Monday, April 19, 2010

Barber Motorsports Three

This is my third and final essay in this series of pictures taken at the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum outside Birmingham, Alabama. I am going to wax personal and nostalgic as I say good bye to the bikes so lovingly displayed. I blitzed through in two and a half hours checking out the bikes of my youth mostly and trying to see as much as I could of the 800 bikes on display. My long suffering wife and dog napped and talked on the iPhone in the Nissan while they waited for me to be pushed out by closing time. My wife is such a good sport that when I came out at ten to five she said "You've got another ten minutes...?"
My mother bought me my first two wheeler when I was twelve years old, a Vespa 50R in bright orange in the summer of 1970, the dawn of the best decade in motorcycling in my opinion. Motorcycles could go three thousand miles between oil changes and up to 7,000 miles between final drive chain replacements which meant a summer vacation could be completed without stopping to do what our ancestors a decade earlier had to do all too much roadside. Nevertheless for many people it was the 60's that was the decade of motorcycling romance:
I rode my little Vespa all over the hills of central Umbria learning to explore and travel at a young age, in an era when police patrols were non existent in rural Italy. I had to be 14 to be legally riding a 50cc motorcycle, but my mother wanted me to grow up to become a rider so she decided to instill the bug in me from a young age. I had an exceptional mother, too bad she was dead from a brain tumor three years later. She was 49 which seems rather young to me nowadays as I approach my 53rd birthday.I guess the bug bit because I traded the Vespa for an off road Beta 50 scrambler moped which I abused horribly on the goat tracks in the mountains but I did discover that I liked road riding and traveling. A used MV Agusta Sport, twin cylinder pushrod powered café racer came up for sale and I bought it for half a million lire as I recall in 1974. The next year I quit my English boarding school and rode that 100mph twin all over Europe every moment I had.
American riders grew up with the myth of the big V twin and Germans had their BMWs while everyone else wanted a Triumph. In Italy where import quotas were in effect to protect the local industry my contemporaries wanted Hondas and Yamahas, Kawasakis and Suzukis. I wanted light, fast good handling Italian iron. I traded the MV for the next sensation, a Moto Morini Three and a Half Sport, also in fire engine red with a disc brake and a top speed of 110 miles per hour. I had to kick start it but that lightweight 72 degree v-twin rode circles round Honda CB 400 Fours with all their chrome and it took me to North Africa, Spain and England in 1977/8 before a friend borrowed it and totaled it. I have never lent anyone my motorcycle since.
Then I bought a well used Benelli 650 Tornado, designed to beat the unreliable Triumph Bonneville of the day and it was way too fast and powerful for a boy used to 350cc twins. It was a real super bike and vibrated like one constantly breaking the wiring looms and the spark plug coils. I couldn't travel on it as it was totally unreliable. Like these Indian 500s designed to earn the failing company a new niche but so badly built were they, they just hastened Indian to the grave. When a motorcycle company abandons what it knows best it inevitably fucks everything up. Before I was born Gilera produced race winning singles, like the tank badge says "Absolute World Champion." By the time I was wondering how to replace my unreliable, snot-off-a-stick Tornado, Gilera was an arm of Piaggio (the Vespa builder) and producing pokey but cute 150cc daily riders.
BMW was the touring man's motorcycle, clean quiet and efficient but horribly expensive.
It may seem like there are lots of bikes to choose from today but back then we had all sorts of machines we could ride, two strokes, three cylinders, singles, twins, and even a few water cooled motorbikes.
On the subject of fucking things up Norton tolled their own death knell wasting what little money they had building a twin cylinder rotary Wankel engine which burned fuel like it was water and looked totally weird. Am oil tight electric start Commando with nice electrics and solid paint would have given Honda a run instead of this mess.
