Sunday, May 16, 2010

Eating Up The Mainland

A trip to the mainland is an opportunity to eat something different. It's not as though we are restricted to a diet of worms and bivalves, at least most of us who live in the keys aren't......but the wife and I like the opportunity to get some road food under our belts when we wander far from home. Cheyenne has a well developed desire to see distant places, which I expect is a product of too many years trapped in a yard, tried to a chain and producing litters of valuable Labrador puppies. We checked out the back of Bob's Bunz in Islamorada (a town that calls itself, rather pompously, "Village of Islands"):My wife told me to look for somewhere to eat breakfast in the Upper Keys, so the night before we left I got busy at work and rounded up this place, which garners rave reviews in TripAdvisor.It lies about a quarter mile north of World Wide Sportsman, a dreadfully boring place that sells fishing tackle and fishing "lifestyle" stuff. It is a well known landmark in Islamorada ("Village of Islands") the fishing capital of somewhere, the Florida Keys they say. Luckily the wife took charge of seating arrangements while I walked Cheyenne, for by the time we got back and the dog was watered and secure in the car a line was forming.
Bob's Bunz used to be known as something else and the old bakery sign still flies above the highway. I found my wife jealously guarding a table and a cup of coffee was waiting, alongside the largest basket of dairy creamers I have ever seen.One reason I was attracted to Bobs Bunz was the fish breakfast offered, as seen below. My wife had eggs benedict on muffins and a cheerful waitress kept the coffee coming.
Bob is a pastry chef by trade and a large part of the business is selling baked goods. We were advised to order our pastries first as his cinnamon rolls sell out early and we ate breakfast while jealously guarding our little cardboard box. I am quite partial to orange flavored pastry and these bizarre "muffin tops" were quite delicious, even without the body of a muffin underneath:They were somewhat sponge-like resembling thick cookies but crispier than a sponge cake and quite excellent. Mango turnovers? What's not to like?
The worst thing about the restaurant is the tedious theme of Bob's buttocks, nudge, nudge, wink, wink, a sort of parlor game play on words that I found rather tiresome. The food at Bob's Bunz (nudge, nudge, wink, wink, say no more) is worth a second visit. Maybe a third too.

Key West has some excellent eating out but ethnic varieties are in somewhat short supply. Which explains why we frequently get Mexican in Homestead or Indian wherever we can. Vietnamese is something we miss also, especially as we used to live near San Jose, California, home to a vast Vietnamese expatriate community.
Green Papaya in Miami Lakes helped fill the void. I wanted pho, the traditional broth and noodle soup but it was just too hot of a day so we settled on pork with noodles and a pork chop. We usually indulge in a cup of Vietnamese coffee, brewed at your table with a drip filter that drops coffee into a glass of evaporated milk.
On this occasion we went simple though I did order a helping of Mama's Pudding a starchy not-too-sweet concoction of tapioca and yucca that I enjoyed thoroughly (so much so I forgot the camera) and which my wife thought belonged in an English boarding school menu. She put her spoon down and wrinkled her nose as I chased the last scraps round the bowl. Cheyenne is a creature of habit and because it was getting dark it was long past her dinner time, so I whipped out the bowls and got busy after her last walk of the day.For dinner we bought the makings of a picnic, bread salami cheese and Pinot Noir and had dinner al fresco outside Denise's beach house in Briny Breezes. Denise herself was on vacation in Ecuador so we had the house to ourselves. We were stuffed after twelve short hours on the road.
My wife watches the Food Channel when she works out at Pirate Wellness Center on Cudjoe Key. And, because we have no television reception at home she goes on line and downloads recipes and addresses of places she wants to visit. It turns out a highly desirable Jewish deli is in Boynton Beach. Actually it is located in a nondescript strip mall seven miles inland from the ocean:
Luckily for us she had the address stored in her iPhone and we had no trouble locating the deli:American Jews of a certain generation are, in some fashion I cannot quite explain, easily identifiable. For my wife every visit to a Jewish cultural institution, be it a cemetery or a deli is a reminder that she is not alone in a Gentile dominated world. We would have been lucky to be alone. The place was absolutely packed.
It didn't take long and soon we were passed the owner who entertained the waiting line of customers with his own line of patter ("Move forward please. I don't want anyone walking by to think that we are too busy."). At our table we got coffee and, unasked for, coffee cake to eat while we struggled with the million item menu.
My wife settled on an acre of Matzo Brei, a concoction she likes to make at home consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with wetted unleavened bread (Matzo) and in this with some smoked salmon flakes thrown in as well. It was delicious.
We agreed my corned beef hash was the best we'd tasted, and naturally there was far too much of it.
It wasn't like I needed the toasted egg bagel either. And because there was a crazy two-for-one special going on our entire breakfast including coffee came to less than eleven bucks.
I looked around and my wife, who grew up in the Quad Cities, or more precisely Rock Island when she was an infant said the people in the place reminded her of her grandparents' generation. She spent almost her entire life assimilated in Northern California hippie-dom, but she still remembers the Jewish community in Rock Island and she says it looked much like this.They had a lavish pastry section of course and we bought some.
I cannot stand Jewish deli food like whitefish and vinegar and sour cream dunked products. I think eastern European delicacies are, on the whole, revolting.I must confess I did want to try the fish spam on display. I wondered what gefilte fish made properly and not out of a jar might taste like:
A treat perhaps for our next mainland trip, when seeking out what we cannot get at home is the name of the game. Even if it is gefilte fish.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Carmax Redux

