Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Southard Street

They call this place the Conch Republic, a cheerful self deprecating place but really it could be called the Green Republic for it's walking/biking friendly size and the number and size of it's trees.However the Green Republic, formerly on Southard at Bahama Streets is gone.There was an eco-restaurant thing going on for a while there in the Southard and Fleming corridor with the venerable Cafe holding it's own splendidly then joined by the Help Yourself venture now apparently firmly established at Fleming and Margaret. Then Green Republic appeared and now has disappeared. The notice in their window said "Corporate" had made a decision and thus I learned this place I always meant to try but never got around to, was a chain store.They come, they go and perhaps with a photo or two I could have done a better job of recording their passage. The underlying structure of key West seems to remain fixed but at the surface where new arrivals show up in town all starry eyed and dreamy the chances of the Keys accepting and making them welcome seem completely arbitrary.Some businesses come and stay, and if you want an expensive lap dance I have no doubt Living Dolls can provide just the blond blue eyed thing from Latvia or Lithuania or Ukraine or some other not-quite-First-World-economy but across the street organic sandwiches cannot hold their own against corporate need. I'd take the sandwich, even though I have never yet patronized the Living Doll emporium either and have no direct knowledge of it.My decks at home are not near so picturesque as the one shown above but I like to think I spend more time observing the salt ponds west of my home of an evening than I have ever seen anyone sitting on this lovely balcony observing the comings and goings below. That other fact of Key West life is that for many people it takes not two but three jobs to maintain a life, which leaves precious little time for playing Juliet upstairs.


A small apartment, with balcony, a couple of jobs neither of which is too onerous and a pink bicycle with basket. Life in Key West would be complete.

Appelrouth Lane

The Florida Keys Mosquito Control District has announced with utter gravity that rainy season is upon us and we must beware the squadrons of mossies about to descend on us with the imminent arrival of copious amounts of rain.There are public discussions of the dangers of dengue fever a mosquito borne illness that makes a lot of noise and gives a few dozen well nourished First World residents a brief fever. In the Third World where food is scarce and public health departments even scarcer dengue kills hundreds.I look skyward and see nothing resembling a proper soaking summer thunderstorm. I chose to walk Appelrouth Lane, the alley across the from Strand on Duval Street, as much for the shade as anything else. I very much enjoy perusing The Streets of Key West by J Wills Burke (a pseudonym apparently) and in the book he mentions Appelrouth was renamed from the rather bland Smith Lane in 1981, not so very long ago.The picture above is not pilfered from a Spanish Tour Book. It is the autumnal appearance of parched trees dropping their leaves into the courtyard in back of the San Carlos Theater (the former and possibly future Cuban Consulate, land claimed by Cuba but retained by the exile community of South Florida). The picture below is of a building that went through a rather curious recent past. It became briefly a night club called Zu which, to much local whispering, encouraged people to come and watch others having sex. If you had any doubt we are over stimulated as a species ask yourself what life would be like without advertising where every single object of desire or utility is presented as a sexual enhancement. I believe someone somewhere hoped to make a lot of money from this club. It would be too much to hope to make similar sums from manufacturing widgets that might actually be useful for the promotion of human happiness.Billy Appelrouth was a store owner who sold useful things on Duval Street in what was known I think as a dry good store. He lived well and died a respected member of the community and is buried in the Jewish Cemetery in the middle of the city. Today he would have been steam rollered into oblivion by Wal Mart, or bought out by Zu, God help us. The Strand Cinema was a staple of early 20th century social life but had deteriorated by the time I first came to Key West but for most of the 20th century the Carbonell family brought reels of the outside world to Key West here. It soldiered on as a night club and then faded by way of Ripley's'. That it has become a chain pharmacy is just the way of our world. Sometimes change isn't completely awful, sometimes it is for the better, but change is happening all the time.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

A Pause

I keep hearing stories of financial distress and resulting stress but we live in a world where grief and anxiety is masked by a public face of ease and optimism so when I see my dog move with determination under a bush, out of the sun and announce in no uncertain terms it's time for a break I feel that we would all do better if we could be so honest.I was backing into a spot at the bank yesterday, making sure Cheyenne would be in the shade while I dealt with a blemish - a fee not supposed to be charged and rescinded with many apologies which was odd in itself. How often does a bank manager say "sorry"? As I turned in the lot a large SUV came rushing headlong in behind me. I froze. He stopped, almost doing hat motorcyclists call a "stoppie" on his front tires. I backed rapidly into the spot and managed to make a loud "clunk" as my rear bumper hit a log. The manager was walking across the lot as I pulled off my MR Bean imitation.
"Car okay?" he asked as we walked in together. Of course modern plastic bumper actually do absorb bumps so all was well with the car. The other driver appeared to be rushing to make a payment on something, chasing a deadline, haring in to the bank a look of frantic determination on her face. I wondered what the deadline was and I hoped it all worked out but I get the feeling fewer and fewer of us will get the chance in the future to take a break with Cheyenne and just sit under a bush for a while out of the sun. I wonder what it means to be middle class anymore. Simply to be employed is perhaps enough. Time off? Retirement? Health care? Dream on.

