Saturday, January 2, 2010

A New Year

"Oh man!" the public works employee groaned as I leveled my camera at the man sleeping upright on the steps. "Don't take his picture!" I'm trying to, I replied emphatically, as my dog jerked the leash and the camera wobbled and refused to focus in the pre-dawn half light. His intoxication, his incapacity, is emblematic of the giant party that just closed out the old year in Key West.There is a school of thought that speaks loudly in favor of of a new kind of tourism in Key West. Supporters of tourism of the wealthy say the city would be much nicer if rich people came to visit, making this public display of incontinence another piece of Key West's quirky history. Me? I was working New Year's Eve with Officers Young and Betz playing Bounce the Dispatcher as they stopped traffic all over town constantly all night on their vigorous DUI patrol. The rest of the city was boozing it up under a full moon, the last blue moon for the next 30 months:I staggered out of the Police Station at ten minutes to six in the morning, handing over the controls to Rachel, abandoning the care of the city to day shift. I had a dog to walk. Cheyenne was a little bleary eyed, over walked I think these past few days. She had refused to come out of the car during the night when I went downstairs to visit her on my breaks and I figured she needed a pick-me-up to get her going. The smells of Duval on the morning after were just the ticket. For some reason this trash can was empty, an ironic sight on the city's main drag that was itself resembling nothing quite so much as a landfill:Cheyenne got to work sniffing the detritus and I got to work photographing what was left of the party. To my amazement I literally knocked into the City Manager, bright eyed, bushy tailed and perfectly groomed, marching down the street organizing the public works crews. Jim Scholl came to the city from the Navy and he has a very different style from his predecessor. Navy ship-shape came to mind as he grinned, telling me how Lower Duval was well on it's way back to human habitability. I had m y work cut out to record the part of the party no one else wants to look at. Cheyenne was volunteering to join the public works crews. I was surprised to see the new Matheessen's store just closing at 6am. This used to be the falafel shop on Duval that I rather liked. Now we have yet more Conch fritters on offer."We seceded where others failed" is the motto of the Conch Republic, whose flag can also apparently be used as a rather attractive, if misplaced, door curtain.(Legible image courtesy of Bruce).
A lonely bottle pointing the way: Ho ho ho , God Bless Us Everyone. Very Dickensian don't you think? Except for the palm tree some spoil sport will feel obliged to point out:Even at this hour the bicycle traffic continues unabated through the remains of the war zone:
One more gruesome sports bar didn't stay open for a month. This is apparently some sort of chain restaurant, but the space is open once again if you have an arm and a leg available to pay for the monthly rent.Lonely Street is the place you fend off with beer and vodka when all else fails. Or you can pass out at the Heartbreak Hotel just out of sight of the picture.
At first glance one could make the argument that upscale tourism would be nice, but frankly I wouldn't like it. When places get boring they lose their charm. If you don't believe me check out Royal Palm Beach or Naples (Florida, I mean). And besides the merchants down here don't really want this lot to change. Public Works, those amazing tireless people, will restore everything before the hang overs are done and commerce will continue and no one will remember to thank them. There was an article in the Citizen, a pean of praise for City Commissioner Mark Rossi who spent $450,000 years ago to buy Ricks Bar and now owns the block upon which a warren of bars exists, along with a strip club called, alluringly enough, The Red Garter, where you can pay very little to see a pair of Eastern European breasts if the mood takes you. The article mentioned that the commissioner is still steamed about a noise ordinance proposed by the developer of Truman Annex all those years ago that would have required a different style of entertainment at Ricks's Bar. The ordinance obviously never made it, and Key West's path to a noisy, beery, cheap trinket renaissance was cast. Plastic cups anyone? Who says it never snows in Key West? Looks like a proper snow drift to me:Everyone went home but they left the lights on. Expense is clearly no object and the concept of conservation hasn't yet penetrated a community where only seven percent of the waste stream is recycled:It is not enough for one location to imitate the Big Apple by dropping a ball at midnight of the Old Year. In Key West the owner of schooner wharf, a lissome blonde dresses as a pirate-ess and drops from a sailboat mast. At Sloppy Joe's a Conch ("konk") shell drops and here they put an Asiatic wo-man in the red slipper and drop her. Take your pick- a real woman, a fake gastropod, or a real cross dresser, Key West would never be so wondrous were it to follow in the path of the gruesome, dull rich of the upper class suburbs.
Trust an anal compulsive like me to notice some dork left the lights on the bike.
The Bahamian arch denotes Petronia Street, scene of the Goombay Street Fair in October.How undignified to leave a cup on the seat of a stranger's scooter. Certainly no cup of kindness here:And then a block away Key West's serenity reasserts itself. "Coexist!" the bumper sticker demands of it's readers. Not impossible to do even in so small a place as Key West. we are only talking here about the visitors and their money on Duval, and the residents, living their quiet lives elsewhere. Not a plastic cup to be seen.

