Thursday, January 14, 2016

Better Living Through Chemistry

I decided to ignore the rain hammering the roof when I woke up yesterday. I made tea and stared out at the canal, all stifled by rain drops. Cheyenne thought the 65 degree morning was splendid and after breakfast she stretched out on the deck keeping an eye on the weather while I worked on some annoying 911buddy stuff. Apple is having fits approving the app so we have to work to appease the Gnomes of Cupertino. Then the rain stopped.

Cheyenne got up and tottered out to the head of the stairs which freaked me out as I had forgotten to put the gate back in place. Last week I found her at the bottom of the stairs resting comfortably, oblivious to the nosebleed from one nostril. That was the only visible sign she had slipped on her weak hind legs and taken a tumble. Our mobile vet Edie Clark came by and pronounced her fit and suggested a pill that "has worked miracles for some elderly dogs." With our recent streak of bad luck I doubted it would do much but the alternative was pain and death and gloom and tears. I needn't have worried.

Cheyenne swaggered down the stairs with me hovering like an anxious fairy godmother and then she stood by the car door. The message was obvious: my walking dog was back. The only thing was we aren't supposed to over exert our nearly 15 year old Labrador. Which is a bit difficult to measure. I got over exerted dealing with absolutely appalling traffic cluttering up the Overseas Highway. I got stuck at the light in Big Pine and snagged a picture of some prize turnip blocking the road while trying to force his way into the turn lane. He could have gone forward me turned around but no, winter's discontent is thoughtlessness.

No one got rear ended (while I was around) so that was very good but accidents are piling up and the death board driving out of Key West can't keep up with the fatalities. People are dropping everywhere along the highway as too many people cram these tiny islands. Everyone is bitching about it and let me tell you I joined the chorus as I confidently passed St Peter's church and expected the highway to open up, but I was wrong. The line of cars heading into Big Pine and ultimately Key West stretched out of sight, inching south bound. At three o'clock on a Wednesday afternoon. Too much, so I turned onto beach road and took a long cut back road back to Big Pine. I saved no time but I enjoyed driving around a bit as did Cheyenne who also hot a walk, a snooze in some grass and Aldo a little wet with some light rain.

I stopped at Morita's to pick up dinner as my wife has been feeling a bit run down, and was glad I had but a hundred yard drive to Spanish Main and home. Traffic is that bad, every day. Cheyenne refused the offer of a lift and stumped back up the stairs, much to my amazement. Then she took up her favorite position during cool winter days.

I know 65 degrees and rain isn't that cold but combined with endless gray skies and winter winds day after sodding day it gets a bit much. We split dinner and I continued to drink tea with my half portion of an eight dollar plate of bisteca milanesa rice beans and yuca, and some crispy soft well flavored yuca it was too. We feel lucky Morita's is just around the corner for take out in this stretch of the Overseas Highway. Friday is the wife's birthday and we are having Italian with friends at the other new best joint, Bella Luna. That should be an interesting follow up.

It's funny but sometimes I think it wouldn't be do bad if it were cold from time to time, but when I faced the tiles in the shower yesterday morning and later I got my arms wet while cleaning the Bonneville all I could think was how much I love summers in the Keys with not too many people and a lot more sunshine. Can't wait. And hopefully the Gnomes of Apple will be in our rear view mirrors long before then.

