Thursday, April 8, 2010

Vignettes XXXV

There are times when I think that taking pictures and organizing them in an on-line diary is an indulgence that should perhaps be put on the back burner. Then, the back burner suddenly imposes itself on me and I get vexed and frustrated that I have nowhere to put silly looking pictures like this one. Two chairs, on a roof, ready to enjoy an unconventional Key West sunset.My home Internet connection is restored and my camera has not been completely idle as I fretted, waiting for American Telephone and Telegraph to send me my replacement wireless router. The weekend intervened but they did indeed get it to me overnight, so even though our economy is going resolutely Third World, we aren't there yet. I am still a valued customer. And the best I can do with my restored connection is this:A view looking south from the upstairs at Louie's Backyard. I was at a fundraiser and managed (with my wife's unwitting help) to break a wineglass, that had no wine in it. The manager said I could have a replacement only if I promised to take proper care of it, hold it thus, and be a good boy. Fuck you, I wanted to say, but I was a good boy and hung my head in shame, silently promising I will never spend a dime in this shit hole, now or in the future. By me a drink on the back deck if you want but don't expect me to reciprocate. I am nothing if not good mannered and I did flush the toilet after I used it on my hurried way out. They never yell at me like that at El Siboney where my bill doesn't amount to the cost of a goat cheese sarnie at Louie's.On the never ending subject of tachometers Chuck Pefley told me recently that the Honda Ruckus scooter is cool, and even though they imported very few 250s, the 50cc model is frequently seen on the streets of Key West. Here is conclusive proof that this cool scooter does not come equipped with a tachometer, just like my plain jane Bonneville. I will have more to say on the subject of the imminent arrival of unofficial summer but this house in New Town made me feel cheerful the day before yesterday. I have had reason lately to feel not very cheerful at all.
This gumbo limbo is still growing in the Meadows and it still fills me with awe. Robin Hood could hide in it's huge leafy branches and ambush a dog walker passing below.I guess I have needed cheering up because this mailbox caught my eye:And this one is uncharacteristic in that it invites one inside. "Welcome" it said and I think Cheyenne was ready to take them at their word.I saw this Mel Brooks gate standing unattended by any fencing. I wanted to open it and walk through like I was in Blazing Saddles, except I didn't have a dime and couldn't pay the toll. My dimes currently are going to pay for all the crap in my life that has failed and needs to be replaced so I will be spending a lot more time with Nelly in the weeks to come:
Spring break is over for the most part and night dispatching has quieted down a fair bit, but things still do go bump in the night and police work never stops. Keith has been hitting the overtime pretty hard in a drive to pay off some extra bills of his own.We are still hiring in dispatch and as lucky as we are to have great jobs we are even luckier to still have access to overtime. It hits me every time I ready about the unemployment numbers as our fake economic recovery powers ahead.Key West, the small town, makes me laugh out loud from time to time as I walk Cheyenne around town. This personal note, parked for all to see in a New Town driveway, was one such moment:This I thought, was every bit as cool as a Honda Ruckus, and might be the way of the future. Note the orange cord supplying the energy re-charge on the right side.A cyclist exemplifies good eco-etiquette and this young woman did an amazing job of safely negotiating a series of intersections along Thomas Street in Bahama Village, talking madly on her phone, cycling one handed and barely ever having to put even one well turned ankle on the ground as she flowed smoothly along. I felt compelled to stop at the stop signs which allowed her to keep up with my cumbersome 28 mile-per-gallon eco-wrecker.I saw these people on the little pier at Simonton Beach and they put me in mind of youth, living on a boat, existing outside the mainstream. That kind of thing.Similarly with this dude photographed outside Harpoon Harry's. I discarded this picture for that essay but I just couldn't get his jaunty stride out of my mind.I made a U-turn to photograph this hack on the upper (south) end of Duval Street. This is why a sidecar will never work for me. Metered parking? Huh? Never say never. I would rather be seen in a hack than in something like this. Can you imagine parking this thing in a street barely wider than one of these tires? Oh and gas has popped over the three dollar-a-gallon mark this week even at my ultra cheap Shell Station on Ramrod Key.I saw this tag at Boondocks, speaking of Ramrod Key and it started me on this essay, thinking about the madness of driving a quarter million dollar car in the middle of an economic Depression and then putting a populist NASCAR tag on the back? Oh sure, just one of the guys! Florida is cutting the four million dollar Healthy Start program to balance the state budget this year. Let the little tykes and their improvident mothers get help somewhere else will be our attitude."There will always be poor people in the land. Therefore I command you to be openhanded toward your brothers and toward the poor and needy in your land." Deuteronomy 15:11

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

The Mouse That Squeaked

Originally posted 3/27/2008 I am reposting this essay today owing to a slight glitch in my ability to download pictures and access my account. As soon as my home Internet connection is restored by American Telephone and Telegraph normal service will resume here-by tomorrow I hope!

