Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Summertime Asheville

Asheville, city of 80,000 people in a metropolitan area of about 400,000 people, Buncombe County seat, home to a campus of the University of North Carolina, this is a bustling city, always high on the most livable lists, filled with hip young people and at the forefront of fads. Cycling is de rigeur, but not just as Lycra hobby or sport, but as a way of life.It is a tourist attraction, and a town that also attracts young people who want to have children and raise families in a wholesome urban environment.This is the heart of the community supported agriculture movement in North Carolina, home to brew pubs and street fairs and agricultural coops and farmer's markets.Want a lute? Or a lute lesson? Just look around on the street you never know. It may be a ukulele or a banjo for all I know but it looked like a lute is all I can say in my defense.Asheville is clean and prosperous and until not too long ago wasn't too expensive to live in. I did see apartments in the Kress building downtown going for $500,000 or $1800 a month lease-to-own, but perhaps there are bargains to be had if you look.To live in Asheville means braving winters with night time freezing temperatures though summers are sunny and green and delightful. Asheville is the sort of urban renewal program that is pushed by proponents of moving away from suburban sprawl. Shops on the ground floor and apartments above is normal around here. People use sidewalks to walk. Imagine that.
Or sit.There is always something to catch the eye as you stroll in downtown Asheville.Hip scooters, a pretty Vespa. Learn this message in Asheville, it's everywhere:
Organic isn't enough anymore. Now the mantra is to consume locally sourced everything. restaurants list their local ingredients and the sources of their foods. Supermarkets tout their local sources of supply. It's back to the earth with a vengeance. Soy is out- it travels too far to become your food. Local is in. eating meat is okay now, as long as it is local and humanely raised.Big box stores and chains don't stand a chance here where locals shop locally and expect to find locals staffing local stores. Like all fads it is driven to exasperation in Asheville, to the great benefit of those of us who appreciate this way of life. One hopes it will catch on all over the place.
Any store that parks a working Road King on the shop floor has my vote.Layne and I agreed we need this relating to chickens.She was going to buy me this t-shirt but when I said "Nice" and shrugged my shoulders she begged off and said I had too many shirts as it is. That was close...Summertime is lovely.These kinds of store names are very common around here. Everybody (except me) has to believe in something apparently.Tops is a fabulous old fashioned shoe store with clerks who know their business and all the brands of shoe you know and some you don't. I buy all my shoes here and they are quality products.
Street life in Asheville.
One big disadvantage of north Carolina is the helmet law. Naturally this is a southern state so there are no pretensions to universal health care but they do require the noggin to be covered at all times. Even when puttering on a little Ruckus.
Hip people riding expensive bicycles wear helmets too though happily for adults this is not mandated.
Get this: tags are not required for 50cc bikes. Weird but true. Wear a helmet not a license plate.Some thoughtful people are predicting a rather imminent end to our industrialized way of life so the notion that eating local is the best way to go may, in their minds, become he only way to eat as the cost of oil gets higher and higher. In Asheville they are getting ready far quicker than the rest of us.
At Mast the outdoor store they speak of themselves as outfitters, as though they help people to prepare their polar expeditions. To me,it's just a toy store, a camping shop with knick knacks and rugged looking clothing for the urban trekker. The women in the company had fun.
There it is, a town with frigid winters, warm summers, tons of outdoor activities close by, dog friendly as far as I could tell thanks to the many sidewalk tables, and lots of third spaces for citizens to hang out in. Vegetarians, Buddhists and cyclists preferred.
We left town to take Highway 19 to Burnsville and the family mountain retreat at Celo.
21st century progress is being felt here with a four lane highway under construction. Commuters out here want easy drives, not organic cycling shorts. Progress with an old fashioned capital P. Peak Oil be damned.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Mr Friendly's in Columbia

This essay refers back to the second day of our vacation,on the road from Ramrod Key to Asheville, the beginning of our ten day tours of places a little cooler, supposedly, than the Florida Keys. We had spent the first night on the road in a motel on the outskirts of Savannah and to get us on the road to South Carolina my wife's GPS chose for some reason to send us the scenic route out of town, over the river on this rather impressive toll free bridge. It gave us,momentarily a view of the downtown we had just left (chronicled in a recent essay here), the spires of the river city, Georgia's main industrial outlet to the sea.
