with a pen
Upon a parchment, and against this fire
Do I shrink up.

I'm telling you these people live and breathe and dream the era they play.
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Thursday, July 5, 2012

Staunton, Virginia

On my second trip to Appalachia this year I found myself back in Staunton Virginia staying in this magnificent pile:



They take dogs and Cheyenne took to the place quite happily, traveling in spacious elevators and lounging on the carpet in the massive lobby while I read in an armchair. Not all Staunton is as impressive as the Stonewall Jackson Hotel.


It was all interesting to my Labrador, sniffing the cool spring air.


I liked the clean tidy sidewalks and flower displays.


The Victorian piles and huge trees added to the atmosphere of the historic town.


I liked the look of the enormous covered deck surrounding this home:


And the round turret on this one:


And the delicately painted fretwork on this one:


These row houses on a hill reminded me Solares Hill back home in Key West doesn't amount to as much dirt as seen here:


Imagine my surprise when I came across Woodrow Wilson's childhood home:


You and I thought he was from New Jersey, where he was governor but he was born here in 1856 and grew up a staunch Presbyterian.


That he loved segregation didn't prevent him from getting a Nobel Peace prize for helping create the League of Nations in 1919. Wilson remembered the election of Abraham Lincoln and met Robert E Lee with his father, a slave owner. Weird stuff.


I want to come back and check out the place properly.


Cheyenne and I wandered up and down hills enjoying the views.


As historic districts go this one was quite charming and unlike Old Town Key West, a distinct absence of chaos permeated the place. No smell of stale beer, no bars even.



There were eateries on Beverly the main drag and we took advantage of some Mexican food later, but I have to say it was pleasant to go for a stroll and see how the other half maintains their old towns.


I can't make up my mind if it would be boring or a relief from the incessant commercialization of Duval Street.


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Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Labrador Love

Cheyenne has been moving around this summer with me, from her usual Florida Keys haunts...


...to parking lots and rest areas on the the long drives Up North, with meals snatched along the way...


...with hours spent doing what dogs do in the back of cars, uncomplaining and patient...


...to be rewarded with walks in woods and mountains at higher elevations and thus cooler than those she is used to.


Trains don't exist in the Keys anymore, not since the hurricane of 1935 wiped out the rail line through the Upper Keys. Cheyenne found museum piece trains to be to her taste harboring as they do unconsidered trifles of discarded food.


And when out visiting historic sights, seen here at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, seducing a kindly young server who longs for a dog of her own, Cheyenne takes it as her due that she gets to participate in whatever is on offer.


She turned her back on magnificent views of the Chesapeake when touring General George Washington's home at Mount Vernon. She was waiting for me to complete my tour watching the house ready to spring to her aging feet as I came out of the historic home.


I got Cheyenne December 7th 2009 from the Key West SPCA where she was dumped that October by a family who thought her "too old" yet she continues to age gracefully, though she does from time to time show signs of slowing down perhaps just a little. She takes aspirin for morning stiffness and she sleeps a lot, especially after a long drive. But she also spends lots of her time watching my every move.


Putting on a little weight as she goes.


We have been together almost three years now and it's difficult for me to remember a time when she wasn't at my side. She's the main reason you'll find me driving a car, not riding my Bonneville.


She's got used to me leaving her in the evening on my way to work. She doesn't like it but she expects it.


In the mornings when I get home around 6:30 she's ready for the sound of my motorcycle arriving under the house, her signal for her early morning walk, she and I, alone, as she likes it.

Post Scriptum:

Happy Birthday America, my favorite national holiday, as today is the day I like to celebrate my own independence even though I actually moved across the Atlantic on October 22nd. This is also my 8th anniversary with the Key West Police Department. I had no idea to expect this when I applied to be a dispatcher eight long years ago but this is the most enjoyable fulfilling job I've ever had. Who knew I'd make a career as a dispatcher for the fuzz? Just as well, as we are short handed tonight, again and I've got some OT scheduled in the middle of the night. Happy Anniversary me.



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Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Mosquito Central, Key Largo

In the Keys it's no surprise to see boats buzzing about back and forth on the water. In a place where reefs and landmasses keep waves to a minimum you'd expect no less.


However one of the things I do like about Monroe County is how open the landmass is to visitors.


Pretty much the entire length of Highway One is a waterfront parking lot if you so choose.


This particular spot is on Card Sound Road just south of the county line at Alabama Jack's restaurant.


I forgot my repellent and was instantly covered in a blanket of little black bodies busily sucking my blood. I'm lucky in that mosquitoes don't give me welts and the itching goes away after a few minutes, nevertheless the attack was disconcerting.


I have no idea what this former billboard advertised.


Beyond the mosquitoes the views across the water were spectacular.


I love the look of a summer thunderstorm over unruffled tidal waters.


This being Monroe County the beaches are narrow and rocky and the dead seaweed is copious at the high tide line.


Ignore the rotting vegetarian and enjoy the light on the water, the weird twisted red mangroves and the silence.


There are no facilities in these roadside stops except for tons of trash cans.


And the highway has no signs pointing to these intimate little turn outs.


Chances are you'll have to back up, as I did, if there is mo traffic and duck off the road. In winter traffic is far more intense.


Many people come to the Keys to fish and they will stand all day at a buttress on a bridge dangling a line.


Rain was my portion further up the road and I passed a few bridges with abandoned fishing rods left to get wet as the storm blew overhead.


But eventually the rain fell behind ad sunshine tried to penetrate the clouds.


Small boats on large expanses of water.


Daily living in the Florida Keys.



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