This sign at Mile Marker 53.5 marks the only entrance to Key Colony Beach:

It happened that when World War Two was finished reshaping the world people started to have time on their hands and money too and they wanted to spend some of that time in the sun. Lucky for them Phil Sadowski had a plan. He found an island, carved a bunch of canals and in September 1957, the month before I was born, the city of Key Colony Beach was incorporated. Yesterday these two Earth shattering events collided and I paid my second ever visit to the city that toils in the shadows of Marathon which is a much newer, and possibly less scenic incorporation all around Mile Marker 53. Key Colony Beach is the grand old man of cities in the Middle Keys:

Sadowski is memorialised in KCB, as the city likes to call itself, by the one and only road that projects south from Highway One- the Sadowski Causeway which carries a cheerful sign advising you that you've arrived so what's the hurry? I took the advice to heart, parked the Bonneville and in between taking a picture divested myself of all the protective gear that tends to alienate the motorcyclist from everyone else. I needn't have bothered. I made my grand entry to KCB on our fiftieth birthdays, near enough, by immediately pissing off a couple of power walkers, barely visible in the distance. Unbeknownst to me the yellow line means: DO NOT CROSS- no motorized vehicles. But that warning sign, among a plethora of others, only came later.

I multiplied my sin by stopping further along to photograph these curious constructions. They are breeze block huts, possibly 500 hundred square feet, facing the water with carports in back lining the eastern side of the causeway.

There are dozens of them, built I suspect to satisfy the needs of the less wealthy among Sadowski's post war snowbirds. I quite liked them as an early version of low income housing. I don't know what these place sell for, and I saw a couple up for grabs, but on the rest of the island the cheapest home I saw went for $800,000 in the internet listings. Right next to the low rent neighborhood is a marina and a few convenience type stores selling flip flops, sun tan lotion and possibly the devil's brew, and after that KCB is all residential all the time.

The city is bustling right now, with the city itself boasting that its year round population of 800 is boosted to about four thousand souls during the inclement season Up North. I can believe it, because it seemed like every single one of them was out jogging, hiking, cycling, walking, power walking, strolling and even driving the streets of this infernal city. If there is anywhere less conducive to momentarily parking a motorcycle to take a picture I have yet to find it:

And even though there are just a dozen streets everything is Very Organized which doesn't allow a nosey parker on even two wheels much room to pause and contemplate the frame:

I don't think the city actually encourages much driving within its limits, which may be a good thing. There are no parking spaces and almost no parking areas except for the few I found at the waterfront park. I paused at City Hall for just a moment, but needing neither a permit nor to pay a parking fine (yet) it was just time enough to snap a picture:

Which is my cue to point out that the city holds annual elections to choose city commissioners for two year terms on a rotating basis. The last election produced a landslide for the top vote getter who was endorsed by fully two hundred of his neighbors. The city has no debts, has an enviable record of relative harmony, no scandals and has fully six police officers (dispatched by Sheriff's dispatch in Marathon- I checked. You never know when you might need a job). It claims not to be a boring place to live offering bocce, tennis, 9-hole golf and a whole bunch of other stuff I can't really remember.Oh yes, fishing too. But not from the municipal pier where casting a line will net you a twenty five dollar fine. This is the only pier in Florida where fishing is expressly forbidden, so take a good look:No swimming allowed either, else the under toad will apparently eat you:And if you somehow got the mistaken idea that swimming off that magnificent sand beach under the palm trees would be refreshing, think again:And remember those six officers have but 1400 homes to patrol so they will be on you like flies on the proverbial if you dip a big toe in the azure waters of the Straits of Florida. Look don't touch. Which reminds me a bit of that old TV show The Prisoner.