My wife is, by her own accounting, a useless map reader. Despite years of frustration on my part she is worse than useless at reading a marine chart or a road map and because I like to drive (and my wife trusts me behind the wheel) I end up navigating and driving. No more. The introduction into our lives of the miraculous iPhone with it's GPS capabilities has changed all that. Now my wife navigates with confidence and tells me, unerringly, where to go. She uses the Global Positioning System with far more ease on her phone than she ever did on our sailboat. Amazing. She still tells me to stop when she sees a stand that looks interesting by the roadside.Highway 17 up the coast from Savannah to Charleston and Morehead North Carolina is a delightful scenic route passing through small brick towns, leafy woods and gazillions of people offering honey, boiled peanuts and delicious sauces and spices and pickled vegetables. I highly recommend it.We plan to pay another visit on our way home later this week. In this instance we rejoined the freeway, I-95 to I-26 bound for Columbia, the capital of South Carolina and thence up the mountains to Asheville. First we had to find lunch and Layne's iPhone worked it's magic. She asked it for recommendations fo southern cooking in Columbia and back the answer came Mr Friendly's New Southern Café (803 254 7828, no reservations, lunch and dinner daily, closed Sunday). It was seven miles across town from the Interstate but Mr iPhone directed us unerringly. Scooters it seems are now officially everywhere.Of course the blessed iPhone could only get us to the block where we promptly found parking, but we had to walk and ask for directions to this hidden gem, literally a back street hole in the wall, in what appears to be Columbia's hip student district.
"Would she like ice in her water?" the young cheerful waiter asked us. "My dog likes ice in his ..." Oh hell,why not. We lashed Cheyenne to a convenient railing and took an outdoor seat on a delightfully warm, yet sweat free afternoon. from a menu that features salmon croquettes, pan fried catfish and po'boys and salads my wife ordered an astounding sandwich of crab, fried green tomatoes and pimento cheese which was as delicious as it sounds bizarre, while I went for the more staid but equally fine shrimp and grits offering which had perfect grits and crisp grilled shrimp arranged on a bed of salsa in the center of the plate. My wife risked a glass of red sangria which was fresh and delicious while I was stuck with the driver's sangria (unsweetened) iced tea. In the midst of all this bounty I noticed our very friendly waitress was wearing a particular t-shirt. "Come again, bring a friend!" was printed on the back while a photo of a gnarled old black dude was on the front.
"He was a well loved long time employee," she said in answer to my question. "He died a few months ago and we had these shirts made. He was famous for saying goodbye to customers with the phrase on the back." Very cool thought I, and then i did what I have never done before and I asked the young woman if I could take a photograph of her chest. She did it with pride as you see above."Nobody has ever asked to take a picture of my chest so nicely," she said as she went to get our slice of mango pie. (Lucky riepe wasn't here I thought to myself or that could have gone badly). "I can't believe you asked her that!"my wife hissed at me as I sat down drooling at the thought of mango pie. " I don't know if I'm going to like riepe..." she muttered. Too bad thought I, as I nurtured the realization that I had done what I had done and had a picture to prove it.
Cheyenne and I went for a walk along the railroad tracks next to the parking lot, leaving the wife to scrounge through her purse to find the $44 needed to pay for our extravagant and delicious lunch. As you can see Mr Friendly's is well camouflaged, off Columbia's Greene Street.
We stumped down the railroad tracks for a quarter of a mile and came to small park overlooked by some lovely, yet modern, homes. They deal in lots of signs around here.
Of the formal and informal type.
The other side of the tracks was rather more...light industrial, let's say, than this genteel spot.
This is not a sight you get to see very often in a blog normally about the Florida Keys, so here it is. Actual Railroad Tracks.
