Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Old Town

We reached the end of the lane and Cheyenne stood there wondering what next. If she is enjoying her walk she always goes to the very end of each dead end and there are a lot of dead ends in Key West and neighboring islands. Her indecision gave me a chance to snap a quick picture of a Christmas wreath which should have come down weeks ago.

"Should have " is a strong term but I was taught that everything had to be put away by Twelfth Night -January 6th, or bad luck would follow. I am not superstitious but I'll take any excuse to see people move on and clear up the special decorations. They aren't special if they hang around forever.

 

I liked these leaves, autumnal as the season requires yet vibrant.

Key West is frost free year round which is not to say plants don't retreat and lose leaves in the winter, but there is always some corner where Nature burgeons in these sub tropical islands.

We've had a lot of great gray skies lately and temperatures have been cool if not cold.

There's still plenty of green in the city.

The pineapple, especially when stylized is a symbol of welcome in Key West. Flagler wanted to get his rail link all the way to Key West a hundred and one years ago in part because he wanted to bring tropical fruit back to the States from Cuba. He wanted New Yorkers buried in snow buying his fresh Cuban pineapples. Welcome indeed!

I have noted on this page the problems one has with the trades in the Keys. I saw this rather attractive, high falutin' sign on the street. Had I the money and the need I'd hire them based on the sign. But then you always end up wondering if they will show up and do as they promise. My wife's cousin lives in the suburbs of Chicago and says she too has the same issues. Sweet of her to make me feel better!

I'll bet she could use tires like these, were she tall enough to be able to climb into this car. The good news is you don't have to drive very far in Key West on these doughnuts if you don't want to. More good news, the rubber jutting out will act as a bumper when an incompetent parker bumps your Jeep.

This cat was ready for Cheyenne to lurch but my dog walked blithely by intent on finding food scraps not scrapping with a feline.

Want an empty lot? You,d be surprised how many bits and pieces there are around town, unused and apparently not needed. I like to see them as a reminder that there's still a little room available on this crowded island.

A good walk a good walking town, well away from the bars of Duval.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Simonton Beach

I like to walk all the way to the north end of Simonton Street from time to time and stand on the little cement pier and look out over the salt waters of Key West Harbor. The beach is tiny and the sand is deep and the trees have all gone. Honestly, it's rather bleak.

The newspaper says the Pier House is for sale, no prices mentioned but the County Assessor says the property is taxed on an estimated worth of twenty one million dollars. I believe Kenny Chesney the country singer, bought a mansion in Old Town for nearly six million dollars according to my young colleagues. That makes twenty one million rather...generous? If the assessor woke up perhaps we could pave streets and treat sewage with fewer cruise ship passengers?

The Pier House was the first resort hotel on the waterfront in Key West and it paved the way for all the others you see today. I remember Mallory Square before development and it wasn't great, picturesque maybe but not suave. Then the Pier House started the drive gentrify. In many respects it could be worse, the waterfront is accessible, and perhaps before long there will be a walking trail all the way from Trumbo Road to Ft Zachary.

Key West is a working Navy and Coastguard base and from time to time we see reminders of that on the water.
 
Cheyenne has never learned to swim but she still likes to cool off by plopping in a puddle, or the ocean if she can find it. She had fun while I stood on the pier and threatened her with a fresh water shower when we got home.

She ignored me. The building on the beach is a public toilet and former refuge or squads of bums who hung out there. Now the toilets are closed and the city has talked about leasing the faciility, such as it is, as a beach concession. There was an eager taker but so far...nothing. Too bad, I'd have liked a cup of coffee but no dice. And a muffin maybe. That would have been restorative on our long walk. Seriously NO dice.

Nice - a recycling bin! Too bad no one knows how to sort recycling from trash, and if they did there was no adjacent trash can for the food filled styrofoam, and heaven knows hauling trash fifty feet is too much for some people. Please God make climate change a communist hoax, or else people around here will drown before they can learn to spell "recycling," never mind figure out how to do it.

This could be a really cool spot to have a drink and check the state of the water from a bar stool or table. The graffiti would have to go first.

Not all the bums have been kicked off and Cheyenne gave him a quick once over. Either he passed muster or he didn't smell edible because she moved on faster than I could take their picture together. Sleeping is prohibited after 11pm when the beach is closed to everyone and the US Constituion doesn't prohibit being uncouth in public when public beaches are open to all.

