It's the time of year when people start compiling their year-end lists and Christmas sentimentalities and New Year's resolutions and my mind strayed back to my last ten day vacation in Italy. I arrived in time for a family gathering at my sister's place and got to scarf traditional Umbrian pork sandwiches. Food is a big motivator I guess when one thinks back to the past. These are sandwiches made from a whole pig stuffed with rosemary and roasted on a spit. The meat and crispy skin are sliced and stuffed inside kaiser rolls, but there is no lettuce mayo mustard or anything else, just meat and bread in a true Italian sandwich. Wash down with a glass of local red wine and repeat.
My sister opened her shoe box of old pictures and we pored over the memories. She (and her twin) are ten years older than me which makes her a rather startling 62 now. After a lifetime spent in Italy she speaks English with a rather weird vocabulary, stuck back in the 1960s when she last lived in England, and she sounds like an extra from an Austin Powers movie. For some reason we speak English with each other, even when we reminisce about our Italian childhood:
I recall this vacation on the Island of Ischia off Naples. The woman in the picture above, Elizabeth is on the right in the picture below, while her twin, Patricia has the bee hive on the left. I am naturally in the middle with the short black hair and an expression that wouldn't melt butter. I came down with a fever and remember being stuck in bed in some palatial Neopolitan hotel room while they took time off and went to see the movie Dr Zhivago which dates the picture around 1965. We have spent a few Christmases since then.
A few years later I was whisked out of school by my impetuous family and flown to see the erupting Mount Etna in Sicily, a dramatic event that buried villages and made headlines. My father in his execrable Italian asked a local where the lava was, which set the poor peasant off. "La lava, la lava!" he shouted waving his arms around. "It's everywhere!" And it was. Of tourists there were only us dicing with the hot lava flows in our rental car driving wildly around the mountain slopes. I have always enjoyed renting cars and driving ever since those experiences in my childhood. It is a point of honor for me to dice with death mixing it up on the roadways with the locals wherever I go.
My sisters were always fans of the less-is-more theory of life and while I was seeking horsepower on two wheels they contented themselves driving what have become incredible status symbols and fashionable icons- Fiat 500 automobiles. They were air cooled 500cc twin cylinder engines producing 17 horsepower capable of moving them at speeds up to about 60 miles per hour supposedly, on the flat with a tail wind. They were dead cute though. The canvas roof rolled back and there was a full bench seat on the back of the car. It was ten feet long, four feet wide and four foot tall such that when you stand next to one today they look tiny:
My wife has decided she deserves one of her own and she is hoping Chrysler, now owned by Fiat gets a move on and starts importing the Nuova ("New") 500, an entirely modern, speedy and desperately cute car based only vaguely on the looks of its predecessor. Nostalgia strikes again:
My childhood buddy Giovanni is in the throes of new motorcycle-itis and he wrote to me mentioning his desire to replace his five year old BMW 1200RT with something new. It's a great bike, a flat twin tourer that is as dry in a rainstorm and comfortable as any motorcycle built and he frequently rides the length of Italy on the freeway at 120 miles per hour. Yet he has a hankering for something new and he doesn't know whether to buy a water cooled four cylinder replacement in the 1300 version or whether to stick with the air cooled flat twin. He also has a hankering for change and he saw a scarlet Moto Guzzi Griso in the BMW dealership on offer for a smoking deal. It was in the dealership when I was in Italy last summer and Giovanni checked it out at the time. I hope he strikes a deal, as i would love to ride it next summer when my wife and I return:
In fact I wrote back and said he should get the Guzzi for a back up, and for when friends come to visit so they have something to ride. I still have fond memories of my 1200cc BMW four cylinder, the fully faired S model that I rode in the mountains last year:
I'm looking forward to more of the same this summer with my wife who is already planning our vacation. Umbria is as far from the flatlands of florida as you can imagine:
If you're going to break speed limits in Italy you need to know exactly where the speed traps are, like this Autovelox on the Valnerina Highway between Terni and Spoleto. When I was a kid riding these roads there were essentially no speed limits. I think back to the incredible freedom I had riding these mountain roads with no cops, no speed traps, no one to even enforce DUI laws- it wa sall down to me and my good common sense on my 100 mile-per-hour 350cc twins. I mad eit through unscathed amazingly enough. Nowadays the countryside is littered with these automated speed traps:
It photographs your tag and sends you a speeding ticket to your home. Points are deducted later from your license and no court appearance is necessary. Welcome to the Nanny state! However health care is free and rated as second best in the world (behind France) by the World Health organization. The US rates 37th on the same scale behind Dominica and Costa Rica, just to make us all a little embarrassed. Riding a BMW K1200S through the Tuscan Alps was a blast. Even if it rained cats and dogs the last day. Memories are made nostalgic by a little adversity.
How I came to live in Florida from the mountians of Italy is a long and winding tale full of nostalgia, and I feel lucky to have made it.
I feel a little embarrassed that my wife and I have jobs, health care and a happy dog to end the year. A national health care system seems out of reach, as does the ever popular hope for world peace. I can only say it has been a long strange windingly tortuous journey thus far and I remain somewhat surprised to find myself still alive and riding at the ripe old age of 52. I hope you are so lucky. The important thing I find as I grow older is to take notice and remain curious. I fear life is short enough as it is. Holding on to the good memories is important. giovanni's 14 year old daughter Eleonora hasn't figured the lesson out yet and every time she forced to sit at table with her elders and betters is an act of torture. She is too young to learn from our mistakes.