9 comments:

blameitonbuffett said...

conch:

I couldn't agree more with the fact that "dignifying Duval" would be disastrous, if not intolerably boring!

We've all seen it happen before...I recall the old Sailfish Marina on Singer Island near my home town. The ship store never sold any spirits from the Russian River Valley, but you could get snacks, ice cold beer and bait all at a reasonable price. The fueling area was a bit run down and there was no attendant with "Chip" or "Chad" scripted over the pocket of his polo, but had ample berth and always competetively priced. The tiki bar was really loud and somewhat cramped.... you may sit next to a longliner one day , or an investement banker the next...everybody somehow nicely coexisted.

Now, after getting "dignified", it's a Disneyesque affair replete with valet parking and brass fixtures throughout...imported bamboo flooring, and $9 bud lights. And it's also utterly boring and devoid of any real character... Not unless you want to hear the guy talk abaout having to fire yet another first mate on his Hatteras, or how the 32' Everglades he bought as a dingy just isn't quite what he thought it would be...

I say leave her the way she is.. Duval Street's imperfections are exactly what make her perfect.

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Conch:

I've had more crap than this on the floor of my old apartment afrer a good New Year's Eve Party.

Riepe

Conchscooter said...

Cheynee agrees with blameitonbuffett. I was going to delete the comment but she stopped me.
riepe YOU are a bigger pile...oh never mind.

blameitonbuffett said...

Just hit me that "dignifying duval" is actually a good band name...feel free to use it. And thanks Cheyenne for stopping him from deleting my post...you'll find him to be bit of an ass at times... just breathe and bear with him, he's got a boat and summer's coming.

Chuck Pefley said...

Conch, you have provided a great overview of how we "civilized" citizens lack respect for our public space. Jack "R" 's claim notwithstanding, I'm stunned at how people do in public what they wouldn't think of doing to their own property.

Perhaps it is an organized effort to provide gainful employment to city workers?

Your request to see results from the wonderful free-gift tool has been taken under advisement. We'll see...

Anonymous said...

While eating peanuts at Yankee stadium this past summer, I was told by a woman sitting next to me that I shouldn,t throw the shells on the ground and make a mess of the new stadium. I looked down at the nearly spotless aisle and paused. After a moment of reflection I proceeded to dump my beer into the peanut shell pile. The sweet smell of baseball.

Duval needs its warts in the same way.

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Anonymous:

I would have done exactly the same thing — in Yankee stadium. But in other places, like the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park, or Main Street, USA, I defer to Chuck Pefley.

Fondest regards,
Jak • rrep • Toad
Twisted Roads

Conchscooter said...

Right. Jolly good. Keep calm and carry on. Is Duval Yankee Stadium or Yellowstone?

Anonymous said...

It's not often I can comment on Key West, but I was there the day before New Year's eve. It looked to me like a town invaded by an ocuppying army with unlimited credit cards. Just completely overrun beyond sanity. I wouldn't worry about lack of garbage, and from what I saw the days of inexpensive beer and food are long gone.

It was the second time I have visited there and I still don't feel I have seen the real KW. But I wandered down some beautiful streets just a few blocks from Duval. Beautiful architecture,( architecture with a small "a' ) the streets and old houses looked great and I peeked around and wondered what it would be like to live there on a quiet summer day.

I suspect reading this blog is as close as I will come to finding out.But who knows? In 10 years my house will be paid off and I will have a pretty decent government ATM card for life. Maybe then I can spend enough time ( and money) to find the real KW.

Until then, please don't change a thing.

Sal Paradise