This was an entirely satisfactory stop for one member of the team. I also had a good time breathing in the fresh north winds.

You can launch a boat, go for a swim or sit in the sand here, wedged in a canyon between high rise resorts.

Another little Key West jewel, little used and little cared for. What do we want? Gentrification! When do we want it? Umm...not right away please?

Monday, January 21, 2013

Waterfront Walkabout

This is the 3000th essay I have published since I started this Blog in June 2007. I have no idea what significance that statistic has, as recorded for me by Google Blogger. Cheers!


It was dark when we arrived downtown after dropping my wife off at work. and Cheyenne leapt from the car like a rocket launched from a silo. She loves downtown exploration.
I was talking with a friend on the sidewalk later in the morning and Cheyenne laid herself down at my feet, chin on the ground, paws splayed in what I call her alligator pose. A pedestrian came by and got my attention asking tremulously if it was safe to step past my dog. Huh? Not over her but behind her as though my limp leash was holding back a baying hound. I am astounded by most people's lack of what the military call situational awareness. No clue what's going on around them. I saw this piece of artwork, photographed below, and I figured I am not alone in shaking my head at the way the world around me works.
Life has always been complicated for human beings, and though we like to think our lives have been made more complex by "labor saving" devices I don't think life was easier when ambitious people had fewer choices. Emotionally perhaps it was easier not to know what was going on across the world but part of that Blinkered approach to life came from the fact that physical labor kept the peasants going all day long. Sunday mornings they praised God and gave thanks for another week completed without catastrophe, which fear was ever present, and they girded their loins for another week of hard labor and no lifestyle choices.
Myth makers tell us the original human inhabitants of this continent lived in the Garden of Eden, and perhaps by comparison with the restricted lives of fearful European peasants it was a whole lot better but the philosopher Thomas Hobbes famously described their lives as solitary, poor, nasty brutish and short. So then the few appalled by the European Conquests reacted by over blowing the life of these "brutish" savages and they described them as noble, famously incapable of lying. With the benefit of hindsight I figure things must have been somewhere in the middle, a few good and a few bad and whole bunch of people in the middle muddling along. And I guess in that we are pretty much in the same boat today. I cannot imagine living on the streets and it never ceases to amaze me that people manage to do just that.
These reflections were prompted by my visit to the former Waterfront Market after a reader asked, some long time ago, for pictures. He's probably dead from old age by now but here they are, painted by a world class marine artist known by only one name, as all egomaniacal artists prefer to be known ('Conchscooter' could be construed as two names but I insist it be treated as one...).
I crossed paths with a serious city employee focused on his job emptying the meters. There was an appalling scandal a few years ago that sent people to jail for pocketing the coins, rolling them up and depositing them in the bank, over and over again. They were busted by a curious observer who saw a senior employee doing the menial work and wondered why. And the book keeping we are assured has tightened up so stealing tens of thousands of dollars (!) is no longer quite so simple. The best part is the cons were caught setting up phone scams from their jail cells while serving their sentences. Amazing stuff and proof positive leopards don't change their spots.
Wyland's artwork was impeccable of course, not that I know anything about art, murals or fish.
It just looks good, including the odd orange band around the top which seems to represent sunset as the building faces west.
There's lots of stuff to look at yet it doesn't look crowded.
I want to go back now and take more time to enjoy this astonishing aquarium on a wal..
Inside there hasn't been much movement towards the promised brew pub. Peering through the dusty windows all I could see was a construction site. I am looking forward to getting a beer here. The owner is expanding from The Porch pub and Two Cents, a restaurant on Appelrouth Lane. I like The Porch when it's not too crowded but Two Vents is too youthful and too pricey for my taste. I hope if this place happens we can eat value for money. Itll be tough to beat Finnegan's Wake, but I am a stick in the mud.
So there I was staring at this tremendous monument, top flight mural on the outside and a nice middle class drinking and eating jointin the making inside. Could be nice in Key West especially with the new hotel coming in alongside and street gentrification planned on Caroline. And there they are at Schooner Wharf rebuilding the part that burned down a good few years ago. All this energy and enterprise and while I was here this elderly couple slowly pedaled by on their tricycles. The old crone in the rear cooed at my dog as she stumped by and we exchanged smiles.
How is it, I ask myself that we haven't been able to give everyone a place at the table in this banquet that is America. I don't mean that everyone has to be an entrepreneur, only a died-in-the-wool Ayn Rand acolyte could make that argument with a straight face. I wonder how it is that we allow American corporations the right to have "personhood" in this country yet not allow them to feel an obligation to serve this country. It blows my mind that none of the cruise ships that stop in Key West have any American crew on them. How is it these cruise lines rely on Americans for their revenue, can have their headquarters in Ft Lauderdale yet not hire any Americans? I understand the flag of convenience rule perfectly, I just don't understand why we put up with this. It's our money they want.
I don't believe everyone deserves money, which is the line you'll hear from those same Ayn Rand disciples when they talk about leftists like me. I do believe though that everyone should have a chance to help build this great country. Someone has to do the janitorial work and someone else needs to run the company, but instead despised janitorial work is farmed out to shady contractors who hire foreigners, usually without papers, and they say Americans don't want the work. Is it really that simple? Perhaps, but I wager a living wage would help, respect for the work wouldn't hurt and a sense of shared commitment throughout the company would change the way our rather flat corporate future would look.
The service economy is limited in scope and we can't all be shuffling paperwork for each other. And at the same time I understand some people will evade work at all costs: you can't legislate ethics, though we seem to try all the time. I suppose I would like to see an economy based not on the lowest common denominator, the way Walmart hires people, but I would like to see something more ethical than the pursuit of money as the goal in and of itself. I believe it's possible and the more we go down the rabbit hole of profit at all costs the more likely there will be a correction sooner rather than later. The great thing is hat the American xperience is self correcting, the unfortunate part is that people suffer needlessly as the ship of state and it's corporations change direction.
I work for the government because I want job security, benefits and I like working for a boss who makes perhaps four times my wage. If the private sector gave me security, purpose and a sense of shared commitment I might have given it consideration. Just like you, I don't want to end up on a tricycle on the streets, even though I have no hope of becoming a great restaurant entrepreneur or a world class artist with the world at my feet. I jus want a chance to do a decent nights work fr a decent nights pay. And that is what I have. Is that too much to ask of corporate America?

