Monday, November 16, 2009

End Of Duval

Let me say it straight up: this is not my environment. I wanted to check out the end of Duval Street nearest the harbor but try as I might I didn't enjoy this block of the street.There is nothing residential down here, there isn't much greenery and of beauty, the eye of this beholder sees not much at all. There is a pharmacy though, if you need pharmaceutical thing while busy getting drunk.This is dust catcher heaven and I watched these visitors poring over various knick knacks, doubtless imported from the Mysterious Orient for their pleasure.Every fifth male of my generation is called Michael, so I am ready to bet good money there is one with my name on it......so if I ever feel the need to have a sea shell with my name on it catching motes of dust in my small home, this is where I will be sure to come to pump up the Key West economy:Duval Street is labelled in a potentially confusing way. This is the North end of the street, called Lower Duval because the numbers are lower here than they are at the south end of the street which is called Upper Duval.On the left there we see the imposing bulk of Zero Duval, Ocean Key House:This isn't actually a recreation of Check Point Charlie in the Berlin Wall. This is the entrance to the parking lot at the Pier House, Number One Duval Street:
You might come here to park a car on your way to the spa, or the beach bar and that's what you'd tell the attendant. You would also pass these old cement structures, left over from the days when the Key West Harbor waterfront was devoted to sailing ships and the movement of goods as well as people.Nowadays it's all about moving people which is probably a much easier way to make a living than sailing cargo around the coast. It's a lot less romantic to someone who earns his living in the air conditioned comfort of the police station. I don't actually miss my former job as boat captain.I was hoping for enlightenment and a point of view, about how the city makes it's money, but I could stand here and snap pictures till the cows come home and I would be no closer to a conclusion. A few years ago everyone was up in arms about Key West selling it's heritage to cruise ships and tour buses and developers and I wondered how it would be if the money spigot dried up. Now it has, for a lot of people, and the chance for the rest to make small fortune is evaporating fast. Yet the city still depends totally on tourism to supplement the steady income from the military, which fortunately shows no signs of disappearing. The last time the military pulled back left the city in ruins.I don't really understand mass tourism. I love to travel but my idea of making a journey is to see things, learn things and expand my comfort zone. I find it astonishing people keep coming back to Key West, and I am grateful for their constancy. Working for the city isn't as close to the tourist cash as working as a boat captain but the net result is the same. Without the visitor there is no salary. Beyond that rather base motive there is also the curiosity of trying to understand the phenomenon of repeat tourism, and the pleasure of living in a place that is a mirage of a pleasure palace that can be experienced only for a few short days each year.Of course Key West as pleasure palace wears a bit thin for people paying through the nose to live in the city, and that "island time" fantasy makes no sense to people rushing between multiple jobs and family obligations. Key West has always been trapped between fantasy and reality, ever since the Works Progress Administration decided to try tourism to revive the bankrupt city. The plan worked fabulously but Key West has had to reconcile being a romantic island with being in the business of being in business. Tourism always seems to provoke this dichotomy, but Key West's geographic isolation makes the situation that much more complex. When I lived in a mainland tourist town I had almost no contact with visitors. They had their routes to the beach and I had my tourist-free destinations in and around town. In Key West not only is that difficult to accomplish in such a small space, it is made more complex because being a local is a desired status. Most visitors desire contact with locals to go where locals go and eat where they eat.I asked once on a forum why people fascinated with key West don't just move here and the responses were the predictable mixture of family and job obligations, low pay, high cost of living and so forth. I was forced to the conclusion that Key west is better as a dream and a fantasy escape from real life than as real life itself. For some people this is the end of the road, and if they land up here with no money and no prospects, that's okay too. They take a seat, cadge spare change and watch the world go by. My mid-year resolution was to help struggling tourists trying to find their way on the streets, and to keep my impatience in check with the erratic winter driving and keep reminding myself that living here is a choice, not a dream killer. I would probably never visit Key West if I stopped living here. The tourist destinations bore me, and the fault lies, I believe, in me not in them. Lower Duval is for visitors and they certainly seem to enjoy it.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

