Monday, July 28, 2008

Moonlit Bayview Park

San Francisco has Golden Gate Park and New York has Central Park, thus Key West has Bayview Park. That would be a city block devoted to open space, greenery and sporting activities. Compared to the larger cities a block may not seem like much but in Key West it's plenty to be going on with. Bayview Park aspires to the classical roots of public spaces designed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, formality, high minded statuary and nobility of purpose are the watchwords like this formal entryway across from the Police Station: In Bayview Park we find a massive stone monument, a block of immutable rock, commemorating the sacrifice made by New Yorkers preserving the Southernmost City for the Union in 1862, and at the opposite corner Jose Marti, Cuba's revolutionary hero is celebrated in marble in a style typical of 19th century statuary. And at the opposite corner of the park a Czech artist Emil Adamec has erected two statues, a male and female torso expressing he says a gateway between Havana and Key West two cities divided by political barriers.
Bayview Park is a magnet for the dispossessed in Key West, so much so the city administration has removed the park benches, (a couple firmly planted in cement are beyond the Public Work's Department grasp) making it unnecessarily complex for anyone not equipped with their own chairs to enjoy the park. From time to time the city holds public gatherings here but the bandstand is mute most of the time, the lawns, especially this time of year are not enjoyed by anyone much. Dogs are prohibited which doesn't mean they don't get to visit the park if they have daring owners, but mostly I see people playing tennis here standing on the courts in the sun knocking that fuzzy little ball back and forth. There is even a pro instructor even to help the amateurs on their way, so there is no excuse for an attitude like mine except sheer bloody-mindedness.I think they forced me to chase too many balls during my youthful imprisonment in boarding schools. There is basketball, softball and a set of slides for the toddlers. The softball field looked particularly ghostly in the moonlight Saturday night on my lunch break. In the distance, rising up like a fortress one sees the Harvey Government Center illuminated against possible softball ambushes from the darkened park lands where I lurked:For everyone there is something in Bayview Park including public restrooms, facilities not to be under valued in a city where the complaint is frequently;y heard that there aren't enough. Even if in this instance Key West seems to favor the institutional-correctional look for its loos:The restrooms are another reason Bayview tends to get a disproportionate number of residentially challenged hanging around. A few years ago the Salvation Army got permission to install a shower trailer in the Police Station parking lot but even since those facilities were dismantled the park provides determined homeless people a place to lay down:And you thought bleachers are meant to seat people watching softball? Key West, home to multi-purpose facilities. Even in the muggy night air the aluminum benches looked less than homey to me. Homes alongside the park tend to have the characteristic Key West look to them, old, handsome and frequently just a little run down. At four in he morning they can look vaguely sinister:
Or warm and welcoming:
Or massive and well used:
Bayview Park lacks waterfront views, it has no distinguishing features and aside from its monumental monuments it has no structures of historical value. Its just a park and one that tends to get overlooked. I'm as bad as anyone on this, I ride down Truman occasionally into or out of town and fail to really appreciate the simplicity of trees and grass:

And yet my hour long ramble ended all too soon, a couple of dozen photos in the bag, the moon still sinking slowly towards the west and the pool between the Park and the Police Station still as a mirror, in the peace and quiet of the city, slumbering at last:I like working nights for a lot of reasons but having middle of the night lunch breaks is my secret perk.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

TGIF

I had a totally crap Friday, actually, and most of it was my fault which didn't make it any better. My wife had made an appointment to see her rheumatologist in Miami the same day I finally got an appointment to get the Bonneville it's 12,000 mile warranty service. I tried to get it into the shop in June and couldn't get an appointment so now it has 14,000 miles on the clock. I also tried to persuade my wife I should ride to Fort Lauderdale, but I couldn't come up with a reason why it would somehow be better if I were to ride the Bonneville and have her go alone in the car. I really enjoy the ride and going for a service is a great excuse to get on the road. We did the sensible thing and I loaded the motorcycle into our trailer and off we went, together. We left the house at 5 am, I dropped my wife off at the doctor's in south Miami at 8:30 and i arrived at Pure Triumph an hour later. I waited for the shop to open and was first at the service desk to sign the paperwork and get back on the road to south Miami to pick up my wife. Things went a bit wrong and I was told the motorcycle might not be ready by closing time even though I had booked ahead with that stipulation. 170 miles each way adds up to a lot of mileage for a return trip. I got a bit snotty I'm afraid and the owner ended up promising the bike would be done before closing. I left angry that I'd had to make a scene. I hate drama and being the cause of it makes me hate myself.