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Cool, Gray and Slow

I had to go into town yesterday and I woke up to the unmistakable sound of water hitting the roof and slashing the palm fronds outside the house. It was a cool crisp day and Cheyenne had made the choice to ignore the open doors and lay on her bed snoozing full of breakfast and unwilling to get up. I checked the weather map and it looked like the rain clouds were breaking up. I pulled on my Frogg Toggs and set off on two wheels. The air was cool, the skies were gray and the traffic was slow. Great, but I was snug and enjoying my ride.
Triumph Bonneville, Overseas Highway
Much has been made on Facebook about the nastiness of 65 degree days combined with cold north winds and rain and it's true I did hesitate a bit before plunging into the shower especially as my feet have been cold for days but really its not hat bad. Maybe I am hardening up but I haven't even hunted up my woolen watch cap (though I have thought about it). This weather is all right, it's a change and it makes me feel like I am part of the great eastern freeze gripping the states Up North: 
And yes, I know some people enjoy the snow and the transformation of the countryside but all I can think is that some people leave their pets outside which thought makes me ill, and then too riding is impossible. I did ride to school when I was young and living an hour from a technical school I was enrolled in. I rode through the outskirts of London in snow because I preferred my motorcycle to train travel but in my defense I was 21 and stupid. But I managed without falling off and quite enjoy the daily adventure of truly foul weather, and darkness on the ride home.
Triumph Bonneville, Overseas Highway
Gray skies, uniformly cloud covered, and a break in the rain convinced me to stop to let slow traffic pull ahead and I wandered around for a bit around Mile Marker 13, enjoying the views and the flat waters. I had expected some white caps on the water but there was none to be seen. 
Triumph Bonneville, Overseas Highway
The Bonneville is running nicely even though I have found a rather odd quirk in the starting procedure where the bike starts easily without a choke and just wants a little applied after it starts running. I was flooding the poor bike by pulling the choke out as one would normally and I was thinking maybe it needed new spark plugs. Nope, it starts fine and runs fine just as it is. I appreciate the ease of use and light handling of the Bonneville more and more especially after riding the 800 pound Indian Chief. 
Florida Winter Sunshine
I am looking forward to sunshine but the forecast looks rather gloomy so I fear I may be a bit gloomy myself into next week. That and struggling to get Apple to approve 911buddy which is a profound annoyance as our first submission got one list of changes they demanded and I am sure more adjustments will be required as the process moves forward at a  glacial pace. The whole process is Kafkaesque - the government has nothing on the faceless bureaucrats of Apple headquarters in Cupertino.

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

New Town Tour

Duck Avenue looking wets toward the setting sun, except there are no tourists here. They are all crowding Mallory Square, the beaches, odd roof tops and more familiar places. 
Duck Avenue, Key West
New Town is where the business of key West carries on, shopping, homes with yards hold workers who have a grip albeit tenuous on homes not desired by snowbirds who just love Key West. These streets are wide and straight and not at all historic.
New Town, Key West
Homeless dudes hang here with their bicycles and their bundles just like they do in Old Town. Some aspects of Key West don't change no matter the neighborhood.
Riviera Drive, Key West
New affordable housing is popping up here at Flagler and Eleventh. Half million dollar homes on stilts complete with parking, air conditioning, they are waterproof structures with windows that close. Features you cannot count on when you buy a million dollar cottage where the writers used to live when Key West was bohemian. 
New Construction, Flagler Avenue
Some people decided that stilts were a good idea after Hurricane Wilma flooded a third of the entire city. I've heard stilt homes derided in New Orleans as "olives on toothpicks." But dry in a flood.
New Town, Key West
Yes, not fashionable but practical if you don't like a car commute, New Town is within cycling distance of what you need in Key West.

Monday, January 11, 2016

The Meadows

It's been too long since I went for a look at one of my favorite neighborhoods in Key West. They call it "The Meadows" because that was what it was before they built over the pasture. The neighborhood lies between Eisenhower Drive, Palm Avenue, White Street and Truman Avenue. Pick the 1200 block of Petronia as your Google Map starting point and you'll be in the middle of it.
The Meadows, Key West
The Moose Lodge above is about the only non-residential building- that and a couple of churches ironically enough, that lie within the neighborhood. Below I took a picture of Peary Court, the former Navy housing now being rented to civilians for $2600 a month I am told, safe behind the fencing. Thus not exactly part of The Meadows neighborhood.
Peary Court, Key West
The marina and Yamaha dealership at Garrison Bight backs up onto Eisenhower Drive:
Eisenhower Drive, Key West
Angela Street, typical of the quiet narrow streets around here, full of greenery and dog walkers:
The Meadows, Key West
 This is one of the largely unknown, unmarked lanes in Key West. It's actually Gonzalez Lane and its most prominent feature is the row of storage lockers:
The Meadows, Key West
The speed limit is one I am happy to comply with as this is a very residential area without sidewalks:
The Meadows, Key West
 Sunset caught on the trunks:
The Meadows, Key West
 Key West in winter, always green always summer:
Vespa ET4 150
Albury Street is named after a prominent local family with ancestral roots in the Bahamas, where Albury is a well known  boat building name in the Abaco Islands. Key West has connections to the Bahamas as much as to Cuba. 
The Meadows, Key West
No convenience stores, few tourists, peace and quiet as much as you can hope for in this busy town.