Sunday, January 20, 2013

Getting Hitched

I like to shop locally and support local businesses and I don't mind paying more for the privilege. I used to find books online and go to Voltaire Books on Simonton Street to have them order the book for me. When they closed they told the newspaper most people did the opposite and they used to browse the store then order from Amazon so it's not surprising we have but one bookshop left. What amazes me is that it's Island Books staffed by the grumpiest bookseller in Christendom. I don't go there anymore so now I have to order online.
I recently had cause to call for a plumber who came on time, started the job, failed to finish and left a leak that I had to sort out by myself. That I wasn't charged was part of the business's inability to get anything done. I offered to pay for the minimal work he did but he never came back. I have seen this pattern over and over again in the Florida Keys. I went to a car lot to buy a car and the owner tried to sell me his mechanic's services for my ailing car that I wanted to replace. I went to Carmax and went back a second time and will go again next time as Carmax meets my needs exactly. We tried to buy a oat locally a few years ago. We nailed a price and when we returned to close the deal he had sold the boat and offered us a replacement at a higher price. We went north to get our boat.

It will become apparent after a few years living here that people don't come here to work, to build careers or to provide services. When you find someone who takes pride in their work you praise them extravagantly, keep them close and thank the gods for your good fortune. On top of that you learn to pray to whichever gods are available that your capable business owner doesn't plan to leave these islands soon. We rely on Oily's Car Service on Stock Island. Originally from Santa Barbara he runs an honest shop and does what he promises. Jiri is my rock when I need something done to my motorcycle and scooters. Originally from Czechoslovakia he used to have a partner who exhibited signs of Keys Disease through drinking and now he runs his shop himself.
My experience getting a trailer hitch put on my car has been more of the same. Hitch King on Big Coppitt did okay a decade ago but three years ago they hired a guy who had no idea what he was doing and I spent hours wondering what the hell he was doing in the trunk of the car. I took the "installation" elsewhere to be cleaned up and repaired! So for this car I dived online and found a shop in the southern suburbs of Miami that claimed to only install hitches. Forty one years of experience. I crossed my fingers and made a date.
I left home at 5:45 Monday morning and arrived at 8:25 five minutes before the shop opened but the owners were ready for me and fifty five minutes later, five minutes sooner than estimated, the job was done. I hitched my utility trailer later and everything worked perfectly.
The job cost $328.41 complete and unabridged. I drove three minutes off Exit 13 off the Florida Turnpike, which makes it about 115 miles from my house. That's just life when you live in an isolated community, often to get stuff done you just have to drive. Or you stay on The Rock, ride a bicycle or a moped and try not to think about what the wide world outside has to offer. I like Indian food - not available in Key West. Vietnamese? Nope. Mountains? World class museums? The Keys do what they can but these are small slivers of rock and the world is large. Luckily we are connected by a road so why not use it? Enjoy it even? Highway One is a world class tourist route and I like driving it, though I do prefer riding it actually.
Give them credit as they have been doing this for a while, he takes pride in this being his 41st year of installing hitches! I've been working at my current job eight years and that seems an age so my hat's off to them. I don't like driving pick ups so I always need a hitch to do my hauling in my little utility trailer. I'll be back next time I need a hitch installed.
