Thursday, July 9, 2009

Boca Grande Picnic

This is the best time of year to be in Key West in my opinion, because this is the time of year one goes swimming. Dolly and Robert invited us out for a picnic at Boca Grande Key, about seven miles west of key West. It was a massive organizational effort by Dolly as Boca Grande is entirely deserted, and we are Americans,, thus want for nothing even in Nature's most remote spots:There are a few small scraps of land that are more than just mangroves scattered around Key West, places that are naturally sandy and superbly isolated. Boca Grande is on the way to the Marquesas Keys, and ultimately the Dry Tortugas. The beach at Boca Grande is the farthest west of the string of small mangrove islands known locally as "The Lakes" a broad basin of shallow water surrounded by islands. On this chart Key West is off the screen to the right and the Dry Tortugas to the left:

Because we all live in the Lower Keys it was easier to simply rent a boat off the docks behind the Half Shell Raw Bar (305-295-BOAT if you feel inspired) than to drive our own skiffs 25 miles just to get to Key West. The docks were looking good as we pulled away: We also had an honored guest on board, Robert's 84 year old father, a man who loves to take cruise ships in retirement and who has been all over the world as a result. However he was rather apprehensive about a small boat trip to a deserted beach as he has several artificial joints which make him vulnerable to falls. The rental boat was a much more comfortable craft than our crude skiffs for him to make the journey:
Robert senior is also prone to getting melanoma, "My Norwegian skin!" he lamented, so he had to stay covered up and in the shade at all times. The logistics of this trip were remarkable, and Robert and Dolly pulled it off as we shall see...Robert enjoys sharing his knowledge of the water and the wildlife and we took a pause in the middle of The Lakes so his father, a massively curious man, could catch up:

The ride to Boca Grande took about forty minutes at the rental boat's relaxed pace, and soon enough we could see the thin sliver of sand, the full moon high tide was busy dropping even as we arrived and there was a tremendous current off the beach. We had our choice of location and Robert beached the boat whereupon we unloaded a mound of gear that soon transformed itself into an awning, chairs, ice chests, a Weber grill and so on and so forth. The awning was superb as there was a light southwesterly wind and in the shade we found ourselves to be refrigerated to a perfect temperature, and the lack of fresh water meant there were no bugs either:
We weren't alone but there was lots of room for all:

And I have to say we had to be the best equipped group on the beach, with the grill turning out hot cheese sandwiches, with my wife's Greek salad for garnish: And Robert is no slouch when it comes to enjoying the fruits of his own labor (he grills pretty much at the drop of a hat): And when I said well equipped I meant it. Dolly and Robert have this excellent ice cream churn. They found it at a yard sale and they use it from time to time and it never ceases to amaze me. It consists of a double walled bucket that gets frozen ahead of time and then one adds a mixture of one's choosing, in this case cream and eggs and milk I believe with some Ghirardelli chocolate, and then hey presto! with just a little churning out comes delicious ice cream, a full quart of the stuff:
And there we sat, in the shade, fanned by the breeze, hogging homemade chocolate ice cream.
One has to pity the poor plebs who came less equipped...
Though they seemed to having fun too, I have to say. It really doesn't take much to luxuriate in this deserted places, all sun sand and sea, just like the travel brochures tell us. Robert senior got into too, he marveled at the ease of the picnic and his pleasure was obvious. We youngsters took to the water, drifting past our campsite in the rushing tidal waters, stepping onto the beach further down and walking back upstream to do it again:
It was like a water park. Even though it hardly resembles it at all, this is in fact real life and we found time's winged chariot rushing us along and soon enough we had to stop this sybaritic playfulness and pack the boat for the return trip:
We got Robert Senior safely ensconced in the shade and off we went:

