Thursday, February 4, 2010

The Back Of Bahia Honda

It looked aground as I looked around, I could see the anchor line pointing to shore. Perhaps the low low tide had taken the skipper by surprise though we were coming up on a full moon about then so s/he should have been ready for that. In a north wind anchoring south of the islands is easy and comfortable though why the boat felt the need to be so close inshore I wouldn't know. It was another in a series of good looking days in the Keys, this time near Bahia Honda.
The seas were flat and the view south toward Cuba seemed endless.Tourists sometimes wonder if you can see Cuba's mountains from the Keys but you can't. If you stand at sea level you can see about half a dozen miles depending on your actual height. The calculation is known as height of eye. Multiply your height of eye's square root by 1.17. The easy example is standing with your eye 9 feet above sea level puts your square root at 3 times 1.17 equals three and a half miles. As Cuba is ninety miles away at it's nearest point that puts it out of reach. A 900 foot mountain would be visible from thirty five miles which added to your height of eye would amount to to less than 40 miles. Here endeth the lesson as I have exhausted my meager mathematical skills (and I am not completely certain I have it right but it's close enough). The long and the short is that Cuba is always out of sight.
Cheyenne has been fishing and chewing on the dead carcasses of the fish killed in the Great Cool Down of 2010. The beaches have been littered with corpses and her diet has, as a result become a little too rich in dried fish.The fish are everywhere, slowly returning to their elemental forms. We explored the waterfront at the south end of the old Bahia Honda Bridge. There is what appears to be an old pump station built out of limestone along side the original, decrepit water pipe that the Navy installed in World War Two to supply the Navy Base in Key West with a regular supply of water.
The pipeline is rather the worse for wear which is okay as the new pipe runs alongside the Highway. It was of course a larger diameter pipe that they installed when it was built alongside the new highway in 1982. Considering the shortage of water in the aquifer in South Florida and the burgeoning population I'd recommend using a rainwater recovery system like the one that came with my house. But drinking rain water scares a lot of people. Conchs used to do it all the time in the good old days when everyone had a cistern. I was so involved in taking the picture I only freaked out about Cheyenne on the precipice after she was well away from the edge. She is smarter than she looks, and I enjoy her sense of adventure. The "new" Bahia Honda bridge is on the left.I rode the old bridge on my Vespa in 1981 and have no photos nor any memory of the journey. I was young and I try not to blame my former self for my inability to record the journeys of my life.The new bridge is a very inviting four lane but the Highway Patrol is well aware of how tedious the drive on the approaches can be and because of their frequent fines in the area as people speed up on the wide bridge, this area is sometimes known as the "Lower Keys toll booth":Seven weeks ago Cheyenne was in a cage at the pound:
Now the Lower Keys are her backyard. We spent a happy 45 minutes exploring the sliver of West Summerland Key shown in the picture below.It is a never ending source of amazement to me that these islands are so under explored by residents and visitors. Which I concede is just as well or else we'd be standing shoulder to shoulder and I enjoy the solitude

10 comments:

Chuck Pefley said...

I didn't realize you and Cheyenne were such new friends. So happy you and she are enjoying your island solitude and freedom.

I'm curious ... no concern about fish bones as she forages along the beach amongst the rotting sea creatures?

Conchscooter said...

Trying to stop a dog being a dog is waste of time and ruins a good walk. I only stick my hand down their gullets when there's a problem and the last time that happened it was with a piece of manufactured rawhide. Shit happens.

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Sir:

As I plan to become the first homeless person living on Key West with a beautiful BMW K75 motorcycle, can you please find out what kind of fish were killed by the lower temperatures, if they are considered delicasies, and how often this bounty is repeated in the average winter season?

It seems to me that I could have walked along a stretch of beach on each of those cold days and had my choice of lunch and dinner. Also, is it possible for the average homeless person to net shrimp from any one of these bridges?

I'm thinking a diet of barbecued shrimp and grilled winterkill grouper, washed down by fresh lime ricky's (made from anonymously harvested Key West limes) wouldn't be hard to take. And I'd get to visit with you everytime the cops threw me in the tank.

It would be just like living in Canada.

Fondest regards,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

I met an old codger on No Name's Boogie Channel bridge once fishing there. He told me stories of visiting his sister in the 1970's on Big Pine Key and "making the truck run" - meaning they would get behind a fast moving truck and tailgate on the single lane bridges that used to exist on the highway.

greentortuga said...

Oh, one day when I live down there I may bump into you and Cheyenne exploring the islands with my two mongrels. There's nothing better than exploring new areas with your canine(s). Sadly there's not a whole lot to explore in my built-in-1990-suburbia neighborhood, so I venture outward for a daytrip in search of solitude everytime I'm able. Thanks for the window into your world.

Conchscooter said...

riepe: I saw lots of dead box fish (poisonous) and lots of snapper like fish (not) and one rather gelatinous moray eel on boca chica beach. The last such die off was I think in the 70s so you will go hungry.
jeffrey: lots of people remember geting stuck meeting trucks head on on the old bridges. I was ridinga Vespa and never had a problem (except when I rear ended a buick while distracted by splendid ocean views).
tortuga: don't trust my view of the Keys, most people find the back country dead boring so they sit on Duval and get shit faced.

Unknown said...

Mr Conchscooter:

I was thinking that If I found myself at the Pound in a cage, would you come to rescue me too. I think it would be a great life walking about with you and foraging for dead food. But you are going to have to spring for a Hack as riding in the Nissan would be boring

bob
bobskoot: wet coast scootin

Jack Riepe said...

Dear Sir:

You let your dog eat dead poisonous fish?

Fondest regards,
The Troublemaker

Karen said...

I really enjoy the photos and stories of your explorations with Cheyenne. My husband and I have a rescue dog too - Sierra - and she's a perfect example of natural selection - a great dog. I wish more people would realize what good dogs they can get from the local humane society and consider adopting instead paying a lot for a purebred. Cheyenne has a good life.

Singing to Jeffrey's Tune said...

I also remember guy once telling me that living in Key West was like being a college professor - an endless supply of young hippy chicks wanting to camp on the lawn.