Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Higgs Break

Drought has Florida in it's grip. The wildlife pond at Higgs Beach is as dry as a bone as a result, and i decided to take advantage to walk across the floor of the pond.Cheyenne was off enjoying the shade and she indicated the smells outside the dried up pond were much more interesting.I've always enjoyed the sculpture on the post in the middle of the pond but yesterday I got a chance to see it up close and keep my feet dry at the same time. Higgs beach is well known as hang out for all sports including the residentially challenged especially in winter.The floor of the normally wet pond had a healthy cover of greenery for Cheyenne and I to cross. I used to enjoy prolonged droughts in California because the rain came in the cold season and added to the misery of winter. Rain in Florida usually comes in summer but winter rains, as modest as they are, help to keep the state green. Not this year.
Higgs Beach runs alongside the southern end of White Street, a main road for cyclists heading to and from the beach and the White Street Pier. It's also the place where funky campers tend to congregate.
Cheyenne was having fun poking around and sniffing this and that.
Not everyone stays in hotels for Spring Break. This Florida tagged car had bedrolls on the hood.
There are two schools of thought in Key west about birds on the streets. Some like the chickens and roosters despite their noise and aggressive scraping in the dirt. The argument goes they kill noxious insects. I prefer the local birds, the natives, like the ibis that also kill noxious insects but do it with a quiet dignity the invasive chickens completely lack.
I am quite fond of the spacious dog park built (with money collected from the public) on the corner of Higgs. Cheyenne is not as keen, preferring to wander on her own in the rest of the park. Suits me.We sat in the shade while I pondered the meaning of "Blue Dog Park." From Higgs we took the car and headed to the other beach at Smathers. Key West has enjoyed a busy winter tourist trade. I'm told the only Florida hotels that have had a smash hit winter are those in the Keys. Which is good of course but explains the crowding and the slow waddling traffic on the Overseas Highway. And now Spring Break has started, with the city filling up with rowdy youngsters.
Spring Break is turning into the kind of orgy we used to have every Spring. The past few years things have been much quieter but this year the Police Communications center has been insanely busy every night. I am coming home exhausted in the morning sleeping like a dead man as soon as my head hits the pillow. Here's a taste of what will be in town for the next several weeks.I will be obliged to bring you more pictures like this or face the wrath and dripping sarcasm of the Scribe of Amish Country and his sodding BMW. I am a slave to Jack riepe's taste buds in photography- Twisted Roads for Twisted Minds.
This is not a good time to be speeding in Key West. It is a good time to take it easy and watch the scenery shimmer by.I am in love with my own blonde bimbo.
Cheyenne is all a man needs when he's out looking for a young bit of fluff.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Varela Street

I was in town at about that time of day, setting sun, glowing homes under a blue sky.Father Felix Varela was born in Cuba in 1788 and moved to St Augustine, also part of the Spanish Empire where he studied to become a priest, and at the age of 23 was ordained back in Havana.
Father Varela's support for human rights set him at odds with the Spanish monarchy and he went into exile to New York in 1823. He ministered to immigrants and the poor in new York for 30 years before returning to St Augustine and dying there in 1853. There is now a move afoot to have him made a saint, in the meantime he gets a street named after him in Key West... It's a typical Key West street, pretty especially in the evening sunlight.
I have been trying to grow my own bougainvillea, a plant that refused to grow for me when I lived in coastal California. We had a spell of heavy rain after I potted the plant and it apparently drowned. I have been hoping to see signs of life in the little brown twigs in my pot, but I think it has gone to it's reward. Everyone else seems to have difficulty controlling the size of their bushes.In fact, everywhere I look there are signs of flourishing bougainvillea.In the next picture I was looking at the varied roof lines and there in the bottom corner is a spray of red, as though mocking me.Another down here:A cyclist came whizzing through enjoying his ride and distracting me for a moment. And there was the Bonneville, about to be devoured by the bougainvillea monster.A quiet Old Town street, looking toward the site of what will likely be the next City Hall, currently Glynn Archer school.
There has been a prolonged spell without rain across much of Florida but in Key West greenery keeps on growing.
And where there are no plants there are instead representations of plants.