Apparently a lot of car owners buy their vehicles and ask the dealer to install a hitch and I'm told they pay the price, not surprisingly. I was surprised to hear it as this place was easy to find online. I wasn't surprised that Miami area car dealers come here to get their hitches installed.
It's not a pretty spot this part of Perrine, but the two streets Cheyenne and I walked were absolutely packed with every kind of service you can imagine. Body shops, canvas shops, plumbers, welders outboard mechanics and I can't remember what. It was a gold mine of eager little businesses. I was jealous of the people who call these businesses local.
But I had the best drive home!

Saturday, January 19, 2013

A Walk Beneath The Clouds

It was hot and muggy Thursday afternoon in the Lower Keys and Cheyenne seemed happy to sleep in the house with me. She got restless as dogs do and started staring at me, her big brown eyes full of reproach, and I even though I knew it was too hot for agog in a fur coat I loaded her up and off we went.

The fact is I have myself have been feeling restless, due mostly to work where the youngsters are acting agitated as though seeking change. They too look at me with reproachful eyes as I push their shoulders to the wheel and expect them to keep doing what we do, because that's my job as I supervise the shift. They sigh and mumble how dispatchers get no recognition or respect, like spoiled children stamping their feet and crying "It's not fair!" while I, the unwilling nursery monitor stifle my exasperation. Raises, health insurance, paid time off, and an easy schedule and still the brats have the gall to complain. I'm better off walking my dog. The right wingers aren't all wrong when they moan about the modern work ethic.

It was sunny as we drove away from the house and under the blue skies I opened the sun roof in honor of the sun and enjoyed the fresh breeze blowing through the car. Cheyenne was right, it was good to get out of the house.

Cheyenne prefers urban walks but I laid down the law as this was my refreshment as much as hers so I decided it was to be a walk in the woods for a change, in nature and unlikely to meet people who are altogether too numerous in these winter months. She stepped on the trail, looked around and didn't think much of what she saw so she stopped and planted herself on the trail looking more like a bulldog than a Labrador.

I ignored her refusal to walk and kept going. Grumpily she decided a bad walk was better than none and soon she stumped past me making the best of a bad job. I liked my surroundings even if there wasn't any trash to root through, scattered by careless human beings.

These aren't summer walks when heat humidity and mosquitoes make The Great Outdoors uncomfortable.

In summer I figure she is likely to get thirsty but in winter...however this winter, when most days have been as warm as summer, outdoor boozing suits the furry walker. Besides she naturally prefers dark tannic water to the clean fresh stuff I put out for her every day.


These mysterious channels were cut by developers who saw this scrub land and figured, as one does, that there was money to be made. The problem was that...well the biggest problem were the mosquitoes. So instead of spraying Agent Orange everywhere they dug holes and filled them with fresh water and seeded them with Gambusia Affinis which is a fish that eats mosquito larvae by the ton, give birth to live fish not eggs, and swim with notable grace, they say.

Other problems overwhelmed a lot of planned development and all that's left are a few overgrown trails and these weird Gambusia canals.

By the time we got on the road black clouds were rolling in and it was clear a fast cold front was over us. It was obvious to me it was getting dark early so I turned my headlights on in the darkness, though not everyone seemed to think that was a good idea. In addition to premature darkness the front brought a little rain and blew away the mugginess, so Cheyenne liked it. I was glad to turn off the air and 65 degrees may not sound like much but it feels cold in these salty windy islands. And if not a real winter front at least it's something. A reminder of what winter used to be.