Saturday, August 7, 2010

Reynolds Street

The Casa Marina Hotel, nowadays part of the Waldorf Astoria chain (though they don't call it a chain which is probably a very gauche term).Henry Flagler increase his oil drilling fortune (Standard Oil) by coming up with the excellent idea of building resort palaces along Florida's sunny east coast and pushing his railway line from New York to meet them. He had found that a rail line with no destination wasn't attractive so when his east Coast Railway Extension (which never turned a profit) arrived in Key West passengers had the choice of staying at the Casa, as it is now universally known in Key West, or hopping the ferry to Havana for some prossies and gambling. And fresh tropical fruit; don't forget the pineapples as they are always listed in the literature as the real reason the connection to Havana was so important. Under age prostitution came later with Meyer Lansky and now the implosion of civil society in the Socialist Paradise. This is an actual, unstaged picture of my dog sniffing a fire hydrant.In a free market paradise where mention of toilets in polite society is cause for swooning the cliché of dogs sniffing hydrants is rampant. Yet in real life I never see it. Until now. I wanted to take a quick whiz on this but if he does win he will be removed to the safety and impotence of the US Senate instead of running for governor where he could wreak severe havoc on a State that has done quite nicely under moderate Republican rule.Rubio is a 38 year old son of Cuban immigrants whose idea of social tolerance is putting leftists like me into hard labor camps and then using us as front line sacrifices on a remake of the Bay of Pigs. Florida term limits Governors so Charlie Crist, the closeted gay married Republican moderate feels obliged to seek other employment though he has been doing a good job of not tipping into radicalism. I doubt he will win as an independent this Fall though he gets my vote over the fatuous Democrat Meeks, he of the Democrat Bubba System. Where was I? Oh yes, hurricane shutters. These people are clearly away and one hopes they haven't forgotten to lock the front door as their absence is rather obvious. Even to a dog.This house in it's own forest I find rather appealing. The wall screams "Bugger Off !" Just how I like it. The Casa Marina district is the wealthy neighborhood in Key West, located roughly between Higgs Beach and the Varela Street more or less. You'll know it when you are in it. This is the intersection of Reynolds and South looking north toward United Street. Turn left here at the light and the Southernmost (More Or Less) Point is a few blocks...south.Casa Marina deals, not exclusively but a great deal in large homes, expansive lots and many trees.Because this is Key West, paying millions for a vast spacious home on several lots gives you no guarantee that your neighbors will be likewise equipped. 1960s homes survive in their more modest, though no less expensive,proportions.However planting lots of fast growing banana "trees" provides all sorts of luscious cover.
This rock home is a bit of landmark.
More privacy walls. Around here No Trespassing signs are not as necessary. Walls speak louder than cheap plastic placards.The Spottswoods will be happy to take your deposit for this slice of paradise. Act quickly before prices plunge again! Mind you, when prices plunge from several millions to a few millions it's not like most of us notice too much.My home has dropped from better than half a million to a recent appraisal of $330,000 though I doubt Wells Fargo could find a buyer at that price if I decided to seek my fortune elsewhere. An empty lot on my street (30 miles from Casa Marina) sold for $136,000 last month so there are still fools ready to be parted from their money. Welcome to the club I say, as the owner of home that will never see a half million dollar price tag on it again.

Friday, August 6, 2010

Summer Street Scenes

Some people say summer time is too hot in Key West. From my recent experiences I can only say the plains Up North are absolute furnaces this time of year and my hat is off to anyone who can survive the dry heat, the hair dryer winds and absence of cooling sea breezes.On the other hand far be it from me to encourage people who migrate north in summer to change their habits one jot. Friends find bargains in vacation accommodations and they get to discover why I use a tinny little pocket camera to take my pictures of Key West, instead of their immense and laborious SLR cameras. I used to use a single lense reflex with film but modern digital is lovely. Truman Waterfront is up for renewal and renovation but a lot of people find it works just fine as it is. Walking a dog renders no one a profit, unfortunately, for if it did the 34 acres deeded to the city by the Navy might stay as they are.The Navy warehouse was glowing in the sunset on the waterfront. A short walk from here hundreds were gathered to buy and sell and juggle and entertain in the name of commerce as the sun went down.It happened I was meeting a friend and Cheyenne needed a walk. I took my pocket camera, the only camera I owned. A second floor cat on Southard (Suth-'ard) Street. One imagines this property is marked-to-bullshit to make sure the bank's assets look formidable, even if they aren't real. Imagine the world we live in where these kinds of signs are now being mass produced to stick in buildings all across America. Home of the brave indeed.A weird world indeed where a sign inside a window says "No Trespassing." Thus dude below looked as though he wanted to become one with the artifacts inside the plate glass window. Despite the lack of signage he held back from trespassing.On our travels people have told us in various towns that scooters "are really big right now." Not like Key West, where scooters are everywhere and in daily use. I still can't identify a real heron when I see one.
Or an ibis. Or the differences between them. I know a travesty when I see one though and covering up the old "Blue Lagoon" sign to make way for a name change at the old motel on North Roosevelt is one such. The Blue Lagoon today:And the Blue Lagoon yesterday:One is ugly the other is kitsch. And having a chimney in Key West was merely eccentric until climate change brought us wintry weather...in winter.Nine months into her new ownership Cheyenne has lost none of her desire to make up for lost time by chasing down every last smell on the streets.Bahama Shutters on Conch Cottage.
A Honda 400 twin. Alive and well and old, because these machines were built around 1980. And because it is a CMT, t = tachometer. The CMA model was automatic, an innovation Honda has toyed with for years and now offers on it's flagship VFR1200.I also noticed the current owner is following a fad from my youth of making a simple and inexpensive "café racer" out of a perfectly nice motorcycle. Instead of buying clip ons he just turned the standard bars upside down to decrease maneuverability and increase the cool factor.
Years ago the city commission voted (with support from Commissioners who had businesses downtown and forgot to recuse themselves) to outlaw panhandling in a portion of the Duval Street corridor. Luckily panhandlers aren't organized or wealthy enough to mount a spirited legal defense of the First Amendment so the law stands and these signs forced me to ask myself if I hadn't noticed them before or if they are an addition to the plethora of "No This" and "No That" signs littering Old Town.
No handshaking either.
I cannot imagine the patience it takes to squeeze goop all day into the gaps in the siding. Someone has to do it, I suppose.
This sign at Mile Marker 9 has been up for a while. D'you suppose Kendra might mosey on over and pick up her movie sometime soon?
And someone needs to let Ocean Key House know their expensive and ugly billboard got an update with a private message.Not actually that private when you consider it sits alongside Highway One buggering up the view of the horizon as nature intended it. Billboards are their own form of poison, though perhaps not as pointed as that of Haggerty's former "friends." I hope whatever he did was more interesting than the usual sex, lies and faithlessness of the unimaginative.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Geiger Key Marina