Robert's Dad carries his 84 years very well, but his mind is extra sharp and he exemplifies the notion that a sense of curiosity will keep you youthful. He engaged me in extended conversations about politics the economy and religion in a way that was non confrontational and engaging but also open to other points of view. I felt more like I was in a Greek taverna a couple of thousand years ago engaged in Socratic dialogue than being a bum on a Key West beach. He spent his working years as a financial adviser in Manhattan, and he had some choice remarks to make about the modern ethics of the trade. A confirmed Republican he voted for President Obama and thinks he's doing the best he can in an impossible situation. A religious skeptic, or a pragmatist as he put it, he faces old age with equanimity and a twinkle in his eye. He made the picnic for me, and I was as apprehensive about meeting him as he was about riding the small boat. I've known his son for twenty years and the old man's approval seemed important. He called me a philosopher and slapped his knee with delight whether we found a point in common or in opposition.

The return trip was the usual sedated ride back to base, everyone filled with food and sun and exhausted by water exercises:

We stopped by Robert's workplace at the national Marine sanctuary offices on Truman Waterfront and I got to snap a picture of the USS Mohawk still decorated for the Fourth of July, a reminder of my tour aboard last winter:
And in closing the view of the Key West waterfront as one crosses the harbor: So, remind me, why is it people flock to Key West in winter, when the waters are cold and the seas are rough? Long may they continue to do so, I'll take summer over winter any day.

14 comments:

irondad said...

I like the "superbly isolated" part. And to think, we usually just roast weinies over a fire. I've decided to make an effort to become more sybaratic in the future.

Very intriguing and enchanting post, you philosopher, you!

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Conch:

This island hopping adventure generated more questions in my mind as opposed to painting the most of idyllic scenes. I'm sure you guys had the weather in mind, but the rental boat looked somewhat sizeable (20 feet or better). With the tide going out, is there a risk of getting stuck in the beach? I saw what appeared to be a sad-looking sailboat on its side. The lower hull looked like this was a permanent addition to the seascape.

Do you ever worry about sharks? I would. I was surf casting off the beach on the Outer Banks a few years ago (in October) and waded out into the delightfully warm waves, using fingerling mullet as bait.

Then one morning, I found what appeared to be a 900-pound shark washed up on the beach. I stopped wading.

Fondest regards,
Jack "r" Toad

Linda Byrd said...

Ahhhh! Thanks for the mini-vacation -- I needed that!

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

Great post. Another hidden gem of the keys. It appears on your chart Boca Grande Key is on the edge of a shelf and the water depths drop off.

Interesting enough, there is a Boca Grande here close to Fort Myers, but no where near as isolated (you can drive to it). But you probably know, you lived here for a bit, didn't you.

Lignumvitae Key and its house next? Or did you already go there?

It is good that see a man at 84 with a sharp mind. I can only hope I am that well off at that age.

Be well,

Jeffrey

Conchscooter said...

I needed it too actually. I'm trying to picture a day on the water with riepe and irondad and all I see is death , mayhem and sadness.
What is with this irrational fear of sharks? Don't drag dying fish behind you on a spear, don't swim between dusk and dawn, get out of the water if you actually ever see one (a feat that would take riepe a week between thought process and action)and if you think God really gives a toss about your pampered First World existence say a prayer. Then enjoy the swim if you have any energy left. Or stay home and leave these glorious waters for me to enjoy without the noise of your execrable taste in music polluting the air.
Where was I?
Oh yes anchoring off the beach. Run the snout of the 25 foot boat up onto the sand and keep it there with the engine until your slaves (passengers ) have unloaded every last object then toss an anchor off the back (stern) into the currnt and one off the bow (front) and hold tghe boat in a foot of water againsty the flow of water. Then give riepe a long lecture about how caymans are much more dangerous than sharks but riding a motorcycle is more dangerous than either.
It was lunchtime when I started this reply and it's now well past tea time.
Gotta go.
Oh waiyt the grounded sailboat was probably abandoned at anchor off Key West and got blown onto the flats (shallow water). If you send down some extra tax money we'd be happy to get rid of it, and all future such wrecks and eyesores. Even boat owners tend to exhibit landlubberly traits like irresponsibility and stupidity from time to time.
It's now past my bedtime.
Bye for now.