Sunday, January 10, 2016

Streets Of Key West

I desperately miss the simple pleasure of walking Key West, at random and taking pictures. I will get back to it because I could use the exercise and because I enjoy it. For now I have to dig in the archives, these pictures from June 2013. Might as well be two decades ago, not just two years (and a few months!).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key West Street Scenes

I started this blog in June 2007 as an experiment. Six years later I have almost 3200 essays logged here, almost all of them photo essays with between one and two dozen pictures. I have avoided formatting anything so I could avoid having to come up with blue pictures for Monday or wooden pictures for Friday or any such limitation. I just do what I feel like doing and throw in my opinions because this is after all my diary of my life in the Lower Keys.
I have previously explained the reason why I started this blog, partly in disgust at the food fights and name calling so popular on open Internet fora and partly too because when I started exploring the Internet looking for blogs that might illustrate places of interest to me, so few appeared. I figured why not try to show Key West as it is; or at least how I see it.
Above we have Telegraph Lane which runs behind Rick's Bar on Duval Street a minor alley beautifully paved not leas because it serves the business of a Very Important Person. There are quite a few Key West streets that could use some repaving, but so far no luck for them. The gate shown below was demolished by a motorist so drove into at full speed I believe down Caroline Street and across the stop sign at Whitehead. As I recall the gate won, but even so it is taking an age to fix.
Key West streets are unique to Florida, St Augustine comes close but nowhere else has retained the intimacy and history of this tourist town even with its drinking problem.
Cheyenne loves walking anywhere in town, a place filled with vitality and alluring scents even at ankle height or lower. She gets to hydrate as she goes thanks to the myriad water bowls littering the sidewalks all over the place. Some are fancy like this one others aren't, but she isn't picky when it's eighty degrees and humid.
I prefer Duval Street early in the morning when people are few and crowds aren't elbowing me and my dog off the sidewalk. In the picture below it looms lie it just rained. It hadn't, they just like to use fresh water to clean the city. We are told the 75,000 permanent residents of the Keys and their associated businesses have no perceptible impact on the flow of potable water out of the Soith Florida aquifer. Just as well as the millions of mainland residents are working hard to dry it all up.
I love walking the streets of Key West and it's an activity highly recommended to visitors. With reason.
Every street, Greene Street below, is a center of life and activity, human or of plant life. Full of color.
Greene Street is named for Pardon Greene one of the four Anglo purchasers of the island from the original Spanish owner. Juan Salas got the island as a land grant from the Spanish king and did nothing with it, except to sell it (twice) to eager Americans. Below we see the city public works department cleaning Duval for another day of riotous living and another night of riotous drinking.
Mallory Square as can only be seen by the early bird visitor. Stephen Mallory was US Secretary of the Navy who subsequently joined the Confederate cabinet of Jefferson Davis. Which act did not convince anyone to change the name of the principal trading area of Key West harbor.
It was an historic day for me, being the first time I ever drove my car onto Mallory Square and parked there. At four dollars an hour I expect it it will also be the last time. Paradise don't come cheap.

Saturday, January 9, 2016

Farewell Eric Biskup 1966-2016

Eric Biskup became a mentor for me when I started learning to dispatch police at the Key West Police Department. He sat me down and explained that being wordy is bad, being on point is good and keeping track of what everyone is doing is critical. There was lots more advice from a veteran police officer but he got me going that night basically telling the wordy one to keep it short. Talking on the radio wasn't a problem for me, a former radio reporter, but figuring out the nuances of police work and police radio work was all new. And over those first few months in the summer of 2004, between hurricanes, he helped me learn to figure it out. One night I came to work and he showed me the best use for a police baton, moving a snake I had stumbled across out of the police station lobby.
Biskup was, as they used to say sui generis his own man and they broke the mold after they made him. 
And as if to prove the point, who better to tell that story than Dennis Reeves Cooper who wrote a story in the Blue Paper in 2009 about a ride he took with Eric Biskup. Biskup has been involved in several high profile stories involving the department over the many years and Reeves Cooper was implacable in his criticism of Key West PD. Until he rode along with Biskup and wrote it up in Key West The News (KWTN) his biweekly broadsheet. Here is an excerpt :
If you are a regular reader of KWTN,
you know that we have often editorially asked this
question: “We live in a small town. Why do we have
some police officers who seem to want to arrest everybody?
Except for obvious exceptions, why can’t
our cops approach most situations with the attitude
of trying NOT to arrest people?
Well, imagine my surprise when, as I watched Officer Biskup work, I heard
him saying to people more
than once, something like this:
“Okay, ladies and gentlemen,
how can we solve this problem
without anybody going
to jail?!”