I should not have dissuaded my wife from adding a quarter or two to the meter, because 44 minutes it turned out was insufficient for our leisurely luncheon. However she wasn't mad at all as an expired meter in Columbia garners the city but $7. In Key west it's $25. We put a check in the mail the next day and did NOT dial 9-1-1 to bitch about it. You'd be surprised how many assholes do when they come to Key West and decide not to take responsibility for themselves.
Full of good food and good cheer we wended our way back to the freeway and got in line behind this wide load. He was going fast enough I felt no compunction about following his load (Riepe's Ass was written below the sign in small print) and I have never seen a wide load pass traffic with such ease and verve as this guy. He gets a gold star for outstanding driving in my book. I wish everyone were as swift and capable as he was.
As we approached the North Carolina state line in the foothills the sky darkened and we entered the maws of hell. Rain and wind came down so hard and so fast we felt 20 mph was speeding in those conditions. It seemed tropical.
But eventually we worked our way out of the rain and climbed the mountains, the Ford Fusion pulling like a champ. It was just a great day on the road and let's not forget I asked her if I could photograph her chest. A big step forward for timid little me.

Monday, June 21, 2010

The Galley Is Back

There are those who think photographing food is weird. To them I say this:My wife for some reason was not enamored of her seafood quiche so I got to eat some of it and I thought it was excellent. This is the second time we have eaten at the Galley on Summerland Key since it reopened and even though the quiche was not what my wife ended up wanting we still agree that this is a good place to eat. When you eat out in the Keys with three teachers you end up meeting pupils and ex-students everywhere. Lisa on the left, taught our waitress in Junior High. They had some catching up to do.Josh thinks I am goofy with my camera. There is no doubt he is goofy with a piece of bacon. But as Buffalo Bill never tires of pointing out everything goes better with bacon.
Moore food. Lisa enjoyed her eggs (I hate runny eggs is her mantra).Josh had the Hobo breakfast with runny eggs- a potent plate of biscuits and gravy with that dreaded bacon on the side. Me? I had a Monte Cristo, which I somehow failed to photograph. I was first introduced to this French toast sandwich by a colleague on the night shift. Johanna has moved to Cape Coral but it is to her i owe my knowledge of this typically American concoction. Dip bread in egg and fry. Pack with ham and swiss cheese and grill and cover with maple syrup. Eat with knife and fork. I don't often have a Monte Cristo but when it is on the menu I will order one and take my hat off to the late great Johanna for sharing one with me one dark night in the dispatch center five years ago. I think indoor seating is best when it's 90 degrees (32C) and humid (and it's only June! OMG!! Gag with me a ventilator!!) but they do have outdoor seating for hardier types or winter residents.
Look for the turquoise roof under the blazing sun at Mile Marker 25: This is one of the few, ever ugly billboards grandfathered and allowed to blight the Lower Keys. What the add means I have no idea. What are those two round things? And when I compared Progressive to Geico I found Geico massively more expensive. These aren't lies on the scale of BP but corporate lying comes in all forms. doesn't it? Ah yes, tucked away where zombies in cars can hardly manage to hit it, is my Bonneville. A fine end to a splendid breakfast, a ride in the sun.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Jack of the Wood

Usually when I am in Asheville, in the mountains of western North Carolina, the trees are dormant, the leaves have fallen and winter has the city and the forests around it, in it's grip. The tough part about having relatives living here is they expect you to visit at Christmas, when the weather sucks. "Oh," they say blithely," this snow and freezing weather is really unusual." But because they have said that every winter I have been here the excuse tends to look rather lame and one concludes winters in Asheville are for the tough. Summers, now that's a different thing altogether.The city is set on a series of hills, rather like Rome, and the streets dip and lurch violently up and down between brick buildings that soar over the countryside like skyscrapers, simply because they are perched on pointed pieces of land. The views up the narrow alleys between the buildings show off green humps of mountains that surround the city. There's a lot going on in this vibrant university town and my relatives love to be humans doing so we tend to be in a flurry of activity every time we come. Thus it was, when Jeffrey suggested trying Green Man Ales I suggested a