Unknown said...



Mr Conchscooter:

you truly live in Paradise. Is it possible to set up our own community on one of these islands and just live there.

Can that sailboat be salvaged ? seems a shame to just discard it.

as for the snowbirds, imagine a place entrenched in ice and snow during a snowy December, KW would be a place made in heaven even with the rough seas

bob
bobskoot: wet coast scootin

Big Ears said...

I too favor the summers of Florida. I think it comes from being raised there-- the fond memories of lazy summer days: swimming, fishing, boating, hiding in the shade, and elsewhere... Few tourists... "low" season.

I don't care if it's hot-- the A/C, shade, and water all still work. Besides, who wants to go to a chilly beach. It doesn't have to be much below 75 to be unpleasantly cold in the water.

Now living in a more northerly climate, I too seek relief from the cold with a winter trip down, but it's not the same. A winter trip makes me a tourist- a visitor to my homeland, and makes me want to come back in the summer... or worse: to come back for good...

Conchscooter said...

Boca Grande and Cayo Costa on the West Coast of Florida are excellent locations with much more sand than you would ever find in the Keys and some of the anchorages are remarkably deserted considering the density population around Sarasota/Venice/Punta Gorda. Rich people buy their own islands (he Spottswoods are selling theirs off the end of my street for 18 million real (not Canadian) dollars. However its an absolute bitch to ride even a Bonneville on water if you get the impulse to go for a spin. The salt water ruins the mufflers.
Now is an excellent time to return to Florida as it seems more people are leaving than arriving. The aquifer thanks them.
Repairing a ruined boat is enormously expensive and time consuming. With the feeble economy rightg now there are lots of bargains that are afloat and ready to go if you have cash.

irondad said...

Dear Conch,

Thank you for your kind words. In fact, these are some of the nicest sentiments directed my way that I can remember in recent times. It was sweet of you to include my bosom buddy Mr. Riepe, as well. I find it very gratifying that somebody actually cares enough to look under the surface and see the real me.

For the record, I am not afraid of sharks. Some of my dearest friends are either sharks themselves or display the qualities of sharks. Friends such as yourself. I don't resemble any sort of marine creature that sharks would want to eat and the sharks know not to mess with me.

To my dearest Jack,

You don't need to fear sharks, either, unless there are more than two. As you know, ordering "family style" off the menu just isn't economical unless there are three or more individuals.

Back to Conch,

If I still speak Spanish like I claim to, doesn't Boca Grande mean "Big Mouth"? Hmmm, how interesting.

Allen Madding said...

Irondad - his proper name is "reep" and he prefers all lowercase.

Conchscooter - the desire for Key West winters is rather simple to explain. What you consider frigid temps that force you to fire the furnace (68F), we consider fall. Those of us who have endured the annual temp drops below 20F and riding motorcycles in electric gloves to preserve our digits think Key West winters are spectacular. Thus why all the mainlanders call your home paradise :)

-Peace

Allen Madding said...

reep - dont fear the sharks. Despite what you read or hear in the news about people being attacked by sharks, I have yet to read anything about sharks attacking large mammals that are beached. Usually the large beached mammals are accosted by small children trying to push them back in the ocean long before a shark has had a chance to bother them :)

-Peace

Anonymous said...

What a great day it was and your pictures tell the story.

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Conch and My Other Esteemed Friends and Colleagues:

You bastards will be on my mind as I drift from the arms of one pole dancer to the next during my 8-day motorcycle road odyssey through Tennessee next week.

I may be fat, but I am wiry.

(Some day I am going to fix it so we all get to spend a weekend together -- in Key West.)

Fondest regards,
Jack "reep" Toad

Conchscooter said...

Oooh they are bittter aren't they with all their talk of furnaces and big mouths and pole dancers. So sorry I'm sure.