We planned to stop by and see what they would give us for the 2002 Nissan which, with 130,000 miles on the clock was ready to move on to it's reward. I was sorry to see it go, it has been a good car until lately when reliability has become an issue, but I loved it's V-6 engine and what I thought was reasonable 28 mpg even with fuel polluted by ethanol. We ended up saying goodbye to the Maxima when Carmax offered us an astonishing $3500 for it.
The beauty of shopping at Carmax is that everything is simple and straightforward. They list the price of the car, and you decide if you want it or not. You wander the lot at will, select what you want to test drive and make up your mind at your own pace. Cheyenne could have stayed here all day but in the end we were in and out in just under three hours.
I am not fond of corporate slogans but this is no lie. They really don't hassle you at all.
This young man saw us wandering outside the fence of the lot at 11:30 and even though this was Sunday and the store wasn't due to open for thirty minutes he got us in and looking ahead of time. He was impressed we had come all the way from Key West to look around.
We had tried to buy new or used in Key West but our attempts generated no interest at all so when we arrived at Carmax and Alivet ushered us in and gave us free rein to wander around we started to remember why we bought my wife's Sebring at this same place. We came prepared to buy...And we had apparently fallen into the right hands to make this all as easy as possible.
In the end we looked at a Nissan Altima (2006 $17,000) and a Mazda 6 (2007 $15,000) but settled on the car I had seen on line in the first place, a 2007 Ford Fusion SEL, 4 cylinder. With the trade in and including tax and fees our final cash bill came to $12,385.18. My wife had budgeted $13,000 plus trade in and so it went. Unfortunately the bank in Key West didn't have enough $100 dollar bills for our needs so we ended up hauling wads of twenties into the sales cubicle. But we got the job done, counting it all three different times.
Half the money was a low interest loan from my wife's sister so we bought the car free and clear. In these weird times this had become more important for my wife, who, every time we had previously gone out to buy a car had quoted a dictum of her long dead father about only buying what you can pay for. Finally we did it- cash on the nail. Cheyenne thoroughly approved (I think).
She joined us in the test ride, sitting patiently in the passenger well behind the driver's seat but we had everything necessary for her ride home in the new-to-us car. Alivet was astonished by her easy going nature. I kept impressing on him the importance of getting a dog from the pound and walking it frequently and far. I even showed him how to use a plastic bag to be a responsible dog owner. He nodded and looked like he understood. Then it was back to counting cash. Adrian gave it a shot.
Stephany followed suit while we signed papers and gave away the Maxima and put the tag on the Fusion. In Florida tags belong to people and when you sell a vehicle you can move the license plate to your new car. Ours was important to us because it says "Monroe" on the plate which means we can park in residential spots in Key West.
We planned to spend the night at a friend's place so we had all kinds of crap to transfer from the Maxima (good bye old friend) to the Fusion (here's hoping...):
Cheyenne seemed content though the Fusion is a little smaller (and more economical happily) than the Maxima.
We drove away, air conditioning blasting (though my wife wanted to try the sunroof immediately). We discovered the rear passenger windows roll down all the way which is excellent for Cheyenne when she has to stay behind in the car and the sunroof also provides added cooling breezes for her when the car is parked in the shade.I like the look of the car certainly, but it has been well reviewed and it drives very nicely, even for an aggressive driver (by US standards) trained in Italy like me. More about that later. We have a new car with 33,000 miles on it and all the stress of the past few weeks has rolled away. Yes, I know it's hugely ironic that as oil continues to gush in the Gulf I am enjoying a new set of wheels. Chalk it up to the human condition and the nagging need for mobility.