I picked up my wife at the doctors' without a hitch which was good, because she told me she had left her cell phone at home so I had no way to get in touch with her when we separated. That's a sign of the times. When we're without a cellphone we feel crippled. I hate technology.

Then we did the mainland shopping routine. Target, Macy's, Linens and Things,The Container Store, Costco and some other places I can't remember and at every single one, our credit card transaction needed voice confirmation. Man I was mad. We interrupted an attempted fraud last month and this was our new card and apparently they were keeping a close eye on us. Grrrr. I spent a lot too much time fiddling at the check-out in all these places, waiting for approval, suffering the glowering of other customers wondering who were the dorks holding them up.

Then, with the car groaning under the weight of all the packages we rumbled north back to Pure Triumph in Fort Lauderdale, a place that was giving me a knot in my stomach. That pissed me off too, because I like the shop, I like hanging around the Triumphs and Ducatis on the rare occasions I'm in Fort Lauderdale, and now I was so grumpy at them I didn't want to see them ever again. Grrr.

Instead they were very polite and explained the misunderstanding to me and presented me with a gleaming, purring Bonneville. I felt like a total worm because my determination to get the bike back the same day had put the mechanics back on their backed up schedule and on and on. They agreed not to promise a same day turn around on major services in the future, and I agreed not to expect that on the next one at 26,000 miles... Then came time to pay and the credit card fiasco intervened again and we were on the phone and couldn't get approval for the bill. This one was better for me because I got to wander around as we waited, and apologized profusely to everyone while admiring the bikes on display.

It turned out the credit company called my wife's cell phone early in the day to make sure the transactions were legitimate but as she had forgotten the damned thing at home... they had to hand process each cursed transaction. Bad for them, crazy making for us. They take fraud seriously, so should we all.
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Then I got to drive home, I was the frustrated motorcyclist behind the wheel, who in truth was so completely knackered at this point he was secretly glad to be hunkered down, all air conditioned, with satellite radio to lull the wife to sleep while he drove. However the Maxima was getting crap mileage towing the 500 pound Bonneville and I watched in astonishment as the gauge plummeted all day. As we were cruising south, homeward, on the Turnpike looking forward to Mexican food in Homestead my wife announced brightly: " What's happened to the gas gauge?" We were so far out of fuel it was off the scale. We slowed down and tottered down the turnpike looking for a gas station and of course there were none. "I feel like a teenager again" my wife said brightly. "Our credit card doesn't work and we're running on fumes." I felt like an idiot as I haven't run out of gas ever, in the past thirty years. Will this nightmare never end? I asked myself as we pulled into a gas station that finally appeared next to the highway. That was when I had the bright idea of refilling the Triumph while it was still on the trailer and the nozzle was at an angle such that the gasoline blew back. A lot of mid grade 89 octane blew all over me at $4.28 a gallon. My wife ran and bought a jug of water as my whole face was burning and I was blinded and spitting gasoline in agony. Thank God It's Friday indeed!
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Its the blessing and the curse of living in the Keys- the ability to drive north and have the whole world of big city shopping at your fingertips. Some days the adventure is just too much.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Flat Waters

It's that time of year: flat water time in the Keys, also known simply as "summer." This picture I took from my street over the mangrove flats west of Ramrod Key, completely protected waters:
Thursday afternoon I needed to get out of the house, so in addition to going to the Post Office and the bank on Big Pine Key I took a ride north towards Bahia Honda. Even though I know this road quite well enough I just wanted to see what might appear in the lense of the camera. Flat water it turned out; the waters between the mangrove islands was looking as they should in summer, all flat and mirror-like. The effect wasn't even spoiled by the hazy skies covered by indeterminate cirrus clouds. I rode and I photographed.

That last picture I took of the Bonneville in a parking area on the south end of the Bahia Honda bridge. I went just to poke around and lo and behold I found yet another little piece of Keys back country previously unknown to me. I've been by here a million times too...