Chuck and I had been exchanging e-mails for a while after we met on the street in front if his house a while ago. We arranged to meet at Geiger Key Marina which suited me very well as I hadn't been there for a while, a long while.

We left Cheyenne at home after a very long walk. I figured she was better off napping than sitting out in the August heat, and Chuck noticed...and expressed disappointment. I don't blame him, she is a total babe.


It's a hopping place Geiger Key in the same vein as Hogfish on Stock Island which isn't surprising as it's owned by the same man. To get to Geiger Key turn south at the Circle Key/Shell on Big Coppitt (Mile Marker Ten) and wait for the yellow sign to appear. It's a long straight ride south at 30 miles per hour from Highway One.


I tripped over this Cuban chug decorating the parking lot. It's worth a look to see how far people will go to escape from Cuba. A wooden frame, polystyrene flotation panels and a hull covered in a plastic tarp. Very ingenious but what a craft to use to cross 90 miles of Gulf Stream and it's unpredictable conditions. Many don't make it and disappear and no one is any the wiser. Sometimes their chugs wash ashore empty and leave us to assume the worst.

We joined Chuck and Pauline dockside with a gorgeous view. We were under close observation. I'm guessing they are used to soft hearted tourists yielding to their charms.

My grilled mahi mahi on a fresh crisp salad was perfect and the conversation was intense enough I forgot to photograph it. I did ask Lindsay for a smile though and she obliged. Chuck made a comment about old age and pity but I decided to draw a veil across that.

It was an entirely splendid afternoon until these two Cuban refugees showed up to spoil the fun. As I watched them paddling in toward the marina I noted, out loud how odd is this new fad of paddling a surf board. I thought nothing more of it as we sipped our tea and enjoyed the afternoon peace. One big thing about this place is the blessed absence of canned outdoor tinny muzak.

As the Cuban couple paddled into the basin in front of the restaurant I had my attention elsewhere. Hey, they said, he's waving at you! Well bugger, how was I supposed to know it was Scott out paddling around? I walked over and Scott and Julie explained to me exactly how deluded I am to imagine that paddling a surf board is a complicated or difficult way to go. Julie explained that the view is much improved over that from the low seated position in a kayak, the board is more maneuverable and paddling is easier as you can put your lower body to work. She also insists the board is more stable than a kayak.So now I'm going to have to rent one I guess. And learn to keep my unfounded prejudices to myself.

Barbecue is on the menu after 4pm Sundays and I can't imagine standing over the pit in this heat. Never mind adding the hot sauce.

A Rick Worth piece of mobile art.
And time to say goodbye.



Next time another dockside lunch, possib ly Stock Island.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Florida Mountains

For this essay of mostly photos I turned to my favorite photographer, a transplanted Californian who has made his name standing in the muck of the Everglades with a huge old fashioned camera on a tripod. The results are worth it.Butcher came to Key West not so long ago and I couldn't be there so my wife did me proud. My camera is not the old fashioned tripod mounted machine,obviously. I don't get $38,000 for my mural pictures either. It is no surprise that he is compared to Ansel Adams but what I prefer about Butcher's pictures is that for some reason they exude more warmth than the famous Adams pictures of the West. Perhaps it is the subject matter, or Butcher's technique but I like his photos far more.I started thinking about Butcher one morning when i was walking Cheyenne and found myself taking pictures with no essay subject in mind.
Dawn is a great time on my street in the summer. The exercise obsessed snowbirds are Up North and year round residents are resting from their daily labors.
My home silhouetted by the sun "coming up like thunder..." (Kipling, Mandalay)
Butcher coined the term "Florida mountains" for Sunshine State clouds.
Mourning doves are doing well on our street.
Salt ponds. Rainwater fills these mineral mud flats in summer and they come alive with crabs and birds hunting them.
Cheyenne is busy. She always finds things to sniff.
She is not the only creature on the prowl:
Here come people:
A one lane street is a test of driver's manners. Imagine how often they fail the test.