Just another typical street in Old Town indeed.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Old Farting The Keys

Chuck is proud of his youthful demeanor so in his case the "old fart" refers to his motorcycle a 25 year old Sportster, bought for a song, restored, and running perfectly.In my case I am the old fart, while my motorcycle is a much more modern machine than the original Bonneville that might have been built around the time Chuck's 1985 Harley Davidson came off the production line. Chuck notes with pride that his machine is the last of the breed with cast iron cyclinders, a material that is old fashioned and out of date but that has properties that make it useful for internal combustion- heat dissipation and self lubrication. Nowadays we see motorcycles built of exotic unobtanium, cooled with liquids, operated by electrons and impossible to comprehend. To revel in the old is to be, by definition, an old fart.We met at my place last Friday and cruised over to No Name Pub for food and conversation. As one does, and we weren't alone.Chuck wanted a slice or three of No Name's famed pizza, so, being men we ordered too much and devoured hot greasy pastry and cheese and crispy slices of salted meat products. We were ashamed of our greed and revelled in it. Chuck made up for it by drinking tap water, I had a Yuengling draft to start and strong iced tea to chase the alcohol away before we ended our long leisurely meal and left behind a picked over plate.
It was going to be one more lovely day in the Lower Keys for the winter visitors bleached by gray skies who were out to enjoy it and work on their tans. We are coming up on Bike Week at Daytona the annual orgy of Harley Davidsons on the beach Up North so this past week saw a disproportionately high number of motorcycles rented or trailered to Florida and ridden to Key West- the ride of a lifetime on the Overseas Highway.Chuck and I were planning a slightly more modest undertaking on our unsuitably small and simple machines. We were riding to Marathon to buy a motorcycle.We had a slight problem here as we both like to ride alone and Chuck very decently agreed to take the lead to start and thus set the pace, something I hate to do. I popped my squeezbox out of my jacket pocket and started shooting off pictures as we rolled south on Wilder Road back to Highway One.Temperatures were in the low 80's and our motorcycles, though 22 years apart in age are very similar in performance. Chuck has four speeds to my five, neither bike has a tachometer but both get around 42 miles per gallon and cruise happily between 60 and 80 miles per hour.It was a matter of minutes to find ourselves crossing the turquoise waters on a windy afternoon in bright sunshine.The weather forecast called for crisp sun and strong winds up to thirty miles an hour and conditions delivered. I had written to Chuck wondering he wanted a rain check to postpone till calmer weather. This is the new sensitive me trying to be aware of the fear that imbues many people who ride motorcycles. They seem to live with a fear of wind, which personally doesn't bother me much. Chuck wrote an indignant reply to the effect that anything less than 50 miles per hour isn't worth worrying about. We had 25 gusting 30 so we were in excellent shape. The waters were nicely frothed by the wind.I saw these campers on the spoil island south of the Seven Mile Bridge and figured they were having quite the adventure. We were amusing ourselves quite nicely on the bridges admiring the views......avoiding getting blown around......blatting along at a steady 60 miles per hour into the headwinds. Chuck has no windshield, which is fine for him. Me? I'm a wuss and enjoy my Parabellum, the top of which can just be seen, here below:At the start of the weekend one usually sees much heavier traffic heading south and in fact last Friday afternoon we had plenty of oncoming vehicles.Then we arrived in Marathon, the wide spot in the Overseas Highway with a 45 mile per hour speed limit and two lanes in each direction.I pulled past Chuck and risking everything twisted in my seat and snapped a picture. He took it in good part making only a small remark about "how many pictures" I took.That early Harley has several features I like. The riding position is what is known as standard, not cruiser style with the feet properly under the body, which gives better control over the machine. The Harley is also a very basic motorcycle, chain drive, discs fore and aft and reliable electric starting. However it all comes together nicely with no superflouous body work , no electronics no nothing that detracts or adds to the fundamental pleasure of the ride. Chuck is quick to point out this is his first ever Harley but he really likes it, and I can see why.It was a good day on the road.From the sublime we took a turn to a different kind of ride. Chuck had been talking about buying and restoring another machine and as he is an engineer by vocation and inclination he enjoys finding a bargain, usually not running, and then with a little restoration work (or a lot) the bike comes back to life. Chuck enjoys owning and riding it and sells it on for a little more than he spent. Me? I love the idea of doing all that but I am the kind of rider who buys as new as possible, rides the shit out of the machine and sells it (to Chuck? for restoration..!) to buy another and start the cycle again. I'm just delighted with my Bonneville which is riding better and better as the miles roll by and. I'm at 49,000 so far. In Marathon we met the owner of the machine in question- not the 17,000 mile Kawasaki Voyager he wheeled out first.
