Thursday, August 13, 2009

Horse Country

Continuing our Tour Of Florida 2009 my wife and I left Ocala Monday morning heading west for Cedar Key. We took smaller county roads across Levy county through what is horse raising country: This is another of Florida's little surprises; a corner of the state that tries to look like Virginia. The countryside around Ocala is mostly low rolling hills covered with pine forests and where human beings have imposed themselves, classic post-and-rail fences to keep those pesky horses where the ranchers put them:
The roads continue to run straight and true, with occasional bends and lots of uninhabited open space. These parts of Florida are not the least bit tropical. This is the land of oak trees, Spanish Moss and sandy soils. In summer it gets up into the 90s but in winter it's not unusual to get frosts that mess up citrus groves and have people putting away their motorcycles and surviving by use of cars. Horrors! I find these landscapes quite enchanting even though some people argue that north Florida is more like Alabama or Georgia, this is still the Sunshine State:
This is definitely the Bible Belt and wherever two or three trailers are gathered in His Name, then someone will promptly put up a church:The other reason to hang out here is farming or ranching, so on either count I am not really a suitable candidate for life in this part of the world. I like looking at the broad open fields, and the trees dotting the horizon, but I am glad I have a home in the heathen Florida Keys:I don't know how or why horses got started here but they have been an economic mainstay for Ocala for long enough that the city has erected statues of multi colored horses all over the town as civic Art. There are tons of ranches out in the country and tons of them are for sale like this one:I've lived on dirt roads and personally if I never have to commute down a white gravel road again it will be too soon for me. Yes I know it looks nice what with those tall pine trees lining the road but dust gets everywhere including in your air filter and tires and suspension wear out. It's ruinous I tell you:The horses grazing placidly don't seem to mind that their farm is on the market:
I found the countryside west of Ocala to be prettier than that to the east which is odd because to the east lies the mass of the Ocala National Forest. However, seen from the broad expanse of the paved highway which drives through the middle of the forest, there isn't really much to see. Perhaps a Triumph Scrambler might be useful around there to explore the dirt roads and sandy trails. The country road driving east from Ocala is smooth and straight and easy:
As we continued west toward Highway 19 we came across this sign:
Not only had I never heard of it, I doubted very much it was named for the German poet. A quick Internet search revealed the truth; it was named for the man who sold the land to the State in 1992, a J T Goethe. It consists of 53,000 acres in two separate pieces and includes what the State calls 15 natural communities. We drove through this piece in less than ten minutes. Which is I suppose a lot of pine forest one way and another.
Oops! Wake up! Bend ahead!
And there is Highway 19 steaming north in a dead straight line, all four lanes of it towards the state capital, Tallahassee. We had to go up a short way then turn west once more for our next destination: Cedar Key, an island some people like to say looks as Key West did decades ago.

8 comments:

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

I had the pleasure once of attending a wedding at Rainbow Springs in Ocala (close to the fabled Silver Springs).

It was crystal clear water, with that blue green bottom. Muy Bonito.

Ocala reminds me of close to where I grew up as it looks like horse country from Northern Kentucky. So much so, I thought at times a giants hand had scooped up parts of my friend's farm and placed it into the sunshine state. The only nuances of difference would be a clutch of live oaks or a struggling palmetto tree.

I am looking forward to the Cedar Key post, as I have never been there, but have been told about it many times from a friend that likes to land his plane there.

Be well,

Jeffrey

blameitonbuffett said...

I very nearly wet myself this am reading the blog, and that hasn't happened in a while: "This is definitely the Bible Belt and wherever two or three trailers are gathered in His Name, then someone will promptly put up a church"...

Nice play on Mathew! And it certainly is true isn't it? In college I used to take the "long" way back to FSU up 19 just to occasionally change up the monotony of I-95, 295, I-10 West. It is indeed beautiful country and definitely no shortage of places to raise up and get your God on should the spirit come upon you...

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

Speaking of obscure places in FL to visit (but do not speed, ask my wife)- Punta Gorda, Arcadia, Wachula, Zolfo Springs, and Lakeland - and you visit them all by taking 17/35.

blameitonbuffett said...

I had a delightfully drunken afternoon in Wachula back in the day... very nice springs there.. from what I recall...

Conchscooter said...

In the month of May 2008 I took a Bonneville trip to a conference. Typing any of the following dates in the search function at the top of the page will show other parts of the interior of florida: 3rd, 7th, 11th, 12th. Alternatively click on May 2008 and in the archive on the left.

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Sir:

You would make a wonderful tour guide on the cable channel... Pointing out how most of northern Florida does not look as tropical as southern New Jersey, and must even get by without the former's fame for summer tomatoes and corn.

I have driven (not ridden) through northern Florida twice. I am amazed at the skid marks on the road and the small size of the fragments modern cars can be reduced to in the accidents I witnessed there.

Will your trip take you through the paradise of Wikiwatchi, where nearly topless mermaids swim around breathing through garden hoses?

What time does the next tour leave?

Fondest regsrds,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads

Conchscooter said...

I am giving nothing further away.

Anonymous said...

Ah - I wish I'd known you were heading to Cedar Key - you were on;y a hop, skip, jump and one county away! We would have been happy to meet you, toss you on our boat and run you around a bit! And, yes, west of Ocala is much prettier than east of Ocala.

Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Diana