Latitudes

Van and Philip came visiting and we went to Sunset Key for lunch at Latitudes Restaurant. Out of the breeze it was lovely on the beach, the view across the harbor only slightly impaired by the necessary plastic screens. 

And the wind was noticeable as soon as we boarded the ferry at the Westin Resort on the waterfront. 

It was quite cool,  somewhere close to 65 degrees, but the boys, residents of Maine and former Key West residents were quick to admit they were feeling the chill.

 It only looked like the cruise ship was boxing us in to the Westin Marina. 

For some reason, even though the boat was empty my companions figured sitting outside was the thing.

 Nice views of the harbor...

 ...as we crossed the five minutes of water separating the city from the luxury island.

 Hoi polloi at anchor, next to Wisteria Key, known to locals as Christmas Tree Island, thanks to the Australian pines that flourish there. 

We were thrust into the lap of luxury, a place where drinks with umbrellas appeared as if by magic,  as we waited for our cheese plate first course.

Victor took our picture so I reciprocated while he was between plates, glasses, trays and orders. Latitudes is monstrous pricey (and romantic) for dinner but lunch is actually quite reasonable with a whole long list of sandwiches between fifteen and twenty dollars.  We lounged around talking and eating, and enjoying the sun, while Victor waited on us.

Our conversation centered around where we might like to live. Van and Philip like to move around, buying and selling homes and tasting life here and there. We last visited them in the summer in Boston and now they live in Portland up the coast. What makes for a desirable place to live was the subject of our meandering lunch time conversation. Phillip had an interesting take: he said the town has to have an edge, citing Boston as being too clean and middle class in his neighborhood. I started the conversation by expressing my confusion over the state of Key West, dirty chaotic and unorganized, and yet appealing perhaps because of that. "Decadence" Phillip said, saying a touch of the down at heel makes a town interesting. I need to come to terms with it, an ongoing process. The meal was excellent, the conversation was thought provoking.

I did kind of splurge with red wine, coffee and a suggestion we go for dessert as well. My vote for white chocolate bread pudding got nixed but the three flavored  creme  brulee  was just fine. Everyone else preferred the coffee flavored section, I preferred the bourbon but I didn't mind the mango in the middle either. 

Sunset Key used to be called Tank Island because the Navy built fuel storage tanks here (and never used them) but when the city sold the place for a pittance to the people that own the Westin it's fate as a sterile "Key West style" retreat was sealed. I have been round the island and it looks pretty much all like this, as seen from the restaurant area. The wealthy and the famous come here to get away from their tedious fame and vacation bum-free, chicken-free and reality-free. If you want to stay on the island they do have some cottages for rent for the well heeled masses. Guaranteed to be quiet, though noisy colorful Duval is but a 24-hour ferry ride away....  

Tank Island used to look like Christmas Tree Island does today, created out of material dredged from the harbor floor when the modern deep water turning basing was created in front of the city. Sunset Key has a pleasant little sandy swimming beach for the summer visitors when the waters are properly heated by the sun.

 And then we were back, and the crowds poured off the boat and mixed themselves back into the Key West street scene. I was sitting outside on the way back, such was the crush in the cabin and next to me there sat a grumpy looking dude dressed half way to homeless (worse than me) who carried some large bag and put me in mind of Pablo Picasso. He said nothing and didn't encourage conversation but he appeared from the depths of the island so you can speculate as you will on who he is and what his story might be.

At home, meanwhile, Cheyenne got on with the serious business of getting some beauty sleep.

A good day had by all, was Valentine's this year.

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Park Key West

The city commission has not been doing a brilliant job lately, but leaving that thorny issue aside for a day or two, the subject of parking comes to mind in winter when traffic gets heavy on this small island. Two miles by four miles with a bunch of salt ponds, an airport, a marina taking a large bite out of the north shore...doesn't leave much room for the 23,000 residents' vehicles and all those cars brought down by visitors. So parking is not only a job for some people in this city, it's also an issue.   

And, boy does it ever get people all riled up. Residents clamored because in winter they couldn't find parking within blocks of their homes so the city placated them by creating a residential sticker program. For someone like me who lives in the county and works in the city this has created quite the burden, which I side step by riding into town on two wheels...Only city  residents, with documents can get the sticker which allows them to park in spaces marked  "Residential." The number of other spaces available to everybody else offer not much free parking for the hard pressed worker bees who live in the county to save money. So then they have to pay tourist prices to park. 

 Or they can ride two wheels...Cheyenne was not too impressed by this example of free wheeling Art. Especially as the front wheel is flat.

I was walking Bahama Street and I saw this sign protecting the Episcopal parking lot behind St Paul's. What would Jesus do? Have them towed or moved on I guess judging by this sign, which never moves from this spot. 

St Paul's is a great landmark on Duval and I enjoy their noon concerts on the church organ too, when I am in town at the right time.

