One thing I try to do with my blog is record the passing of time, or the way things look and what we take to be "normal" today that may be odd tomorrow. I also try to use my camera to take a look at things that otherwise I might not notice. Public phone use, there's something not easily grasped if you were teleported from life 20 years ago.
So what's more stimulating, the Cypress House repository of lived-in history right at his back or some 139 character message from someone else wearing their headgear sideways? Had he looked up he'd have seen a sight not often noticed on Key West streets, a cyclist with intent. She rode a ten speed and pedaled easily and swiftly like someone with a destination in mind.
A beach cruiser she was not. He was:
The open space where Jabours Trailer Park was; and it remains open and unused though not protected by silly signs. Schooner Wharf bar in the background. Under the development plans that came to naught, some feared noise (aka music) from the bar would annoy the new upscale neighbors and lead to it's closing. Not so far!
A Yamaha XS100, the super bike of my youth seen here in ghastly cruiser garb. I saw lots more older bikes around Key West this past winter. I hope rising gas prices bring more old machines onto the streets. See Chuck on Fleming if you have a free wreck ready for restoration.
It must get annoying living on a street where visitors feel compelled to steal the street sign. Here Cheyenne stands next to a home made sign that reads "Donkey Milk Lane" according to The Streets of Key West this was a place where the owner of a donkey sold milk supposedly.
Tourists feel compelled to steal the sign to take back home to their blandly named streets Up North. Sucks to be you I guess if you have to steal interesting street names to spiff up your life.
I thought I did an essay on Donkey Milk but I can't find one searching my blog so I guess one will appear soon enough. Doing laundry seems tough enough at a public laundry but to have a busy child in tow makes it much worse. She did not seem the least bit phased.
It just goes to show how narrow minded anyone can be but I had never previously considered putting a scooter top box on a bicycle. Yet here one is:
Millions and millions for the wreckage you see before you. Who's going to loan you the money? A bank too big to fail? I think not.
I am predicting prices even here will have to fall a good bit further to find bottom. Realtors disagree. Some people make do with no home at all and take up temporary residence in a church flower bed.
Nice checkered underwear too. One gets the feeling sometimes that Prohibition was not a completely bad idea. In this next picture what you have is a pedestrian caught in the act of crossing Eaton Street against the light and getting caught by a car that had to slam it's brakes on. Do you see the resentment in his eyes? Better perhaps he should have got knocked over to learn the lesson.
Just another reason I try to avoid downtown during busy winters. This next one is a man in a million who stops to answer his phone even if he did leave the engine running while he chatted.
Who is Louise Bourgeois et pourquoi nous l'aimons?
Monday, March 28, 2011
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Wandering Old Town 1
I paid my 25 dollar co-pay at the doctor's office, took my off work chit (four days off sick- doctor's orders) and said good afternoon to the office staff enjoying a classic American work lunch, hot dogs from the hot dog place around the corner, eaten hastily at their desks.
One patient in line in front of me was having trouble figuring out his insurance. Changes had left him swinging in the wind. At the pharmacy they told me it would take 90 minutes by Walgreens staff to put my 30 antibiotic pills in a bottle. A man in line in front of me, 12 years younger than me, asked about his stomach medicine. "No word from the insurance," the clerk said. "Try tomorrow." The man shrugged cheerfully and walked off taking his untreated stomach complaint with him. "No Insurance?" read a banner at the pharmacy, "Ask about..." some plan to give away low cost medicines as charity for a while. The newspaper is carrying full page ads lately offering a free thirty day trial of some new chemical wonder guaranteed to improve your quality of life. A friend wrote to me recently saying he'd had to drop his four hundred dollar a month prescription as too costly. He opposes single payer health care as socialism. You get what you deserve I guess. I liked this picture of customers at Bank of America looking hopefully at their money machine. Their posture summed up my attitude toward banks too big to fail. I much prefer banking at my locally owned bank, First State.
Key West continues to see an influx of visitors. I hope next year will be just as good, when we read that Detroit has lost about half of it's population. Not all municipalities do as well as the Southernmost City.
I wonder what the world will look like when she's my age?
The latest storm in a teacup has been about the new signage downtown. Street names are being painted in lower case like this:
Instead of like this:
Too hard to read they say in the Citizen's Voice column. Dear oh dear, so cranky over so little. Be glad you aren't the object of bombing raids and food deprivation I say.