Thats the shame of places like KCB. I have always had, as long as I can remember a nerdy attraction to places that barely seem to exist. As a kid I rode my motorcycles far and wide to the smallest geographic entities I could find, and in Europe there were a ton: Monaco, San Marino, Andorra, Lichtenstein, and bonus points for the truly obscure like Campione d'Italia in Switzerland and Llivia in southern France. You'd think a mouse that roared like Key Colony Beach would enjoy its status but it tries so hard to be dour under the tropical sun. And you can't be dour enough when you choose to live in something like this:There is a park after a fashion, but if I want to boil my brains out on the sunlit benches where do I leave the Bonneville? In the next jurisdiction? It's very passive aggressive. Home ownership in KCB does have its advantages, in that the city, unlike Monroe County, does allow short term rentals. Indeed short term is the theme for the Keys' own mouse that roars. The waterfront is obscured for the length of it's KCB mile by condos. Old fashioned 1950's concrete block structures:And newer designs with faux shutters and weird Mittel European porch lights blazing in the middle of the day to no visible effect:Not forgetting the neon glories beloved of our parents, back "in the day" as they say most annoyingly:I did discover an "extra" street within city limits, which was probably more fun than I should have allowed myself. Back at the end of the causeway I was returned brutally to the lives that the rest of us in the world outside the cozy confines of KCB have to deal with daily, in winter: a traffic jam turning out onto Highway One.The cars at the front of the line were so languid only about three got out on each green light which was making me crazy with boredom so, ever the rebel I took the right turn lane and found myself abruptly in the parking area of a Circle K convenience store. Indeed, and this it turns out is KCB's sole gas station, though as it faces Highway One a passer-by not tuned in to the vagaries of city planning would never guess. The city of Marathon uses the usual green street signs employed elsewhere in the county and in Key West. But KCB in an effort to distinguish itself uses blue street signs:And right around the corner I found Coral Way, in blue butting up to Clara Boulevard behind the Circle K. And I didn't even need to show id to escape back to the real world. As real as it gets in the Florida Keys, let's face it.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Unknown No Name

I am not really sure why I took my camera with me on this walk. I make it a habit to return from time to time to No Name Key and walk my favored walk on the island and I was pretty sure I was all photographed out here, for at least a while.In the end I decided to take the squeeze box just because you never know quite what you might see and perhaps I might find a picture or two to add, at random to my next collection of vignettes. Cheyenne in the mangroves, or trash discarded in a mud hole. Who was it, I wonder, who decided this was the right spot in which to discard some superannuated wheels?This is dry season at it's driest in the keys. Normally the wet mud has long since dried and acres and acres of mangroves have arisen out of the swamp and the walkable acreage has doubled on many of these small islands. This winter has, with it's incessant rain and cursed cold snaps, caused the mud to take extra long to dry out.At long last trails normally submerged or semi submerged have dried out enough to encourage an adventurous walker to take a side trail or two which was how Cheyenne and I ended up traipsing far off our normal well beaten, track. The camera was a welcome burden.I plunged off on a side trail at random, and tried another previously unnoticed side trail and found to my surprise that I had slipped through the looking glass and instead of the trail petering out it led me, as though by a nose ring, deeper and deeper into the furthest recesses of No Name Key.From the south shore, at low tide I could see the Highway One bridge that connects Big Pine Key to West Summerland Key, the road that leads to Bahia Honda State Park.The day was warm, a harbinger of summer, yet the breeze was still cool and the atmosphere was far from oppressive. As the sun broke through the haze the walk became a delightful exploration, my dog and I tramping and exploring so far from anywhere we could not, for once hear the remotest of engine sounds from land or water.Exploring the Lower Keys is not mountaineering, nor is it even the search for the perfect outcrop of rock from which to view valleys and rivers and woods that stretch to the horizon. The horizon here is nothing more than variations on a well worn theme: mud, mangrove and water. That I can get excited by the prospect of seeing more of the same, in endless variations, comes as something of a surprise to me and I am not always sure Cheyenne appreciates my discovery of the inconsequential, but she is a good sport.No Name Key is indelibly connected to the disastrous invasion of Cuba, known to us as the Bay of Pigs, for these were the forests where the invaders practiced their skills prior to the landing in Cuba. Then this was a truly remote place. Before 1938 No Name Key was the place where the four hour ferry ride from Lower Matecumbe landed and joined the Lower Keys to the mainland. After 1938 Highway One by passed this little island and pushed it essentially off the map. A good place to train unconstitutional guerrillas to invade a sovereign nation. There are no signs of their activities but Alpha 66's terrorism hangs invisible in the air over this island even today.It was inevitable though somewhat aggravating to find tracks in the dried mud. Not just foot or dog prints but bicycle tracks, no less!And a giant's elaborate causeway of heavy flat stones. It seems like a lot of work to go and search for bait fish.To my surprise we eventually connected with the main side trail once again, back where I knew where we were and the adventure was over an hour after it began.A pedestrian freeway back to the car, parked on the main boulevard a mile away. We marched back side by side.A motorcycle is a grand thing but a dog that puts up with pointless walks to nowhere is, sometimes, even better.