BMW produced the R100RS with a wind tunnel tested fairing and blew everyone away. A friend owned one and I rode it to my girlfriend's house 40 miles from home. I was more in love with it than with her by the time I got there. But it cost too much. Investment Biker Jim Rogers could afford a touring version for himself and a lighter BMW with bikini fairing for his girlfriend to ride around the world bringing capitalism to the unenlightened masses. He lives in Singapore now and looks down on the US where he expects revolution to break out any minute, but his bike is in Birmingham, safe for the time being. In those days we tourers wanted hard waterproof bags and weather protection and BMW was offering that sort of stuff long before anyone else. This was my ideal set up, no radio, no GPS, no auxiliary lights (the electrics would have fused) and newspaper under my leather jacket for warmth. It is weird to be old and to find oneself chuntering like an old fart.
Once again we have a motorcycle company bollocking it up and no surprise- it's English! This ugly duckling came from Vincent known for its speedy roadsters. No one much liked it.
This was the machine of the 1950s if you wanted to go fast. I think Vincent, a fine machine mechanically, takes top prize for building the ugliest motorcycle seat ever. It's a lifetime award. Some wags knew Vincents as "the plumber's nightmare" owing to the multiplicity of hoses and tubes sprouting among the mechanicals.
Thomas Edward Lawrence, famed as Lawrence of Arabia even in his own lifetime lent his fame to the advertising brochures of the Brough Superior Motorcycle Company. It is well known he rode fast and died of head injuries after falling off his last of seven Broughs in 1935. Please note this magnificent specimen has no tachometer, just like my basic Bonneville.
Lawrence lay in a coma for six days with severe head injuries and the surgeon who attended the last days of this famous soldier became convinced motorcyclists should wear helmets to protect themselves from catastrophe and campaigned for a helmet law. So now you know. This is the second most desirable motorcycle I never owned (a Moto Guzzi LeMans is the first). Check out the detail and the attractive seats...
One quick detour to acknowledge the Lotus collection at Barber (I was thinking of Old School Orin celebrating the purchase of his own car).
I know nothing of these machines so...
Looks rather...um...cramped?
This next one is for the Toad who rode a 750cc version as his first bike and chased women with it, as only he would. I was sorry none of "my" motorcycles were on display and even though this is a 350cc version of the famous awful 750cc Kawasaki two stroke triple with the rubber frame, it represents the derring do of the 1970s when Japanese bikes went fast, looked great but didn't corner worth a shit. Speaking as the rider of Italian bikes with peeling paint, duff headlights, uncomfortable seats but that could catch up on the twisty bits. It is all about speed and statistics when we are young.
Here is the fiftieth anniversary modern Bonneville based on...
...this:
Quite amazing to see the first 1959 Bonneville next to the 2009 Replica. And all illuminated by these huge windows looking out on the private race track in the pine hills of Alabama.
They had a well supplied war section as well with the original Ural sidecar combo (built by BMW of course!).
If you are hopeless at remembering your proper tire pressure the Wehrmacht had the optimal, though ugly, solution for you.
I'm very glad they lost in the end, because people who paint umlauts on their mudguards (the dots over the U) are not going to be very easygoing in other matters methinks. Time for more Italian stallions.The modern Ducati classic replica next to...the original! Complete with see through fuel gauge in the tank.I never did own a Ducati either and nowadays they are sport machines not daily riders unless you are 6 feet tall and can ride a Multistrada that needs an expensive valve check every 7500 miles.
I toyed with the idea of a 450cc Ducati single after I decided to ditch the unreliable Tornado but I went Japanese instead for the first time. I bought a Yamaha SR500 single said to be built in the style of the famous British singles with a dry sump, kick start only (I learned how to start a big single here!) and utter Japanese reliability. I added luggage and a windshield and took off across Africa on it. I got to Cameroon where hepatitis laid me low and the bike and I flew home to recuperate. I loved that bike and wanted to see one here but no luck. They can be found on Cycle Trader for a couple of grand so I hold out hope I might ride one again. It would be ideal for the Keys, light, comfortable and impossibly difficult to start if you don't know how which would make it thief proof in this electronic era. It never leaked a drop of oil either. Another weird corporate affectation, a Harley Café Racer, designed as a single seater that had nothing to do with the Motor Company's image. They didn't sell, imagine that.Even at the time, when I rode solo almost all the time, I couldn't imagine owning one. But it is as lovely now as it was then. While the 1980s brought in greater reliability and more safety features (turn signals as standard was shocking and odd on Italian bikes), I loathed the horrid plastic fairings and coverings that became all the rage. This is a 1982 version of my 1977 Morini 350 and underneath all that crap is the heart of a road racing bike of epic pedigree. The struggle to look Japanese killed off Morini when they were bought from the Morini family by corporate Cagiva and killed off because they were unbeatable competition for the Cagiva line of ugly bikes.
