Saturday, April 26, 2008

Ramrod Key

My street, in response to queries:

We had a homeless dude on Ramrod Key last week. He approached me while I was launching my boat at the community boat ramp, a time when I carried no money. He looked lost and mistrustful like a stray dog, and I wondered what his story was but he had only one thought: alcohol. I think he may have arrived on a jalopy with Illinois tags that is still parked in the dirt across from the gas station (and source of beer) but he has gone, and I never did get a picture of him, wandering the gas station forecourt like the ghost of Hamlet's father.

Ramrod Key is a lump of land, a blip on the highway really at Mile marker 27, and I doubt most people with the wild light of Key West in their eyes even notice the place on their headlong flight south. Don't think that bothers me because I like living here and the fewer the better as far as I am concerned. I'm not actually the official curmudgeon of Ramrod Key but I do like to point out that I live on the least friendly street in the Lower Keys. My neighbors glower when I roll by and I don't even have loud exhausts on my Bonneville! Suburbia has its drawbacks.

Boondocks is Ramrod's greatest claim to fame probably, it's a tiki bar with a fried food restaurant and periodic events to draw in the punters. On a night with a north wind blowing I can hear the thumping band noises from my home a mile away. That's when I've got the windows open and the air conditioning off. The cool part of Boondocks is the miniature golf course, the only one of its kind in the Middle or Lower Keys, and like anyone who lives close to an attraction I rarely go to play over there:

Yesterday Boondoocks was holding a MG car show, which was pretty enough:I'm thinking it was a secret plot to decimate the population of elderly MGs in the southeastern United States. How else do you explain the offer of free beer for their owners:The negative about living in the 'burbs is that one's friends who live in the Big City 25 miles away tend to be reluctant to get in their cars and drive out to visit and tipple and find themselves subsequently unable to drive home. I enjoy the commute, not least because it gives me a reason to ride the Bonneville. When I lived in Key West I got rock fever, with nary an excuse to get out and see the bridges and the waters alongside Highway One. Besides Ramrod Has most of what one needs day to day. Plants:...quiet back streets, with my bicycle substituting ably for my Triumph:Not forgetting the best deli north of Key West for a good long ways. It's part of the Five Brothers empire, an "empire" of two stores, the other being the deli on Southard Street in Key West. This one is named rather unimaginatively, Five Brothers Two:

Open seven days and serving strong dark Cuban coffee which any self respecting visitor should tank up on for the half hour drive to Key West. Of course for those with "wet lots" ( houses on canals, with which the island is criss-crossed) there is boating too:For those without docks of their own the Looe Key Resort will provide a bed waterside overlooking the motel's own docks. Or better yet for those seeking a snorkeling experience Looe Key has a boat, what captain's call a head boat:

I don't pay a lot of attention to all this stuff, seeing as how I live here (not at the dive shop) but there;s plenty going on, on Ramrod Key: And if Boondocks isn't enough bikers (and cage drivers) can stop in here for live music from time to time:And booze in the other World Famous Tiki Bar:And, in between pouring the beer they advocate paying attention to motorcyclists, because we are everywhere, sometimes on pedal bikes too:When I decided to settle in the Keys it seemed obvious that one would want to live in Key West, in Old Town of course, caught up in the romance and beauty of the narrow streets, greenery and cute houses and all that. The reality is that Key west is noisy and cramped and crowded and romantic but I like riding my motorcycle, I like the peace and quiet of my neighborhood and I like having lots of shaded parking for my Bonneville, even if underneath my stilt house isn't a proper garage:Gas is around $3:75 for a gallon of regular, pretty much the same as elsewhere and living in Old Town within cycling distance makes sense if your only alternative is a cage. For a lot of people that convenience, and the excitement of urban life is enough. For everyone else God knows, there's lots of real estate for sale, on every street:
Prices aren't dropping though which is a little weird. Sellers still expect to get more than half a million for a two bedroom twelve hundred square foot house. I don't see many of them getting sold. Any of them, anywhere.

This is my neighborhood, well away from my employers at the Key West Police Department, far from Mallory Square and Sloppy Joe's, no jets circling overhead, and for whatever reason no barking dogs, squawking chickens or squalling children on my island. Its an oasis for me, with pizza delivery, a decent hardware store on Summerland Key, next to a video rental alongside a post office. What more could a suburbanite want? A fishmongers on Cudjoe Key four miles away and a couple of decent (and several indecently cruddy) restaurants.There's a bench on my street where the drunk hung out for a while but the neighbor across the way was raking it up recently, reordering the plants so we can ride by and admire the symmetry, not that I've ever see anyone else actually use it. It looks nice.Which should be enough for all of us.