I'd never previously seen air vents on a motorcycle but this thing has them. The owner lamented the bike doesn't have reverse but he bought it when the Suzuki GS1000 he's selling crapped out on him and the Suzuki is a basic motorcycle indeed. It blew a head gasket two weeks after he brought it down from Wisconsin (by trailer) to ride in the Keys. The poor thing has sat neglected for three years in the garage.I am not a fan of the cruiser style from the 1980's but the standard GS was a thing of beauty and a ride to be envied with a bullet proof motor and decent chassis and a reputation for reliability second to none. This sad thing was discarded when the owner's mechanic said it wasn't worth repairing, which I think is crazy. Who cares what the bike is worth after spending five hundred bucks to fix it, if it rides properly. I guess the broken gasket was an excuse to get a better (read bigger) bike. The story got odder though. Clearly the bike is doing no one any good stuck in the garage but the value of this lump of forgotten metal is hundreds more to one of the men in the picture below than it is to the other. Chuck was worried about engine damage, the owner was worried about dust and rust so he polished the wreck.
The battery was flat as were the cracked old tires and nothing much could be gleaned from simply looking. Chuck pondered the risk of broken internals while I wondered what it would be like to ride a Voyager with a radio and cruise control and air ducts in the fairing. Then we left, mission accomplished, and the overpriced Suzuki was shuffled back to the inner darkness to remain worth nothing to anyone. We stopped nearby for gas where we received a message from the restoration gods. We came across an elderly Buell and a lovely old Honda 500 Four ridden by one of our contemporaries. They appeared to be a father and son, down from Up North with a stable of motorcycles in Fort Lauderdale, including a Russian Urinal sidecar outfit. The Honda, a barn find was purchased for a mere one hundred dollars, hundreds less than the asking price of the GS1000 we had just looked at and I think that announcement sealed the fate of the distressed Suzuki.As we talked across the gas station pumps the son, if that is what he was, put his helmet on and I was fascinated, like a parakeet with a mirror, by the camera bolted on his head. I am sure my eyes followed it back and forth as he talked. I could only bring myself to photograph the accessory as he rode away, thinking it rude to point and click in his face. I guess it's better than my method of holding my camera in my hand but it sure looked more unusual than a pair of pink Crocs, for example.We put some almost-four-dollar-a-gallon gas in our tanks, and prepared to ride home. "The good bit" as Chuck put it, down wind pushed by the still honking south east breeze. He had fifty miles to go to get home I had about half that. On the other hand I had to get to work at 6pm...The road was of course lovely as we went back the way we came over the Seven Mile Bridge.Still sunny, still windy and this time with me in the lead setting the pace. We got on the Seven Mile Bridge and I opened it up to pass a dawdling car. I startled Chuck for a minute but he was game and we passed a few more before settling into an empty stretch of road. The view as always is a mixture of little lumps of land, turquoise waters, and every now and again a familiar human made landmark. Like the old Bahia Honda Bridge.
And approaching Big Pine Key once more the cormorants were as usual making themselves comfortable on the old bridge between Big Pine and West Summerland Keys.We parted ways in Big Pine as I had a chore to do, to check on the availability of tires for my car, which was of no interest to Chuck so he went off after promising to do this again some time. While I was talking to Donnie at Monroe Tire I noticed this elderly Yamaha in the perfect position to attract Chuck... just as well he didn't follow me over there.
Later Chuck sent me some pictures of the machines we had talked about at lunch. Including a photo of his old Moto Guzzi Eldorado a motorcycle I have long lusted after and was seriously envious that he had owned one. I couldn't download his picture for some reason so I got this one from the Internet. It looks lovely to me.Of course I'd like mine not only running but restored and ready for use as a hardcore daily rider. And Chuck to keep it running for me. I ride when it's windy or rainy but I am a wuss when it comes to wrenching.