May your table always be full (and may your children always be grateful).
12 comments:
Amen to your commentary!
and...
FIAT, Fix It Again, Tony.
The brand failed in Canada, rust
in the bodies and lack of emission controls as well as mechanical
problems. Sort of like Chrysler these days; it will be an interesting marriage. Happy New Year!
Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino.The new Fiats have an image problem on this side of the Atlantic but they are nothing like the old ones.Fiat is financially okay and developing comopressed natural gas alternatives to gasoline. I am hoping they import the Alfa Romeo range as well as they are some startlingly interesting cars.Alfa = Anonima Lombarda Fabbrica Automobili.
Well, never mind, we'll probably be back in ox carts by then and reminiscing sadly about the internal combustion era.
Just wanted to say that I have followed your blog ever since the wonderful week's holiday(as we call it here)my wife and I spent in an Olivia St duplex last February. We fell in love with Key West, went to the theatre, wanlked every street and, wanting to keep up with what's going on down there, I googled Key West on my return, which brought up your blog among many other links. I've now rid myself of all the others, as your stories and photographs do the job for me all by themselves and make us vow to return. Keep going and have a happy New Year in one of my favourite towns on this planet
Ah, Alfa Romeo... Twas my dream car when I was a young, single Yuppie. I test drove one owned by an Air Force pilot (no surprise there!) and almost bought it. Gorgeous lines, dark red color, tan interior as I recall... Then he showed me the maintenance and repair requirements to keep it in running condition and I realized that even with my decent income, I couldn't afford one car in the shop and one to drive. Thus do dreams die...
Eventually I ended up with a BMW convertible which has been cute and practical (comparatively) and still runs well after 13 years, but I still lust after the Alfa.
Diana
Umbrian pork sandwich sound very tasty. Memories of food bring about a very good feeling indeed. I to wish that Chrysler/Fiat would get with it and bring the 500 to our shores. I'm not currently in the market for a car, but I'm sure the first couple of boat load's will have a hefty fashion premium $$$ on them. Maybe when I am ready to buy they will be at a good price. Thanks for sharing your Memories. GAW
Italian healthcare is not very good. I saw it first hand when my mother in-law was treated for cancer. In fact, it was down right primative - at least in the Naples area.
I am not doing any end of year lists this year but socialized health care was on one of the ones I threw away. We aren't in the markeyt for a car either but if my wife gets a Fiat 500 I want an Alfa romeo. Giovanni bought his son an Alfa and I am going to road test in June ( he doesn't know it yet).
If I fall off my motorcycle in Italy i will get treated for free. Thats a start. Health care is good and bad everywhere and Italy has huge problems in eveyr area of public living, but banktrrupting people and turning them away from hospitals is not one of them. It shouldn't be our policy either, speaking as aone who has excellent insurance provded free (to me) by the good citizens of Key West.
I'm working on something motorcycle for year's end as I have been forced to neglect the Bonneville, rather against my nature.
Mr Conchscooter:
I've had two Alfas back in the 70's made popular by that movie, "The Graduate". When they ran they were exquisite. I owned both of them at the same time; 2000 GTV Veloce and also a Guilia Spyder 1600 twin cam 5-speed. My friend had a Duetto (round tail).
I've always wanted to own a Topolino, I think they are cute looking but in a manly way. Fiats had a very bad reputation for un-reliability so pulled out of the north american market. I hope they are better now with the newer models.
We had photo radar up here but there was so much public outcry that it was recinded, as there was no way to prove who was driving your "vehicle"
I wished I was the "ripe old age of 52" again
Happy New year from Canada
bob
bobskoot: wet coast scootin
I notice the only woman to comment was cheerfully lustful about Italian cars. Bryce just set the pissy tone and the thread never recovered. The fact is I have never owned an Alfa (too...unreliable?!)- I used to drive a Citroen Diane until I got a Fiat X1/9 which I loved and drove all across Europe. I also owned a Lamborghini for a while but as it was a farm tractor I don't think that counts.
The Fiat 500 will go on sale in the U.S. toward the end of 2010. It will be built somewhere in North America, since importation brings things like currency fluctuation into the mix. That's why you have Hondas from Ohio and Toyotas from Kentucky and Texas.
Fiat has had to compete with the Japanese just like the Detroit 3 have, and they've raised their game considerably. I've had the opportunity to look closely at and even drive some current Fiats. They're a darn sight better than anything Chrysler has a the moment.
My only fear is Chrysler will figure the stupid prices charged and gotten for MINIs means they will be able to do likewise for the 500. In Europe, it's fairly inexpensive, starting at about $14K (a base Smart goes for about 18 grand there)...
__Orin
Scootin' Old Skool
Be still my beating heart. Diana gets an Alfa and my wife gets a 500. And I will have to pile on the overtime.
Mr Conchscooter:
See, there were benefits to smoking, cause if you smoked then you could stop and bleed the funds over to the Nuevo. But if you didn't then you will have to dig deeper into your pockets
bob
bobskoot: wet coast scootin
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