Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Supermoon

I thought people were making some stupid joke about naked buttocks when I started hearing about a supermoon this week. In fact it seems astronomers (and astrologers) were totally excited by this phenomenon. I took my lunch break at Rest Beach with a Coke Zero (caffeine is my friend during Spring Break Chaos on night shift) and my trusty pocket camera.I sat on the bench at the water's edge and contemplated the shining white disc overhead. I have to say it looked pretty much like any other full moon I've ever seen, all round and white and everything. Had I not known it was the largest such moon seen in 20 years I would not have noticed the extra light shining around me. I am not all sure it was extra bright in any useful way but I suppose one has to join in the Hallmark merriment of the occasion. Besides there isn't going to be another supermoon until November 14th 2016.In fact humans wasting energy lighting up the Great Outdoors still made brighter light than our supermoon event.The ocean south of Rest Beach looks pretty bright but I had the camera sitting on the table, with a two second delay and the shutter set to open for ten long seconds to get the desired effect. The two second delay gives the camera the opportunity to settle down and stop moving after I fat finger the shutter release.When my wife and I (and our dogs) were out sailing I always had mixed feelings about full moon nights. On passages they were comforting at some level in the hope that I might actually be able to see something if it should appear up ahead of our traveling home, but those were the nights when being on watch meant the sky was devoid of stars and galaxies and all the paraphernalia visible on new moon nights.The supermoon was 221,565 miles from Earth, or 356,575 kilometers. I grew up with the notion that the sun is 93 million miles away and the moon a quarter million so I guess that is, astronomically speaking, quite close. Perigee came and went and despite predictions of calamity by people who believe in the supernatural. However some nutters connect natural disasters with supermoons giving rise to suggestions that the Japanese tsunami- earthquake fiasco may be connected in some way. Which would be odd as the moon was miles further out at the time.Even as I sat minding my own business at Rest Beach pondering the moon up there with it's human footprints and space debris on the surface from here to eternity a whole bunch of people in Libya were going up in flames. That knowledge alone, never mind radiated spinach in Japan and a whole new oil slick in the Gulf of Mexico and Iran getting pissy with Saudi Arabia, was enough to make me glad to be here and now and doing nothing more invasive than enjoying a lunch break. Hell I have a job, with a mythical pension and health benefits. Hip hip hooray, all that seems improbably fortunate in a world hell bent on wrecking absolutely everything.And let's not forget the Bonneville, closing in on 50,000 miles and running as sweet as ever.Summer time has moved the dawn back to close to seven o'clock in the morning (and dusk to almost 8pm- lovely!) so my ride home across the Overseas Highway now takes place at night essentially. I felt compelled to stop my headlong plunge into the night and whip out my camera for a few more unsupported pictures (my gorillapod was conveniently in the shed at home). Puny headlights below, and the supermoon above...which is brighter?It was when the ridiculously named Hale-Bopp comet was visible overhead almost twenty years ago that I realised something that struck me as profound at the time. I was living in California at the time and Santa Cruz is a horrible place to observe the heavens. marine inversion, commonly known as fog, blankets the night skies most of the time and yet despite all the odds I was out walking the dogs and there it was- a streak of white in one distant corner of the sky. But I had to look for it. It occurred to me that in centuries past people had been overwhelmed and awed by these natural phenomena. They noted comets passing in the history books, they fell to their knees and prayed to the gods to spare them.These days we create so much artificial light we can barely see what is going on overhead. I am always grateful that my street has no lights, and when my neighbors come down from Up North and light up everything with their ghastly spotlights I pray, as only an atheist can pray, for a power outage.The night skies down here have their own magic on full moon nights of any kind. The clouds float overhead like they do everywhere and illuminate the sky with their reflected light. But down here in the sub tropics the night is warm and in summer it's a relief from the heat of the day. One can observe the moon in a t-shirt with no fear of hypothermia.For that same reason I like riding at night, the warmth of the night air makes it pleasurable, the darkness makes it mysterious and the power of the headlight gives one a fleeting feeling of control in the tiny cone of light. It amazes me how easily we continue to move through storms, fog, darkness and snow, we endeavor never to lose our mobility. In Japan I read of people living lives of devastation, lack of gasoline, no food and feeble shelter in the bitter winter cold. yet, people living two hours away by car are affected by power outages and "non threatening" levels of radiation while their neighbors pick through garbage to assuage their visceral hunger.And all of this is powered by cheap abundant energy- take away the affordable oil and it turns out we end up back in the Middle Ages. No gasoline means no food, no jobs, no modern industrialised comfort.

Were my seven inch headlight to go dim I'd be by the side of the road picking my way on foot along the trail, by the light of the supermoon, praying to the Gods to keep me safe. Better that perhaps than continuing to hope that human ingenuity can keep us safe without blowing us all to Kingdom Come in one big tsunami powered radioactive fireball. Not to worry they tell us, it's all quite safe, which might as well be an incantation to unseen gods who power supermoons and direct our lives from the outer darkness of outer space. The light of the moon we know is quite safe. The light from our human reactors, not so much.