It was just another of those little parking areas off the highway, one of the nice features of riding through Monroe county, come as you are and park where you feel like, trash cans provided:Apparently other people have already discovered this small corner of wilderness:I'm sure i don't know what he found to dive on, and swimming with a regulation dive flag indicates he knows the rules, I just wondered if he was doing some reconnaissance for next week's mini lobster season, the annual summer massacre of lobster by amateur hunters, that precedes the official commercial lobster season. The area in back of the parking lot was easily accessible to divers or walkers:

And then home to a quick swim in Newfound Harbor followed by grilled chicken from the barbecue, braised spinach and the satisfaction of a small summer ride on my Bonneville:

Ten miles there, ten miles back.

Friday, July 25, 2008

The Art Of Genocide

I met a mass murderer once, and I came face to face with evil and it unnerved me. This is not a post about the Florida Keys by the way, but a reflection on the arrest of Radovan Karadic in Serbia. He is to be tried for war crimes in the 1990s and inciting genocide in Bosnia and Herzegovina at the International Court in the Hague and not a minute too soon. He has lived out the past decade hiding behind a beard on the streets of Belgrade, but Serbia is desperate to join the EU and they can't get in until the Bosnian war criminals are brought to book, so they turned him in finally.
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My mass murderer died of illness unrepentant, never tried in court, never brought to account for his crimes. His name was Roberto D'Aubisson, and I dare that doesn't mean much in the 21st century. I was a reporter in El Salvador for a few miserable weeks in 1986 and I had the misfortune of attending a press conference where Roberto D'Aubisson took center stage and berated pretty much everyone involved in the Civil War, including the US, for screwing things up, and giving the guerillas a platform to sue for peace.
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We all knew D'Aubisson was the eminence grise behind the death squads that roamed the country putting bullets into people pretty much at random, but we all had to pretend, in the interests of that damnable "objectivity" that this might not be the case. Perhaps D'Aubisson really didn't know who was responsible for the two dead bodies lying outside my hotel that very morning, lying in the gutter with bloody bullet holes in their backs and cardboard signs wired round their necks proclaiming them traitors or collaborators or communists or some other thing.
I was pretty sure he had ordered their murder and i wanted to ask him why.
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I had a deadline and as I was reporting for the radio I needed a soundbite, a quotation, from D'Aubisson, preferably in English to make it easy to incorporate his comments into my story. I asked my final question from the back of the room and asked for a reply in English which got me the most filthy look I have ever suffered under. He walked past my microphone and started screaming insults at the Communist loving US administration etc etc.. in Spanish, and his bodyguard followed up by poking me in the chest with a finger the size and consistency of a nightstick while advising me, in English, that his boss-poke- never-poke- gave-poke- interviews-poke- in English, but if I wanted he would be happy to talk to to me at length somewhere private. Gulp. I had brought attention to myself throughout the press conference by making clear the possibility that I didn't really believe D'Aubisson's claims of innocence in the Death Squad activities, activities that might possibly piss off the US government at some indeterminate point in the not too distant future. "You got out of that one alive," some English speaking cameraman muttered dryly under his breath as we shuffled out of the room. "Not everyone is that lucky." Not everyone was as stupid as I was, or as young, or as sure of his own immortality- up to that moment.
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Unlike Karadic, D'Aubisson wasn't trained as a doctor, he had no bedside manner, he didn't know how to be affable or charming, he was driven by his desire to wipe out the enemy. Subtlety was not his thing. His eyes really did burn with hatred, a thing I had never seen before, nor since, and I was young at the time, idealistic and in my own way a seeker of truth. That encounter put the brakes on my idealism, I felt marked by my impertinent questions at the press conference and I never really did recover my outsider's equanimity for as long as I stayed in El Salvador. I spent a great deal too much time looking over my shoulder and worrying about myself. It's a terrible thing when people feel they can act with impunity, and they are angry to start with and have a cruel and vicious agenda to carry out. They do nasty things to people that piss them off, and I did not feel protected by my status as a US reporter. I took to drink, and decided I needed to go home.
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Tony Plana played D'Aubisson to perfection in Oliver Stone's movie Salvador, a film that captured all the weirdness and fear of the Salvadoran Civil War. Anytime I want to remind myself what visceral fear feels like I watch the movie.
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I have heard the phrase "banality of evil" used to describe cataclysms like the Holocaust and the Pol Pot regime in Cambodia or the machete genocide in Ruanda, but there was nothing banal about Roberto D'Aubisson; he creeped me out completely and curiously enough I was totally convinced after I met him that he was entirely responsible for the terrifying death squads roaming the country slaughtering people at will. His dedication to the total misuse of power was also responsible for getting me wondering how it is that a benign God could allow such things to happen. To that conundrum there is but one unpalatable answer in my mind. D'Aubisson has a lot to answer for in my life and he barely grazed me in passing, and I'm still pissed off about him. I dare say there will be a few Bosnians feeling the same way, more profoundly, when Karadic goers on trial and I will be silently cheering them on, from the safety and comfort of my home in the serene Florida Keys.