Dogs Of Snipe Key

Somewhere in Chuck's album there is a picture of me sitting contentedly in a canvas chair on the beach at Snipe Key, and standing in front of me looking important is Zuzu (or Tootie, I can't tell the Viszlas apart).It was a hot Saturday morning which meant swimming and water exploration for Chuck and Wayne's rescued Hungarian hunters. This is a far cry from the puppy mill where they were kept in cages as breeders.The water is quite warm and the sun is positively hot though I am ashamed to admit it, but I must: I found the steady south east breeze quite chilly on my wet skin when I waded out to deep water to swim. The dogs found the heat quite sufficient and they were delighted after some running and swimming and exploring to sit in the shade next to us.

Cheyenne was never taught to swim by the family that used to own her (and keep her on a chain, dreadful people). She waded and got wet and then plunked herself in the sand after playing for a while with the others.We spent some time on the beach and off, wading swimming and talking and watching the dogs run back and forth but in the fullness of time we waded back out to the anchored boat and lifted the dogs on board. My 85 pound puppy was left to me to lift and she submitted to the indignity with great fortitude, while I grunted and heaved to get her waving limbs into the boat above my head. Happily we failed to take any pictures of that operation as no one of us came out looking very dignified. It was a 20 minute ride home and Cheyenne took full advantage sprawling under the open hatch of the cabin to enjoy the flow of cool air, forcing Tootie and Zuzu to huddle as best they could.

Bahama Street Ghosts

The word is this old theater is haunted.Which is why, I am told, you won't find the local residentially challenged sleeping in the covered entrance. Which is true as far as I have observed but I am a terrible witness to these things because I don't believe in the supernatural. Yes, I know, I'm a bore but there it is.There have been plans mooted for a while to renovate the building but so far nothing has come of it. The ghost seen in the window was me large as life and entirely human. The sketch was quite brilliant though inanimate.This is a busy corner in the protoplasmic ether because across Bahama Street is another noted haunted spot in back of the ever lovely St Paul's Cathedral. Behind the sign there lurks a lonely sea captain if I recall correctly and knock me down with a feather if I don't know someone who's seen him!My colleague Kristi has joined a group of friends who go ghost hunting from time to time and she got a picture of a shadowy sea captain looking dude out here one night almost a year ago under the trees.Digital photography seems like it would be a useful tool to show up people's auras and the unhappy dead who they say lurk in our midst and Kristi's pictures of human shapes lurking like shadows are quite creepy. I know of one man who says he can see dead people and he's apparently seen them around here, but someone of my sceptical mien does not encourage confidences in this field and i have never spoken direclty with him of what he sees. So I leave the supernatural to those that believe but whether or not you do I highly recommend a ghost tour, it is entirely entertaining and weaves key West History into the storytelling which I really like even though the ghosts leave me unconvinced.




http://www.hauntedtours.com/

Road Closures

Riding around town I keep seeing torn up streets and diversion signs redirecting my Bonneville.In a town as small as Key West with post winter season traffic patterns it's no great hardship to be diverted but it surprises me how much money the city has to spend of roadworks. Actually I also find it heartening because I've read plenty about deferred roan maintenance in other parts of our blighted nation. Not here, things look surprisingly good.In the photo above we see a large strip of black asphalt showing more city paving recently completed. We have elections coming up in Key West because the city has it's own election schedule and this year three districts, 2,4, and 5 are open and Barry Gibson wants to quit to run for the county office running elections. Mayor Cates ran in 2009 saying he wanted only one term but now he wants to get the new city hall built to his specifications so he's in for a second term.In the photo above we see the recently completed sidewalks on Flagler Avenue which caused a lot of people to groan as they coped with the change. I didn't see it as a big deal but I guess I was missing something as I find the cut outs easy to navigate (I ride sober which must help!). I did an essay on this hot topic: http://conchscooter.blogspot.com/2010/03/flagler-reconstruction.html As we watch the campaigns ramp up this summer I want to see what the discussion is about the city's budget. The temporary city hall at Habana Plaza (above) is a big topic because it will have to be relocated somewhere in the city, though not every one agrees even on that. But the city budget doesn't seem as fraught as budgets are for most governments in these United States these days. What, I ask myself will have to be cut in 2012 to keep the city budget balanced? Street repairs? Jobs? The way the candidates are talking so far the budget seems to be just peachy. Long may it stay that way in this amazingly resilient tourist economy.