Life continues at the usual pace in Key West though I have heard a lot of complaints about how crowded the town has been this winter.
I drank Fernet Branca once and I recall vividly throwing up copiously after I did. The memory came flooding back when I saw this odd sticker on the bike. Who drinks Fernet in Key West?
I am very fond of Badboy Burritos on Simonton Street and when I see their purple Vespa 50 out making deliveries I am always glad to know I am not alone.
This old Vespa hack used to sit on Duval advertising boat rides but it doesn't actually run. If it ran it would have to be licensed another and more expensive way. So they push it back and forth around the corner. There is no dignity to commerce it seems.
My new bougainvillea is stone cold dead. I am jealous every time I see some flourishing.
More cyclists...
...out enjoying the best way to get around Old Town.
The Conch train is another way to get a round town, $22 for 90 minutes packed with information. It does get tedious for people who live and work where the trains run incessantly all day long. This the Casa Antigua was where Hemingway first lived in Key West, the street was informed by loud speaker.
Now it's a gifte shoppe called Pelican Poope. Like I said, no dignity in commerce.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Garrison Bight Marina
This essay was first published three years ago and I figured perhaps while I am laid up I could give it another airing on my blog.
Some people call this Houseboat Row, because this is where the houseboats of South Roosevelt Boulevard washed up, but to me its just part of Garrison Bight Marina. The City of Key West owns two marina properties, one is Key West Bight, near Schooner Wharf and the other is Garrison Bight in the middle of the island, with a narrow opening to the Gulf of Mexico to the north. (A bight in nautical lingo is an indentation in a coastline, or a loop in a length of rope).
Garrison Bight is a well protected marina when the weather turns rough, and because it's city owned the dock rates are lower by a few hundred dollars month than those of the private marinas downtown or on Stock Island. However in a town like Key West where a one bedroom apartment can cost a thousand dollars month, a marina slip at less than $800 a month can seem like a bargain. But that's not all that goes on at Garrison Bight, people don't just live there:


Sport fishing is a big deal in the Keys, obviously, and there's a whole line of boats parked at charter boat row waiting for clumps of customers to show up for a day on the water. Humans aren't the only anglers, and hopefuls come in all shapes:
For a lot of people the dream job is running a charter fishing boat. Its a dream everyone should fulfill, because speaking as a former Captain myself, the life has a bunch of drawbacks. It confirmed my opinion that the lucky man is the one who keeps his hobbies and his jobs separate. I enjoy writing my blog a lot more because I do it for fun, not a living. That was written as a former journalist, not a former boat captain. But youth is a great time to be sorting your equipment on your charter boat:
But these are modern times so we have abandoned the old ways and no longer use roofs to collect rainwater, instead we suck water out of the ground and pump it 150 miles to our faucets with predictable results, not enough to go around:
However this is the land of abundance so we still get to use plenty of it! It'll be a bad day in the Keys when boaters can't keep their vessels clean. Garrison Bight is a strangely shaped marina bisected by Palm Avenue and a low bridge, the bridge prevents sailboats getting into the inner sanctum but its a main artery out of Old Town and sees lots of use, especially in the evening rush hour:
The top of the bridge, for all that its probably only twenty feet above the water gives a nice view to the pedestrian at the top. To the northwest the landmark Fly Navy building, properly known as the Bachelor Officers Quarters (or BOQ) a delightfully old fashioned 1950's style of architecture when viewed from the inside:
To the left the cluster of buildings is the last boatyard in Key West, Spencer's, still a working boatyard with haul out facilities right on Palm Avenue- a minor miracle in this day and age. On the south side of Palm Avenue is the other working-class business a boat storage and sales facility owned by along time Key West family. They repair boats (and did a nice job of re-powering my skiff a couple of years ago):
And directly due south of the bight lies the Police Station, coyly tucked away behind the mangroves. I get a nice view of the marina from our dispatch windows, especially during hurricanes when the winds reduce Garrison Bight to horizontal white spume:
And finally to the north there lies that mysterious half hidden street, the only one of two in the city that offers back yard dockage to its residents. Its called Hilton Haven and it is the north east arm of garrison Bight, the civilian half opposite the Fly Navy Building.