Bahama Street Ramble

My chiropractor has an office near Bahama Street and every couple of weeks I like to arrive early, park the Bonneville somewhere else and take a walk. I find its a challenge to see new things in the midst of the familiar so I look to see what I can notice. Last week I left the Bonneville on Simonton close to the entrance to Free School Lane: And I cut across a block of Bahama Street towards Eaton. That put me fair and square in front of Fausto's Food Palace, the downtown grocery store that claims to be a social center as well. It is a good place to pick up a twelve pack too, and if you are so thirsty after a week's labor you can empty one bottle into a plastic cup right there in front of the store to fortify yourself for the trek home:If you are a pigeon refreshment is more easily accessible and cheaper in a gutter if you are so inclined. This guy bathed in his drinking water which I though was a bit much:Amidst the complaints about the disappearance of old Key West, the signs of past glories are still visible, like these louvered shutters.

Slightly opened they throw a pleasant shady light across the room, fully closed they act as hurricane shutters. Modern homes supplement them with the blast of air conditioning, but to walk past a home with louvered shutters and louvered window panes wide open is to know the occupants are tough or poor or both. A home radiates heat internally is it isn't cooled artificially which is why people historically enjoy their porches. Wooden homes aren't self-insulated like thick stone walls or adobe. However wooden homes show off their own glory especially when twinned with the shady and light of a towering poinciana tree:This house is pretty obvious but across the street I saw a sight I've never noticed before which is the actual name of La Concha hotel on the Duval Street side of the building. I've never stayed at La Concha but to me it's the coolest hotel. The rooms are small, which matters to some people, but it just has the attributes I love in hotels when I travel. Its the antithesis of modern convenient motels, with its long carpeted corridors, heavy dark furniture and spacious tiled lobby, and its right on Duval so it can be noisy.

After I trained my camera on La Concha I found myself staring up a tiny alley which was closed at both ends, filled with dead leaves and smelled rank. Weird. Who would climb a tall fence to use this tiny space as a bathroom. Another Key West mystery.And alongside the alley I found a truly peculiar tree, with this sign nailed to it. Who would take up residence in a tree I wouldn't know, but there it is:Taking a stroll along Bahama close to Eaton Street you come across the back of St Paul's and their parish hall. I like the notion of a "parish hall" it has the sound of an old fashioned community center, which is a bit unlikely in Key West:At the corner of Bahama on Eaton there is an old theater still standing long since unused, unloved and uncared for. It has more than its share of ghost stories attached to it and the Ghost Tour stops by and spreads the gossip with glee. One thing they tell you, and I've never seen contradicted, is that local residentially challenged citizens never spend the night in the doorway:All of which may or may not be true, and I'm forced to wonder how this building survived the recent housing boom. But it does have a cool tower which someone other than me appreciates, because they've been doing some work to that part of the building:And it just so happened I got see a genuine rat bike parked on the street an MZ, formerly an East German brand that gained a world wide market with the fall of the Berlin Wall. This one still runs apparently despite the disappearance of the Miami importer of these obscure bikes:I sort of doubt the owner would have bought a new seat had one been available. I like a motorcycle that gets well used up. I'm still working on the Bonneville, but I bought a machine with a solid, I hope, dealer base.