Moto Morini has been revived building huge water cooled V Twins not for sale in the US and probably about to go bankrupt. One of their bikes is known as the Nine And A Half to honor the memory of the exceptional 350 that made the company's fortune in 1976. Here is a bike you don't see in the US, a Benelli 250cc two stroke twin, spare essential and sober with the ability to go faster than should be allowed. My kind of ride.
Then in an effort to compete with Honda Benelli tried to go all multi-cylinder. This was their smallest offering, a four stroke 250cc four cylinder. I never saw one on the road but they sold a few in Italy.
Again with all the horrible 1980s plastic bits. I wanted simplicity reliability and economy as I was a daily rider back then and complex motorcycles were not easy to look after at home. You had to check the valves every three thousand miles and doing that on a double overhead cam was not easy. These exotica looked silly to me as a single or twin was simple to look after and even though fuel looks cheap now it seemed pricey back then. A friend of mine had a Suzuki 500cc two stroke twin in England and it was thrifty, easy to ride and reliable. I liked this machine.And here is Kawasaki's effort to trump the Bonneville, the original 650cc twin whose existence was trumpeted as the reason for Kawasaki's retro 650 briefly imported to the US in 2000 and called, uninspiringly, the W2.
This bike was the first hint of Japan's future dominance of the motorcycling market. And here it is at Barber's incredible museum. Now I need to go back and pay attention to everything else they have on display.
So many bikes. So little time.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Barber Motorsports Two

A 500cc parallel twin from Ducati. I wondered at the time why and they in fact built a terrible, unreliable machine and pretty soon it was replaced by a proper V-twin. But Barber has one of the weird and wonderful Ducatis forgotten by everyone else.MV Agusta 800 America. A Dream Bike, four cylinders, shaft drive and cool as all get out.
MV Agusta took a while to figure out what (rich) people wanted and they offered this first, the "Flying Saucer" (Disco Volante) so called for the weird shaped tank. And before that they built a 600cc abomination that looked like this:No really, like this:My first bike was a used 350cc parallel twin by MV Agusta but when I was 16 I would have loved one of these. It looked a million dollars this 125cc single but it wasn't very fast, they say. "25 time world champion" says the sticker on the tank. My 350 had the same sticker. In Italy 16 year olds can ride 125cc motorcycles so this little buzz bomb was aimed at a particular market, and it wasn't old men commuting to work. You think I wasn't drooling over this machine, as slow as it might have been? 65mph would have been enough tucked behind that fairing. This Hercules Wankel was just a bad idea. Norton tried it too and Barber has one of those on display. It didn't make the gas guzzler rotary engine any the better that a company as cool as Norton built one. A few BSA motorcycles taking up space. Check out how vast the five levels are. "As smooth as a Silk" was the advertising slogan for the British built 700cc two stroke twin.
It was based on the Scott Flying Squirrel's engine which Barber had on display (of course). Water cooled in the 1920's? There is nothing new under the sun.
I would have liked to have seen this little beauty up close. The Honda 400 Four was part of the revolutionary line of multi-cylinder motorcycles Honda was building in the 1970s. It was extremely popular for young hooligans. I rode Italian instead.
A Velocette single, looking venerable next to the Honda.
A whole section devoted to the history of Harley Davidson. My grandfather had a Harley similar to this 1929. Very revolutionary in Italy between the Wars.
The nicest of Honda's four cylinders in my opinion, the CB500.
Race bikes don't do much for me but MV is always an exception. This is John Surtees' GP winner from the end of the 1950's.