Then walking past the Hog's Breath, a popular bar I noticed this parking lot for the first time, convertibles or toy cars only I guess. Or perhaps cars with low hoods? Every space is precious even those covered by tree limbs.

There's a vast spacious parking lot off Caroline Street. known to dispatchers as the Steve Walker Lot (why, how or who I don't know), and I got to see it this empty because I was being dragged along by Cheyenne at a particularly ungodly hour of the morning. Normally it's packed.

I've seen these parking signs before, always threatening tows, and yet people still park in them and call the police department indignantly when their vehicle "goes missing." We didn't notice any sign, they'll say...Can you see the tow away warning?

Some signs are rather less obvious but hardly invisible. This one is behind Wendy's on Duval and thus  a toothsome place to leave your car. Don;t say you weren't warned.

Scooters and motorcycles do have an easier time of it but blatantly parking on the yellow like this may not be too bright unless you know someone or something that isn't obvious. I've seen people park on sidewalks which is almost as odd as paying to park in parking lots. There's lots of free legal street parking around town.

 And a sticker proclaiming the occupant's Coastguard status has nothing to do with parking. I wish it did though. That would be fun.

To park a ship like the Disney Wonder takes a fair bit of piloting skill, so I suppose all parkig problems are relative.

The best advice I have if you want to park a car in Old Town in high tourist season, is to expect to have to walk a bit. Which I find to be quite enjoyable, walking these streets; I do it for fun. 

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Cheyenne's Exercise Mat

I keep getting these pictures at work. My wife decides to exercise and pulls out her mat, plastic on one side and soft flannel on the other. No sooner said than done and Cheyenne parks herself on it before anyone else can use it. That look tells you it's actually her mat.

Even when it's wrong side up she stretches out on it, preventing any form of human exercise.

I have experimented with pulling out the mat when I am home alone with her but Cheyenne steadfastly ignores it.

When I am home, even with my wife she prefers to sleep on the tiled floor or sunbathing on the deck

I have no idea what goes through my dog's head most of the time. I know that her previous family preferred to tie her up and she lacked fur in some areas indicating to the vet she had to lie on hard ground, God knows why.

I am fine with her sleeping on the couch if she wanted to, and occasionally I try to induce her to come alongside me but my unsentimental Labrador is nothing if not stubborn and she knows what she wants. Which is to sleep on the floor at least three feet away from me.

When I'm not home this is how she sleeps:

I cannot help but think of the man who bound and beat his dog to death for the awful crime of snoring. He is supposed to go on trial soon in the Upper Keys. If snoring were a crime Cheyenne would be in a penal colony. Instead of on my wife's exercise mat.

 

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St Valentine, Bishop of Interamna

Traffic on the Overseas Highway is horrendous this winter. Some say it's the low cost of gas encouraging driving, others say Key West is too pricey for people to plan long hotel stays. Whatever the cause, perhaps just too much sunshine, the road has been packed.

I have not been keen to get into the intense traffic with my old Vespa, finding my more powerful motorcycle more suited to the cut and thrust of modern traffic.

But yesterday I said the hell with common sense: we needed flowers and dog food so off I went. And had a great ride.

Today is another Hallmark holiday so rather than repeat myself, let me repeat myself. My connection to

St Valentine.

 

 

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Scoots Across Key West

Scooters are, in my estimation the best way to get around town. But that may be because I have been riding for more than forty years and I still enjoy it. Having said that I have to accep that riding a motorized two wheeler, even one limited mechanically to 29 miles per hour us not to everyone's taste.

Indeed there is more than one way to enjoy getting around Key West, so why choose a scooter? Well, there are many rental outfits and they will give a helmet if you choose to take one. Please do, and learn how to wear it properly. You won't see many riders wearing helmets but you don't get the 911 calls when they go down and get flown to Miami ($30,000) to get their heads rebuilt at vast expense. Funerals are cheaper all round.

Scooters are useful, easy to park though not on sidewalks please as there is lots of free dedicated parking. You can ride a rental scooter, most of which are limited to 50cc engines on a car license which is actually a bit crazy but legal. You will be in the company of many like minded middle aged "non biker" tourists and residents who view scooters as useful, not as lifestyle accessories. Just try to remember these are vehicles on city streets and you are not in Disneyland, a fantasy place where adventure outcomes are certain and locals are paid to be polite. In Key West pay attention as you ride.

Yeah, you can try and squeeze extra performance out of your ride but 50ccs gives you a cylinder the size of a travel shampoo bottle so performance is not going to sparkle no matter what. Unless you spend money, and a lot of it, building a bigger illegal engine for more speed. The basic scooter is a automatic with electric start and as easy to ride as a bicycle. Easier perhaps.

Some people in Key West personalize their rides. You would never mistake this for a rental:

Scooters are practical, useful workhorses, especially in a town that's flat and only four miles long. Stock Island is usually out of bounds for rentals.

But they are also fun, and can bring out the kid in you. The responsible one we hope, but still a kid.

 

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