Wednesday, May 13, 2009
The Pool
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Boca Chica Bay
Boca Chica Bay is a body of water bounded by Highway One to the north (with enough clearance to allow fishing skiffs to pass underneath) Stock Island to the west, and Boca Chica Naval Air Station to the east. To the south is a narrow channel which gives access to the open waters of the Straits of Florida. It is the perfect place to live on a boat and I am not alone in noticing this.
Over the years I have seen the number of boats anchoring in Boca Chica Bay increase by leaps and bounds. Living on a boat has always been a cheap way to hang out in Key West, and aside from the transient population of mostly winter visitors who stay for a few weeks or months at a time, there are any number of boats whose owners never move their water "craft."
The waters off Key West aren't the best possible place to anchor from a boater's perspective because even though they are closest to the downtown action they are exposed in any winds that don't have an easterly component to them. Winter north winds rake the harbor and pre-frontal west winds do the same. Holding isn't the best, as it's mostly thin sand over rock and the waters are part of the main channel which carries plenty of traffic to the Gulf of Mexico. All that compares unfavorably to the closed waters of boot Key in Marathon discussed here previously. And Boca Chica isn't too bad at all if you are looking for protected waters. I took these pictures in a steady southeasterly at 20 knots gusting 25:


The channel into Boca Chica is well marked, and splits just south of the old Peninsular Marine, where the right hand channel leads to the trim and inexpensive marina maintained at the Navy Base for military and ex-military at astonishingly cheap slip rents:
I find it ironic that on the water, as on land, the chaos of civilian life finds itself living cheek-by-jowl with the trim and orderly life of a neighboring military base. The chaos of Boca Chica liveaboards is generally a product of the fact that this is housing of the last resort, rent free, amenity free and pretty much unregulated. The fishing boats passing between the Gulf and the Straits zip through here, passing underneath the Highway, and overhead the Navy jets in training, circle on their way to and from imaginary aircraft carrier landings at the Base:
The issue as always for people living on the water is how to get ashore and in that respect Boca Chica ("small mouth" in Spanish) is very accommodating. Cars on the highway zipping past the Key Haven Shell gas station might be forgiven for not noticing the Key Have Boat Ramp that gives access to any trailered boat wanting to launch:
And people who want to launch their boats from here get to do so for free:
For those living on boats this is the main access point to shore side life, though many people land further up the highway in the mangroves alongside the road:
And despite the abundance of garbage cans provided as a service by the county the shoreline in the mangroves is filled with debris, as is the seawall itself, most delightfully:
The mangroves make for safe dockage for the variety of dinghies that the liveaboards use to get to shore; the trees carry out their natural function of acting as living fenders for the shoreline: 
Ashore the causeway is lined at night with parked cars and scooters and bicycles when the boaters come home from their day labors, and make no mistake this is largely a population of working people. Some use bicycles which make for a six mile pedal for someone working on Duval Street:
Others use motorbikes:
No, wait a minute, that one's mine! The ramp parking area does have lots of room:
So there you have it, how to live for free in (or almost in) Key West. 
I can only say that from my many years of living on a boat, in marinas and at anchor, the best way is to be underway. Admiral Nelson is famously quoted as saying: Men and ships rot in port! Look no further than the waters adjacent to Key West to see the truth of that dictum, even today.Monday, May 11, 2009
New Airport Terminal
Very spic and span it is too, and so it should be for a terminal that was supposed to cost $25 million and ended up costing Monroe County $40 million. The new terminal was supposed to be named for the McCoy family but the county commissioner so named was voted out of office in the last round of elections and there have been rumblings of discontent over his time in office, so the naming of the terminal has been delayed, perhaps terminally...On the approach to the airport the new terminal is now the departure building, up the ramp which collapsed during construction. That piece of the shoddy contract killed a Guatemalan worker Carlos Humberto Cifuentes Saenz and more than one caller to the Citizens Voice suggested the terminal be named for him. No luck on that one.
The new terminal is a massive expanse of cement with a splendid view of the control tower:
The upstairs parking lot, most convenient to the terminal is for employees whose vehicles sit in the roasting sun. I'd rather park in the shade downstairs while I was inside working. In the distance the East Martello Tower:
The employees at the airport I spoke to before the new terminal was built were looking forward to it as a relief from the cramped quarters in the musty old airport building. However for some people, the more intrepid travelers not afraid to go through security checks outdoors, the old building was rather more welcoming to the Conch Republic. It serves as the arrivals building:
And there is still room to sit outdoors to wait for transport:
The main parking area is underneath the terminal, more massive expanses of concrete:
Whence one takes the stairs, or rides the (currently) operational elevator to the sterile Anywhere USA departure area upstairs:
The $40 million dollar contract apparently didn't include signage or trash cans according to an article in the paper so the county had to pony up for those too, at the last minute as they only noticed when the place had been opened. One can only be delighted the former county administrator and his sidekicks on the commission are all history. The cost did include outdoor fans which rotate at public expense at all hours apparently:The iconic Conch Flyer bar and restaurant had to be moved from its crusty old location overlooking the runway and now it occupies a vast spacious area upstairs at the departure terminal. Not exactly the retreat it once was:
It's a nice clean terminal with solar filtering glass showing off that concrete acreage:
And travelers now get to walk through a tube impervious to weather to get to their planes, though they will still have to go outdoors to get on the plane itself:I got on the Bonneville and took a spin, up one side, down the other, a tip of the hat to the late Carlos Saenz as I went:
And at the bottom of the ramp a left turn leads to South Roosevelt and the Straits of Florida beyond it:
And ninety miles beyond that as we know so well, lies Cuba, all of a thirty minute flight from here.