When I'm feeling more than usually introspective I think about our neighbors a hundred miles to the south living their embargoed lives on the hidden island. It occurs to me that I live with more stuff within a long stone's throw of my stilt house than thousands of Cubans see in a year. For me ordering videos on Netflix (I have no television reception at home, by choice, neither satellite nor cable) or picking up a Mexican dinner at Coco's for half a Cuban doctor's monthly salary involves no more indecision than "what do I feel like?" Yes, gas is expensive, and a motorcycle helps but my wife and I with no children and no debt other than our (fixed rate) mortgage are worried but not strapped, like many other North Americans who have started to wonder what petroleum at $120 a barrel really means. Here in the keys it means tourism, sunshine and showing up for work on time. As always. I hope the equation remains as simple Up North where our tourism income comes from.

13 comments:

Anonymous said...

Well, I live in the most northerly city in North America. Gas prices have jumped twice in the last week or so. Currently it's about $4.50 a US gallon or $1.23 a liter. It hurts people's pocket books of course, but they still keep buying pickup trucks with $100 tanks that get 19 mpg. It's a personal point of curiosity with me to find out at what price point the die hard rednecks will abandon their pickup trucks for something with decent economy. The area around here is eminently hostile to bikes I'm afraid: poor roads with tons of potholes and loose scree and careless drivers like you've never seen.

With the rising price of food, fuel and everything else I think your desire for solitude in the keys will be satisfied more and more, much to the chagrin of those estate agents you mentioned in your entry.

D

Conchscooter said...

My chagrin too ultimately as I am all too well aware I am not, unfortunately an island. I feel rather like a spectator at an avalanche and I have no idea what I can do to make a difference. I never imagined that observing an impending catastrophe would be so...complicated.

Anonymous said...

I live on the gulf side of Ramrod Key and I'm on one of the nicest neighbors's streets. Everyone knows everybody and there's never a problem. Well, there were some kids doing some vandalism but they got caught and the police were called. Ramrod is equidistant from Key West and Marathon. It's quicker to go to Marathon for a Home Depot run than Key West. And the best restaurant in the Keys (Square Grouper) is right down the road.

I can get to Boca Chica on my V-Star in a little less than 20 minutes if I'm not stuck behind a school bus or snow bird.

Conchscooter said...

Square Grouper rates as decent, though not cheap and thus reserved for special occasions. Cruddy I shall pass a veil over. To each her own in this also. My neighbors do not wave, though some issue a shy smile and a woman known to several of our friends (!) averts her eyes when either of us pass. I have no problem with their shyness, especially as they aren't actively unpleasant. As I try not to be.

tim said...

Thanks so much for sharing about your island. Having traveled to Key west for years, I have NEVER driven - always fly, so I never get to see any of these things. I agree with your choice though, I think Key west is great for a vacation, but the noise and crowds would certainly get to me after a while. It seems you have the best of both worlds. Thanks again for sharing.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for posting this info about Ramrod Key. I'm coming down this week to stay there while volunteering for Habitat for Humanity on Big Pine (an alternative spring break trip w/my college). It was difficult finding any information though on your mysterious island! I look forward to checking out Boondock's!

Anonymous said...

Five Brothers is the place for coffee and food and a Cuban grocery. Ramrod's claim to cultural diversity.

Anonymous said...

I am visiting my brother on Ramrod next week. I am bringing 4 dogs with me...so maybe you will hear them. sk

Unknown said...

Just off the southern tip of ramrod key is an island with three buildings on it, no road access, and a single dock. Does anyone know what it is or who owns it?

Unknown said...

Thanks for a look into life in Ramrod.My wife, daughter and I are coming down in Jan, for a trial run at life in the lower keys. Going to leave the snow and ice,and adapt to a slower way of life. I'll leave the dogs to home.

Conchscooter said...

Bring the dogs by all means and the slower pace of life BS is only valid if you are a)on vacation b) retired. If you have a job it's still deadline country.

David Edward said...

thanks for the great pictures and 'tour'. I live off the beaten path also but at 6800 feet elev in the southern Calif mountains. will be traveling through the keys in about ten days, will stop for a beer and some Cuban deli, thanks for the info.

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