Monday, March 21, 2011

St Augustine And Home

I had a hankering to see St Augustine by day but first we drove through the town to check out the beaches.The Bridge of Lions which seemed rather less massive and impressive in real life than as depicted in pictures. In all directions radiating from the core old town section of the city we saw normal humdrum everyday neon America. You could be two blocks from the ancient homes of the city's past and you wouldn't know it. Here on the beach on Anastasia Island, the sandy barrier island that separates St Augustine from the Atlantic Ocean: A1A is a wide coastal highway that drives straight south: In the midst of all our preoccupations with a "recovering" economy, nuclear meltdown and the Middle East going up in smoke and taking the world's oil supply with it, there are a bunch of kooks worrying about the burqa coming to the US. And they have the money to waste on billboards. Anything to distract the sheeple.Beach access was rather problematic around here too. Technically in Florida the beach up to the high tide mark is public. In fact all you have to do is develop the shit out of the landward side and most people are cut out.We did find a small county park where some Spring Break volunteer planting was underway.And some strange dude was walking his dog by driving in circles. I have no doubt this dog would envy Cheyenne her freedom to roam and sniff and check things out properly.Ah! Beach access...and dogs were allowed on the beach on a leash. I figured Cheyenne wanted to spend her time street walking as she isn't much of a beach dog. Me neither.
We went back to the mainland, enjoying a brief view of the marshy hinterland:Recently we have seen lots of debate in Key West about private property tows and what to do about them. They generate lots of money for tow companies and lots of ill feeling. St Augustine has a brilliantly simple and innovative solution to this vexing problem:St Augustine in sunlight is quite ravishing.
Narrow streets brought out stupid in his truck, here as in many other cities. The gas truck left plenty of room for vehicles to pass but the driver of the pick up truck was shouting and making a meal of the problem. He eventually backed up and let the cars by and when i walked past he had a foot of room on each side of his truck to squeeze past the gas truck making it's delivery. I figure if you can't cope with a large vehicle drive something smaller- penis size be damned!
One reason I keep trundling along with my blog is because taking pictures forces me to look, really look at stuff that comes into view in my life day after day. Then I have to, by my nature, add words and opinions. Too often when one lives in a remarkable place familiarity as they say breeds contempt. I wonder if locals walk past this house and barely notice it on their way to work.The main drag is full of tourist shops, all in good taste I might add, no bongs or titty t-shirts, and it made for quite a pleasant stroll in the late morning sun.
Many of the streets are closed to cars and skateboards and the like. I don't think skateboards are very compatible with cobblestoned streets.
No pets, no food, no ice cream (which isn't food in some people's minds, apparently), no strollers blah blah blah.
For people who fear the heat it's worth noting this town at the top of Florida was sensibly cooler than the Florida Keys, particularly after the sun went down. By day it still got up close to 80 degrees but I found the weather to be perfect. So did lots of others judging by these pictures.
And of course the pirate nonsense is promulgated here as it is in Key west. However St Augustine did actually get ravaged by pirates unlike the Southernmost City. In 1688 Robert Searle, a British privateer (a chartered pirate essentially) did a number on the city raping and pillaging all he could see.And then Cheyenne and I crossed the street and took in the beauty of St Mark's Fort. The British occupied St Augustine from 1763 to 1783, a period when Caribbean colonies were swapping hands at a dizzying rate between France, Britain, the Netherlands and Spain, and the Spanish San Marcos was renamed by the new occupiers, who also left their mark by building a bakery in town. Such was the measure of progress in the 18th century.Pets are not allowed inside the Castillo de San Marcos but we took our ease together outside. This is a good spot for contemplation.The city provides lots of moorings for boat visitors.And of course what would a city be without a pretty waterfront? I suppose it might be an inland city...Cheyenne was ready to do some people watching in the shade of the outer wall of the fort.Not everyone found the view of the old fort completely absorbing. The fort is built to a Spanish design that is familiar to anyone that has travelled the former colonies of Spain in the new world. I have a print photo somewhere of me standing with my previous dog in a sentry turret just like the one shown below. Except it was in the former colonial harbor of Portobello on Panama's Caribbean coast.Estuarine views.
And there goes one of those trolleys so beloved in Key West. We thought about taking a tour but time was short. The key West tours last 90 minutes cost $22 as I recall and are extremely informative. That they drive residents nuts is an unfortunate by-product.
"And this is the end the used hay comes out from..." City kids meeting their grandparent's wheels.And then it was time to go home, but this time we zipped straight down the East Coast on I-95. I love the little white Sunpass box on my windshield which gives easy access to Florida's Turnpike, which is the direct route to Homestead and the start of the Florida Keys.But before we got to Homestead we stopped at Flakowitz's Jewish Deli in Boynton Beach so my wife could reconnect with her people through liver and pastrami and potato pancakes and pickles while I had a monumental grilled meatloaf and cheese sandwich with some really crispy fries.It looked for a while like summer might be coming to south Florida but the cloudy skies prodcued no torrential downpours and we arrived home with no drama to round out our brief jaunt Up North.
Homestead always looks lovely, small town America is the fading sunlight.


And from there home to our little stilt house on the canal, where Cheyenne jumped out of the car wagging her tail madly.