There is something about food that is covered in a batter and deep fried that tastes particularly good, and even though such cookery wrecks the nutrition, Americans' favorite flavor I once heard it said, is crunchy. I am quite fond of the fish basket at No Name Pub, deep fried fish and salty crunchy silver dollar fries. Throw in a large glass of Yuengling and you can see why such food is not on the list. So, to avoid temptation and stay on my wife's good side i rode out to No Name Pub at a rather blisteringly early eight o'clock in the a.m.
No Name Pub has built itself quiet a cachet as being hard to find but it's not really, and commerce overwhelms all other considerations so as long as you start out correctly you will find pointers along the way:

No Name Key Pub is actually on the edge of Big Pine key and one has to wander through residential neighborhoods on the way, some of them quite fancy with large homes on large lots backed by substantial seawalls which merit an essay of their own:

Once past the curiously named Doctor's Arm subdivision the pub is unmistakable in all it's lemon yellow glory:
This place is packed in the winter months and it is famed for it's pizza which is okay in my rather uninformed opinion, but comes a distant second to the aforementioned fish basket. They sell the obligatory t-shirts and quite attractive they are too as they feature the parrot logo shown above. I used to know a woman who worked here and she said it was a highly desirable job among local waitstaff, doubtless because it's so popular and tips must be huge. Nevertheless as far as i know it's a good place to work and the I keep seeing the same faces on the rare occasions I visit.
The interior is the usual mixture of dark varnished wood, uneven wooden planked floors, bright neon beer logos and the odd irritating television. Plus there are the dollar bills:
Similar to the Cabbage Key bar on the west coast of Florida, No Name Pub has a long tradition of sticking dollar bills to every available space. No, of course I don't understand it, but that doesn't mean there aren't thousands of people apparently willing to deface the currency for a dubious shot at posterity: 
If you are looking for a well lighted place to eat No Name Pub isn't for you, it's dingy and crowded and full of atmosphere but even if you think you won't like it it makes a fine destination for an hour long ride out of Key West (or Marathon) for those willing to step outside their comfort zones and take a trip:
This neck of the woods is where I come to show people who want to see them, because curiously enough where the signs are, there frequently are the deer:
They ran around in circles for a bit and popped out suddenly as I engaged the clutch. Ha! thought I, what an irony were I to go down thanks to a deer, right in front of the warning sign. I made it onto the No Name Bridge, past the marina and bait shop:
The bard remarked that a rose by any other name would smell as sweet, but apologetically I choose to contradict the immortal one on that point. "Big Pine Key Pub" does not have the same ring as "No Name Pub" and I find it hard to imagine the pub would have lasted as long had it taken the former name. Nevertheless it is a fact that No Name Key is across a rather long bridge from the eponymous pub:
No Name Key rejoices at least for a while longer in the fact that it's residents enjoy cable television and phone cable service on their island but not cable electricity. This apparently has to change to accommodate a central sewer system, though that issue is up for debate. I thing electricity is one of the great benefits of the modern era and apparently No Name Key agrees as they most of them go to the bother of powering their modern appliances with generators in addition to less certain solar panels. This is not a community of eco-freaks off the grid. They just don't want power lines in their community which i find eccentric. Personally I'd let them sort their own sewerage out if they insist on living with their noisy smelly generators, but I am not the state of Florida, which is a good thing.
No Name Key's other claim to fame, aside form the electrical thing and the pub that isn't there, is that Cuban counter revolutionaries trained here in the 1960's to topple the Cuban government in the Bay of Pigs fiasco. Nowadays it's mostly a nature preserve and i wrote an essay a while back on a walk I took through there last spring.
I spent probably a quarter of an hour just lounging on the bridge, admiring the view and listening to the silence:

And then I rode home. I swear there was almost a chill in the air. It must be freezing somewhere Up North.
11 comments:
Willie T's on Duval does the same thing with the dollar bills. What's that about anyway? Retirement fund?
D
Tax free, too!
Thanks for the brilliant essay. I have fondness for Big Pine Key and Doctor's Arm area. Thanks for braving the deer, and in my youth in southern Ohio, it was when you actually decided to move did they dart in front of your automobile, so I can empathize.
The last time I was at Cabbage Key, it is equally darkly lit, which was several years ago. It is ironic since it is in my proverbal back yard, but lacking a boat, the journey is harder on a kayak. Obviously your Bonneville would have a hard time making it out there. :-) Did you stop there on sail?
Thanks again for the essay, it brings back many memories of family Yuletide gatherings and Key Lime Pie from No Name Pub.
Why do you throw deep fried fish and salty crunchy silver dollar fries in a large glass of Yuengling?
And yes No Name has a very quiet cache.
Btw the feds take income tax based on the dollars.
If economic times get hard and I were the owner, I'd bundle up those defaced Washingtons and carry them to the bank :)
Grr. Blogger spell check throws me for a loop once again!
Glad you enjoyed your trip to No Name Key, but I must correct you:
70% of our homeowners WANT electricty,and have been begging the County to allow us to pay for such. But, you were right, No Name Key most certainly is not "green" with most every home heavily using, and dependent upon, noisy, highly polluting generators and all homes currently being powered by lead-acid batteries. Perhaps one day we will be allowed to join every other Monroe County citizen in being allowed to have that great new modern invention called electricity.
Here's where I have the problem. Why buy on No Name if you want to be connected to the grid? We checked it out thinking hey! green living! five years ago when we wanted to move out of Key West. We like being connected to Keys Energy so we bought on Ramrod.
By your way of thinking, none of the Lower Keys should have electricty. Big Pine didn't get commercial electricty until the mid-50's, so by your logic, anyone who bought there, or owns a home predating this, should not be "allowed" to have electricty.
Times change, needs change. Should we all burn our cars and go back to horses?
And absoutley not, No Name Key is not green. 40 of the 43 homes have and use generators (which produce 3Xs the CO2 emmissions as grid-elec), Not Green my friend.
And, those solar-birds leave here for many many months at a time, their empty homes still produce solar electricity, but without grid-tie, it all goes to waste.
-Either way you look at it, pollution or waste are NOT GREEN.
-And for those dwindling few who don't want commercial electricity, they don't need to hook up.
-Heck, if you don't want power either, no problem, stop paying your bill and I guarantee you too will be "off line".
Here's the thing. In 2004 when i was looking to buy there wasn't any electricity on Name Name Key. I like electricity so I didin't buy there. We have a hundred miles of islands to choose from so why pick the one trhat doens't have the service that I want?
I have no argument that the lack of electrical cables leads to stupid waste but that is the situation there.
I did indeed come to key West in 1981 and didn't much likme the primitive conditions far from the bright lights that a 23 year old may crave. So I went to California instead ( considering the current state of health care "debate" I wish I'd gone to British Columbia instead. Oh well).
Honestly I don't give a shit about No Name, they can light the place up with year round christmas tree lights if they want, or they can vote not have electricity. No skin off my nose.
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