Friday, May 14, 2010

Port Pine Heights

I read comments on Key west in TripAdvisor and from time to time find myself astonished by the one sided and peculiarly parochial comments to be found there. Far be it from me to criticize visitors to these islands, but when I read that the Keys are overrun by tourists I laugh up my sleeve at the silly experts. Silly billy Duval walkers. Mind you, if you choose to go off Highway One and cruise Key Deer Boulevard on Big Pine Key you won't find much refreshment.Like so many developments from decades ago the planners grasp fell rather short of their reach and as result there is plenty of open space around here which could be classified as "dead ground" were you planning a military assault on the unsuspecting snowbirds in their stilt homes.
Which dead ground makes a Labrador happy, at least for a while on a hot morning. Port Pine Heights (heights? really?) was first claimed and platted in 1914 by one Silas Knowles who owned some land and apparently planned big things for this chunk of open space. However the development of the scrub land didn't start to get underway until 1951, a time when the Depression was a memory, World War Two was won and it was time for people to win their place in the sun. The development of cheap and available air conditioning didn't hurt. these are not homes built to be enjoyed without all modern conveniences.Cape Coral in southwest Florida has the same over developed layout, and I find these vast open spaces between homes rather attractive. It makes Port Pine Heights seem like a misanthrope's refuge. It probably isn't really but it sure looks that way and makes me rather envious of the lack of neighbors.
Then there are those valiant souls who tried and failed:
Welcome indeed, and this is a neighborhood watch zone. Superb eyesight must be a requirement for all residents.And naturally those developers left behind a magnificent gate to nowhere. I love these incongruities. What were they thinking?
Things in the keys changed substantially with two innovations around here. Locally a Key Deer refuge was instituted pitting people versus animals and creating a certain amount of animosity. The refuge also had the effect of slowing development. Then in 1975 Tallahassee put the Keys under direct control designating the entire county as an area of Critical Concern, which had the effect of making the issuing of building permits a slow and arduous process.When you drive the Keys and see what a total lack of planning has led to, neon, signage and ugly crass commercialization you have to figure it all came a bit too late, but there it is. Now we live in an era when the critical concern designation is holding up big plans for more overarching development there are plans to remove the designation and make the Keys open for a free-for-all once again. There are some barriers firmly in place thanks to the Feds.I rather liked the white band painted around this West Indian Almond Tree. It reminds me of the roadside plane trees lining the routes in France. Perhaps we should rename this the Freedom Tree?
Granted this is now officially low season and the winter residents have all scurried off to their oases of cool green pleasure Up North but even in winter you won't see a stream of tourists coming out here to inspect the back country. And that, I hope, is the charm that will remain.
Canals have been dredged into the rock for the development but that sort of behavior was stopped a long time ago and what you have is what you get and no more. Around here the canals have a delightfully rural aspect to them:
In Keys parlance a home not on a canal is a "dry" lot, one that has access to a canal is a "wet" lot. It has nothing to do with susceptibility to flooding (though proximity to a canal may have this as a side effect!).
Many homes have seawalls which require upkeep. Mangroves are now protected as they nurture fish nurseries and quell waves and preserve land. In the bad old days they slashed and burned and poured cement.
I rather liked the rural nature of this home built floating dock.
This kind of home is known as CBS (concrete block structure) which lacks stilts to keep it above the putative flood plain. This home is built up on a heap of dirt that has a similar effect. Classic Florida architecture from the 1960s development boom.There are some homes with open water views, and they command premium prices, higher than wet lots.
Key Deer Boulevard is five miles long from the traffic light at Highway One, and here is the northernmost point of this piece of Big Pine Key. Actually there is a trail up there but that will be for another day. If Cheyenne is lucky we will return at a cooler time of day...If I have described Port Pine Heights as lacking in amenity I have done them an injustice:The true value is this:And as off the beaten track as it is around here there is no one to see exactly what goes on out of sight. To an external observer I looked like any other Monroe county tagged vehicle. The truth is otherwise.

There again, who cares? These people have other things on their minds. Like how to use all the open space around their homes. These are luxury sized lots:
Some people value their motorcycles and put them on pedestals as it were.
Poignant I suppose, though this is a 30mph neighborhood so one is left wondering what happened.And surrounding this cluster of well spaced homes is the precious refuge. Whatever you feel about deer eating ornamental shrubbery, the refuge means this lot will never get developed.
And that has to be a good thing. We don't want everyone finding out about these destinations. Else they'll want to start building bars and markets and attractions and who knows what. Then where will I walk Cheyenne in peace and quiet?