Eric Biskup, KWPD
This letter of commendation was published on the city website:



I HAD MY STORE BROKE INTO A COUPLE DAYS AGO- OFFICER ERIC BISKUP CAUGHT THE THIEF THAT GOT TO THE REGISTER ALREADY AND STOLE SOME MONEY ARRESTED HIM AND WAS IN CONTROL ON THE WHOLE SCENE BY HIMSELF, HE WAS VERY PROFESSIONAL AND ALSO VERY KIND AT THE SAME TIME TOOK HIM IN THE COP CAR AND PREVENTED OTHER BURGLARIES THE SAME NIGHT BECAUSE HE HAD A BAG FILLED WITH TOOLS PLANNING TO HAVE A LONG NIGHT.

ANY WAY I WANT TO THANK HIM FROM MY BOTTOM OF MY HEART AND MENTION THAT IS VERY GOOD TO HAVE SUCH COPS IN THE FORCE.
Eric Biskup, Key West
To me Eric embodied the qualities that all of us hope to see in a community based officer. He had an interest in his town and as the reporter discovered, a desire to solve conflict without resorting to hand cuffs. Unhappily we live in a litigious and frequently violent society and the police are caught in the middle of a struggle to maintain order and civil liberties in a country where allegiance to either seems to vacillate day to day and depending on the political mood.
Eric was a cop and through his illness he referred to himself in the present tense as a cop but he was also a human being. He rode a  Harley and he had a tortured relationship with an old Volksswagen Bug which he showed off at the Southernmost Car Club when I passed by in 2010:
Eric Biskup, Key West
He was a presence around town and in a lot of lives, and he enjoyed the perks of living in a small town and being appreciated. I was glad to help him figure out how to see London one year and he sat up in dispatch with me as I went over things to see and places to go and on that trip he made a connection with the Met, the London Police, which spread his net wider in the international bond between cops. And I dare say enriched his life as they compared notes on how it's done.
Sgt Eric Biskup, Key West Police
Reeves Cooper's article had a nice few touches to it so rather than me trying to say why Eric was, in the words of former Captain Scott Smith "the coolest cat I know," let his erstwhile nemesis in print tell the whole story of what it was like to work with the coolest cop on the beat:

