Tuesday, March 31, 2026

Breaking Rules

 We decided it was time to leave Garibaldi and drive south. However Layne had a couple of painful infected spots on her legs, something like insect bites gone bad. Antiseptic wasn’t healing them so we decided to stop by a dermatology office on our way out of town. Clinica CuoreDerma looked right, rave reviews and modern facilities.

Trouble was the first appointment was at 3pm. We paid $75 for the consultation and went back to the campground to take a nap and wait. We paid the thirty dollars we owed for three nights at the drivers social club.
Lots of photos to celebrate their club activities. 


Then we went back to the dermatologist  Layne got a prescription for her wounds and a skin cancer inspection which she passed.
Great news.  The doctor spoke English, the office as you can see is impeccably appointed  and the process was easy and very reassuring. It must be obvious by now that medical care across Latin America is professional affordable and accessible. It’s not perfect of course but it’s not horribly 19th century either. Try dropping in to a doctors office at home and getting a same day appointment…it can happen but I wouldn’t count on it.
We came out of the office to see this Ram 1500 pickup parked on the street. It’s about as long as GANNET2 but I had been terribly gringo fussing about taking up one and a half spaces where he just sprawled. At least he didn’t stick out into the travel lane. I also with great struggle paid the dollar fee for two hours parking at the machine. My Portuguese is improving steadily as I pretty much understood the instructions. 
The drive down to sea level was pleasant and without incident but we left Garibaldi  yesterday around four on a lovely sunny afternoon.
Electronic toll ahead -$1. 
We have thirty days to pay it but I doubt the bill will reach our US tag. 
We stopped at a pharmacy along the way to fill Layne’s new prescriptions so Rusty and I parked in a taxi spot and stayed put waiting for an angry cab driver to come by and  claim his spot. We never saw a cab driver but this dude saw our front license plate and stopped and stared.
That happens a lot but he came up to my open window and started chatting. He apologized for only speaking German and Portuguese but we talked about retirement and travel and the beauty of southern Brazil and before I could ask about his family (a good ice breaking subject) he smiled a broad smile and wished me a “ good afternoon and a good journey.” Brazilians will smother you with kindness long before they will ever rob you. Do not be afraid to visit. 
Then things went bad. In Porto Alegre traffic was jammed in every direction. Google Maps took three tries to find  routes around the chaos. I think it was a bad accident at a critical intersection because an ambulance muscled past us and police had several streets closed off. We drove in every direction in ever larger circles through some really rough neighborhoods as darkness started to fall. I kept muttering we should have never left so late in the day and if only we had stayed in Garibaldi…etc…however we had no choice but to press on.
It was well past dark by the time we reached our planned stop forty miles south of Porto Alegre, a Brazilian version of Cracker Barrel, a restaurant selling souvenirs next to a butcher counter, a bakery, a pastry shop, and tons of processed packaged stuff and of course an overloaded buffet. 
I do not like driving at night and we should have spent the night in Garibaldi but we stupidly pressed on for now reason other than stubbornness. The divided highway was rough with lots of patches and dips and uneven surfacing, it rained, cyclists were wobbling on the shoulder without lights, so it was everything an experienced overlander should avoid. But we made it and the most important task was done before the rain returned. 
Then we fed ourselves and the desserts were excellent, strawberry mousse, lemon cream, trifle and crème caramel - as much as we wanted. Be jealous.
As well as all the other choices for $12 for each of us.  Plus draught beers, ice cold.


It was easy to restrain ourselves from buying pastries as we left the restaurant after we had eaten that food. And don’t forget the grill master with some excellent meats and sausages. (Rusty got a share later of course). 
I fear I may miss Brazil. 
Eccentric country. 
Good night.

No comments: