Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Key West Chickens

Every time I come across a group of tourists gawping at chickens on the streets of Key West, I replay a conversation I had with my wife some years ago.
"I think people ought to find something better to do than stop in the street and stare at chickens."
"People don't see that sort of thing that often," she replied gently.
"Really?" said I the fatuous one. " Are you sure?"
"Really." She rarely has to raise her voice to make a point as she is a lot more secure than am I.
"I don't know what the fuss is all about." I sniffed.
"Yes," she continued even more delicately. "Not everyone grew up in an Italian village. In this country people don't let chickens run in the streets."
"Nor should they, " said I, in order to maintain my habit of having the last word.That's the thing, I really don't think chickens should be loose on the streets, but luckily for all concerned my opinions haven't yet made headlines in the corridors of power, so for now the chickens are safe in their very unnatural habitats around town. Like the Post Office on Whitehead Street:Where the Postmaster takes a dim view of the presence of all animals except barnyard fowl apparently:If you are one of the adoring chicken fans that come to Key West and gawp you could do a lot worse than cruise by the Post Office on your rented moped. They seem to be there all the time:
Chickens have their devoted supporters, including one woman who calls herself the Chicken lady though her store on Upper Duval fell on hard times and closed. She keeps a store online I'm told where one can buy junque that properly expresses appreciation for the chickens.
It's not that I hate chickens, nor do I believe they lack personality or deserve to be ill treated. Indeed not, but chickens as a species do have some drawbacks. Lest you have never had the pleasure of growing up as an Italian peasant or as a Key West Conch let me outline them. They are noisy. Roosters (cocks as they are so delightfully known in British/English) crow at any time of the day or night that takes their fancy; the notion that they greet the dawning day by making a hideous racket is a fairy tale. Even if it were true there aren't many Key Westers who willingly rise with the sun.

Chickens root around in the dirt to find their food and in Key West they seem to do quite well. They are free range animals and thus live not confined to small spaces eating chemically laced diets. They enjoy digging holes in flower beds and scatter hummus and leaves across sidewalks. They eat insects and are often praised for this talent, for in the minds of some newer arrivals life would be a constant and losing battle with scorpions and roaches and other repellent insects, were it not for the chickens.The chickens attract tourists, which may be an exaggeration. I suppose it's possible some people might cancel their reservations were the chickens to disappear but I don't think that's an issue. It's true though that their outdoor lifestyle, sitting in trees:

mating loudly and violently:

and exhibiting their charming offspring:

...add to Key West's own particular charm, they say. If that is, you don't have to live with the little perishers. The chickens are protected from molestation like any other animal in the city and cockfighting, though very popular still in the Cuban community is technically illegal. You will sometimes see youngster steal chickens and ride off with them on their mopeds. A solid cockerel is a valuable fighter apparently especially when his comb has been brutally singed off...Weirdly enough chickens are not protected if you are capturing one for the pot. How you prove that I'm not sure; look sincere to the officer I guess. And yes we do get calls in dispatch about people, kids mostly, chasing chickens. And yes we do respond by sending out an officer.

The city has organized more than one program to capture and remove the chickens to a dude ranch on the mainland but the official chicken catcher complained people sabotaged his traps. he made more money selling t-shirts describing his job than by doing the job itself.

Cultural diversity is all well and good but I don't support cock fighting, and for my part though I am one of those people that is not automatically attracted to birds, I would rather let the chickens live peacefully on city streets than harm them. I stop for chickens when I am on the road. In all honesty I'd prefer to see these kinds of birds, Florida natives, exalted for the insect catching abilities:

Quiet, dignified , and undemanding, they are everything Key West's chickens are not. But they are still lethal to scorpions,roaches and all manner of other repellent insect life. Like all natives everywhere they don't get the respect they deserve, and tourists prefer the brawling chickens to the delicately stepping peaceful ibis and egrets and herons.

6 comments:

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

When I move to KW, I will eat a chicken every chance I get! Ha!

That will last the first time I have to kill and pluck them (I remember that as a kid, yuck).

Growing up on a farm, with chickens, the egg gathering was ok, but chickens are nasty animals and dressing the birds are, frankly, a pain in the proverbial arse.

Kano said...

Chicken Soup for the Soul! -I didn't know about the wandering chickens of Key West. It's those little details that keep bringing me back. -Over here we've got geese. They apparantly were once wild and stopped here on their migration route but they got lazy and decided to make this town (Salem, OR.)their permanant year round home. There's even geese crossing signs on several streets. They generally make a nuisance of themselves, leaving tons of droppings everywhere they go.

janna said...

Remember Ricardo from Eastern Delight? His father got in trouble when he first came to KW from Nicaragua for grabbing a chicken for the pot. He protested that he didn't know it wasn't allowed, in Nicaragua you can cook whatever chicken you can lay your hands on.
I love the chickens, they remind me of my childhood in an Indianapolis suburb called Mars Hill where many people were from the hills of Kentucky, and had chickens running around. They also remind me of the short time I spent living in a little unpaved pueblo in Mexico, where there were chickens, and which also reminded me of that Indy suburb where I grew up.
When I'm in KW the crowing gallos at 3 a.m. and the gentle clucking of the gallinas as I walk down the street definitely add to the ambiance. I wouldn't cancel my reservations if they disappeared, but the absence of that certain feeling I get from hearing & seeing them would be sadly missed.

Anonymous said...

Give me the ibis any day! My favorite tropical bird. So goofy-looking, yet so efficient!

Diana in Citrus

Anonymous said...

My neighbours keep chickens and turkeys. Can't say the noise bothers me much.

D

Conchscooter said...

I am notoriously noise sensitive. We have a new printer at work and it hums- drives me crazy!