And then the nitty-gritty, the docks themselves at the center of this geographical tour of the waters. The houseboats are frequently for sale, indeed I saw one, a thousand square footer claiming to be an original from Houseboat Row on South Roosevelt for sale for two hundred thousand dollars- described as affordable Keys living! Cramped Keys living if you like!








I suppose there is romance in life afloat, though after many years of doing it myself I'm happy enough to be living ashore. What I don't miss is marina living, and perhaps one needs to do it to be convinced of it. Living in a marina is like living in a cramped trailer park with the chance of drowning to paraphrase Doctor Johnson. Some people wouldn't live any other way. Of course living on a boat while traveling can be splendid, but to quote Admiral Nelson "Men and Ships rot in port," and Garrison Bight seems to see more than its share of rotting. Not forgetting that boaters themselves produce waste that needs to be kept out of the waters these days. There is a specially equipped pumping boat for the task that lives in the marina cheek by jowl as it were with its clients. The boat also serves the boats at anchor outside the marina:
I used to pay fifteen dollars a week to get my boat pumped in Sunset Marina! Ah, living in paradise... To that end I like looking at the boats parked nearer North Roosevelt Boulevard, the main drag into town which is noisy as hell but from the roadway one gets to see the visiting boats, the vessels that tend to be more on the move, the smaller boats. Not all of them leave their slips but they look more like they could:
Back on shore the parking lots, ample though they may be are choked with winter time drivers who will soon be heading back north, presumably leaving their boats behind to the tender mercies of storm season. This being Key West alternatives in transportation are catered to when it comes to parking areas:
Motorized and not:
Alternative living in a mild climate, and this is by no means the most alternative. Monroe County is now starting to eye liveaboards on their boats in Boca Chica Channel, between the Navy Base and Stock Island. That's where the free spirits are congregating that don't want to live within the confines of a marina. Monroe County is viewing the free anchorage with a jaundiced eye complaining of sunken wrecks, debris and anarchy afloat. Meanwhile in the Bight marina living is at least still possible for some in the heart of the city of Key West.
Some people call this Houseboat Row, because this is where the houseboats of South Roosevelt Boulevard washed up, but to me its just part of Garrison Bight Marina. The City of Key West owns two marina properties, one is Key West Bight, near Schooner Wharf and the other is Garrison Bight in the middle of the island, with a narrow opening to the Gulf of Mexico to the north. (A bight in nautical lingo is an indentation in a coastline, or a loop in a length of rope).
Garrison Bight is a well protected marina when the weather turns rough, and because it's city owned the dock rates are lower by a few hundred dollars month than those of the private marinas downtown or on Stock Island. However in a town like Key West where a one bedroom apartment can cost a thousand dollars month, a marina slip at less than $800 a month can seem like a bargain. But that's not all that goes on at Garrison Bight, people don't just live there:


Sport fishing is a big deal in the Keys, obviously, and there's a whole line of boats parked at charter boat row waiting for clumps of customers to show up for a day on the water. Humans aren't the only anglers, and hopefuls come in all shapes:
For a lot of people the dream job is running a charter fishing boat. Its a dream everyone should fulfill, because speaking as a former Captain myself, the life has a bunch of drawbacks. It confirmed my opinion that the lucky man is the one who keeps his hobbies and his jobs separate. I enjoy writing my blog a lot more because I do it for fun, not a living. That was written as a former journalist, not a former boat captain. But youth is a great time to be sorting your equipment on your charter boat:
But these are modern times so we have abandoned the old ways and no longer use roofs to collect rainwater, instead we suck water out of the ground and pump it 150 miles to our faucets with predictable results, not enough to go around:
However this is the land of abundance so we still get to use plenty of it! It'll be a bad day in the Keys when boaters can't keep their vessels clean. Garrison Bight is a strangely shaped marina bisected by Palm Avenue and a low bridge, the bridge prevents sailboats getting into the inner sanctum but its a main artery out of Old Town and sees lots of use, especially in the evening rush hour:
The top of the bridge, for all that its probably only twenty feet above the water gives a nice view to the pedestrian at the top. To the northwest the landmark Fly Navy building, properly known as the Bachelor Officers Quarters (or BOQ) a delightfully old fashioned 1950's style of architecture when viewed from the inside:
To the left the cluster of buildings is the last boatyard in Key West, Spencer's, still a working boatyard with haul out facilities right on Palm Avenue- a minor miracle in this day and age. On the south side of Palm Avenue is the other working-class business a boat storage and sales facility owned by along time Key West family. They repair boats (and did a nice job of re-powering my skiff a couple of years ago):
And directly due south of the bight lies the Police Station, coyly tucked away behind the mangroves. I get a nice view of the marina from our dispatch windows, especially during hurricanes when the winds reduce Garrison Bight to horizontal white spume:
And finally to the north there lies that mysterious half hidden street, the only one of two in the city that offers back yard dockage to its residents. Its called Hilton Haven and it is the north east arm of garrison Bight, the civilian half opposite the Fly Navy Building.