For the past several weeks, I have been participating
in the Key West Police Department’s (KWPD)
Citizen Police Academy. No, I’m not making this up.
In essence, this is an enhanced orientation program—
eight two-hour evening sessions with presentations
by representatives from the various departments
within the KWPD.
This past week, we saw a taser demonstration
and we got to see one of the department’s two police
dogs in action. Next week, we are scheduled to tour
the jail and, the week after that, we are scheduled to
meet the police horses.
This is not a VIP program. Classes are scheduled
a couple of times a year and anybody can sign
up to attend. Officer Steve Torrence coordinates the
program. He said this week that the dates for the next
academy have not been set yet, but if you want to get
information or express interest in attending, his phone
number is 809-1007. His email address is storrenc@keywestcity.com.
Those who participate in this program also
have the opportunity to schedule a ride-along with
a cop. We were encouraged to do this at night. “It’s
a completely different world out there in the middle
of the night,” we were told.
When I signed up for my ride-along, I told them
that I wanted to ride with an experienced officer. Well,
you know what they say— be careful what you wish
for, you just might get it. When Officer Eric Biskup
found out that I was on the ride-along list, I’m told
that he called Steve Torrence and asked that I be assigned
to him.
If you’re a longtime reader of Key West The
Newspaper, you may recall that Biskup has been
“featured” here at least a couple of times. Back in July
2001, a family visiting from Sarasota were strolling
down Duval Street after dinner. A drunk standing in front of one of the bars said something off-color to
one of the women in the group. That confrontation
escalated into a full-blown street brawl.
Biskup was one of six cops who responded to
the scene. In the process of breaking up the fight,
Biskup was accused of beating up one of the family
members— who later sued the city and was awarded
$50,000.
Biskup was also the cop that arrested restaurateur
Bob Mongelli a couple of months ago after Mongelli
called the cops to deal with situation at a rental appartment
he owned. That court case is pending.
Well, I did go on a ride-along with Officer Biskup
and, since you are reading my report here, it is obvious
that he did not “disappear” me.
Last Saturday, I met with Biskup at the police
station for the 6 p.m. briefing. And for the next 11
hours, we were almost always busy responding to
911 calls. Right up front, he told me, “When you ride
with me, you’re out of the car when I’m out of the
car— unless somebody starts shooting at us. But I
do have an extra Kevlar vest in the trunk of the car if
you need it,” he added.
Biskup, 43, has been a cop for 16 years, most
of that time in Key West— although he started out
with a small department upstate. He also served a
short stint with the new Orleans Police Department
and was a deputy sheriff in Washington state. He is
originally from Chicago.
He is a street cop— and at 5’10,” 235 pounds,
with a shaved head, he looks the part.
Again, if you are a regular reader of KWTN,
you know that we have often editorially asked this
question: “We live in a small town. Why do we have
some police officers who seem to want to arrest everybody?
Except for obvious exceptions, why can’t
our cops approach most situations with the attitude
of trying NOT to arrest people?
Well, imagine my surprise when, as I watched Officer Biskup work, I heard
him saying to people more
than once, something like this:
“Okay, ladies and gentlemen,
how can we solve this problem
without anybody going
to jail?!”
Granted, in some of the
situations during the course of
the night, he had to sometimes
say that louder than at other
times or, maybe, even repeat
it. But at the end of the night,
he had not made even a single
arrest!
Of course, I had to wonder
if he was just putting on a
show because I was with him.
But, since then, I have had an
opportunity to ask other cops,
including the chief of police,
about Biskup’s style. They told
me that is the way he enforces
the law.
“Seasoned officers understand
that arrest is not always
necessary or prudent for
many reasons, including officer
safety,” said Chief of Police
Donie Lee. “That is certainly
my philosophy.”
Biskup’s beat last Saturday
night was Duval Street and
the surrounding area. Early
in the evening, we took a ride
down Duval. It appeared that
most of the people on the street
were out for dinner. Everybody
seemed happy. I didn’t see any
falling-down drunks.
But that was to change
over the next few hours, after
what Officer Biskup called the
“shift change,” referring to
the people on the street. Even
that early, however, Biskup
responded to a call that an
intoxicated woman had fallen
and busted her head open near
Mallory Square. We found
her sitting stoically on some
steps on Front Street, smoking
a cigarette, blood streaming
down her face. Biscup called
the paramedics, who treated
her injury and took her to the
hospital.
Later that night, Biskup
was called back to the same
area where a elderly homeless
man was reportedly having a
seizure. Biskup told me that the
old man was the “husband” of
the woman with the bleeding
face.
Later, on a routine walking
patrol of the same area,
Biskup rousted a homeless man
sleeping on the porch of the
Waterfront Playhouse. He had
gone to sleep with his trousers
down around his knees.
Earlier in the evening,
a call came in to check out a
domestic dispute at an apartment
on Whitehead Street.
A man was trying to kick his
partner out of the apartment
and the partner was refusing
to go. I noticed that after Officer
Biskup knocked on the
door, he stepped to the side. He
explained that, years ago, on a
routine call like this, somebody
inside responded to his knock
by firing a bullet through the
door.
During the call Saturday
night, the man’s partner did
agree to leave after Officer
Biskup explained the jail option
to him. Back in the car, Biskup
predicted that we would be
called back to the same address
again later in the evening. He
was right.
Still early in the evening,
Biskup responded to a
complaint from a Duval Street
store manager that a group of
rowdies were playing grabass
in front of his store, blocking the
way for customers who might
want to come in. When Biskup
confronted them, he initially
got some attitude from a couple
of the guys— until he explained
the jail option to them.
Biskup was right about
the “shift change.” Duval Street
is a whole new place in the wee
hours of the morning. During
this period, there were several
calls about people passed out
on the sidewalk.
About 3:30 a.m., we got
out of the car and Biskup
stationed himself, along with
some other officers on Duval
Street near Green. I asked about
what was going on because, if
anything, Duval seemed almost
deserted, compared to just an
hour or so earlier.
“Just wait a few minutes,”
he said.
Suddenly, Duval was
again jam-packed with people,
many of whom seemed to be
having some trouble walking.
It was 4 a.m.— and the bars
were closing.
Dennis Cooper
God speed Eric and may  flights of angels sing thee to they well earned rest.