visit to my nephew Jacob our first night. His eyes lit up, whether at the prospect of beer or an evening away from his two rambunctious infants I know not but we got going before the family calendar of events had a chance to sweep us up into the usually bee hive of planned activities. Thank you Jeffrey, it was a splendid idea.Mountain people in Asheville tend to be hip, the women in flimsy hippie dresses and the men with beards and suspenders. They even wear shorts in the summer but as a heatwave has been upon the Southeast this year we could all use a pair of shorts this year. It was around 85 degrees at dusk in this mountain town. Cheyenne guarded the car in the post office parking lot, where, unlike Key West, you do not get towed after hours. Very nice.The place was packed but the noise level was more of a hum than a yelling contest. People were soberly enjoying the beers and it was an entirely civilized place to sit at a rough hewn wooden table and drink as a social activity not as who can get drunkest contest. Also unlike Key West.While I was downloading these pictures four year old Aidan peered over my shoulder ("Look- don't touch!" was my frantic admonition. I am not good with children) "That's my Daddy!" he shouted gleefully Indeed there is Jacob enjoying beer and an evening away from the family, which is a treat because he is a good family man. Jacob's only ambition has been to raise a family in Asheville, his home town and he is doing so successfully so what you are looking at here is a happy man. Look long and hard, they aren't easy to come by.The myth of the Jack of the Woods or Green Mis hard to pin down as it grew out of an oral tradition in the England of the Dark Ages and seems to refer to a woodland deity depicted as you see above. It is some sort of pagan myth of rebirth and renewal and that sort of thing. But the good news is it is also used in England as a name for pubs, herewith adapted in Asheville, which prides itself on being a hub of the grow local eat local movement trying to sweep the more hip parts of America. So we listened to local music, a jam session in the far corner of the pub, while drinking local beer.India Pale Ale, a strong beer for strong men and at 9 dollars a pitcher not hard to like.The music was not intrusive, the atmosphere was inviting. We sat and drank and talked for what seemed like hours, probably because it was. "I need something to eat," Jacob said. I said we would order food he had never before tried because Jacob prefers the safe and familiar.I ordered a Scotch Egg and an side of parsnip fries. The fries were overdone and our waitress looked at them sniffed and said we deserved better. She went back to the kitchen and told them not to overcook them and brought us a second batch. This is a good place to come and hang out I think.Jacob wasn't sure about the fibrous sweet parsnips but he liked the Scotch Egg, a boiled egg encased in sausage meat, rolled in bread crumbs and deep fried. Typical English food of the 1960s made delicious by modern adaptation. Seen here served cut in half with a swirl of mustard on each half and some unexpected greens in the middle. The parsnips are the undistinguished dark mass to the right, the overcooked serving.
Eventually we got up, but Jacob wasn't finished so we set off in search of dessert. Along the way Bib accosted us. I had seen him earlier talking to woman on the sidewalk so i asked him how he did it, talked to babes like that. He looked nonplussed and launched into his joke telling which culminated in a request for money for food "I don't drink!" he assured us earnestly. Fool, I wanted to tell him, the beer at the pub is delicious. My wife found a five dollar bill for him. Just like Key West where the panhandlers unfortunately aren't so creative. Here's a fad we should bring to Key West, a nice quiet place to sit and eat and drink chocolate, beer and wine.The French Broad chocolate Lounge is one of Jacob's favorite places. "The pot de creme" he kept moaning in delirium as we stood at the back of a long line of chocoholics waiting our turn. The tiny truffles in myriad flavors are made on the premises and cost $2 a piece. A cup of thick hot chocolate to drink costs $3.25.Gimme chocolate! They begged, the addicts.Want chocolate? Buffalo Bill will be happy to know that bacon chocolate bars are for sale in dark and milk chocolate versions. At $8 each they had better be good. I went for the milk chocolate model. We had the pot de creme, finally, (it was good), chocolate creme brulee and a ghastly hot pepper brownie which burned my mouth intensely and completely such that I need more chocolate. It was serious. I had my fill.And still they were in line waiting patiently for more.
A hell of an evening, I'd say.We paid for our indulgence the next morning. Ever shared a soggy breakfast with a four year old?I have, now. An experience not to be missed. Where's my beer?