And then the nitty-gritty, the docks themselves at the center of this geographical tour of the waters. The houseboats are frequently for sale, indeed I saw one, a thousand square footer claiming to be an original from Houseboat Row on South Roosevelt for sale for two hundred thousand dollars- described as affordable Keys living! Cramped Keys living if you like!








I suppose there is romance in life afloat, though after many years of doing it myself I'm happy enough to be living ashore. What I don't miss is marina living, and perhaps one needs to do it to be convinced of it. Living in a marina is like living in a cramped trailer park with the chance of drowning to paraphrase Doctor Johnson. Some people wouldn't live any other way. Of course living on a boat while traveling can be splendid, but to quote Admiral Nelson "Men and Ships rot in port," and Garrison Bight seems to see more than its share of rotting. Not forgetting that boaters themselves produce waste that needs to be kept out of the waters these days. There is a specially equipped pumping boat for the task that lives in the marina cheek by jowl as it were with its clients. The boat also serves the boats at anchor outside the marina:
I used to pay fifteen dollars a week to get my boat pumped in Sunset Marina! Ah, living in paradise... To that end I like looking at the boats parked nearer North Roosevelt Boulevard, the main drag into town which is noisy as hell but from the roadway one gets to see the visiting boats, the vessels that tend to be more on the move, the smaller boats. Not all of them leave their slips but they look more like they could:
Back on shore the parking lots, ample though they may be are choked with winter time drivers who will soon be heading back north, presumably leaving their boats behind to the tender mercies of storm season. This being Key West alternatives in transportation are catered to when it comes to parking areas:
Motorized and not:
Alternative living in a mild climate, and this is by no means the most alternative. Monroe County is now starting to eye liveaboards on their boats in Boca Chica Channel, between the Navy Base and Stock Island. That's where the free spirits are congregating that don't want to live within the confines of a marina. Monroe County is viewing the free anchorage with a jaundiced eye complaining of sunken wrecks, debris and anarchy afloat. Meanwhile in the Bight marina living is at least still possible for some in the heart of the city of Key West.Friday, March 25, 2011
Boca Chica Night
The fullest of full moons had barely passed and I knew where I had to go for my lunch break earlier this week when I was still at work and not yet feeling ill.
The Bonneville has 49,500 miles on the speedometer and is running just like a perfectly wound clock. I have been greatly enjoying riding it back and forth to work. In summer, which will soon be upon us, when the rains come and temperatures rise, Boca Chica Beach will be mosquito and sand flea heaven. I have been to the beach unprotected by chemistry and have literally torn at my skin in pain. Luckily I don't get welts and mosquito bites fade in a hurry on my skin, a matter of ten minutes and the bite fades from notice, but this place is gnarly when the bugs are out.
To ride down the winding road from Big Coppitt through a 75 degree night was an absolute pleasure and to listen to the silence was divine once the engine was turned off and the headlight dimmed. I stood and heard nothing. The ocean was still, the trees weren't moving and in the distance all I could see was the faint outline of a van parked illegally for the night at the beach. This makes an excellent place to camp but usually Sheriff's deputies patrol here regularly. The van occupant got lucky.
This is the place to bring Cheyenne and soon the snowbirds and their dogs will be gone and before it gets too hot Cheyenne and I will make a couple of forays out here, but it's a long way, 20 miles, from my home and rather too far to visit casually just for a dog walk, so we don't come as often as we might. Besides it is well known and thus well populated in winter. Not at 2 in the morning though!
It is also far enough from work that I had but fifteen minutes to play with my camera, check out the incredible night time scenery before putting my helmet back on and buggering off back to work.
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