Ahh, the open road, the joy of riding for a goal, any goal, in the Lower Keys. I've set myself a challenge tougher perhaps than the search for the Holy Grail, and my results, after years of searching are mixed.
Horchata, handmade corn tortillas, puerco, arroz y frijoles, all genuine and available for less than $8- this is definitely not Key West! Ride a little, eat a lot-and its all good stuff!
My one big regret in Key West is the lack of decent Mexican food. Now I know that the term "Mexican Food" covers a multitude of styles and cuisines and that Mexico is about as unified on the food front as any other country as large and diverse. But the fact remains that a decent plate of food typically described as "Mexican" in my former home state of California is simply not available in edible format in Key West. 
Chico's on Stock Island makes a decent plate of food, not cheap and not Mexican as I know it, odd combinations of ingredients that bear only a passing resemblance to food that I might call "Mexican." 
Old Town Mexican Cafe off Duval suffers from the same illness, and if my friends demand to eat food from this place I limit myself to a quesadilla which even I can make at home, without screwing up too badly. Theirs tastes okay but not extraordinary.
Salsa Loca also on Duval is much appreciated by locals and tourists but I find their food uninspired and their karaoke style audience participation, and "gift giveaway" lotteries to be puerile and intrusive. 
They may insist they are offering Mexican food but if they feel the need to say so and if they identify their iced tea as "southern" punters should be smart enough to know what they will be getting in the garishly decorated garden restaurant.
The clientele is definitely locals, field workers and the like, the juke box plays banda and narco ballads and the waitress is shy and sweet and struggles with her minuscule English. "Coca diet" is the drink of choice but I like to indulge sometimes in a big (styrofoam) cup of horchata, the genuine article, sweet rice milk. Its perfect to wash down a warm plate of puerco en salsa verde, made just like a hungry field hand would approve.
Horchata, handmade corn tortillas, puerco, arroz y frijoles, all genuine and available for less than $8- this is definitely not Key West! Ride a little, eat a lot-and its all good stuff!
My one big regret in Key West is the lack of decent Mexican food. Now I know that the term "Mexican Food" covers a multitude of styles and cuisines and that Mexico is about as unified on the food front as any other country as large and diverse. But the fact remains that a decent plate of food typically described as "Mexican" in my former home state of California is simply not available in edible format in Key West. Chico's on Stock Island makes a decent plate of food, not cheap and not Mexican as I know it, odd combinations of ingredients that bear only a passing resemblance to food that I might call "Mexican." Old Town Mexican Cafe off Duval suffers from the same illness, and if my friends demand to eat food from this place I limit myself to a quesadilla which even I can make at home, without screwing up too badly. Theirs tastes okay but not extraordinary. Salsa Loca also on Duval is much appreciated by locals and tourists but I find their food uninspired and their karaoke style audience participation, and "gift giveaway" lotteries to be puerile and intrusive. They may insist they are offering Mexican food but if they feel the need to say so and if they identify their iced tea as "southern" punters should be smart enough to know what they will be getting in the garishly decorated garden restaurant.Chango Loco on Bertha Street in an architecturally uninspired building in New Town is a spin off from Salsa Loca, when the owners had a messy public divorce their chef went and started his own place (it was quite the enjoyable scandal for a while).
Service is chaotic and the food as uninspired as the building which used to house a famous Cuban location that had grumpy waitresses and huge portions, mention "B's" to any old timer and their eyes will roll and they will start to salivate at the memory. Not anymore.
Service is chaotic and the food as uninspired as the building which used to house a famous Cuban location that had grumpy waitresses and huge portions, mention "B's" to any old timer and their eyes will roll and they will start to salivate at the memory. Not anymore.I've even tried the burrito at Sandy's Cafe at the M&M Laundry on White Street, which turned out bland and watery, almost as bland as the building that houses this one too. How did they do that, reduce rice beans and meat to a flavorless soup? And they are a cheerful group of actual Mexicans serving the slop. 
There's more Mexican-ish food at another architectural pile, this time at Mile Marker 24, and it looks better in the sunshine under a bright blue sky.
There's more Mexican-ish food at another architectural pile, this time at Mile Marker 24, and it looks better in the sunshine under a bright blue sky.
Coco's Cantina on Cudjoe Key does make some really good Latin dishes, including a few quite excellent Mexican style "specials" from time to time. Coco's is another top rate eatery not actually in Key West at all. The fact that its quite close to my home is just a bonus for me! Coco's, Slice of Paradise and Square Grouper make the Lower Keys entirely edible, actually. 
However my hands down favorite Mexican place is run by a Nicaraguan family (Somocistas unfortunately!) 105 miles north of my home, in the town of Homestead and I love to stop there on my way to and from the mainland.
Its off Krome Avenue at 2nd street, near the Police Station and the better known Toro Taco restaurant which I've heard is quite edible. My little hole in the wall has no discernible name, no particular atmosphere other than Central American cheap (fussy sorts should avoid the toilet!) and killer plates of food for less than $6 after their latest round of price hikes.The clientele is definitely locals, field workers and the like, the juke box plays banda and narco ballads and the waitress is shy and sweet and struggles with her minuscule English. "Coca diet" is the drink of choice but I like to indulge sometimes in a big (styrofoam) cup of horchata, the genuine article, sweet rice milk. Its perfect to wash down a warm plate of puerco en salsa verde, made just like a hungry field hand would approve.
I go there often enough that I think they recognize me and on days when I'm not hungry I'll stop and buy a couple of libras of barbacoa to take home and reheat in the microwave when the hankering for real Mexican overwhelms me. Homemade Mexican, at home! How cool is that?
No comments:
Post a Comment