One last look at the road going MV four cylinders. I wish they had had my old 350 on display.
At the bottom of the stack is the workshop where they restore Lotus race cars as well as the motorcycles for display. No admission to the general public.
A replica of the Easy Rider from the movie, parked above the entrance to the museum.
A Crocker, a revered and much admired bike and there aren't many around. I have seen one up close now at last.
Cool.
A Ducati 200cc single in the foreground and yet another Trumpet up there behind it.
Gilera's Saturno 500 single in racing guise.A pre-war Triumph twin with the Harley Café Racer in the back ground.
Can you see the drool on my face, reflected in the tank of this BSA Clubman?
I wonder if there really would be a market for a modern version of this? Something more reliable than an Indian Enfield?
This was Edward Turner's idea of a commuter bike, a Triumph 21 from 1957 or thereabouts, known as a Bathtub:It didn't sell very well but collectors love them now.
I had a revelation walking around the museum taking pictures and hovering over all these motorcycles. A lot of these machines on display are here because they were the wild failures, the crazy experiments that moved motorcycle design along down the road. These oddballs are tributes to the vision and misplaced zeal of people who wanted to offer us a better way to ride and I am extremely grateful to the people at Barber (and the man himself, known to Johnny Coley by reputation only as the biggest property owner in Birmingham) for the time and energy they have devoted to preserving these iconoclasts of the motorcycle world. Like the Triumph Bathtub, which was far ahead of it's time, Aprilia known to day as a superbike builder, once tried to produce a motorcycle like a scooter that should have appealed to non riding commuters. I wish Triumph offered a motorcycle like this 650:If they did it would probably sell as badly as Aprilia's Moto 6.5 by Phillipe Starck.
A light, fast, good handling street bike with belt drive, excellent gas mileage and large fuel tank to haul a rider, a windshield and dedicated luggage across a continent or to work every day with minimal maintenance (hydraulic tappets are to be included). There's a concept I'd love to see on the road. Perhaps even looking as smooth and classic and slightly odd like this Aprilia! I'm not sure why the ignition key has to be behind the water cooled cyclinder though.What an incredible bunch of bikes.

My visit reaffirmed the power of nostalgia. It's hard to imagine going back to a world where riding a bike was as experimental as it was back then. We were learning to ride long distances, to create luggage suitable for motorcycling, to add windshields that worked and to make clothing that made riding more comfortable. I read about all these modern motorcyclists who are ready to sue at the drop of a hat and who study warranty forms with greater passion than they ever would a shop manual. Back then we rode for fun and we frequently suffered inconveniences when things went wrong and we carried tools because motorcycles could be repaired and jury rigged roadside. A motorcycle stopped by the side of the road was a plea for help and we waved to each other as reassurance that should the need arise we would be there for each other. We didn't wave because we both ride Harleys on the weekend. Clothing was marginal and "safety" was not something fearsome, it was simply the counter balance to risk, and risk yielded joy and that was why motorcycles were good. We were rebels because riding involved getting dirty and wet and tired and we didn't have internet fora to share the pain, each trip was a private accomplishment. While I like my modern Bonneville's reliability (notice I never owned one of the oil leaking, breaking down pieces of shit in the 1970s!) I ride today in the same spirit that I have always ridden, as a way to get away, as a way to arrive without getting bored and frustrated driving a cage. I don't want electrons getting in the way and I am an iconcolast because of that even though I don't feel iconoclastic. I can't recreate the freedom of my own youth but I draw my own lines. For instance I would use electric clothing if I lived Up North, but I don't use Blue Teeth or listen to the radio or make phone calls while I ride. I sing in my helmet, I talk to myself, I compose essays and promptly forget them. I look out at the countryside and remember rides past, I look at the handlebars and think how lucky I am that I am out here riding in the rain while they are in there wishing they had arrived. I always remind my wife that if I die riding it was doing what I wanted to do. The way I want to do it, still, after all these years.

Tomorrow my final essay from the Barber Museum with a look back at my life on two wheels.