BPK Flea Market

There is a large open space on Big Pine Key, and it's not really all that open. That's because every Saturday during the winter people operate stalls here selling dust catchers, foods, plants, clothes, sunglasses and all sorts of stuff. It's quite the place to be of a Saturday morning in the Lower Keys:This is the place to be find all that stuff you think you need and lug it back to the car in one of the many packed parking lots that surround the selling ground in the middle. My wife loves this dude who sells vegetable plants that seem to be properly adapted to Florida's climate.
His flourished last year where Home Depot's plants were rather hit or miss. He comes down Friday night, sets up, sleeps under the stars as he puts it, and has all his stock sold well before noon on Staurday. But there is a ton of stuff to be found at the flea market. I took these pictures as we wandered yesterday:
I wanted to tell this woman to keep her hands off the pink ones, but then I remembered my own rubber shoes are at home doing fine for the time being. Perhaps her husband needed a pair. My wife took me home to a nourishing curried chicken salad. I'm sure these were quite horrid:
More plants. We got Cuban oregano here and normal basil.
Cars were jammed in on all sides around the selling area.
In between the selling frenzy on weekends it looks somewhat desolate:And, in some respects rather forbidding. The place is owned by a rather repulsive reverend I had the misfortune to meet once. He claims the rights to the roadway around here and has put up signs to that effect.Before jack riepe gets on my case about being a low life socialist, let me just say private property is a fine and noble thing, and one has the right to barricade one's private roads. My questions about this place come in two parts. One: Is this really a private road?And if it is, in the second place, is this sufficient to close it?
I don't want to get tragic here but if some dude (like me) comes by here on a bicycle or a scooter or even on a Triumph Bonneville could he (or she) not run the risk of decapitation? And think about what it looks like at night: The flea market is not well lit at night and these so called "private roads" connect public roads, places where people have every right to travel, and if I were to tell you intoxicated people sometimes ride bicycles on Big Pine Key would you be surprised? Someone not aware of the "reverend's" penchant for closing roads with pieces of string might easily run into these dangers.
There had been talk that the Flea Market might get sold to a retail developer, my wife hoped Target might move in (she's only half joking!) and I wouldn't mind a Whole Foods just because I'm a yuppie. But back in the real world (where I don't much like flea markets anyway, though people sell excellent plants here) I wonder about this ability to just say "This road is mine!" and get away with it.
If this really is private a proper gate needs to be installed if the owner wants to close it off. Guillotining trespassers just seems a little much, even for a reverend.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Pinder Lane

J Wills Burke in his book Streets of Key West says the Pinder family was active in the Methodist Church in Key West which may, or may not account for the lane named after one of their number......finding itself so close to this lot:Which is not only an attractive brick pile, it is also a landmark on William Street:Pinder Lane is close by the church just off Fleming Street which is marked by the Island House for Men on the corner of William and Fleming:And there, between these two landmarks, is a modest gap in the picket fences and greenery:It's a pretty little alley as we shall see, but a realtor's sign brings a harsh note of reality to the alley. A complex of homes down this lane is being offered for $3.3 million. Even now.It's still free to park the Bonneville a moment and take a stroll:Old fashioned louvered windows, always my favorites:
An ultra-modern hurricane shutter made of translucent plastic. You can leave this new-fangled shutter up all summer and it won't turn your home into a rattly dark cave as the aluminum ones do.
These are the old- fangled wooden shutters, by way of contrast:Pinder Lane is the home of tropical greenery as one would expect in such a wealth- generating place:It had just finished showering when I arrived:J Burke Wills suggests this lane perhaps was named for William Pinder a member of the city council in 1911 and descendant of a hail-fellow-well-met Pinder who rejoiced in the name of Sylvanus and was nicknamed "King of Wreckers" for his abilities in that field.
All shuttered up with shutters and plywood and of course the obligatory "No Trespassing" sign just to make it clear.
A tin roof, not yet painted white even if the owners wanted to:
More No Trespassing. Don't they suppose the gate carries the message by clear implication?
A TV dish antenna to remind us Key West is Very Modern:And a final look back at William Street...
...where the Bonneville awaits out of sight where I parked it, more or less legally, not blocking delightful Pinder Lane.